Testament
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Posts posted by Testament
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depending on weight youshop is an option. I got a towbar from central Europe sent to the uk and forwarded here and the shipping was only about $150. The US warehouse even does oversize/weight stuff now if you apply in advance but not sure about the UK one.
this said maybe the dodgy shipping companies are doing us all a favour if they drop those pintos kents and a series in the ocean......
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kind of irrelevant but mates run a pump salvaged from a F&P dishwasher in the inorganic rubbish collection powered by a dick smith 12v to 240v inverter - this is in addition to the rover/Leyland hope and pray paddlewheel on the front the the p76 motor in their offroad Suzuki 410 - this is to get flow to the v12 jag radiator mounted in the rear door. just a manual switch on it. cooling was never a problem again after that was added. plenty of other problems though!
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these look legit
https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/16/61/Fuse_Blocks/ST_Blade
I wish I found this stuff before I re did the wiring on the fiat lol. what a mare.
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fuel line fastening query
HCTM doesn't differentiate mounting spacings for hard line vs flexible line? this seems a bit silly. like if I used the factory 5/16 hard line it has about 4 mounts each around a meter apart and that's fine because OEM, but if I run a new hard line (in larger diameter) through a different route I need mounts every 300mm? maybe there is an update I don't have?
Just seems kind of ridiculous for 1/2" stainless tubing to need supports at 300mm spacing. would probably just use flexible the whole way if I have to stick to 300mm spacing.
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dirt track inspection completed
there is grass, and bumps, and definitely bring your short track setup with high ratio gearing and midrange power tune for punch out of the three point turns
will try to make a showing and probably end up walking my bike around the track Saturday but won't make the drome on sunday this time
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it sounds like you have the fuel pump (and injector) relay switched off the key and not of the ecu as it should be (as shown in the diagram), or alternatively the relay has failed in the switched on position. in either case you should really sort that.
when its wired up correctly you key on and the ecu should power up and it will run the fuel pump for a second or so to prime the fuel rail then switch off.
but for the injector issue as alluded to there must be some path you ground on the negative side wiring of the injectors - for them to open there is power getting to them (from your relay issue) AND that power getting back to ground via some path which it shouldn't be. when its operating correctly the ground goes through the ecu and that is what it switches to control your injection. maybe have a look at how the resistors are mounted and thigns like that - its probably not a strong ground leak as if it was the injectors would be just 100% open and the car wouldn't run.
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Did you fill out the ross spec sheet form yourself? or send your specific instructions in an email or letter? did you see what the agent filled out and sent to ross?
http://www.rosspistons.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/Order-Form.pdf
my guess would be the fault is with the agent as im pretty sure ross would have required that form and made to meet that spec. But if you don't have any of those things in written form the agent could be real a dick about it if they are and old hat belligerent barry im the race parts guy and I know best kind of crowd.
the dome size is not that big of an issue but +1mm and 30% heavier than the stock piston is not really acceptable if you asked for lightweight n/a for high rpm and stock bore.
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On 9/11/2017 at 17:00, HighLUX said:
So find a Jeep 4L manual bellhousing add it to a R151 from a Surf then manual convert a XJ Cherokee for excellent on and offroad clutch kicking fun times?
that one is no so straightforward - jeep front diffs are offset to the left where hiluxes are offset to the right. I don't know if the jeep transfer case would just bolt straight to the Toyota r154. then there is also potential driveshaft length differences. so you would need to do a fair bit of research to figure out what would work. may be cheaper to just import a complete ax15 gearbox/transfer pedalbox (although that would probably need mods since LHD) from uncle sam. but reality is its probably just not worth it - people like to hate on autos but differences are more in perception and feeling rather than real world capability and performance. infact autos have quite a few benefits offroad in some respects.
On 10/11/2017 at 17:02, drftnmaz said:The new r154's available from toyota are the worst possible version of the r154, don't get one if you plan to have decent grip, we fell for that a couple years ago
+1, also keen to know what makes the newer ones worse? that is contrary to some of the information in the links above.
