kpr

wouldnt think the plugs or leads would do it. as you'l get a noticeable misfire, to make it loose that much power. could be a fuel issue, filter or dying fuel pump.

could try some 98 in it or retard the base timing. to rule out knock

yeh, it'l be retarding the timing for some reason, detecting knock or somthing. or the sensor or wiring is bung. what fuel has it got in it?

check the error codes

if you've been welding shit to the tank. you may as well cut the bottom out of it around the pick up. weld some baffles onto the bit you cut out, then weld it back in. done this to the kp, has never surged. even when the tank is near empty

been awhile since i updated this.

first up i got a supra lsd from spencer (cheers boe) to replace the hilux one. witch wasnt much better than an open diff. fitted it into a 4.3 open diff i had, i machined the ends of the diff down to fit the open diff bearings. then figured out later i could have just used the standard bearings, the lsd version head uses. but first option was cheaper and faster anyway. next problem was the supra lsd had a slightly different offset, so the backlash couldnt be adjusted enough, as the adjuster bottomed out. machining the first few threads off the adjuster fixed the problem tho.

can see in the pic the adjuster sticks out quite far, other side is the opisite. but still enough threads in there to be all good.

after almost a whole weekend pissing around installing it, i was pretty gutted to find it was almost as bad as the hilux lsd. turns out it was basicly the same as hilux one inside. maybe just the preload spring was stronger. didnt have the apart at the same time to compare. defintly no ramps tho.

because one wheel skids suck, i spent some more cash and got a modified hilux one, with ramps and shit in it. mean- well worth the money

modified vs supra

got me a ae86 quaife quick rack. some slight modifcations and now its 2 turns lock to lock insted of over three. steering is a little heavy, but it drives like a gokart.

still waiting for my new rims to arrive, should be here in a few weeks hopefully

has nearly passed cert, just need clean wof and driveshaft to be sorted.

finally got them to fit aye. i recon you should make them longer before you weld the collector on, if you can

on some diffs, if you dont need to shorten it much. you may get away with just triming the ends off the axles. my hilux diff i shortend the housing about 20mm each side. there was enough spline cut up the axles, that wasnt being used. for me to cut 20mm of the end of each axle.

95 is rude. = about 15psi on my front wheeler starlet. then its octane limited. on 98 it'l run 20psi (maybe more havent pushed it any futher) and make at least 30kw more. i listen for detonation on a home made detset. works good

make your own collectors. off the shelf ones usualy suck

got a price list from south pacific tyres few months ago, with our company discount. seem pretty average tho, but havent brought tyres for ages or in the size i need.

195/45r15 goodyear f1 gsd3 $175 inc gst

195/45r15 dunlop sp sport $187

shit prices or alright?

keen to know what a toyo t1r, in the same size is worth too.

MR666 -old black plate. cant remember the car now. could have been a cortina. some old gezzer driving

nice kp man, looks sweet on those rims

yeh, bro broke two w50's, when he had his hj panel van. 350 chev with mild work. 2nd gear both times. went to a w55 after that.

our lathe can cut threads. but it'd probably take me 10m of pipe and few 100 worth of tips before i got it right. be fairly simple if youve done it before tho/

must mean the backing plates the drum brake stuff is on. the bearing holder bit isnt big enough to get in the way.

thought they just unbolted? been along time since i chucked that shit in the bin tho

mike, you need itb's!

did you get your link all wired up in th end?

yeh you'l get alot more fuel thru the same line when running efi.

"as pressure increases, flow decreases" , only relates to the fuel pump itself. if it isnt up to the job

could have modded the x member to bring the lower arms in a touch. then weld some platforms to the struts. for coil over setup, with some camber plates to bring the top in. that way could have got the street fins inside the guards without heaps of camber. and lower it bouns!

new rims look pretty sweet tho.

coil over it.

i ran a new feed. then used the standard feed for a return on the kp. works sweet as, only a puss n/a 4age tho. cant remeber what size the feed i ran was

sounds like you need to prime the pump

paul white does them in kerikeri, travels to whangarei regularly too. look on the lvvta site for his number.

Burntrubber: yeh ive never talked to the guy myself. just what quite a few people have told me. thats why i went to the kerikeri guy. ah connecting nuts, that explains it. i thought you were talking about a standard nut.

i still like the idea of machining an insert, to fit inside the tube better tho.

i use 18mm joints and then use a bush in the eye to match what eva bolt size your using - recomend 12mm. the hollow bar i use i stress is heavy duty like 5mm wall and then bore and tap 18mm. . . . .

sheesh, yeh that is heavy duty. bit of an overkill for a kp with only a n/a 4age trying to rip the diff out. maybe a thinner wall tube with an insert in the end would be the go. keep the weight down a bit. machining bushes and stuff is no problem as i have acess to a lathe

Really guy I spoke to said it was fine.

cert dude? witch guy did you ask? i use the dude in kerikeri. the whangarei guy (shane speight ? ) is spose to be a bit of a tard from what ive heard?

thats one thing the cert guy said. threads are spose to be taped down the tubes. cant just weld a nut on. i made some traction bars for my fwd starlet awhile back and welded nuts onto the tubes. they failed the cert. i just took them off as couldnt be assed remaking them at the time. so yeh maybe worth checking up on before you do it that way

all good, some questions for ya:

what size id tube (mild steel?) and rose joints do you use? do you tap a thread down the tube for the rose joints? how much thread on the rose joints you use?

have seen a kp with cracked floor when using rose joints both ends. altho it would had have over double the power, of what mines making. thats another reason i want to rose joint only one end. keep a bit of the flex there. will loose some adjustability and be more of a pain to adjust thats all.

would rather make them myself to keep cost down. but yeh how much for just one rose jointed end and nothing on the other? i can trim them to length and tig the ends of the current arms onto them

revhead: yeh i have the general idea how they need to be made. talked to the cert guy about something similar awhile back. but yeh guess i maybe able to beat some more info out of him. he mocks me about having 2 "starlets" everytime i ring him tho interesting idea about the corrolla links.

was looking at those advans, they would probably look pretty sweet. pretty sure they'l hit the coilovers tho. +35 offset just fits in a 7" rim, they were +40 from memory.