kpr

had to make a few changes to make the work's fit. changed back to 4x 114.3. as i had changed to 4x100 and fwd offset, because it was cheap way to do brake upgardes and make hilux diff fit at the time.

front hubs swaped back to standard. new pug rotors and bracket made for caliper:

new rims!

these pics dont do it justice:

will update the other changes and post some better pics another day.

this is for tacho's that run from coil -

cost about $2 to make

add another input diode, if running wasted spark for for the 3rd coil if running 6 cylinder wasted spark of course.

stock tach run off coil negitive? single coil standard? you'l need a tacho interface to combine all the coil negatives together, on your wasted spark setup. to drive the tach

ah, by steering arm, i mean from the balljoint, to where the rack end pivots in the rack. dont think what i said above would work though. as probably can't rase the balljoint pivot point on lower arm. could probably lower the steering arm ball joint insted though. i need to have a better look at it.

That link only really applies to wishbone setups, macpherson strut is quite different. Basically in macherson strut to get zero bumpsteer you need the LCA and steering arm to be the same length and sit at the same angle, this will keep the steering arm and LCA travelling in the same arc. Factory setup is generally not like this so short of a complete re-design your best bet is to return it to as close as factory as possible. I would expect spacing the steering arm down while leaving the LCA as it is to really mess your geometry up, I'm not an expert on Capri's though.

Callum

so if i were to make a new lower arm. that follows the angle, and has the same lenght of the steering arm. would be the best option (along with rca's) to try eliminate bump steer? i take it, both the lower arm and steering arm, have to arc from the same point, when steering is straight ahead.

looks to be fairly stright foward on a kp. just need to make the lower arm sit higher at the strut end. as the lower arm currently angles down more than the steering arm. they seem to arc roughly from the same point at the rack/ x member end.

http://www.lvvta.org.nz/

http://www.lvvta.org.nz/Engine&Drive-tr ... ions09.pdf

page 14 or 15 i think it was

cert guy lol'd at the bolts i used. couldnt be assed going to buy some. and had some massive ones laying around

needs to be within 150mm back from the universal.

mine is lucky if it has 10mm clearance between driveshaft and loop. as theres not much movent at that point

mean if you want power like a switch. - crap everywhere but full throttle

new links million times better

new shape corrollas, as someone else said, have them. wagons and hatchs etc,, plenty of them around.

yeh 4x100 is gay, in process changing kp back to 4x114.3 after changing it to 4x100 becuse it was cheap/easy at time.

no worries. got prices off 3 dudes off there anyway, that mypepe guy cheapest at 135 each. not same tyres tho. they dont make the k102 anymore. been replaced with k105. falkens were 168 each

yeh i'l grab that number off you if you dont mind., spamed all the auctions asking about them.

choice, i found one dude on trademe selling falkens in that size.

cant find much else tho. wasnt one of these dudes was it?

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Members/Listin ... ber=115165

or

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Members/Listin ... mber=42271

went to a few local places today but they sucked.

sweet, dont really wanna go that narrow though aye. found some dude on tm that was selling 195/45's so cant be that hard to get - asking if can get more..

other way around bro. longer for low rpm. short for high rpm. probably make them a bit under 1m long if 6-1, for decent compromise. i'l try work some shit out for you

just measure with tape, if your real hardout, you could measure the volume of each runner by filling it with water.

there was a pretty good site with a calculator, to tune them to certen rpm. gives tube size and and length etc., will try find it

make a mean collector/s like a showed you as well. not that hard to do once you know how. whole lot better than that off the shelf shit most places sell.

maybe keen, usually lazy cunt/car in bits/cant be assed driving to town tho(40mins from whangas).

nobumps: seen you're ute parked down lower dent street quite a few times. looks choice

yeh supercharged is same deal as n/a. since you dont have backpresure of turbo.

didnt relise you could get 195/45's in a 14. should be sweet. altho the 195 is gonna be harder to fit. would be mean in a 185

drftnmaz: those gIII's do look nice. cheers for pics

anyone using tyres this size? what brand/sort are you using? need something without a gay bubble sidewall. wont be stretched, as rims are only 6.5's. but want something with nice flat sidewall. sloppy bulgy side walls are probably going to rub, plus they look ugly.

thinking maybe, bridgestone potenza or dunlop sp sport, but havent seen either on a rim

turbo current engine? diesels are easy to turbo/tune. wack a turbo on it and play with injector pump, till it smokes a little under full load. heat is the only enemy.

i'd go for toyo t1r or goodyear f1. toyo's seem to be a bit better in the dry and f1's bit better in wet.

pretty retarded saying f1's suck in the wet.

ahh yeh, thats what i had to do to mine after i cut the ends off. should fix it.

+1

probably too long and mashing the bearings when you do them up. chop 5mm off the end of each axle