cletus

If these are the factory specs - what should happen if my car has a shorter ride height than what is stated in the guide? say i'm running an 290mm ride height?

I might take this info with me if an amendment hasnt been made to the shit rule, and try and battle my case with it.

As it stands at the moment- if thats the factory specs, then its no more than half a degree over that, regardless of height. that half a degree IS the allowance.

i checked an mx5 last week at around that height you mentioned and it was a fair bit over, im not sure how its going to go cause the adjusters were maxed out.

i can see some extra adjustment from slotted mounting holes may be a necessary option for some cars

yes if its already certed, and its all the same(not any lower etc) you dont need to worry about it.

Does this mean that it's certified to run platform adjustable coilovers at all? The vehicle currently just has a standard strut/shock combo.

I'm picking not.

you are correct sir.

Ok so the new camber info sheet has come out and we can't exceed OEM Camber + 0.5 , fine whatever i can make it work to be legal and legit.

My Question Regarding Cert is on front strut's with incorporated spindle (Datsun/ style )

So what about taking the camber plates rotating them 90deg by drilling new holes to use them to gain additional caster?,

The static camber would be fixed , caster would be increased by sliding the plate as you would for adjusting camber, high speed stability would be increased and the front wheels would stay centered in the wheel guard and rubbing would not be an issue.

New holes would need drilled in the strut tower.

in theory that would be do- able

however then you would lose any adjustability as far as getting the camber correct

and most cars get a fair amount of caster increase from lowering the car anyway, usually more than the spec on the sheet. last thing we need is someone deciding that caster should be within half a degree of what the sheet says, that would royally fuck things up

if there is anything ive learned from the internet, is anything can look good slammed with cool wheels

2.43 is the bit that deals with blowers poking out bonnets

http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards ... ctions.pdf

bear in mind that a lot of "legal" cars you see with blowers hanging out the bonnet, are not really legal.ive had a couple of arguements with people saying im a prick for not certing thier car when" xxx`s car has a cert and thier blower sticks out way more than mine" they may have a cert plate but what most guys do is take scoops/spacers/air filters off for cert then as soon as the plate goes on the tall stuff all gets put back on. So now when we do a cert on a car with anything hanging out the bonnet, the protrusion has to be measured at its highest point and that gets recorded on the cert plate.

Was it you i saw last weekend out in East Tamaki when i was out tuning my Trueno?

yes- you were using the east tamaki asphalt dyno too? haha

i bought my ignition and dizzy from C+M, Carl is a good bloke. ive done everything myself on this engine apart from machining work and getting the carb modified.

more boost will happen- but probably have to do something with the driveline soon as i think its living on borrowed time as is, im surprised nothing has broken yet

went to drags at meremere today

first run, scary, no traction cold track, 14.something

second run a bit better, a pigeon flew thru the traps before i got there so i have an 8 second timeslip for that one

third, gave it more death in the burnout to get some temp in the tyres. that worked, no more traction issues. 12.7@107mph

fourth run was best of the day 12.66@108mph

fifth run got knocked out of dyo round one, 12.8 on a 12.6 dial in. didnt really care as was stoked to get in the 12s

Hi Sheepers,

Ive found you some merchandise for your new purchase, a nice sticker to put on your bumper or window, and a comfortable t- shirt to wear so that everyone can know what a great choice you have made in powerplants. Did you know, Valiant 6 cylinders are used in Racing Cars? There are several b-grade stock cars equipped with the VERY SAME engine you have.

should have a standard marking on the lens ADR/SAE/DOT etc

So I've gotta start the VIN process first which gives me a 28 day period to sort everything else out.

