cletus

I have a cable on the vg (a home brewed setup) which I fitted when it had the turbo on it , because I wanted more line pressure in the trans at lower throttle openings because it had lots of torque when it came on boost, even at half or less throttle, compared to what it would have had 

I left it all the same when I pulled the turbo stuff out.

basically set it so that at WOT the cable is pulled all the way out

It doesn't shift into 3rd until you're doing about 55-60 

Probably better to shift a bit late, and a bit firm, than the other way. At least it won't slip or get hot 

Plymouth has a manual valve body and they are full pressure all the time. Which can be a bit harsh and clunky 

Kick down linkage and its adjustment is pretty important on torqueflites 

If it's shifting late, and at higher rpm, might be adjusted too long (or it might have a shift kit in it )

I had a 250 hornet as a first road bike, I liked it, I now have its big brother version 

3 hours ago, mjrstar said:

Are you running a resistor in the sense wire?

No, just a bulb 

It worked in the previous setup with the China bosch , the light comes on and goes off as soon as I start it. Comes on if you disconnect the sense wire 

3 hours ago, mjrstar said:

I wonder if it's a winding issue which is only apparent when belt tension is applied. I'm assuming the bench test is driven directly on the front..

Test bench has a belt drive, it's a pretty cool bit of gear, it's huge 

3 hours ago, RXFORD said:

Is it spinning fast enough to throw little electric people where they need to go?

 

ie; pulley sizing correct for idle speed of crank pulley diam?

This has crossed my mind as the crank pulley is smaller than a normal sb mopar , it's off a marine engine. It is the same as it was with the previous alternator though. A big rev does not change it 

Yes, it has one , in which I have tried 1w, 3w, and 5w bulbs

Also has a battery sense wire which runs all the way to the battery on a separate wire

Ha, nope

On to week 7 of not being able to figure it out. 

Alternator tests fine on test machine

Alternator does not work on car 

Replaced battery cable, earth wire, made separate earth for alt, made bigger alt wire, wiring does what it should at alternator plug, bypass all this with another battery and sense wire completely separate to the car , nothing 

The alternator light flashes occasionally but alternator makes no charge. 

Nick the sparky is rather puzzled also as to why it doesn't work 

He has done more testing on the alternator this week and it works so fucked if I know. 

If it doesn't work this time I think I'll give up and adapt something else to it 

Genuinely stoked to see you get this done  and legit, congrats 

Such a massive undertaking, I hope you get a lot of enjoyment out of it  

that is a huge improvement , looks sweet!

5 hours ago, Nominal said:

Windscreen pillar damage is probably the killer for the insurance company / repair

this. its probably made of ultra mega uber high strength layered damascus tungsten koreanaluminum which can ony be repaired by a hyundai trained artisinal korean monk in the south eastern area of seoul on a wednesday between 11.45 and 1.00 on a fine day when the humidity is below 47%

it is insane how expensive it has gotten to fix some late model stuff

4 hours ago, yoeddynz said:

Took a customers van in for a wof today. $70  (we've usually paid $50 at our other garage) 

Cost increase is apparently due to the wof sticker prices jumping from around $480 to close to $1100 for, iirc, I think 7 packs of 30 stickers. Don't quote me on the figures as I've forgotten already but yeah - huge increase.  From now on wof/cof testers entering the system don't have to pay the $1000 'registration' (or test fee) - this price is now absorbed by the wof sticker price. 

Quite a few other changes going on too. Looks like lvvta pricing structure will change too? 

https://www.nzta.govt.nz/about-us/consultations/archive/regulatory-funding-and-fees-consultation/proposal-6-changes-to-fees-and-charges-for-motor-vehicle-certifier-activities/

Yep. Cost of a cert went up $25 at the beginning of the month 

One thing to keep in mind 

While all these things are good, on an average street car, it can be pretty far off 'ideal' and still function acceptably for 95% of the driving you will do. 

If you look at angles on standard vehicles you will see what I mean. Lifted 4wds of all flavours are a good example of everything being completely wrong but they still drive acceptably 

I'd get it close as you can for what works and not get too hung up on it being perfect. 

The only thing I'd pay attention to, is the angles of the top arms so it locates the axle in both directions properly 

Yes 

https://ppsr.companiesoffice.govt.nz/help-centre/searching-the-ppsr/motor-vehicle-search/

I can't find it now but I'm sure I've done it by text before, costs $2 or something like that 

On 05/10/2023 at 17:14, governorsam said:

Read something the other day about new rules coming into effect if a car has been acid washed and certification/wof inspections.

something @cletus may know about?

Haven't heard anything yet...

On 03/10/2023 at 21:29, Vintage Grumble said:

Now that the speed limit on my daily commute has been lowered to 80kmh max (WANKERS) I have been having my usual retarded ideas of buying something cheap to run for the 70km round trip. If something like that could do 35km each way at 80kmh max, it would be cheap motoring (apart from purchase price obvs) and be a bit of fun to go for a hoon on now and then.

if the blue politicians get in and  do what they say, it might be back to 100 so you may want to factor that into your calculations

Maybe to an aussie with a s1/2/3 rx7? 

So they can fit 22" Simmons