Roman

Definitely +1 to the car making me think of circa 1999 Queen street with people "doing laps", hahaha.

I've not seen a rotary starlet in a long time!

It's a pretty good combo, really.

Is there any benefit in tidying up the shape of the throttle shaft/screws/throttle plate for when throttle is wide open?

That stuff is so thick, I managed to pull most of it off by unpeeling it off at one corner, and just rolled up into a... roll when it unstuck off the floor. Hah. (On a hot day)

Thinner stuff is definitely total win to do it on a cold day with an air powered chisel, smashes the shit out of it in big slabs.

Go to toyodiy.com

Find part number of your heater box thing

Go to the part which lets your cross reference parts to other vehicles

Find the most modern car which has the same part number

Get one from pick a part or something

great success.

Haha, there should be heaps of 3AUs floating around.

I'd just guess that most people dont even bother putting them on TM due to low demand.

A cats eye would tear your sump a new arsehole!

I cant see the point.

GTR brakes are no doubt popular for other non GTR skylines (which have narrower calipers) so why not just buy the GTR ones, then swap?

Might get some cash difference your way, as opposed to paying for machining to get them narrowed down to the same thing,.

You neglect to mention that the mid engined aspect of MR2's skews the figures somewhat due to superior launch over your average RWD street car.

And the fact that its an absolute cuntola of a job to fit north/south.

Oh yeah, keen on a set of non gtr 4 pots if anyone got some!!

I had a pair of gtr calipers, the issue was that they are so freaken wide that wouldnt even fit between strut and wheel.

<3 Corona coupes

A fancy pants one too.

i dont really like the quad headlight. to meny people do them id rather be different

In relative terms (compared to other people on the internet) yes, twin headlight is a popular mod. (because it looks about a million times better)

In absolute terms, 99 out of 100 people on the street probably havent seen a twin headlight KE70 before.

Definitely quite pricey for a swap though!

The bulk of your fuel consumption is going to be determined by your low rpm, low load efficiency of the engine.

Altering the boost settings changes the mid/high rpm, high load operation of engine operation.

It's like buying padded running shoes so you dont get sore feet while sitting on the couch.

A car with a good factory gas tank position is an MR2.

It has it dead centre in the car, just underneath the gear lever.

Long and narrow tank as well, so less susceptible to fuel surge.

So despite being pretty much as close to the driver as possible, I've never heard of a crash involving gas tank rupture making the driver explode.

I guess if you're in a crash bad enough to damage the tank, you're likely a pile of mush before you catch on fire anyway

I must say it gives me the shits, where a good shunt in the rear of my car would likely make my gas tank go pop.

An E30 BMW has got the clutch and brake top mounted, then the accellerator floor mounted.

It made it a complete pain in the arse to get used to for heel toe.

As you need to do it the other way around, otherwise you're pressing on the fulcrum of the pedal rather than the furthest point.

Maybe a publica?

Werent they called KPsomething

So the top two covers off, intake cam out, all headbolts undone?

I took one off two weeks ago, lifted straight off by hand.

Maybe theres a bracket or bolt that you havent noticed thats still done up.

Man it really is a mix of emotions reading KPRs build threads...

The fabrication skills and smarts are equal parts stupidly awesomely impressive and mildly depressing.

Impressive because they're awesome, depressing because it would take me a billion years to make something half as good as the stuff he bangs out!

Bam! Just like that.

I've got an engine crane and a gumby pair of hands, if either come in handy.

What is actually coming out of the catch can, is oily, or more like water vapour?

My motor since being rebuilt has spent a shitload of time idling with no load on it, running stupidly rich, and all sorts of other unsavoury activities.

I took it out for its first good run pretty much straight to the race track, and beat on it till it broke (loose valve guide)

Apart from an error with machining, there were no discernable problems based on having had the engine idling for long periods or otherwise.

Beat on it to redline every gear, synthetic oil.

I've got the head off at the moment, and there's no damagey looking wear patterns on the bore, or anything like that, everything seems fine, despite having done the worst possible thing for a new motor, according to current wisdom.

I guess a compression test would perhaps show the true story though. (Or pulling the pistons out, but CBF)

Breaking in an engine seems just like choosing an engine oil.

Everyone's method is divergent not inclusive.

As in, "I did this and it works fine, therefore its what you should do"

Doesnt mean that doing something else wouldnt have acheived the same result.

What happens to factory new motors?

They dont get any special oil or run in for 1000s of kilometers in a particular way.

What I would be interested to know, is who has run in an engine and then had it FAIL, or glaze the rings or whatever, what were the symptoms, and how was this diagnosed as the issue.

I'd say turbo bluetop is best gains for dollars spent and ease of conversion.

So long as you dont mind munching the odd T50.

Beams is a lot of work into an AE86.

As a general rule I'm a fan of spending the $$$ on bolt on bits, that way if you blow your motor up your not thousands of dollars down the drain. Just stick another block in there and you're good to go.

Damn thats a sweet idea for the gearbox mount!

/steals

Car was having issues with brake bias being too rearwards, so am going to use a Load proportioning valve from a Toyota Estima as a brake bias adjuster.

These are normally connected to the rear suspension, so that as the static ride height of a van lowers (with more weight) it adjusts the lever which adjusts the rear brake bias.

Safety wise it's better than the wilwood equivilent because it takes a pressure reference from the front brakes, so if you've got no front brake pressure due to failure etc, it will send full braking power to the rear instead of limiting it.

So it just needs a threaded adjustor made up, instead of the lever pivoting it. Factory parts / being cheap / pick a part FTW!