Testament

sweet dude time for teh big boost!

thanks for the help... could be tricky finding whitworth bolts

Nah it's easy enough to get whitworth stuff, any good engineering shop should be able to source some from a bolt shop. or just goto the bolt shop e.g. the boltholder in matamata

and where would you put it duuude???? finish the turbolazers, construct your deathstar and boost up the sedan first eh. then go find another bannanananabrotary

to paeroa but take old tauranga road instead of going through waihi isn't too hilly really

I think you would have some trouble with getting a cert going to bent links like that, it makes the arms a whole heap weaker. I would be looking at the mounting points on the diff and the chassis.

30deg. is wrong, it should definitely be 10deg.

The cam timing is easy, there is a dot on each camwheel, these need to line up with the points on the camboxes/and or steel cam timing pointer bolted to the thermostat housing. Also you MUST have the aux. shaft wheel in the right position, the dot at approximately one thirty from memory. otherwise the fuel pump cam on the end of the shaft will hit no. 2 connecting rod.

Also remember they are timed up with no. 4 firing

What I usually do for finding TDC is take out a spark plug (cyl 1 or 4) and put a long screwdriver or piece of wire down and then slowly turn the crank watching it go up until it starts going down then go back to the mid point of the dwell at TDC.

we used some blue stuff on the 7 and I think thats the stuff that blew its load on the track

yeah it totally was

not 4age, use this motor - bolts in, is based on the lampredi SOHC engine

http://www.netikka.net/ville.vieri/marea16v/eindex.htm

Props to richie for the pic tripod stz even if its the wrong wheel haha

6 pots though? i dont know fuck about trumpys apart from the usually look weird, not that i can talk

hamiltron of the dodgeyness :/

'tis mean, hs this got the 6cyl mech. injected motor?

I would run an electric pump + regulator, it's not like they are expensive. if your real skint there are tons at pick a part for $20, check the '80s euros they have the roller cell bosch pumps pretty often which are way more grunty than you would need, some are good for 200-300kW.

hirepool on dominion road was $60-$70 bucks when I got the 131, real mint trailer too

Offshore powerboats on the lake = aws, dual big block race motors sound like WW2 fighter planes

Work on 131R = boo found more rust

looks wicked dude, so what are the specs on the new motor?

oh man, has it got the klingon cyclops 1 spoke steering wheel of death?

looking sweet dude engine going to be internally standard or do you have plans for that also?

anyone? surely simple question for those who knows this stuff, tis my first time on this panel and paintage stuff.

yeah Volumex = supercharger/supercharged engine/supercharged variant of the Lancia Beta called the Beta Volumex, or just VX

volumex engine

http://www.lancia-beta.de/motor/volumex03.gif

Beta VX coupe, and the weird looking wagon version, Beta HPE (High Performance Estate)

The pistons I'm using are are new old stock volumex ones, standard 84mm bore, the block is pretty good so will be ok with just a hone and stay at standard bore. as long as piston to bore clearance is < about 4-5thou and you have the correct ring gaps it should be ok.

105TC pistons in a 2L is pretty high compression 11.5:1 or something, you will want to do a dry build probably, and definitely if you use big cams.

Lots of bits of engine

V O L U M E X

Weber 40IDF

block still needs a hone but then should be sweet

autoclutch? i think? on morningside drive are really good - they can make up custom clutch plates and uprate pressure plates etc. too and pretty reasonable preices.

And why? really? I don't think it would make all the difference to how it looks

The front of the 131R is completely stripped at the moment, most of it is bare metal and what isnt has been given a real shitty brushed on coat of who knows what, which I will probably remove. Also it has a replacement LH guard which is orange where the rest of the car is blue.

Now I figure I will remove and weld up what rust I can get at and POR15 what i cant get at. Now is it a good thing to POR15 the wheel wells and underside? they say how hard that shit is = good against stone chips etc.? Whats the next step for the rest of the engine bay and the one guard?

bare metal areas = etch primer?

orange guard = just sand back a bit?

what about the edge between the stripped bare metal area and the rest of the car?

I dont really want to paint the whole car as its a race car and I'm not too worried about how it looks, just dont want it to rust away and it would be good if it was all one colour (or close enough).

Are the rear wheels 8" wide?

Do they have much more dish than the 7''s?

Nah they are 15x7's all around, with I think +12 offset. 15x8 performance wheels superlites would have -4 offset, so another 16mm dish.