Testament

does bumper to bumper takanini friday afternoon traffic help due to lower wind resistance/drafting effect?

It's pretty avg. Durepox or similar two part epoxy primer is what you want as said 124 times in this thread before.

Full face is really nice, they don't fog up, but yeah quite a bit spendier. 3m Half mask with filters are pretty affordable from most industrial supplies places.

Both maybe?

3 hours ago, johnny.race said:

Yeah this was my point mate. 3.7 is high as for an 8. 3.23:1 is starting to get up there for comfortable cruising in an 8. You won't get something like those numbers for a lux. 3.1:1 is probably where most would like to be. You are in the domain of big boy diffs then. 

Barry, mate, broken record yarn internet arguing competition etc.

My point was you can get as low as 3.07:1 G series gears they do exist, albeit rare. And if you know how toyota parts ordering works chances are you can buy new ones from Toyota

On ‎06‎/‎02‎/‎2019 at 07:27, johnny.race said:

9 Inch over the Hilux in the bum. The lux item has no choice in the lower 3's. This is where you want to be if you intend to drive on the street running something in the 5 Litres plus range. 

that's not actually true. you can get lower gears in a Toyota G diff. Just they are not common as wrecker parts or aftermarket as most are 4x4 spec. 3.73's aren't hard to get aftermarket and I think the lower ones you have to order form Toyota as they were typically either in small tire hiace vans or crowns/centurys.

14 hours ago, kpr said:

reso and baffle type mufflers will cut out different noises,  so always good idea to have one of each, to try avoid having  drone or rasp. 

depends how the 200hp is being made.  something na with big cams and overlap  is going to work best with least exhaust pressure possible.   otherwise 2.5" will be plenty. 2.5" bit easier to make quieter,  although 3" doesn't have to be loud if done right.   

if going with a baffled muffler , i'd step up the muffler a size or 2.  as pretty much none of them will flow as much as the pipe size they are made for. no point running  big tube then putting a cork in the end of it

to try shut the starlet up with 3" system, i run 2 reso style straight throughs,, then an oversized baffled muffler at rear to keep flow up.  

this is on the 124 with supercharged 2L.  its 2.5" with a 2.5" coby and currently a 2.25" turbo style on the back as it was too noisy with a 2.5" straight through. both were just cheapies form chase. the whole thing is a bit crap as I have modified it a few times over the years and it gets banged up pretty often as there isn't much room to tuck things up under the 124 chassis which then makes vband clamps and flanges leak.

Also depending on how link/sequential tuning goes I could end up taking the S/C off and going turbo so Im thinking of going larger pipe size to future proof. Thinking oval tube so still 2.5" deep but 4" wide,  similar flow to between 3" and 3.5" . There really is only room for 2 silencing things,  one before the diff ~ 400mm x 225mm  and at the back similar size and has to be pretty shallow for a muffler, cant be much more than 125mm deep so no barrel type with dumpy tip may apply

11 hours ago, cletus said:

Have driven a few cars with 3.5" exhausts, with adrenalin r straight through mufflers that work much better than you'd think - not that loud, no drone. All turbo cars though. 

 good to know, I have been looking at their stuff, not cheap but when you compare to shipping similar spec stuff in it works out OK.

check the negative/earth connections of the batteries to the chassis and engine to chassis if you can, bad connections there could also cause poor cranking

while hemis explanation sounds plausible it seems very odd that you would even know the oil got overheated without a temp gauge unless he has some story about the thing seizing up and smoking out of the breather or oil cap with the temp gauge cold or something like that. Which he would have told you? or is he being a bit cagey about exactly what happened to it?

def favourite car/bathtub of the event so well done. was cool to meet old dennis too

still cant get over how tiny everything is, like 3/8" wheel stud or something haha

yeah go mang

only not sure about rivnut comment. I cant fully picture exactly how that works but using even a large rivnut to hold in something associated with suspension parts in difficult to access location seems likely to cause you trouble. at the very least the chance of a shitty thread galling causing the rivnut to spin before you tighten it up or similar. a fixed stud or bolt tacked to a sandwich plate or something like that might be more robust and less likely to be a pita. but maybe I don't understand exactly how this is going together and there is no load involved/it's just holding it there until the shocks go in or something.

