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Posts posted by cletus
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Must be. It's not new cable, I got given a lot of welding cable many years ago, I think this is the third car I've done with it
The cable isn't damaged or squashed or anything so it must just be bung inside
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Nick the sparky came and had a look.
My wiring from the alternator is a bit on the small side and not the right type of wire. He made a test wire to bypass that, alternator was charging but it still wasn't charging at the battery
there was a large voltage drop in one section of the battery cable that runs from front to back
He said that was very uncommon and likely would have been why the original alternator shit itself
Whipped the cable out and he's going to make a new one with the right stuff
Pretty pleased to know what is wrong, I never would have figured that out myself
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Went to father's day drags. Improved PB slightly to 11.35@120 which was good
Missed second round of DYO because it wouldn't start, flat battery.
Jump started it and managed to get home and it had charged the batt again.. checked charge voltage and it was low.
Took alternator to sparky mate, he put it on testing machine, was low on output, changed reg, still poor , had blown diode.
Turns out the guy who I'd asked to get a decent alternator when I put the car together had supplied me a China copy bosch
Got a genuine bosch one, fitted it and improved the heat shielding a bit as it's close to the exhaust.
Now doesn't charge at all.
Checked connections, checked ergs at correct spots etc, zip.
Took it off again, had it tested on testing machine, it works fine . Put back on car, nothing . Checked everything 5 times, it's got me stumped . Everything that should make it work, does what it should, and it's wired exactly the same as before
Sparky is going to come have a look this weekend as I'm all out of ideas
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rock auto has some. freight doesnt take very long
Brake & Wheel Hub > Brake Line > Brake Line | RockAuto
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23 hours ago, Roman said:
The axle tramp this car had on semi slicks or street tyres was insane, the shock loading on the drivetrain must have been intense.
I am 100% convinced that squishy drag tyres do less damage to drivetrain than axle tramp.
The echo as well, on semi slicks it felt like the car was ripping itself to pieces.
On drag slicks it just felt like a CVT, but the wheels were spinning instead of gearbox guts.
I'm not too worried about breaking stuff. If it breaks it breaks.
One annoying thing.
I'm just looking to get some clarification around tech inspection requirements.
It seems that ethrottle is banned for drag racing tech rules unless it's factory fitted.
So that might prevent me from passing a tech inspection.Are you planning on going faster than 11.0? Or do you want to avoid wof/reg but still run at street car events?
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On 13/08/2023 at 21:23, HighLUX said:
Chur bowl
This was the fix, rotatey bit was not rotating
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no, repair cert is only for unregistered vehicles
sounds like a wof insector who is afraid of getting in trouble so is applying rules that are not valid for wof
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50mm turbosmart gate, turbo is a GT4082 which is just an oem scania truck turbo. apparently good for about 600hp
i chose it because it was quite cheap compared to a "performance" turbo of similar size.
turbo guy reckoned the exhaust side was a bit big and the comp side a bit small but it seems to work well. makes boost from about 2000rpm, full boost by 25-2700ish, i rev it to 6 and it doesnt drop off
only downside was i had to make v band things to suit, as the downpipe is a scania specific part
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On 24/08/2023 at 17:55, Muncie said:
Something like that would be better
In my opinion (and I'm not a tuning whiz, it's just stuff I've done that hasn't caused any problems) wastegate flow is important, even more so on something that is going to run lower boost (as the gate is going to flow more) and might be a bit fragile or sensitive to boost spikes or fluctuations
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i dont think its meant to be serviceable, but there is 2 bungs which can be removed, and under those are 2 pistons with springs behind them, a circlip holds the piston in, which i couldnt get out of the non functioning one
im not actually sure what it does, it appears to be a block to pair the LF and RR circuits together
i think i might just delete it altogether and run front-rear split instead of diagonal and see what happens
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Brake bleeding.
Daihatsu Mira, has a brake proportioning valve/splitter on the firewall.
Had brake imbalance problem, replaced wheel cylinders , still had problem, got second hand proportioning valve which when you blow air through was more even in what was coming out the rear ports
Fitted it, had a hard time bleeding it , now can't get any fluid to come out of the left rear ,pedal is good, not a blocked hose as I can crack a pipe at the hose or the valve and nothing comes out
It's almost like it has a safety thing where if something happens a valve shuts or something?
Any ideas or anyone had similar issues?
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you would probably get away with a straight thru muffler if the engine had a turbo , but an NA engine will need something better.
go hang out at a boat ramp and when a tractor with a coby sticking up launches a boat, thats a good indication of what a non turbo 2L diesel would sound like
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something with a bit of a 'maze'inside ie not straight through.
Autobend - Universal Mufflers - Page 1 - Created with Publitas.com
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id suggest fitting a proper muffler
there are few things more punishing than a loud exhaust on something that is slow.
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Nissan March (micra) K11 appreciation thread
in General Car Chat
Posted
8 rares, that's very rare