cletus

you'd be supprised how many haters there are out there for it.

Click here for Haters

pale gamer nerds who think they are clever cause they found some spelling mistakes.

good on you for organising something positive.

http://lvvta.org.nz/stdSeatAnchorage.pdf

go down to 2.9

this has requirements for the mounting plates.

www.lvvta.org.nz

has most of the rules certifiers follow, available at the top of the first page under `documents`

so according to the rebuilders they can get about 112Kw at the wheels out of it

"about 112Kw" is quite precise

also that much power out of an old nail of an engine for $730 sounds too good to be true.

i smell bullshit. be careful you dont get ripped

helpful for you? widened elderly datsun wheels.

http://forums.minitruckin.co.nz/viewtop ... =18&t=2966

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 060273.htm

i found a hilux diff head in some long grass when i was taking my dog for a piss. it wasnt even broken or damaged either

So if a positive ground car bumped into a negative ground car, would there be dzzzztttd when the bumpers touched??

That said to confuse you further, a 4V Cleveland head is considered too big for street use due to insufficient velocity (at least according to all the experts out there). So why is it then that many Mitsi 4V ports are bigger per cylinder capacity and so velocity is less. The only reasonable answer is that all the experts are well and truely wrong

Steve

the mitsi can probably get away with a bigger port because the fuel is squirted directly at the valve from the injector rather than having to get dragged out of a holley and make its way down the manifold and port. the older engine needs velocity to keep the fuel atomised properly

205/70/14 balloons.

you could work it out by measuring how much gap you have now between the spring plate and the ground, minus how high the traction bar is. also check how the spring sits, if the front spring eye is lower than the spring plate then the front of the traction bar will be even closer to hitting the ground.

you might be better off with a link bar off the top of the diff housing to the inside of the chassis rail, gt falcons had that, possibly some escorts or capris as well.

or a 2 inch block and reset springs.

i had some of those bars on a car with 2 inch blocks once, they were a pain in the asshole due to being too low/got stuck on speedbumps etc.

so with 75mm blocks would be worse, depending on what size tyre you are using

pg hydraulics in east tamaki. not cheap but do a proper job.

the biggest problem is, if the law gets abused/misused by police it becomes an issue....i know a guy who got his valiant impounded for loss of traction. he had been at a legal burnout comp and fried his trans. put a new box in and was road testing it, some spilt trans fluid was burning/smoking on the exhaust. cop pulled him over because of the smoke, saw the rubber up the rear guards and impounded it.

in my opinion, the laws that were already there are enough, its just that cops probably have better things to do than spend all friday and saturday night enforcing the current law, so people get the idea that its not working the way it is. the reaction to that is to make the punishment harsher.

Did anybody else see the thing on close up last night, where some bloke got knocked off his pushbike and killed by a drunk 70 year old woman. so far she has lost her license for 28 days (and has got it back and can drive again). How fucked up is that?!?

but if you do 3 skids in 4 years, thats it....off to the crusher

4 link or leafs.....ladder bars/2 link is a waste of time in a road car. turns the rear axle into a giant swing arm, the only side to side movement it has is the flex in the bushes.

i busted 7 in my mark twice cortina and 2 in my esky van

the local wrecker ran out of escort diffs because of me

the spider gears are the weak link they dont like axle tramp

i broke one doing a burnout on a pile of dead geese to see if it would smell like roast chicken

or a flowmaster they are poos. unless you like the exhaust through a tin shed sound.

i put a 50 series flowmaster on my last project, thats meant to be their quiet one, it was cool at max revs but droney and horrible everywhere else, split into 2 pipes and put 2 lukey syle muffs in and it was lovely. chase auto parts in penrose have a large range of mufflers at good prices.

also it went better, when i pulled the flowaster off the paint was burnt off where the angled baffles are inside it, from all the gases having a fight to get out

if the engine is larger than was fitted by the factory it needs cert.

doesnt matter if the same model had a bigger engine fitted....quite often the higher powered versions had better brakes to cope with it.... eg a 4 cyl commodore had tiny brakes compared to a v8 one

have seen a couple of rotary engined veehicles with carb secondarys modified to open mechanically, thus giving the illusion of more power due to the fact there is a big flat spot and then surge. = wanky.

the reason a holley carb with mechanical secondaries is known as a double pumper is because it has two accelerator pumps to stop the lean condition when the second throttles are opened

yea was more about having enough advance off boost to run properly and not have to have a locked dizzy....... rather than randomly pulling timing out with no thought involved

was thinking the other day of similar ideas ( non computer conrolled turbo shenanigans) of using wastegate actuator to retard timing under boost- like a vacuum advance but in reverse

turbo can be an issue for suck thru turbo as they usually arent designed to have vacuum on the compressor side, may require fandangled seal to avoid clouds of smokes

may be easier to use small holley 2 barrel? easy to get parts, theres plenty of blown v8s making good power with 4 barrel holleys and you can get bits to suit blowthru application. they dont have boxes around carb either usually a hat on top.

im sure the 2010 wrx has a blow thru carb set up. or nah

got some new wheels thanks Jason (lowrota)

205 70 14 on the back and 195 60 14 on the front for some bogan rake

battery tray was all rusty so moved the battery to the boot, and with the v8 engine offset as per factory makes for a nice big space for a turbo to live in

i had a drama with a 1300 sump on a 1600 years ago

i think i had to make dents in it to clear conrod bolts got it in and running and still made knocking noises. eventually i found the 1300 oil pickup tube was being whacked by the conrod bolts

Inspect your fuel filteration device. Probably full o shyte thereby reducing the large amount of fuel flow a falcon needs to move itself anywhere

another thing, check bleeders are at the top of the calipers?? ie calipers on correct side.

what a lovely automobile, good to see effort made making it tidy

have you fixed brake sponge ness yet

things to check that i have found causes same issues

bung old brake hoses going like balloons (even new faulty ones)

new pads on un machined rotors flexing

siezed caliper slides

new brake shoes with wrong radius on them for the drums

brakes adjusted wrong eg cable cranked up instead of adjustment at wheel

put clamps on all brake hoses and see if it then has a firm pedal. releasing each clamp will give you clues on where the problem is

What about a pump off first gen subaroo legacy? they have a water- air intercooler with a pump/radiator etc