Testament
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Posts posted by Testament
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On 12/11/2019 at 16:10, Corbie said:
hilarious
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physically what are the glue guns, how do they work? are they piston things with variable stroke, is there a pressurised supply of glue behind them, or mystery under the blanket operation?
until measured with a high speed recorder or something I would probably question the accuracy of most of those timings anyway - so may just have to take a stab at it and adjust from observed production result anyway
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oh yeah I don't mean someone with a ticket is bad choice at all, esp if they are keen on doing the work that is excellent. someone qualified should very well know how to drive an arc and not dip tungstens etc. just whether they have experience working with thin and rusty stuff is the question really, while the basics are the same there are alot of technique things that are different. much more to do with not burning holes and minimising warpage vs on thicker stuff where the important parts are getting penetration and preventing any inclusions etc. to ensure passing NDT.
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16 hours ago, Mr Vapour said:
That's part of the repair cert. All structural repairs must be performed by a ticketed welder.
15 hours ago, Nominal said:I'm not sure that is required, particularly for older vehicles. The repair certifier I saw recently about my imported rust bucket was happy for me to do the work myself.
Yeah ticketed welder for rust repairs is a wives tale, I don't think there are any tickets for such work. the closest would some kind of panelbeating/sheetmetal qualification? doesn't mean a ticketed welder is bad at rust repairs, but it doesnt mean theyre good at it either - it is a somewhat different type of welding.
welding tickets are typically for structual steel, pressure equipment and airplane stuff, maybe other safety critical applications.
and even then there is not actually anything called a welding ticket. You have weld procedure specifications (WPS) and welders can then be qualified to the WPS and gain a procedure qualification record (PQR) is the correct terminology.
The PQR is completely specific to what is on the WPS, e.g if it is pipe welding it might be carbon steel, in a certain position, tig root run and SMAW (stick) cap. the type of tig wire and stick electrodes will be specified, the range of allowable welding settings, sheilding gas type, the piping will have fitup dimensions and bevels specified, minimum temperatures, allowable interpass temperatures, a range of diameter and thickness above and below the tested qualifying weld that the WPS can be used for. Then if you need to weld structual steel sections, or stainless steel, or significantly larger or smaller pipes you then need another WPS and PQR appropriate for the application. then for each PQR you need to have tested qualifying welds on a regular basis - it is not an indefinite qualification.
tl:dr
welding qualifications (tickets) for industrial welding have almost no application to most automotive repair work.
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On 06/11/2019 at 18:30, rot808 said:
something something rotary records
I think these guys won though, got a star and everything
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valvoline VR-1 and Castrol Edge have good amount of ZDDP too
otherwise just get some regular 10-40/20-50 and slop in some moreys
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On 04/11/2019 at 09:06, Ghostchips said:
I know someone used a power steering pump
/ling23 hours ago, ThePog said:Na man that's good, they pump oil, they have a v belt on the front, they work at normal engine revs...
/zeroling
Theres a few cars with electric power steering pumps that might work? if you have a small alloy sump it would dissipate enough heat before the pump I would think. A class mercs are one, probably others too. maybe some toyotas? MR2? MR-S?
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On 23/10/2019 at 19:24, cletus said:
Have had 2 customers recently where I've failed the car for cat being removed (reg after 2010) and they have passed an emissions test at a vtnz without a cat.
so does the passed test at vtnz mean yes the car is legal in that form? or does the cat removed mean fail even with a passed test?
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sokafing
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17 hours ago, markw said:
The volumex is good, but a little choked up. I'll fix that.
yeah the volumex is good, the inlet manifold is not the greetest mostly. all of the talks though, just for lols drove my 124vx from thames to coroglen in 5th gear at coronats way back when.
Crossing fingers that going to sequential injection is going to solve the majority of the issues I've had with mine being a piece in one way or another.
I wonder mark, do you know Steve Spiers and Blair Wald? I remember Steve telling me about a 124 coupe with VX kicking around auckland a million years ago.
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25 minutes ago, Spencer said:
big is good
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fyi should really put this question in muffler tech thread
maybe will still fit depends on actual OD and ID and fixing mechanism. "100mm" might be the OD or the ID or it might actually be 4" 101.4mm OD and ??? ID.
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On 19/10/2019 at 23:56, cletus said:
Before I bought the 8.8 I did price up a new 9" build, and it was cost reasons for going the way I did. I got a quote for a new housing and axles which was going to be about $2300, I cant remember how much a center was going to be exactly but I recall a new one with a good lsd was another 2-2.5k or thereabouts, and that was without a brake setup. So around 5k?
