Roman

lol, he says in one of his posts that he's had to make an oil drain from the head to prevent that....

But yeh, will need sump/oil pickup replacements/modifications if he hasnt done so already.

Is that a 1S or 2S sump on it? Cant remember what the gen 2 3SG(t)E sump looks like.

Have been doing a few random things.

This is now officially a sound deadening free zone!

I needed to use parts of both the adjustable and non adjustable steering columns to get something that's going to work with my car.

Has been stripped down, painted, reassembled out of various bits from each.

The crossmember and some various other bits which are off the car were looking a bit crusty, but it's nothing that some sand blasting/rust killer/wirebrush/etch primer/marine grade 2 pack black cant fix.

It's pretty hard/impossible to photo them after they're painted thanks to the colour, but they're a really glossy black now, looks awesome.

The guy wants 300hp... A V8 is the easiest/cheapest way to get it.

The 1UZ is probably cheaper, because you dont need a custom clutch/flywheel/bellhousing/etc.

sweet dude, that video is so cool, as Colin Chapman so famously said "in order to go faster, just add lightness".

Yeah mate, that's exactly how I've wanted to build my car.

The quote was "To go faster on the straight, add HP. To go faster everywhere, add lightness" And that's exactly what I've done, the car weighs in at about ~1030kgs with a quarter tank of gas and in street trim.

Rather than having a rear heavy turbo model (that weighs ~200kgs more thanks to gruntier gearbox/axles/hubs/and additional engine weight etc)

I wanted to make something that was as light as possible with the most powerful NA engine available, and see of I could make up the difference with having the car more balanced in terms of weight distribution etc.

And it goes damn well! it's so much fun.

A lot of other MR2 drivers cant believe that

I can chuck it into corners etc without spinning out etc.

I've pretty much just sold the engine though, lol.

I've got a gruntier version of the same engine going into my carina, so I'm hoping that it will be just as good if not better. (will have slightly more drivetrain loss going to a front engined RWD setup though....)

but your graph is exactly what i mean. its great power, but its nothing like the (even with power train losses) figures you hear banded about.

Absolutely mate, I agree 100%.

Someone tried to tell me that their mates altezza gained 30-40hp with a good tune... I did some investigating, and found out that it actually gained something like 4kw. lol. Modern engines that are fairly hard tuned are incredibly hard to get more HP out of, it's very likely that you'll end up taking a step backwards instead.

the bump in you graph is engine resonance, its commin to every engine and you can move it around but you cant get rid of it. maybe you can disguise it, or use it to your advantage like the weirdos who build "horsepower heros". whatever.

thanks for posting your graph cauz it kind of vindicates what ive been saying.

sheepers.

I dont agree with this part though.

With the standard engine, maximum torque is supposed to occur at 6000rpm. If you look at the shape of the graph, this is supported. But there's a bump at 4500rpm or so, which directly corresponds with the slightly leaner AFR which occurs at this point. (for whatever reason)

Seeing as how the only real mod is the extractors, it's unlikely that max torque has bumped itself down 2000rpm or so.

I'm convinced that being able to lean out the AFR will produce 130kw+ ATW with this setup. Not that this is a *huge* amount of power in the grand scheme of things, but it's enough to have some damn good fun in a ~1000kg car.

It seems like no coincidence to me, that the most torque is made at a lower RPM than it is supposed to, which just happens to correspond with the point where the AFR is a little better than 12.5:1

the beams motor (3sge) is a good engine, but it dosent make anything like the numbers quoted in this thread. 120RWKW is a good result for this motor.

With repco panel filter, TOMS extractors and standard exhaust, this is what my MR2 beams 3SGE (the 200hp instead of 210hp version) gets:

Max torque is supposed to be at 6000rpm, but it's at 4000, corresponding with where its not running stupidly rich. Lean out the AFR a little and I'd have 130-135kw ATW easy I reckon, if that bump translates up the range.

Although you're right, Altezzas seem to make SFA power at the wheels, even though they've got another 10hp up their sleeves.

A guy at the same dyno day had a primera with an SR20VE which had cams, ECU, intake and exhaust had less than 3kw more than me, and less torque. :larf:

And here's a comparison of mine to an R33 RB25DET on the track:

In saying this, definitely not easy to get 250-300hp out of one without spending a lot of cash.

My suggestion would be either 1UZFE or VH41/VH45 engines, both all alloy 4/4.1/4.5 litre quad cam V8s, that are good for 300hp at the wheels without a problem!

Watanabes are the ONLY option for MX5s!

With mandatory hard top roof of course.

Just an update with some more info on these:

Wheel Name: Impul Pro Spoke

Size: 15"

Width: 7"jj

Offset: -2

Weight: 7kg each with no tires

PCD: 4x114

The one thing that MX5s need over all others, is DEFINITELY a hard top.

Jesus, what's with the datsuns and awesome wheels?!

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 835667.htm

No point in doing things by halves, right?

