kpr

yeh they are growing on me. thinking of getting some of these for it in 15x7

the diff and hub work done to it, means it can only use fwd offset. so oldshool dished rims arent gonna happen.

the lip is off a mates ep71 si. that he left at my house too long,

sweet, i used the die and press method to make mine. took awhile to get the tool right

the 4a had a blowen headgasket, couldnt help myself and done some back yard headwork while head was off. removed the material shelding the valves and made a raduis down to the vavles insted of the step (not showen in the pic) dunno if it made it faster or slower.

thinking about buying some new rims, since the ones on there are pretty rough. threw the 16's off my other car on, to see what width and offset is going to fit. actually look alright but want some 15's

from eveything ive read, a bigger raduis is better. to a point of course. flush mounted bell mouths are spose to best. since most of the air is drawn in from the sides.

heres some interesting pics of flow into tubes:

stolen from : http://forums.fastfours.com.au/viewtopi ... ake+tuning

runner lengths make a huge diffrence as well.

bring on the e85 i say. i dont mind converting my fuel system, for 105octane out of the pump.

i gotta pull my diff apart soon, will measure the axles when its in bits

all good hilux diffs come from hick towns, or dodgy car dumps. i made 100 bucks from my hilux conversion after scoring 2 of them from the car dump. and selling one

some of them you can trim the ends off the axles and just shorten the case if needed. as theres extra spine up the shafts. think i got about 20mm each side on mine

non toyota one? toyota ones suck anyway.

heres the bits you wont get from downloading the manual. the colours could be diffrent tho. so be carefull there

yeh will run fine on map only. tps is only used for a few things on the old lems. idle control and stuff. nothing to do with the tune itself, unless your running tps only. or tps+map. map only will be the best mode for a 4agte. unless you have big cams.

1 - 2 ohm on each drive, at least 25w.

i use 1ohm 50w per drive on my old link plus. 50w ones will heat up less than 25w ones. should be able to get then from jaycar and the likes cheaper, than from link.

the few autometer guages ive used, have seemed to read low as well. at least 1psi.

yeh it dies pretty quick up top if set on the long lenght. and its more of a sack at lower revs than usual if they are at the short lenghth.

can see the change in air/fuel ratio as well when tuning it. gets rich spots if the runners are disabled

they need to follow rpm, as the frequency of the pressure waves change at diffrent rpm. but arent effected much by manifold pressure.

hah yeh complicated enough as it is. have been times when setting it up where i felt like ripping it all off, and throwing my test trumpets back on, becuse they look cooler

wiper is on a cam setup. so the runners cycle. the micro switchs you can see. tell the link if they are at the top, or the bottom. link just turns the wiper motor on, if they are in the wrong place for the rpm the engine is at. till the right micro switch is switched.

its set on normal wiper speed i had it on fast to start with. but it would overshoot. since the wipermotor takes a littlewhile to stop. it actually works better going a bit slower anyway. as in the lower gears it acts kinda like a full variable setup. higher gears it sound like vtec (yeh gay) nar just changes note a bit

thats kinda where i got the idea. would be sweet to have fully variable. but would suck to setup. plus theres not enough room in the kp to give them enough travel

rear supsension is finished, handles way better than the old setup.

trimed some holes in the air duct and put the strut bar back on.

another pic of the variable runner setup. in the high rpm stage. the link switchs them at 5500rpm. they are powered by a kp windscreen wiper motor.

low

done some more on the rear suspensoin setup. spherical bearings in the top, and some excessive bracing:

just need to weld some new mounts on the diff, and its done.

how about an expansion chamber off say a 80cc motorcross bike, on each cylinder. tripple 3/4" pipes firing out the the side

made the mold out of 10mm mdf and bog. painted it and waxed it so the fiberglass wouldnt stick. i have some picture some where if you want to see, looks a bit rangi be done the trick

had a panel filter that i pinched from my old man's holden in there, didnt seem to make much diffrence to the noise. might be a bit quiter when the top is sealed off a bit better tho.

sweet.

got the rest of the parts for the rear coil overs today, should get most of it done this weekend.

I like the cold air intake. Should work pretty well. Do you mind if I steal the idea?

yeh all good. i still have to finish it actually. the big hole in the front is cut out for a panel filter. then was going to make another duct, so the air is forced up thru the filter. but cant be assed at the moment. will put some type of rubber seal around the top, so it kinda seals off on the bonnet too. works good as it is though

discussion thread:

picked it up a few years back. as an unfinished project, had a 20v 4age sitting in the engine bay, a pile of parts in the back, and looking pretty rough. heres what it looked like after i picked it up: 

after closer inspection , turns out the 20v was rooted. so it was binned and replace with a 16valve smallport:

at the same time the engine mounts were redone and gearbox mounted. then a hilux diff, sourced from a local car dump, was modified and installed along with ae92 brakes. king springs and shorter kyb shocks, went in the front. the rear got shortened stock shocks and some cut nissan sunny front springs. 2" stainless exhaust was made from 2nd hand stainless complemets of fonterra. the coby extractors were choped up, and modified with old exhausts from the car dump. made into a much better 4-2-1 set. along the way when i could be assed, some of the rust was fixed.

this is where the project slowed right down, since panel work sucks. but with car running and driveable it. various panels missing and doors that wouldnt shut. it made for some amusing late night country road driving. 2 seats a steering wheel and an engine was enough.

finally after a few years pissing around and bitching at the bro to paint it, it had a new coat of paint:

the plan was to finish putting to together, then go for a cert. till i decided it needed some quad throttles. deciding to do something a bit diffrent, a varible runner setup was made. along with fiberglass duct/airbox, new radiator installed, stock ecu was replace with a lem g3, and tuned:

car was booked in for a cert, but cert guy canceled. at the same time i wasnt too happy with the suspension setup. so had yet another stupid idea to do a coil over setup front and maybe rear. front setup was first, along with choped up ep82 camber plates and some rca's:

with that complete. i currently have some 100mm holes, cut in place of the original rear shock mounts, and some 100mm tube sitting in place for the rear setup, more to come.. :