Testament

On 04/04/2021 at 08:21, holdenman said:

 I assume like others they mix and match pinion with different crown wheels to achieve various ratios, I am sure someone will know more and help not just you but me as well.

 

no a pinion gear and crown gear/ring gear in a hypoid/spiral bevel gearset are a matched set. you can have a pinion gear with the same number of teeth as another for a different ratio and they wont match as the geometry is different (the angle on the spiral will be different). then ontop of that they are matched to fit each other closely to minimise shims/adjustments required as well was being the correct geometry.

tl;dr

e.g. a 9 tooth pinion from a  37/9 (4.11) set wont properly fit with a 41/9 (4.56) ring gear

and you shouldn't mix and match pinions and ring gears from separate diffs. it might work if you are in deepest africa and have no other choice - but its not correct, and you will probably have a bad time trying to setup the gears correctly to last and take high loads without failing.

if thats no joy - most of my rockauto orders this year have turned up the following week, it's really been quite amazing how quick the shipping has been just with the regular cheap shipping not choosing ups overnight from japan.

getting quite off topic now, but anglia4 opened the wormcan

generally for the fox you lower the car ~50mm and fit something like this which moves the arms up and forward

also note how ridiculously short they are   - good for 7's on "stock suspension"

1 hour ago, anglia4 said:

The brilliance of triangulated 4 links is also present in the magnificent fox mustang chassis.

it is the best of the best.

the closer to the axle centerline the higher the forces on the arms to resist axle torque, I think the distance between them is more just in terms of getting the angles for the geometry you want and fitting in the space available.

the IC is the location the force is acting on the chassis when you account for the push/pull of the top and bottom links - as you implied it is where the ladder bar would be attached to the chassis if it was a ladder bar.

travel is not too bad

for starters you know the rear weight within reason is probably around 200kg/corner +/- 50kg  droop can only be weight  x spring rate unless you have progressive or additional keeper springs  uptravel is probably limited by diff or driveshaft hitting the floor. Check the NZCC but I think its something like 50mm up and down minimum, and well you probably wouldnt want any less for curvy road enjoyment anyway.

3 link  vs 4 link? any opinions/experiences?  I have heard of racing guys removing a top link from a 4 link to help traction alledgedly. seems dubious to me and maybe just a barry story someone did this and the car was fast so that must be the thing to do........ and well you would need to make the remaining link stronger since you at least double the load on it........

I know in 4x4 circles 3link+panhard flexes better than 4link+ panhard but alot of that is really more about packaging (for solid front axles) than the difference really being material to performance.

Why the change from the ladder bar?

squat doesnt actually create grip, its actually reducing force between the tyre and the ground - body moving down is force NOT going into the ground, it depends on the car and the tyres whether thats preferable to having the car separate (body lift up). ideally neither happens, most of the time squat/separation is just an artifact of working within limitations of factory suspension geometry and chassis.

if the arms are the same length and parallel you get no pinion angle change, which is nice but not essential - very few factory cars are like that and they work fine. and probably with your car you arent going to have as much suspension travel as a rally spec escort where pinion angle change may be more of a factor.

having the bottom arm close to parallel is best as its the one that is pushing the car forward. I think you are probably on the right track as what you describe is pretty similar to most factory 4 links I have seen. you might find you need to make the top link shorter or with more angle down and drop the bottom arm a tiny bit at the diff to get the IC back to nearer the center of the car.

I know you arent trying to make a drag car but as a point of reference

typically "stock suspension" streetcar base stuff aims for IC 200mm-300mm off the ground  500mm to 1000mm in front of the rear axle centreline, or further infront  as power increases 1000hp+/1400+kg vehicles.

closer to the rear axle will hit the rear tyres harder more quickly (better for less power), but unload more quickly, longer reduces the leverage (less wheelies) and if you have ridiculous power/torque you can still get plenty of force on the tyres.

TLDR;

Shorter top arm is ok if needed, try to bring the IC back inside the wheelbase somewhere while keeping the bottom arm close to parallel. but dont agonise over it too much if you can keep some  adjustablity at one end or the other of top and bottom arms.

