cletus

its only a guide, i just got certed for 15 x 9 with 205/50 on them no worries.

it says on the front of the infosheet that if the certifier is presented with a tyre/wheel combo outside what this says then manufacturers specs must be followed, so either your tyre is approved by the manufacturer for that size rim, or the certifier ignored/is unaware of the rules. its not just a 'guide'.

cool little bikes. when i was at school there was one of the local larrikins had one with a 10hp? briggs used to come into the workshop i worked at on saturdays, smoke out the shop and hoon off again before the boss figured out what was happening....burnout terrorist haha

Page for 10inch , 12inch, 13inch , 14inch Diameter Wheels

Page for 15inch & 16inch Diameter Wheels

Page for 17inch & 18inch Diameter Wheels

Page for 19inch, 20inch & 21inch Diameter Wheels

theres the relevant pages, theres bigger sizes but i dont think anyone on here is into donks

I hope the news is a bit better / never is.

I hope it's still a "Guide" only and manufacturer specs over rule it.

yep it says on the first page, if outside of the guide, manufacturers specs must be followed- with proof supplied

so if you can get a particular brand of tyre, say a 195/50/15, and the manufacturer of the tyre says its ok to use on a 9" rim, then it can be certed.

Got a revised one of these today- it now lists individual tyre sizes with the rim width allowable for that size

its 5 or so pages long now so will try to get a link or a copy up somehow

might make life easier for some

some super gay pattern, like a one off size..

you got it right there they have a big 5 stud pattern

i looked at one the other day that had HQ discs on the front, sorry dont know what has to be done to fit them. the original engine wasnt very powerful at all most of them ended up with holden 6pots.

cool vans though. would look good on widened original wheels with hub caps maybe?

Cool! having a 5 speed box must be a bonus. ive had 3 of these all with tridents/lowered /v8. i reckon they look tuff especially from behind they have a nice ass haha. my current one is even the same colour as yours

Decided to take the supra for a cruze/drift/skid round hampton downs today. Weather was pretty average but still had a good time.

Would of been more fun with a little more power and a manual transmission but thats all for this project for now. No more modifications are planned.

so did herbie laugh at you and spit oil in your face? or was the 1uz fast enough to get away?

awesome. i had a 250 shifter kart that i built for a while. nobody died but a few came close haha.

keen to build another one with silly amounts of power

look, this man is doing his part to save the environment and reduce carbon footprints and give polar bears somewhere to live

eng bay paint done, rad support painted and fully sick innercooler mounted and painted. cant see it when the bumper and grille is on. the rectangle hole is hidden by the bumper/number plate

Drive shaft specialists in east tamaki. Very helpful and reasonably priced.

They are a fashion statement, thats pretty much it. They are horrible to ride, fucking dangerous, and simply the metrosexual version of a road bike for those who prefer tight jeans and manbags over lycra shorts and shaved legs (hate me all you want but you know im right )

see a lot of themround the trendy bits of auckland ponsonby etc

a mate of mine is into them, they are weird to ride, not being able to coast- to me (being fat/lazy) the best bit of riding a bicycle is hauling ass down hill without having to put in any effort

i built an engine years ago that broke one of the rod bolts when torquing it up- the last one. couldnt be bothered stripping it all so just whacked in a new set of arp bolts and it survived years of abuse and revs

Getting the rods resized is one of those things thats recommended to do when rebuilding engines anyway but you might get away with not doing it. cant see why it would make any difference on mains, as the caps are located by a tight fit in the block or dowels and the mains are usually bolts which you have to remove anyway

also stolen wof sticker

modified reg label

cut springs

bald eagers

rusty modgies

and racepros with rips and burns

and a big muffler thats twice the size that need

the muffler must be a dumpy tip one to fit a rotor.

also required- unreadable graffiti sticker for front or rear windows

interior to smell like weed

diff to be welded up

biggest issue i can think of is the steering arm- usually on a fwd car the rack is mounted quite high so the steering arm on the hub is also high. Doesnt take a lot of change heightwise to make bumpsteer quite bad- a torana i drove once went from being absolutely shithouse horrible to normal, moving the steering arm down 15mm. (it had HQ spindles and brakes)

unless you build something using the original chassis and body combination it will be a 2010 car and have to comply with the rules for building a new car

eg if you build a 40 ford pickup on a 40 ford chassis and you have rego history or its still registered, then its a 40 ford.

if you put a 40 cab on a 85 l200 chassis then its a 2010 lvvta rustmaster or whatever you want to call it

had a old beater surf for a while its great fun hardest thing is finding places to go round auckland, went to woodhill 4x4 park a few times but it needs to piss down with rain for it to be any fun, the sand drains real fast so not much mud

be prepared for body damage or youre not trying hard enough

you will need a spade and a snatch strap minimum

and a winch is handy if youre going out without another truck

geminis made in australia have a borg warner diff, it looks like a commy one but they have smaller axles- there may be other differences as well smaller gears etc

australia has/had local content rules where a oz made car has to have x amount of oz made stuff- eg the oz r31 skyline having a bw solid axle instead of the independent rear like japan

and some odd combinations like some old coronas had a holden 4cyl in them in oz

dont know about pizzas though

you still got the crusty 245 lying round??

sold on trademe on sunday.......still havnt heard from buyer, ill let you know if it falls through

What CR are you going to run, and what kind of fueling?

If you want to spend lots of coin, The powerjection III set up ( http://www.professional-products.com/EFI_3.php ) would be the shit. But if your budget is anything like mine, a holley carb will get the job done.

Comp works out to be 8.75-1 with the edelbrock heads. the local speed shop was trying to sell me one of those powerjection things but bit out of my price range....i do like the idea though.....all the efi stuff hidden away..... i want it to all look like it could have been a factory option, the engine will be factory colours, with repro engine bay decals, original rocker covers etc. will probably be blow thru carb mainly to keep it simple looking and not needing to spend arms and legs

Dont forget the race pro blow off valve too ! But in all honesty this things is going to be a torque monster. Great for towing the boat down the quarter mile. Ill challenge you to some power skids at powercruise in my HQ.

keen as to get it going for powercruise! will be a good test for the $300 tardme auto ive got for it haha

Have made a bit of progress with this thing

Building a turbo 318 for it, alloy heads, steel crank, scat rods, forged pistons, garrett gt4082, 60mm w/gate

just need cam and lifters and engine can go together

pulled out 245, done turbo pipes and exhaust, intercooler, tidied underside, chassis connectors, mod fuel tank, shifter

next job is engine bay paint

have used the 3m underbody sealer on my car, works better than the septone stuff.

took ages to get off my hands too so it sticks well

must be the only oldschool rear drive car i havnt seen with a rotary conversion

aussie ones are funny they made them with a 6 cyl

chase auto components (penrose) and autobend (east tamaki) both do new performance cats- not cheap though

yes requires cert, most of the arms i have seen have been ok, there is some cheap crap around that is poorly designed and made though.