The 8.8 wasn't as cheap as I thought it was going to be but it was less. These are approximate prices but pretty close to what I've spent
$500 for the whole diff including brakes from a wrecker
$900 for rebuild parts, ring and pinion etc
$900 for housing mods and rebuild
$200 new discs and brake pads
$150 for another short axle and some better spider gears
$150 Fancy diff cover
$100 spring pads, paint, brake pipes etc
So around $3k ready to go
This is the first time I've added it up so I guess time will tell if it is an economic win or not
similar reason why I decided to be bloody minded and use a hilux. considered 8.8 but for a fox body with the factory triangulated 4 link the upper mounts need to be on the sides of the centre housing. only the factory mustang 8.8 has those cast in and welding some onto the explorer section didnt seem like taht greatest idea v.s. welding onto a hilux housing. getting a mustang housing in nz is costly.
/hindsight should have sacked up and bought a 9"
On 20/10/2019 at 00:38, cletus said:I've been pleasantly surprised at how well the bw diff in my vg has survived
All I've ever had to do was replace an axle with a twisted spline and it's done a million burnouts and a lot of drag racing. I pulled it apart once to check it and it was fine
25 spline axles, 2.92 ratio, 4 spider lsd with some extra preload
auto and 2.92 ratio ftw - bigger stronger pinion, and less torque load on axles / torque sponge to absorb shock loadings
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some isuzus run a Dana 44 of some description too. need to identify exactly what diff you have plus what ratio, as some diffs have different carriers for different ratios too. then you can probably find parts online/ebay/rockauto/etc/etc/match something up. diffs are something where most manufacturers do not reinvent the wheel very often so usually alot of interchangeability/they use someones elses design heaps.
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I have some bacho ones with the 4 sizes on each wrench as well and reversing switch. I liked them esp as you had multiple sizes in your hand was pretty useful in some cases but sometimes the switch was annoying and would get flicked rubbing on something when you didnt want it and you would smash your knuckles. at some point the reversing switch fell out of the 16/17/18/19 spanner, hence buying the gearwrench set. there is another story about trying to get the broken spanner warrantied that basically goes shit shops run by barrys are shit.
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On 13/10/2019 at 21:41, 00quattro00 said:
Any recommendations for a set of ratchet ring spanners? 10-19mm would do and also whats the best deal on a trolley jack?
On 13/10/2019 at 22:27, Hemi said:Gearwrench is the usual go to for me. tbh id buy whatever is the easiet to get product support from.
look on amazon - I got a 8-24mm gearwrench set there for $130nzd recently - 75% off!
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On 07/10/2019 at 13:17, Ashkellybarr said:
Think 2.5” would be to small for a 2.4L turbo with 10:1 comp and high rpm?
TBH with that setup id even be looking at 3.5" for at least the front section
does depend how much hps and rpms you are talking though. and how much you value the free hps and quicker spool less backpressure nets you.
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really depends on the situation
if you can connect the 3ph at the pole/box adjacent to your property alot less than if you need to run cables for some distance. cost me about $6k with the tx at the end of my driveway, but I know of others who had costs of tens of thousands to get a cable run some distance.
a convertor is maybe marginally cheaper(~4-5knzd?) but they can have their downsides as well, less efficiency, less power capacity overall. If you were only looking at a hoist ,a brand new single phase hoist would be cheaper.
tbh after a friend bought a 2nd hand hoist in this same situation - and ended up swapping the motor to a single phase one and then having all sorts of issues, I really would rather pay the relatively small extra cost for a brand new hosit unless you had some really crazy deal on hand.
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Cherry GS100701 is the usual one have used on a few projects with good success. they are nice because you can adjust the gap with the threaded body
https://nz.rs-online.com/web/p/hall-effect-sensors/7659321/
you can find them a little cheaper from overseas maybe. or you might find an equivalent on aliexpress for less.
that said you might be able to scrounge or buy an OEM style one from an efi car that uses a geartooth type crank position sensor.
e.g.
the only thing is you will need to get the datasheet info to find out if you need to put any resistors in the wiring to get it to suit the ecu - you do need to do that with the cherry sensors but it is listed in the documentation what resistance value to use. with an OEM sensor you may or may not - something you would have to figure out.
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may need to consider increasing the chamfer on the wheels transition from mounting face to hub bore so the spacer has enough meat, or consider steel rather than aluminium if its very thin
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Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt
in Tech Talk
Posted
hmmm
even with encoders normal plcs wont actually record the data reliably at that data rate from what I know. although maybe im just used to different plcs that are slower for reasons of systems compatability and reliability. anytime we need to measure stuff in ms its always with a standalone recorder/datalogger thigns like circuit breaker close times, stop valve close times, shaft vibrations/orbits on journal bearings.
talking at speeds like that alot of things could make a difference like the glue as said, even just ambient temps, wear of moving parts etc. I would think you would want to have a fair bit of headroom in the machine speed to account for that if reliability/unattended operation is pretty important. so maybe the listed speed difference between the options isnt really a big deal? chose the one that ticks other boxes best?
also one of them listing a higher speed but will only do that for 100 hours continuous or something where the one thats listed slower max actually will run at the speed for 10,000hours?