While power is good in a 4x4 it is really miles behind traction and clearance in importance as it does nothing when you are sitting on the diffs

Are you thinking mild adventure, drive down a beach/gravel roads and easy tracks

or serious 4x4 tracks get suck in a bog on your roof stuff

in the first case, the most aggressive tyres your ears can handle but in a size that fits so usually 31-33" on most things

in the second case get the tallest most aggressive tyres you care to pay for and cut/lift until they fit

in either case rear diff lock is really really FTW. limited slips just don't really cut in off road, they are only marginally better than open diffs. modern stuff with individual wheel brakey tricks does work pretty good too.

If you plan on adventuring solo a winch is strongly recommended although picks, spades, ratchet straps and tirfers have saved many days when it comes to it.

all that said if you just want more power so it chooches hard, fair enough go for gold .

TLDR;

Get a rear Diff Lock

TBH in this country if you want 4x4 it would probably be better to stick with the toyota trans. an A340 with a shift kit/valvebody or shimmed solenoids should be adequate. may want a custom convertor to suit the motor if you are changing cams or going turbo etc.  probably easier this way esp  if you can leave the gearbox and transfer case in the factory toyota positions, factory driveshafts etc.

I dont know but imagine you can buy adapters to go ls1 to a340 from aussie if not locally marks adapters/castlemaine etc.

You can get a multitude of different factory and aftermarket sumps for the ls1 other than the commodore ones, I would look into that in regards to crossmember and diff clearance at full suspension compression

ah ture brand spankers

are only certs after a certain date online there? I look mine up and no bueno

On 17/02/2021 at 09:57, sheepers said:

something to remember when going from a road tire to a semi slick is that they are generally wider for the same size. so if your mm away with your current tires then it would pay to check fitment before comitting to buying whatever tire you end up with. 

defo this

R888 225/45/14 are actually about 245mm wide, I don't imagine 15's would be much different

On 17/02/2021 at 09:37, zep said:

My new engine build is likely to have close to 400rwhp in a car that's sub 1000kg. I'm a bit concerned with gaining traction. My rims are 15x7, not looking to change these any time soon.

It's been suggested that I go for 225s and there are a number of options, although they are all semi-slicks - except the Proxes R1R which are very expensive. As this is 99% a street car, should I be worried about them not getting hot enough, and/or issues driving when the road is wet? The next size option (really) are 205s, which are significantly smaller but offer a tonne more "high performance" "road" varieties. Am I better off with wider semi slicks or thinner high performance road tires?

Below are the options I've gathered in the 225 range.

 

Tire	Type	Size	Rating	Wear	Trac	Temp	Price NZ
NEXEN NFERA SUR4G	SS	225/45	87W	200	A	A	$264
NANKANG AR1 MOTORSPORT	SS	225/45	87W	80	AA	A	$294
Toyo Proxes R888R	SS	225/45	87W	100	AA	A	$399
Toyo Proxes R1R	Road	225/45	87W	200	A	A	$512
NITTO NT01	SS	225/45	87W	100	AA	A	$334
Yokohama A048	SS	225/50	91V	60	B	A	$285
Kumho KU25 Ecsta AST	Road	225/50	91H	400	A	A	$279

 

What do ya'll think?

in similar size/weight car Can confirm 225  R888's have enough traction to break axles no issues in the wet with normal driving, although not with anywhere near that much power.

I don't think you would go wrong with any of those options really, if your not dailying it tyre wear isnt really going to be an issue.

the detractors might be sidewall stiffness - the semis are much stiffer in my experience so not as comfortable as a road tyre typically, and probably noisier.

I don't imagine either of those is a huge consideration though?

On 06/12/2019 at 12:42, Vintage Grumble said:

I think we did this for like 4 or 5 years in a row? I think it died out due to lack of interest and too many other OS events going on. There was talk of incorporating it into bike nats or whatever it was called, but that's also died out I think.

Some people almost dying, flogged engines getting to the end. Knuckles of white. Dirt track kinda mucked it up a bit bit too. Not saying dirt is bad, just quite a few of the bikes weren't made for that kind of rough rydin and didn't really work there.