larger size piping with resonator and  turbo or baffle type muffler vs larger size piping with two turbo or baffle type mufflers vs  smaller piping with resonator and straight through muffler

thoughts on performance/loudness? e.g . say 2.5" vs 3" on 200hp engine

use youshop uk? its weird though uk people are usually ok to send to send to nz just might not be on their automated website thing

jeep 4.0

fuel injected so it works properly

goes forever

dirt cheap

parts also dirt cheap

jeep AW4 is actually an aisin A340 so can probably swap bellhousing around to fit to other a340s or maybe w series manual? (AX15 manual was actually a W55 or something)

can anchor large container ships if required

the other thing great about the factory rad is it will fit with 100% certainty without any additional pain in the arse things later on e.g. now the spanner doesn't fit to undo the water pump or some other stupid thing that always happens when you modify cars.

On ‎14‎/‎01‎/‎2019 at 19:16, crash said:

Fiat Dino

mob boss in Italian job drives one too. so great. pretty sad to a see a miura trashed though, they are def max horn spec

Sunday 10th Feb?

yeah def trick for young players on any gearbox with non factory clutch flywheel setup. concentric slave cylinders maybe more forgiving? although im sure there will be a travel limit there too.

basically best to setup and test before fitting engine and gearbox to car if at all possible.

/lingpost

21 hours ago, Bling said:

If you can fix the thread (by going bigger and metric) with a set you have, I'd go that way for sure. I can't see that fix not being up to the job anyway.

This is fleeting with danger of making future Mr bronzes life a worse place for the sake of a helicoil set

Having not the right spanner for putting metric/imperial bolts in opposite thread holes and other surprises lay down that path in the future

this exhaust noise thing brings up another question

while you said baffles etc should need tools to be removed but what about the case of a baffle to make the exhaust quiet for oldman reasons

basically similar to a lot of modern supercars/high performance cars that have some kind of varex type butterfly valve thing in the exhaust

the idea being with the valve open the exhaust is louder - but still passes noise requirements but with the valve closed the car is proper quiet for nice cruising/not upsetting everyone when you are just going to get a bottle of mlik from the servo?

LS is narrower /smaller..............

On 22/10/2018 at 22:23, Rhyscar said:

 

Here is said motivation requested 

 

 

 

Ooer nice.

This is of interest to me. Do you know what ecu they used? Factory Honda or something else?

On 25/12/2018 at 07:49, 73crownwagon said:

I to was amazed by how .5 of a mm made all the difference! I'm actually interested to learn more about pitch angle and impeller design now because obviously the smallest of changes make improvements 

.5mm is 20thou

Old Barry machinist would drive a truck through that!

Heck the rough/getrdun guy at work was called ten thou ted sometimes

Only needs as much clearance as there is play in the bearings + 1x beesdick

So by the squeeling of your impeller it is now right. 

could not get over how this was the only thing that would hook up at drag day. great burnouts and better motivation off the line than the gtr lol.

once again so well done, much claps _b

On 10/11/2018 at 10:35, markw said:

I'm curious to hear whether it was all worth it. I have a remote shifter sitting in the boot of my 124. How did the center console fair?

worth and value dont really come into the equation at this point its all because stubborn like slav haha

the shit running is definitely fuel related so I am confident i'll get it sorted, under normal driving and cruise conditions it has all of the torque and is great to cruise around in with supercharger soundtrack going on.

centre console, the ashtray goes and you have to cut out the bridge piece at the front side of the ashtray/slightly hack up the thing.  I still need to make a new cover piece for the top and get a new gearlever boot thing which should hide the edges that were cut to clear the 131R shifter.

keep up the good work man got to keep what few of these left around to put those snarky sedans in their place at the back of the que!