cletus

there are comp ratio calculators in the internetz here is one

http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/compstaticcalc.html

if you know the cc of the dish in the piston and the other relevant info you can figure it out on there

i also have a query. i have read the verm vern whatever it is . in regaurds to : ... double swaybars . according to it it is ok to have two swaybars as long and you dont chaing mounts and it does not fould on anything . no welding or redrilling is done etc . so my swaybar is sweet?.

i have also fitted a much larger diff (r160 up to r200) . the rules says its ok as long as it uses the same mounting points and nothing is modified. is this also correct?

yes if its all bolt on parts you should be fine

In your professional opinion will i better off using individual blocks (that won't require welding) for the gearbox xmember and also the rear xmember? I'm thinking it may be an easier process than proving the quality of the welding if i were to make box type subframes as i described above.

Cheers for your help.

Thats the sort of thing you will want to discuss with the certifier you plan on using, if the 3 fixing points on each side are far enough apart then that should be fine the main thing i would be thinking about would be any extra leverage on the mounting points, because of the braking force applied by the radius rods....without seeing it is hard to make that call.

the other thing to consider is the steering shaft, you will need a longer one.... cant be extended by cutting and welding, needs to be a new one piece shaft or a factory longer one out of a suitable donor car. the rules for this arent available online, its in the hobby car manual

migth jsut be worthwhile doing the 'proper' conversion while it's easy to access though, huh?

yep might save you some drama later on

i'm running all power steer gear removed on my 205. the only thing anyone does more than blanking off the holes and removing the assist ram (it's a super archaic system that only makes a difference at low rpm and pparking situations for some reason) is to sometimes fit a pinion housing from a non p-a-s rack. they never alter teh pinion itself nor is it a two piece type like most others. do I need to prove this or do I need to change the little cover? once that's done, there's nothing different between pas and non pas racks aside from the ratio of pinion to rack gearing

where is the valve that operates the power assist ram?

I have a bit of a collection of questions, may not be your area if expertise (and i do plan on talking to a local cert guy prior to kicking any of the big stuff off)

I plan to lift my Brumby 3" is there any specific information/standards as to what is acceptable in terms of material and construction, and size of lift blocks?

So far it is my intention to lift the body off the front crossmember using 75x50 RHS with 5mm wall, will reuse the OE studs and nuts, and new equivalant size/grade bolts and nuts to attach the crossmember to the lift block

The gearbox mounts to a 2nd crossmember which is also the radius rod mount, this crossmember mounts to the body at 3 points each side, all on differing levels, I plan to space this only 2" either with 3 seperate solid steel blocks using longer bolts of equivalant grade to OE, or by making a box section that matches the contour of the floor and crossmember with crush tubes at the bolt points, this would obviously involve a lot more fabrication, but to my mind it will potentially deal with shear loading better.

The rear suspension is a torsion bar setup, that mounts to the body at 2 points either side, these i will treat the same as the gearbox crossmember mounts, either seperate solid blocks and longer bolts, or with a boxed sub assembly.

I'm also swapping the factory 4 speed for a 5 speed (that bolts in) the 5 speed comes with a 2 peice driveshaft, which as i understand will need a hoop within 150mm of the gearbox UJ and the centre bearing UJ.

The rest of the build is fairly straightforward, engine swap with adaptor plate and redrilled flywheel, taller tyres.

Does any of this ring any alarm bells? There are obviously braking repercussions to fitting taller tyres, metallic pads and good new parts should provide sufficient stopping power.

Cheers, Dan

sounds good. bit hard to tell without seeing it and i cant remember what a brumby looks like underneath, but subaru outbacks and foresters are raised up like how you have described from factory, ie. spacers between x member and body

where is the rack mounted to, on the x member?

Are you going to space the front struts down the same amount?

I too have a question...

Say I had my vehicle lowered. I take it in to get certed and it passes. A measurement is recorded from centre of hub to top of guard and stamped on the plate.

My question is, if I had (for arguments sake) 18" wheels on at the time of cert (which also gets stamped on the plate) and the vehicle was above 100mm, what happens if I decide to go to 13" wheels that brings the car lower then 100mm?

Basically a re-cert for the wheels?

Technically speaking you need to re-cert the vehicle for a change in wheel sizes. Certifier needs to assess that change in wheel size will not have detrimental effect on handling, braking or clearance to body or suspension components. Some certifiers will do these checks for a reduced charge for wheel change only, plus the cost of a Cert Plate Reprint.

It is also possible to have a vehicle certified for more than one wheel size, road wheels & drag wheels for example. That would need discussing with your certifier of choice

correct.

the 100mm rule goes out the window anyway if it is certed for being lowered and the measurements match the plate

I have a question - when do flares/spoilers etc need certing?