On 06/12/2019 at 14:01, johnnyfive said:

I think everyone bought actual small motorbikes and now drive them around on the road.

Life and new pursuits etc.

Wonder if a velo could make it around the cape?

On 06/01/2020 at 19:27, Roman said:

It seemed like the drome racing started out timid but then it escalated and it got to the point where there were just super fast and dangerous bikes that no one was keen to try one-up. haha.
 

I think 1 or two cracked the ton in a straight line and quite a few were able to hit 70+ on the drome

On 14/02/2020 at 07:41, Vintage Grumble said:

Velo racing was neat, but to be honest, I enjoyed the paddock racing at Sams waaaaaaaaaaay more. 

There was something special about there actually being a race. and of a length that most bikes or riders would fail before the end, so Just running to the finish was quite an accomplishment. Heck even making it to half way was doing well really.

I'm not sure whats worse, the guaranteed end of the rope in the eye from rope pull start, or whatever happens when the rockdrill starter with more power than the bike gets away on you.........

By late model I mean 1981 Fiat 124 spider, not 2018 or whatever new ones are

Probably late model 124 spider listing for alternator. There are a few different pulley offsets so you might need to swap that from your old alternator.

Can't recall what shipping was like.

If places have silly shipping or wouldn't ship to nz I've used youshop plenty of times.

On 07/04/2020 at 20:36, azzurro said:

The last blurry photo looks like the elecrtomagnetic fan power supply thing. The spring presses a carbon bush aganst the back of the fan and when the temp sensor comes on it locks the fan on. 

I have a few of those points style regulators, on my lockup. i think @Testament is still rocking his? The solid state lada ones are a plugin replacement. I hid mine in a gutted points box so looks are the same

nope fucked that off some time ago. I think I got a new internal reg altenator frorm rockauto

On 07/04/2020 at 22:02, azzurro said:

I have no complaints about Ladapower.com , but beware the cheap versions are usually *really* shitty

Shipping vs price ratio always makes adding extra bits worthwhile.

Plus sometimes get a lada calendar, pen and ukraine chocolates.

Ive also used

Mrfiat.com

Mal

euro-italian in albany 

 

There is a lot of crossover between lada and 125 as well, so start in the 2101 section

you have bought from mrfiat.com?

I almost bought some stuff from there but got cold feet it seemed like a scam website or something

+1 for gavin at euro italian being awesome for local parts, just bonus normal chocolates, not ukrainian choclates though

have used rockauto, auto ricambi, midwest bayliss, vickauto

acetone? mek?

Yeah hammering bad. Mild controlled heat maybe ok but rubber/plastic seals kinda limits that to maybe 80c . If no seals you can go a little bit hotter but you don't want to start smoking the grease/oil

if you put it back together with the same crush spacer you have to do it up just a liiiittle bit more. basically still to the same torque value, which is usually hooven tight.

If you feel that you have gone much past the point it was previously done up to by much its just deforming the crush spacer more and more and thats not what you want. tight enough that its only just starting to deform it again.

its not the right way to do it,  but i've done it before in  a pinch and the axle shaft broke well before the ring and pinion had a problem. but grain of salt /yrmv etc.

I have a pumped system on the fiat but it's general other shit running issues precluded seeing any benefit from it to date, will have to see if sequential injection solves the other issues and report back. That said it depends how its tuned. if you tune it so its fine without the water injection then no big worries. also put a low level switch/warning ideally.

basically the WI should lower the IAT so the ecu should know to retard timing/reduce boost etc. when IAT = too high

another option with WI for simplicity is using an air atomising nozzle and boost pressurised tank so theres no pump to fail. you bleed boost off the compressor to push the water out of the tank, and in the nozzle a second supply of air bleed is used to atomise the liquid which is then injected upstream of the compressor - this makes the air denser and increases the mass flow rate of the compressor so you can use a slightly smaller compressor wheel for a given flowrate/power level.

Air to air is certainly the least fuss to live with but none of the issues with WI are thaaaaat big of a deal if it's actually put together well. You can have the same kind of issues with your main fuel injectors or fuel pump blocking up or stoping working.