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more complete info which I think that stuff in the first post must have been got from. pity the link he quotes at the beginning for the original source appears to be broken
http://www.celicasupra.com/forums/showthread.php?65106-R154-motor-compatibility
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Yeah that was what got me looking at some things, it pretty much similar price between new r154 and a used t56
marlin crawler has some good info too
QuoteYes, parts are interchangeable between these trannys.
Inputs, output shafts, front nose cone, and rear housing are differance but generally can be interchanged if you stay with in the family.
There are three "R" familes;
86-91 early, simple, common, heavy design
92-95' upgraded syncrows, hubs, shift rods and linkage, smaller bearings, lighter gears
96-newer greater helix angles, upgraded syncrows, lighter bolts, reverse brake
The jeep 86-00' AX15 would use the same bearings, syncrows, and gears within the same family as the toy boxes. I am not sure of the Isuzu production years, but would also be the same.
Remember that only the 86-87' 4x4 R151F 22Rturbo got the 4.31 1st gear. 2x4 22Rturbos, got the 3.83 1st, along with all other 4x4 R trans--- Toy 3.0, 3.4 v6, jeeps, and isusu's.
The lowest geared R is the 5.15 1st gear found in the R452 inported trans which also uses the same bearings, and syncrows.
Hope this quick answer helps
MC -
Came across this in my travels across the interwebs. might be useful for someone to know the r154 matches up to quite a number of things potentially. A340 is similarly used behind a bunch of different things you probably didn't realise
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The Jeep/Dodge AX15 5-speed, the Jeep NV3550 5-speed, the Toyota R150F & R151F, the 87-92 Toyota Supra Turbo R154, the Isuzu AR5 and the Chevy Colorado\ GMC Canyon MA5 5-speeds all share the same case to bellhousing bolt pattern. As such there are a number of possibilities that can be had when a 5-speed is desired:
#1. Novak Enterprises: Adapter plate for AX15 to GM 4-speed bellhousing. Connects all except NV3550 to same.
#2. 94-95 Dakota 2.5L bellhousing: Connects all to any K car based 2.2L-2.5L L4 in a RWD application.
#3. 96-00 Dakota 2.5L bellhousing: Connects all to any Jeep 2.5L L4. Because of it's GM 60 degree V6 inherited bolt pattern, also works with any Buick FWD V6 and supercharged V6, any Chevrolet 2.8/3.1/3.4 V6, any Cadillac 4.1/4.5/4.9 V8 and with a minor modification, any Olds Aurora DOHC V8 and Cadillac DOHC Northstar V8. Also bolts to any Isuzu 3.2\3.5 DOHC V6.
#4. 88-99 Jeep 4.0L L6 bellhousing: Connects all to any AMC 290/304/343/360/390/401 V8 and any 72 and later 232 L6 and 258 L6.
#5. 94-99 Dakota 3.9L V6 Bellhousing: Connects all to any 3.9L V6 and any 273/318/340/360 V8.
#6. 96-04 Toyota Tacoma 3.4L V6.
#7. 86.5-92 7M-GTE
Not shown:
01-03 Jeep Liberty 3.7L V6 bellhousing: Connects all to any 3.7L V6, 4.7L V8 and 5.7L Hemi V8.
Isuzu Trooper 3.5 V6 AR5 bellhousing: Connects all to any Isuzu 3.2\3.5 V6
04 Chevy Colorado\ GMC Canyon MA5 bellhousing: Connects all to any 2.8L L4, 3.5L L5 and 4.2L L6
Aftermarket:
Advance Adapters: Bellhousing for AX15 to Chevrolet-Buick-Olds-Pontiac V8 and Buick V6. Connects all to same.
Advance Adapters: Adapter plate for AX15 to Ford bellhousing. Connects all to same. Also they have a plate for the NV3550 to do the same.
Suzuki Only Supply: Adapter plate to bolt R series to Suzuki 1.3\1.6.
