kpr

Try this...

A mate of mine in the UK developed it and it's actually reasonably accurate (although you can break it with silly figures).

http://www.letstorquebhp.com/calculator.asp

this one spits out some random results. says i need 440 hp to do my time, a 325hp to do the trap speed. when it has about 300hp.

same ^

half assed wire buff job and a can of matt black was the win for me. no important parts have fallen off, so its all good

yeh you'l get away without a welding ticket. long as your welds look good. i did all the welding on my cars and both went thru a cert no worries. the second car he didnt seem too worried at all, diff, turrets, engine mounts etc.. only thing he was worried about was drive shaft, witch has to be done by qualified shop as someone else said.

where abouts from? every custom one ive had made has been shit.

super shane cunningham

sad dude still wont pass on his staff discounts. hes actually manager at the moment

one thing i like about supercheap is, that alot of the parts, you can go grab off the shelf, and look in the book hanging on the shelf if you have to. pay and gone. not have to talk to some retard who insists that the part i want, wont work on my car. becuse the book or they computer says something diffrent.

then again, maybe its just the whangarei branch

good point. seems i may have fucked up there. sounded good at the time though. im having trouble studing your picture right now,. maybe i'l have somthing worth saying tomorow though. loose track maybe not camber

lathe doesnt really need to fit the shock thru the hole. when i did mine i had them setup around the other way. clamp current thread in chuck. machine the shaft down to correct size. the cut thread, cut excess thread off last.

hardest bit is cutting the thread if you havent done it before. need special thread cutting tip to do it as well.

heres the ones i made, outside bits where the bolts go thru, are soild machined down on lathe. bits between are bits of 2" pipe,

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v178/ ... 011s-2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v178/ ... 020s-1.jpg

best to get the angle down even if it is a pain in the ass. anything past flat will reduce camber as suspension compresses, so you'l be loosing camber when you need it most. wont have as much effect with stiff suspesion or running alot of camber to start with tho.

im running 50mm rca's in the kp. ball joints clear 14" rims. but not by much.

best to measure up before you buy,

ok wat am i measuring then?

just get it at the height i want then measure how much i need to drop the control arm by to make it atleast horizontal, or even try get it similar angle to wat it is now (stock height)

yeh pretty much, lower it. then work out from there. you could even unbolt the struts and use some kind of tempory spacer ( 2" pipe cut to length or somthing) and some long bolts. just so you can throw it alltogether to check clearnaces. then drop it on the ground to check angles.

drftnmaz: made them myself. think theres pics in my project thread. if not can dig some up

im running 50mm rca's in the kp. ball joints clear 14" rims. but not by much.

best to measure up before you buy,

yeh will only drop it down thickness of the coil, on top part. 10mm or whatever a coil. but should be a good 30-40mm lower by the looks of those springs

i have the same problem as you at the moment with the rattly shims. 4e and 5e engines share the same shims as 4age if your needing to rob some.

car is looking sweet anyway.

starlets run that 4 link setup stock, mine runs same hilux setup.

Just called ITW, the supplier for Devcon, comes in a 454g bottle of liquid or in a putty form. Can get it at Auckland Engineering Services in Beaumont street (down by all the marine shops in Auckland) for trade price $130.

Guy said they only do two hardnesses 80a and 90a, the Devcon 80 is 84 Shore A scale, so it's gonna be pretty rigid compared to the 60 that the honda guy used.

A 454g bottle would be enough for two sets of mounts all round for my car, so maybe one of yous is keen to go halves?

you could buy softer back when i did mine, altho i didnt use it. yeh stuff is pretty hard when it sets. but still softer than a stick of yellow urathane.

my ones arent twinpots nar, but superstrut models come with them.

caliper design and type of rims as others say, is what it'l come down to

new intake had a nasty vibartion problem i couldnt fix. so quads ftw

shit since im trying to resist the urge to turbo it, but could do with a bit more power:

crusty ones are the orginal smallport cams vs kelford billets. currently has bluetop cams.

got 270mm rotors with ae101 calipers on one of my cars. 14's just fit over them with a few mm clearance

devcon flexane 80, i think the stuff is called. got it from paykels (sp?) from memory. 2 pot stuff, mix it up like resin.

poured engine mounts for my fwd starlet years ago.

blah,

has cert, wof and reg!

going back to a single throttle intake, mostly due to all the crap going thru the motor. rather than trying to find an over priced smallport inlet. im making a custom one. shouldnt loose much power over the quads.

mid part of the runners. tapered for velocity:

more progress tomorrow,.

who's the engineer if you dont mind me asking?

wicked car btw

yeh thing with hilux diff will work. just swap axles left to right, if the splines are a bit worn.

maybe worth sliding the gearbox off just to check it it isnt a clutch/bellhousing issue ?

must be a mitsi thing, my old work shitter lancer wagon had the same issue, cut out if you went too fast around a right hander. with less than 3/4 tank. pretty average for a 2000 model i thought