For example, hypothetically if I was to do this to my car:

??

flares like that on thier own wouldnt need a cert, but the mods needed to fill them out and get it to look right probably would, ie wheel spacers, proper suspension, cut out original guards etc. and then the flares would be on the cert anyway

What are the legalities regarding deleting power steering? Can I just remove all the hoses and pump etc, and run a loop of hose betwen the two ports on the power rack?

need to fit a non power steer equivalent or have rack modified by reputable place to be non power steer- reason being there is a little `torsion bar' inside a power rack that operates the power assist valve- removing the pump ect causes stress on the torsion bar and eventually it can break

I'm doing is pulling the back seat out anyway and converting to USDM 2-seater interior

had a llok in the wof bible, its in the table of modifications that dont require certification= removing seats and belts. Unless for some strange reason the entry virm is different to in-service virm then you should be able to do that.

yep i know Dave from a while back, when he worked at autostop

Ill see what i can find out for you tomorrow, i cant see why you wouldnt be able to remove the seat and register it as a 2 seater.

if i were to get a car complied i would use VINZ mt wellington, ask for a man called Glynn Jones, or Western Compliance in kelston. they are good guys to deal with. C+P motors in grey lynn are also good if you want something around that area. VTNZ and VINZ supply inspectors to compliace places so sometimes they get shifted around, abc comp seems to have a different inspector everytime i go in there. I cant do compliance (registration), just the LVV cert if the car is modified.

ive got a magazine which mentions a v8 soarer front x member bolting into a supra, then you could use all factory bits if you had a soarer sump. was that the sump you couldnt find?

turbo manual 1uz in a supra would be splendid.

Cletus, I'm just wondering about legalities of certifying adjustable coilover suspension. Does it have to be able to go through its full range of motion and the car still be drivable at any height, because I've heard that the certifier will wind it down and if the vehicle isn't operable at this setting, it will not pass the cert.

Or, can the vehicle just be certified for the lowest setting that it can be driven safely at?

car will be certed at a safe height- eg springs to be captive, have enough travel, no tyre rub etc. the +-5% is more to allow for susp being loaded or settling a bit- i personally dont think its a good idea, as people get the idea its ok to lower the car more after the cert, many cars are borderline and lowering another 10-15mm often results in the spring becoming uncaptive or tyres rubbing etc.

it says in the rules that the car must be safe to drive with the shocks at the fully firm setting- maybe this is where what you heard comes from with a bit of chinese whispers added. ive never heard of a certifier doing that except in the case of air bag systems- the car must be driveable if all the air gets out

yep ABS can be removed and certed

all abs bits have to be removed as said above

what sort of car is it? if you are changing brakes, that will need cert anyway but if its all bolt on factory stuff you might get away with it for a while

Oh and when i was driving it everyday, sometimes when i turn the key it nothing would happen, second turn it would start fine. This rarely happened though.

Any ideas??

a common problem with toyota starters is the contacts in the starter get worn and starter plays up, tis a piece of cake to fix.

a car that complies with the 95db deal isnt really that loud...... it is very difficult to get a car with a modified exhaust down to 90 or less

i think a big part of it is there are a lot of cars still getting around way louder than 95db so all the complaining types get the idea its not working and therefore everything must be 90

plus a lot of it comes down to how the car is driven......any car is a bit loud at full throttle/load/rev limiter/v-tec yo

so I'm frustrated and want some advice.

trying to disassemble the oil pump on the 4G93 to de-coke it, the bolts are supposed to be torqued to 10NM but after 270,000kms they seem pretty stuck. they are a plus-head countersunk bolt and i'm not keen on mincing the bolt head if i can avoid it, theres no nut they just fasten into the oil pump. whos got the best pro-tips?

do i reaaaaalllly have to drill and eziout these tings? would heating/cooling help?

get a taper punch ground to a sharp point, one whack with a hammer on the outer edge between the "+" straight down to make a little "crater" then you should be able to use the punch and hammer on an angle to turn it. hard to describe without sounding retarded but it works well

www.bandedsteels.com

found that this morning plenty of pics. now want wide steelies for my commonwhore wagon

xr6 turbo

2/1jz

sohc 4.0 falc

2.0 where 4.1 used to live = fail

you need something with a bit of torque to get an old lump like a falcon moving. a rb or sr may make more power overall than an old taxi 4.1, but it would be horrible to drive- you would have to give it death to get some boost happening/get the ute moving

how fast you wanna go? what are you going to use it for?

Even just buy an old scooter and fit a pair of wide as go kart wheels on the back

i thought that would be cool on that gyro thing you have- go kart wheels and wet tyres for maximum lean

i had a nifty 50 i lowered years ago took the springs out and replaced with steel bar, it was good until went round a roundabout and the frame hit the ground, slid out and i banged my head on the road.

when the certifier does the loaded- condition test it is supposed to be "moderate" acceleration from 70-100 kph, in the highest gear. so its not full load/big rpm like a power run on a dyno. i usually take the owner with me on a road test so they can see how the car is being driven.....

awesome. cheap too. would be interesting to see what it rides like they look funny going round a corner....

sump off

crank out

bit of wood and XXL hammer