Further info: Jeep AX5, Toyota G52, G58, W55, W56, W57 and W58 5-speeds all share a common face pattern on the case. As such, any 88-99 Jeep 2.5L bellhousing (NOT Dakota) will bolt a Toyota W series transmission to a 60 degree GM bolt pattern.
Aftermarket: Advance Adapters makes a bellhousing to bolt a W series Toyota trans to a Chevy-Buick-Olds-Pontiac block.
Northwest Off Road: Bellhousing to bolt W series to Ford 5.0.
Suzuki Only Supply: Adapter plate to bolt W series to Suzuki 1.3\1.6.
NOTE: Input shafts lengths vary.
Pre 1995 R150\R151 = 6.5"
1995 up Toyota R series = 7.5"
AX15 = 7.5"
87-92 Turbo Supra R154 = 7.25"
AR5 = ?
MA5 = ?
NV3550 = 7.5"
AX5 = 7.5"
Toyota W series = 6.5"
Advance Adapters makes an extra long pilot bearing when using a shorter input shaft tranny with a bellhousing that had a longer one. Obviously you can't put the longer input trans into a bell that had a shorter one.
Front bearing covers are interchangeable between the R series, AX15 and AR5. NV3550, AX5 and W series are not interchangeable.
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sure its not chevrolet engine red?
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just ask yourself, what would pwestonlmvd do?
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because barrier roads are sweet for hooning
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1 hour ago, sheepers said:
hes not that great tbh.......
I hear he picked up a case of swine flu a while back ?
pic for minimafia
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VSS signals? any pro or con to having more or less pulses per rev? the hubs I have for the drag car have abs tone rings I could use as is, or I could cut them down to a smaller number of teeth if I had to. planning to use something there plus some sensor picking up the bolts on the diff head flange or something like that to enable speed based power management/launch control/traction control.
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On 27/10/2017 at 20:57, nickrock said:
That a bigger cause I got a 304 and trans sitting under the bench
It comes with a fully rebuilt auto that works like a AMT would a injected Chevy be ok with out a re cert
On 27/10/2017 at 21:00, cletus said:Basically if anything doesn't match whats on the cert plate, it will need re certification.
having to recert isn't the end of the world. I think people are more scared of it than they should be. but maybe selling your 304 and buying a chev would not be all that different cost wise and less work to do.
if you want to tweak things more later I would definitely be considering chev, more stuff available etc.
but maybe you prefer the sound of the holden motor, or just would like to have a holden with a holden motor?
basically you just have to decide what you want, neither is right or wrong.
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much jiggery and pokery and measuring all of the things with the axle at different heights to check and recheck what length to make the arms to have enough adjustment as mentioned previously and not have the axle hitting c notch before bottoming out on bumpstops. which i ensmallend as I could tell that was going to happen anyway......
then in a burst of motivation following sunday night tacos i threw the front suspension back in to get it on the ground.
so on bumps rolls easy and nothing rubbing or touching. will put some blocks under it tomorrow to set it at ride height to sort pinion angle stuff and maybe drop the motor and gearbag in to measure for driveshaft
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what about seam sealer?
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put shocks and original lower arms in so i could position things to figure out length of upper links. cant test with the original uppers because changing from the clevis type attachment with bush in the diff to a rod end. found diff flange hitting floor so cut out that bit of the tunnel
sketched things up to avoid fuckups since the 4130 tube is not for the wasting, and need to ensure rod ends have 1.5 diameters of thread engagement. This means even with things being adjustable you still only have about +/-8mm which isnt a huge amount when split between needing some part of that to square the rear axle, some amount to set the pinion angle and some amount to set the fore/aft position of the wheels in the wheel tub.
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keen for 130 sedan or coupe, full 1970s mafia spec
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next installment.... probably cutting out the driveshaft tunnel
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Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt
in Tech Talk
Posted
don't have any showing whats inside I can easily find but its a real pickapart special. rover bw35 trans, old Datsun transfer case, hilux diffs, seats from a Honda city and yes that's one bank of the exhaust going across the bottom of the windscreen to the other side because there is no room past the steering box
when it was going it went great/goes hard for what it is