DB8-TypeR
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Posts posted by DB8-TypeR
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Sold my Chaly on the weekend for a decent sum, now the money is burning a hole in my pocket and the call for a modern daily small bike is calling.
Currently have various searches on trademe saved for a PCX150/160, C125 Supercub, Yamaha Tricity 155 or wildcards Vespa Primavera 150/Lambretta V200. Dirty illigal thoughts of MR2B XRM125 also. Long term planning to retire the Spacy from Daily duties since engine parts are unobtainium so eventually will be a paperweight, replace with modern something, tidy up and sell to someone who admires its weirdness.
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Just throwing it out there....
https://www.facebook.com/share/7F1VmVxbG2kNW8fp/?mibextid=kL3p88
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Largely due to being lazy haven't actually done anything further with this other than occasionally use it. Be nice it it was manual but quite good for a average shitbox
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When we imported the wifes vitz from Japan it would do weird shit. Turns out the fuse for the Alternator "sense" circuit was missing so ECU wasnt able to tell alternator to output anything
Can only assume another vehicle nearby on the wharf or ship needed a fuse so they grabbed on from the vitz
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Got sidetracked getting the Integra a WOF and driving that recently but today decided to give fixing the leather on the drivers seat a crack.
Initially it looked like this, I think mostly due to the seatbelt buckle always hanging there and getting squished when you get in
Bought a leather repair kit off ebay for $50, which provides some filler paste which makes it look like this
And then some dye which was pre made in BMW Taninrot and then some tints to fine tune it. This is it after 1 coat, it looks worse in the camera lighting but a pretty good match. Will give it another coat and maybe tint the dye a little lighter to give a better match
Waaaaaay better now though
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Im surprised you dont have a growler to test it properly. Mostly just so you can have a growler
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Finally had time to do some stuff on this after 3 months of 60 hour weeks.
Being a BMW it leaked oil, typical E36 leak where the paper gasket for the oil filter housing and the o ring for the pressure relief valve get old and hard. About $1 worth of parts and 2 hours of swearing at German engineers for requiring 7 different sized tools to do a simple job.
new on the left, old on the right with its flat o rings (bought a complete new relief valve because why not)
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Or just grab a form, take it home and fill it out and go back another day and try again/go somewhere else that issues plates
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Is it a mechanical speedo drive or electric Speed Sensor?
Good chance you've dislodged it when mucking about with the intake manifold
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Havnt done anything exciting, did an Aliexpress order of a couple new blank keys, a central locking actuator and some door handle gaskets.
Have since decided that the reason the central locking isnt working is that one or both of the door switches are faulty as the interior light is always on if you have it on "door open" mode.
Anyway, swapped the door handle gaskets today, exciting I know but they looked shit
Just need to pop a cover on the door jam and poke around with a screw driver and you end up with this:
Bits of yuck on gasket get cleaned away then pop this on:
Not a perfect fit (because $2 off Aliexpress) but good enough
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Finally had a full day off work so decided to try get into the boot
The hole in the middle isnt supposed to be there, so someone has had this problem before..... Stripped all the wiring loom out and found some dodgy cores
Taped all those up and tested it and it works, but the rest of the central locking doesnt. So when you lock the car the boot stays unlocked unless you manually lock it. So still some digging to do. Its pretty straight forward as the BMW Electrical Troubleshooting Manual is easily available online and has full wiring diagrams and component location pictures.
Boot is fairly small but big enough for a weekend away
Also swapped out the big long aerial for the little stumpy one in the above pic, I think its the OEM one off the CRV.
Also pulled the headunit out to see why the radio wasnt getting any reception and found it was because nobody had plugged the aerial in...
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I think they are slightly bigger than a MX5? Or maybe thats compared to a NB rather than the earlier NA ones. Certainly small though, I lost it in the work carpark the other day as it was parked between a AU Falcon Wagon and a Ford Everest.
As for storage, not much in the cabin, has a parcel tray when the roof is up and a little storage compartment between the roll bars but thats it. Havnt managed to open the boot yet, that was the plan for yesterday but ended up getting called out so ran out of time after id given it a wash.
Cleans up pretty good (apart from the bonnet which has been painted by a blind man)
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Can confirm it does have solid front discs, good thing its not very heavy and not very fast
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I would have liked a more powerful version but couldnt justify the extra cost for what really is a fairly pointless toy, but it is still quite nice to drive.
I will have to have a look at the brakes, id kinda believe it as its hardly the fastest thing on the road and doesnt really encourage you to drive quickly. Just a wind on the bald patch cruiser.
Compared with my similarly aged Integra it has way less rattles but feels very "heavy" on the road
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About 10 years ago I used
Spoke decent enough english, easy as to deal with. I ended up finding the car at auction we wanted, sent him the link and he arranged inspection and did the bidding for us then handed over to autohub.
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So that was Sunday, since then Ive seen it in the daylight for about 10mins due to starting work early and finishing late.
Unexcitingly its just a 1900cc M44 Engine with a 4 speed auto, has red leather seats, some 18" wheels which look like BBS LM but dont have the BBS logo on them and a Japanese "ARQRAY" stainless exhaust system.
Known issues so far is that I cant get the boot open, its electrically actuated and a common issue is the wiring loom snaps where the boot hinges, also the thermostat appears stuck open as it sits at 1/4 of the temp gauge while driving but rises to just on 1/2 while stationary.
