kpr

might look into an air box setup at some stage. the filter will do for now though, can allways remove when racing ect.. if its loosing power

havent had the car on dyno. but going by where ive added and removed fuel from the map. seems close to what the calculations were. im using a smaller collector outlet than what that site suggests. was something about the firing order of v8's witch required a bigger collector. than evenly spaced firing order of 4 cylinders.

filter is on!

for the mounting points. in general, if you lower the lower arm mounting point on the diff. you should gain some traction. but will increase roll steer, witch will make the ass end loose and sloppy. ha. top link will have similar effect.

been trying to make this air filter fit. remote mounted brake and clutch reso. moved engine to the passenger side 15mm. kinda have enough room now.

new trumpets. 2 more to go.

socket set, ring spanners and a few screw drivers if on a long trip. along with the usual cable ties and insulation tape. drove a few k's home with a cable tie, as throttle linkage when it snapped. was choice, sticking at 4000rpm

at the moment im running 275lb in the front, and 250lb in the rear. i wouldnt go too soft in the rear if your going low. else you'l run into issues with it boucing off the bump stops. i had that problem up intill i put the 250lb springs in the rear. before that i was running a progressive rate spring (think it was rated at 200lb) that was out of my other car. didnt quite feel right and would do as above. going to the 250lb springs it didnt seem to loose any traction. harder rear springs will compensate for the lack of rear sway bar also. so with a rear swaybar. possibly go a little softer.

would go 200lb at least with 250lb fronts.

having the springs closer to the outside of the car would be another advantage

turreting the rear is actually real easy. i was surprised how well mine went. i just used some 4" exhaust tube. drilled the top out of the standard towers with a 100mm holesaw. lined it all up and welded. only tricky bit was the tophat part. only because i made up my own spherical bearing setup, so had to do a bit of machining. although you could just use something off the shelf or a standard tophat off something.

depends how far you want to go really i guess. in my first comment, was more meaning get some decent shocks and springs to start with, even if you dont turret the rear.

the usual short stroke kybs probably wont be good enough to handle the spring rates you'l want to run at the track. saves buying shit twice.

as for the stock rear binding up. if you release the tension on the bushes. it doesnt bind at all. just need to loosen and retighten the link bolts when the car is on the ground, at its new lowness. but yeh in saying that, i'd love to change mine from the trangulated setup, to a proper 4 link setup with watts or panhard.

i say go with a mean suspension setup first time. done mine about 3 times before i was semi happy with it.

have a rusting kp here if you need bits off it.(doesn't have much worth taking though) can send you the rubber brake lines. but dunno about the metal line if you need that. plus i dont wanna crawl in the mud

I wouldnt go 4x100 in a RWD unless you want newschool type mags

have to agree with this. when the kp was 4X100 i had stacks of burnout tyres, but lots of gay rims.

as requested:

awesome build man, love it.

almost done. just need to attach to exhaust. trying to decided if i want to try a megaphone setup or not first..

fuck my ears hurt anyway.

complies with current exhaust laws

keen for trackday. rarity, i only got a t series one.

just out of interest. can you adjust the ignition curve at all? or is it fixed to what they have programed ?

shit, i just have too much time on my hands i think aye. ^ you have the mean base to start with. your p&p looks far better than mine. FLAWLES you cunt, love the epic widebody race style. i have some bluetop cams here, if you were looking for some for your smallport.

cruising at puke

was doing some try hard d1's onto the back straight on other laps. think i was going slow, because someone spun.

my cert guy was sweet with all the welding on both my cars, without a ticket. diff, suspension, engine mounts etc.. long as your welding doesnt look shit, shouldn't have an issue

finally 4 pipes the same length that fit! looks like some fool has tied my headers in a knot

the updates to this thing never fail to impress me. Those extractors are a work of art and will look awesome once they are done. Wht sort of rev range is this thing tuned to? also how to you go about calculating lengths of intake/exhaust for a specific powerband?

I have a serious love for this little machine.

at the moment its got a fat lazy power band ( or lack of it). trying to move the power up the rev range a bit. aiming for around 7k with the extractors. used this site a bit: http://headerdesign.com/ along what what ever else i could find. the straight part before the collector should let me shorten, or lengthen them fairly easy. if they dont do what i want.

on the intake side, i pretty much tried all different lengths and hoped for the best. will play with the intake side some more once the extractors are finished.

mean, thanks for the comments,

ripped them apart countless times. almost there now

still sussing out no# 4, will be a bit diffrent than in the pic. as its too close to cas. plus run out of bends.

yeh i've always liked the blended into a flat plate method best. the turbo inlet manifolds ive built have always done it that way.

maybe slightly off topic. but, if your going to be messing around with different trumpets at all. don't just try a few different lengths and go with what feels best. need to retune the afr after every change. makes huge difference to tune.

tried some shorter and different shape trumpets on the kp the other day, this happened to afr:

http://www.starletcentral.co.nz/images/kris/afr1.JPG

use to be flat 12.8'ish afr

where do you guys get your heat wrap from. i've used a few different types, and been pretty disappointed in how long it lasts for the price, one lot kinda rotted and fell apart. another went hard and shattered like glass. haven't noticed any corrosion tho, heat painted extractors before i wrapped them, seem all good

hpc gets my vote too

in the combustion chambers, id remove any pointy bits. deshield the valves if required/ possible, but try not to cut out the squish areas.

ports. tidy them up. check for bumps behind the valves where seats have been machined, 4ages have some nasty ones there. in the exhaust ports, you can possibly sharpen the divider into a point, were the gasses from each valve merge. match to manifolds etc.

wouldn't bother fucking with it too much more than that unless you find someone that really knows there shit about that particular head.

inlet runners. the usual bell mouths, large radius will be better. rolled full 180 degrees, or 90" blended into a flat plate seems to be a good argument.... taper is all good. doesnt need to be much 1-2 degrees.

no one likes to give out secrets on this, so do some shit and hope for the best.

finally got some time to do a little more on extractors. theres no room under car. so runners go forward and loop back under to gain some length. trying to keep everything even as possible.

took it around puke last weekend. was pretty hilarious in the rain.

started on new extractors. current ones are 4-2-1 and tuned to lower/midrange. so don't work so great with the cam's. plus they are a bit hagard. progress so far:

gonna also slide the engine accross 10mm or so, to the exhaust side, before i start mocking them up on car. witch will gain me some more room for airfilter / intake. easy the way the engine is mounted.