you can take the car to the TSDA (vin man) and they can allocate a new vin number to the vehicle without doing the actual re reg inspection, that way you will have a vin for the repair cert man

this may be of assistance, theres a table with regos and when they were issued

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vehicle_re ... ew_Zealand

ling ling if you are going to attack your panels with a grinder, use a paint stripping wheel rather than a grinding disc. panel steel is thin, it doesnt take much with a grinder wheel to go thru the steel. and wear safety goggles, the bits that fly off hurt

was talking to a guy at a performance shop about them last week, he likes them, spool faster and last much longer than the masterpower ones he was using

my mrs has an 01 familia sp20, has been pretty good, coil shit itself and have done lower arm bushes but no other issues and its done 185,000km.

she would like something bigger, once the kids pram is in the boot theres NO room for anything else. the other wierd thing is the rear seats are quite high so if you have tall people in the back, heads touch the roof. she would like an atenza wagon but cant really afford it at the moment

but because of this clause you now cant get manufacturers recommendations for anything outside that list.

a manufacturers tyre size recommendation trumps the lvvta size chart thing

ie if a manufacturer says on a proper size chart, that a specific brand and model of tyre in 195/50/15 can go on a 8'' rim then thats fine, if we supply a copy of the chart.

we used to be able to supply a letter from a reputable tyre fitter, but obviously everyone just abused that and got thier mate at the tyre shop to say a 145 was sweet on a 10 inch rim

that tyre size chart, lvvta got a bunch of lists of manufacturers minimum and maximum tyre sizes and chose the most stretched/balloonspec fitments, and stuck them on the list. not all tyre sizes are on there.

ive tried to find on the interweb some different brands of tyres that have manufacturer specs saying they can go on wider rims- mostly for 15x8 rims cause thats a problem, tyre shops sell them and fit 195/50/15 which IMO fits fine and is perfectly safe, and can actually fit under a car that the wheels are designed for- but i havnt been able to find fuck all.I am going to look at a car tomorrow with some 205/something/15s hankooks which are designed to go on an 8'' rim apparently.

thats not how i read it, thats only a small part of it.

that refers to making sure its ok when its over manufacturer spec, but within the half-degree-over spec.

the only time it mentions being able to go outside this half degree over limit is when its a legit motorsport vehicle with an authority card

you could go here http://lvvta.proboards.com/index.cgi?bo ... thread=240 to clarify that, the guys answering the questions on the forum are the technical advisors at lvvta.

it would be nice if i was incorrect and you could go over that limit, but i cant see that happening as it would be back to how it was before.......

its got 64 jets primary, 84 secondary, 6.5 power valve. i tried a 3.5 pv but it got a lean half throttle spit with that in.

the main thing was boost referencing the power valve, it now has an external fitting that takes boost/vac from the carb baseplate, and the carb hat.

i didnt think it would make much of a difference but the power valve opens much sooner now, can tell by watching the af meter you can see it drop with light throttle application

the boosters have been changed to what look like holley ones, no more dribbly fuel, it comes out in a fine mist. and there are modifications to the emulsion holes and power valve channels. thats all i can remember seeing in there....... i put some holley pump squirters on it as well

im real pleased with how it runs now.

its quite good, the extra boost makes a difference. i like to get the most out of it at each stage before just winding in 1 million boosts, hence only going up 3psi for now

idle afr about 13.0

light open road cruise 14.5

wot 11.2

it has a boost referenced power valve now, which doesnt take much throttle to open it.

found some pics of underneath.....before it got covered in oil/road shit/rubber etc

oh and its got some wide steels now, still got other wheels so i can swap when it suits

and inside, got some new gauges, originally had an auto meter sport comp tacho i bought off trade me, which turned out to be a fake china copy.

Got carb back as well. Runs nice now, upped boost to 8psi for now.

tim @ ttt automotive is a good chap

http://www.compturbo.com/spotlights/oil_less

no oil feed needed on these

i have heard the standard bunch of bananas manifold is quite restrictive, is that correct?

i like this shape commo, i have a vs wagon its a bit of a beater, but i like it

registering interest. my dog would like to do wees on some different trees/plants/buildings/legs

I want that. I would put a 3UZ in it. It would rule.

this one has 2ur innit.

FUPCwolLrsY