Background of the purchase is that Ive been sort of looking for a cheap project for a while (because the house, small boat, Integra and 3 small bikes/scooters just wasnt enough) and missed out on a 2003 Mini Cooper S last year because I chickened out plus it was manual which the wife isnt that happy driving. Kinda liked the idea of a Triumph Spitfire but without the old brittish car problems and classic car prices. So had saved a trademe search for cheapest Mercedes SLK and BMW Z3 and occasionally kept an eye on them with no real intention of buying but had researched each and found both to be fairly reliable but typical older Euro car issues. Then came my moment of weakness.
Plans were to hoon it for a couple months and then sell in Summer when everyone thinks a convertible is a good idea, but now my Wife quite likes it. So plans have changed to fix its so far minor niggles and keep for a year or so
Let the mid life crisis/hairdresser comments commence
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Ok so every single car Ive ever bought has ended up being sight unseen, and so far its worked out ok (all the ones ive looked at before purchasing have been lemons that Ive walked away from)
Imported my first car and second car from Japan, first time seeing them was picking them up from compliance. Next car was my old Honda Shuttle that was a $1400 trademe purchase that a friend picked up in ChCh and drove 15 hours home for me, then a trademe $1 reserve CR-V that I sold 2 weeks later for profit, then a Manual CR-V that was in Auckland, then a trademe $1 reserve Caldina for my wife, then imported a Vitz to replace the Caldina, then to replace the second CR-V a newer CR-V that was also a trademe $1 Reserve deal... typically the first my wife knows of them is after the auction is closed......
So not one to break with tradition, on Sunday I was at work and got a trademe notification on my phone that an Auction on my watchlist was due to close. For a 1997 BMW Z3, and most importantly it was cheap. There wasnt a plan to actually buy it but with 2mins to go there was no further bids so I put one on it, half hearted bidding war that raised the price $80 and Id won. Fuck.
So I dutilly made sure there was no money owing on it and transferred the money, an hour later had confirmation it had been received so txt my wife to see if she wanted to go for a drive to Rotorua because Id bought something I shouldnt have, her first guess was a car and when she found out what it was was more excited about the purchase than I was. Finished work at 2pm, picked up the car at 3:30 and was pleasantly surprised it was in better condition than I was preparing myself for. Drove it straight home (wife with her AA memebership card following) with the roof down and froze my ass off, home at 5 got one pic and then it was dark.
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Fair enough, every 80s and early 90s honda either has that light on, or the wire is already grounded. Super common
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The "exhaust overheat" light is often just a faulty sensor that attaches to the cat, just grounding the wire to any nearby bolt deletes the light
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Alright, found the problem. The Pink/White wire had a loose pin in the plug at the headlight switch. The pin had pushed out the back of the plug and was only making intermittent connection (and of course tested perfectly when you stuck the multi meter probe in the back of the plug and pushed the pin back in). So the resistor wasnt in the circuit when the lights were on and the bulbs blow.
Was probably caused by me tracing wires to figure out where they all went to replace the regulator the week prior.
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Yea from what I can see it has 2x resistor in parallel with Park lights, and drops one out when switching to headlights.
Its quite possible Im chasing my tail and something as simple as the headlight blew (it could be original for all I know) and caused all other lamps to blow. It was just that it happened right after I changed the regulator which I assumed would have been connected to the lighting circuit, but from the diagram I found it doesnt appear to be
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2 hours ago, cubastreet said:
The resistor will probably still be connected parallel with the bulbs when the switch is off, which is why it needs to be disconnected to test it.
There shouldn't be any 20w bulbs in the circuit. It should have 2x speedo lamps 3.4W each, position light 4W, tail light 5W and headlight 25W.
Those together should be 3.5 ohms and with a 6.7 ohm resistor would make it 2.3 ohms. If the resistor is 3 ohms, it should measure 1.6 ohms across the lot.
My multimeter seems show that the Yellow lighting wire is connected to nothing with the light switch off. And the lights also dont appear to have either resistor in the circuit when the switch is OFF. Only when on "Park" or "ON" does the resistor connect to the lights
That wiring diagram is for another bike (125cc Spacy essentially) but was the only one I could find that showed the regulator/stator/lighting wired as mine is. But yes good point the position lamps and tail light are 5W (brake and Indicators are the 20W filiment), also my scoot doesnt have the auto choke and resistor aspect attached to the lighting coil as shown in above diagram.
Need to get a new headlight bulb (none in stock locally so has been ordered) and then can do some testing and see whats going on, worst case can always get a 2 wire voltage reg to keep everything in check.
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3 hours ago, cubastreet said:
Something's not right, have you pulled the resistor out to test it? 3 ohms @ 20V would consume 130W so it would be getting pretty bloody hot.
Yep tested both resistors, with no headlight on the AC output of the stator isnt connected to anything.
With lights on it has the load of the lights (3x 20w) and 1x resistor. Headlight adds extra load on top of this.
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2 hours ago, SOHC said:
Dose it have direct AC lighting with a separate regulator that just dumps the excess voltage to ground?
No extra regulator that I can find
1 hour ago, cubastreet said:Kind of looks like it's unregulated AC with a resistor to bleed off a bit of juice.
My Vespa was built with no regulator or resistor so if one bulb dies, all the rest burn out by the time you get home.
This appears to be how it works, though mine only has 3ohm resistors. Though I'm still getting 20v at WOT on the headlight circuit with new bulbs. So don't know why it worked for the last 41 years but doesn't now.
Have got some more resistors to chuck in series and see what happens
Bike spam thread
in General Bike Chat
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Usually if a bulb blows they get way too much voltage and it boils the battery