Testament

On 01/07/2022 at 09:49, VintageSpecial said:

Yep, schemes like that would get rid of cars before they get a chance to become classics I guess. But then again are modern cars likely to be viable as classics in years to come? They are built more like appliances to be replaced these days than machines to be maintained.

I dunno, more modern cars are actually made better in alot of ways, way better quality control in many cases. multi point fuel injection and electronic ignition have to be one of the best longevity things for vehicles ever. You put the key in and it works, it doesnt run rich or lean its just right always drives 300,000km and asks for more. yes interior plastics are prone to failing but some of that can be 3d printed and often alot more car were made of each model. and really thats still a probelm for older cars too.  The skills needed to keep a more modern car running are a bit different, but I dont see it being that big of a barrier in the scheme of things thought. hardly difficult at all compared to some of the rust restorations that get taken on with old cars.

On 21/06/2022 at 23:06, cletus said:

Electric fans. 

Anyone have good or bad experience with decent brand ones?  

Spal, Davies Craig, derale etc

I've got 2x 10" fans on my car but they don't have enough flow to cool it. They were $80 cheapy ones that were meant to be 850cfm or something 

 

I'm hoping some better ones plus a shroud might fix my problem but I'd like to get experience from others as the 'good' fans are quite expensive (around $250 each) 

I can fit 2x11" fans which spal make if I offset them the right way. I'm stuck with 2 smaller fans as there's not enough room for a big single fan 

 

The alternative is go to a mechanical flex fan and make a shroud to suit but I'd rather have electric 

My fan/radiator sharn - stock copper rad and stock 1974 Fiat Magnetti Marelli electric fan > RX3 aftermarket radiator and spal fan mounted as a pusher fan in front of the radiator.

so pretty much same story as everyone else, factory fans are was better than any normal aftermarket stuff ive seen.

the depth constraint, is it all across the radiator or just in a few areas? some factory fans are only thick in the center where the motor is so if you can offset so the motor clears?

Good work, wholeheartedly approve pulling everything apart and putting it in boxes and piles in multiple locations to ensure forgetting where they go. I'm pretty sure you can make the bakery window without stripping it to a bare shell though so maybe the pies will still be warm when you get there.

I don't know anything much about r32/gtr stuff other than the average owner now appears to be an Aussie drug dealer that goes through an engblock per drag event - and but check out kiwiCNC on Instagram guy in pukekohe that makes some hektick cnc gtr gearbox stuff. Probably justifyably hektikly expensive given how many hours probably go into them, but can be filed with the dct dreams.

On 03/06/2022 at 08:08, yoeddynz said:

Oh if you're talking long trips, especially with motorways spec driving, it's into the low 5s. I'm sure a tiida spec driver could get into the 4s 

you must have different tiida drivers in the south island. in the north island they pass you on two wheels at 140kph around blind corners and leave transit vans in their dust

^  whine and dine its the winning combination. 

a few belts and bearings is barely a minor inconvienience   /this is the way

in nz I think there is a crowd in wellington, howard engineering? or something like that? maybe some others?

but probably cheaper/easier to order from strange/moser/currie/etc in the usa  as its their bread and butter for drag racing/hot rod/4x4 critters making custom stuff

you need to have all the details, spilne type and count, bearing size and part number, all those hub and pcd dimensions. but you would need most of that anyway even if you are modifiying a factory hilux axle.

On 02/12/2021 at 18:16, zep said:

*groan*

I wonder then, either my axles have less material on the gusset, it's been machined down to fit the disc, or the disc has been machined out to fit - or a combo of all of this. Need to pull it apart and look.

This is starting to feel too hard! Maybe I should just shell out for the full floating kit.

Why not just buy custom axles ?  they aren't that expensive when you consider all this faffing we are discussing - none of that is cheap either. the benefits of bolting into what you already have, and having the right stud pattern, offsets, hub/disc centring dimensions is very attractive.

and then they are new, not out of a 400,000+km hiluxace thats been burnouted over kerbs for 25 years

did noodles trump peaches?

AliExpress

On 31/07/2021 at 08:31, yetchh said:

Wouldn't fairly severe vibration work too? Or more ultrasonic spec. 

 

it might, but throwing things on the ground is cathartic and also satisfies the lazyness quotient

On 31/07/2021 at 08:31, yetchh said:

Wouldn't fairly severe vibration work too? Or more ultrasonic spec. 

 

mostly lazyness

Dropping them flat on the ground to rattle some the sulphur? off the plates just as hard as you can without busting the plastic case and spilling battery acid everywhere (who would guess that could happen) then putting them on a battery charger with pulse/maintenance mode/one of those^ things sometimes works

Quote

Why scrap a vehicle?

Vehicles reach a point where their running costs are more expensive than replacing the vehicle. Typically, this happens when a vehicle reaches 16 years of age.

10 hours ago, chasinthemirage said:

Semi ling but not really worth starting a thread, has anyone mucked around with the Holden 3.8 motors? Pretty keen on another fun car but priced out of VL's, VN SS' etc. Seen a few people in Aussie with turbo 3.8's, anyone done it? Just want a fun street car that I could do the odd skid in/take to the drags occasionally. Thinking 255's, LSD and a turbo (just want it to do hektik doses tbh). Sound plausible or nah? Also inb4 V6's are yuck.

definitely plausible. check out nugget garage and cornfedboost on youtube, plus google performanceforums for v6 holden stuff

its certainly doable. BA falcon with barra would be better? but in reality really better doesnt matter as long as it doses and skids to your satisfaction

moo is still going to moo though

also I would note you need to put as much thought into the gearbag/diff holding and putting down the power as the turbo stuff. autos can usually hold the power and put it down but may need some fettling of electronics or valvebody type stuff depending on the box.

I use a drum with some water in the bottom as a pre filter, the inlet from the cabinet goes down almost to the water level with the idea being the dust gets caught in the water as it flies down into the vessel out of the inlet pipe. seems to work ok my free vacuum hasnt died yet and almost no dust comes out of the vacuum outlet which I pipe to outside.

12 hours ago, cletus said:

I had a couple of cars in today so put cardboard on them where a flap would be required under the proposed rule  

 

Other solution would be to add more slam?

if the camaro was 8 inches lower it would comply?

the way they have demonstrated it looks like they mean it applies to hot rods with exposed suspensions

On 22/06/2021 at 22:38, kpr said:

So  bigport head vs smallport

The smallport head has bit less work and 10 year ago me porting.  so at a disadvantage.   I think it will have a little bit  in it over the bigport if same same.   But pretty interesting  to see how close they are all the way through.   same bolt-ons & cams.

 

valve sizes are the same yeah? so limiting factor = valve curtain area and valve seat diameter rather than port/chamber/etc.?

There's quite a few jeep aw4 (jeep version of an 340) manaul controllers around as well if the solenoids are similar setup?

E.g.

http://www.radesignsproducts.com/rail-controller.html

DR Big

chain is ok usually too , a  size you can get a 10mm or 12mm bolt through is going to be plenty strong usually. just make sure if you are bolting it on you have it so the bolt is not under a bending load.

https://blog.uscargocontrol.com/working-load-limits-chain/

even noodle spec 6mm links are ok for ~500kg

probably thought of all these things already but the usual things from industrial machinery issues

• bent output shaft whirling around damaging seal (seems unlikely with no vibes)
• undersize output shaft OD for seal (pretty unlikely with new from toyota but not impossible)
• tailhousing bush not aligned with output shaft inner bearing so shaft is not central to seal bore
• axial movement of shaft in operation resulting in wrong diameter bit of shaft running on seal

any seal marks/wear on the shaft?