Been going a little nuts with the paint stripper. 8O

Have rigged up some mounts for the radiator, and ended up having to pull out the whole dash etc to get at some rust that was in an annoying place.

Aaaand then a bit more work done with the wire brush/stripper/sand blaster/etc... Still a fair bit left to go! Sand blaster should be able to sort most of it out though.

I've been wanting to buy the MA45, but cant get hold of the guy.

If anyone here buys it (before I do) for the wheels, I'm keen on buying the car on a set of steelies or something.

hehe ill buy it for wheels, somwone can get a cheap ma45!!

Heh! Well I dont like the wheels at all, and want to get some MA45 bits.

Gonna go have a look at it tomorrow arvo, will keep you posted if you're keen on the rims.

Depends on where you are I suppose, I got my red carina shell towed away for free.

Here's the sort of power that the carina should be making when it's up and running. This dyno plot is from my MR2, which is slightly less modified than what the carina engine is going to be, but still the same engine etc. As you can see it runs really rich at high RPMs, if I get a powerfc for the Carina, I dont think that 130+kw ATW will be out of the question. Which should be good for a bit of fun. The low rpm leanness has been fixed now BTW.

I'd happily pay 1500+ for a set of wheels that were really awesome, better than paying half as much for something that you're not really happy with IMO.

Aaah well things have been fairly quiet on the Carina front lately.

I've made a few more purchases for bits and pieces of it.

A steering wheel + bosskit.

rear half of altezza exhaust with rear muffler, $1 on trademe (I'll use the muffler at the least... if the rest doesnt fit... who cares, it was only a dollar!)

factory altezza springs, $2 on trademe (Same applies... I might be able to get away using the (presumably stiffer spring rate for heavier car) springs on the front or rear of the carina. And if not... who cares, I'll take em to the scrap dealer and get $5.

I've also bought a bunch of bits to finish building the engine properly. They've taken forever to turn up, as redtop 3SGE bits always seem to do! I cant remember what I bought though. Cambelt and some other bits, haha.

Pretty much the entire car is stripped out now, underseal has all been chipped off, engine bay is fully stripped, and some work on the rust has begun. I'm not too flash with this, so I've called in some help on that one.

Had to take the whole dash etc out to fix some of the rust, so I figure I might as well switch to a black interior, seeing as how my blue one is awesome in a painful sort of way, but also missing a few pieces which would be impossible to find.

Plan from here is to fix the minor surface rust under the car, etch primer it with a good zinc primer, and then underseal. Sand down the engine bay, fix the minor rust, and then do the same. And then I can go through the rest bit by bit, rust kill and paint etc if necessary, and slowly stick it all back together. I sure do hate painting/sanding/rust work/etc though, it sucks balls!

In all seriousness, I doubt I'll have my carina running by then. And my other car is too new to be allowed......

Yeah maybe another time then!

I'll definitely be coming to an OS trackday when my POS is going haha!

Okay a bunch of us on another forum are trying to scratch together enough people to make a track day at taupo happen, on thursday the 9th of august.

It would be great if anyone was keen, anyone, and any car is welcome. details are here.

If anyone is keen, sign up and PM 'DJHG', or send me a PM and I'll sort you something out.

Cheers!

Dave.

The toyota 3vzfe is mean too.

Uuuuum... How about no!

3VZ is poo. Now the diamante 3.0 mivec, now THAT is a V6 worth swapping into something!

Haha good one

Yeah that would be the way to go if you had room over top of your gearbox, but uuuuhhhh...... 99.999999999999999% of cars with 1UZs in them dont.

Seriously though, thats a badass looking exhaust system! what's it from?

Depends on what you're wanting to use the car for.

Torsen can be great, forumula one cars run torsen diffs if I recall.

However if you're drifting, wanting to do donuts, rally, etc, then they're not so great. Good for track stuff, and road driving, but if you're wanting a more 'traditional' sort of LSD, then a plate type one is the way to go.

I've got a plate type LSD in my MR2, replacing the standard torsen. It probably makes my car handle worse when driven at the limit than what it would be like with the torsen IMO, but it's awesome for doing stupid stuff in the car.

Hey do you want a spare silvertop airbox to chop and change? I've got one here that you can have for free, I've got a crap load of other silvertop 4age throttle bits here too! just not the throttle bodies, haha.

And BTW, I'm not convinced that the 'mild' flare on the end of the pipe is necessarily best... I'd say it's more to do with that its the easiest/most cost effective way to make them, eg. they can just put a normal circular pipe in and flare the ends without needing to weld anything on, or whatever... I doubt you could stretch the material its made from out much wider than that.... I dont know what the TODA throttles are made from, but yeah. I've seen some that have the full round end, but they're usually machined out of aluminium or whatever, rather than being made from metal pipe. The motec 45mm throttle bodies are CNC machined, and have a 'full round' on them at the ends (see pic below)

Also, there's an advantage to be had with a remotely positioned airfilter.

I remember reading something where a guy did some tests with a manometer, to find high pressure areas at the front of the car. With some experimenting, he found a place to put his intake entrance, so that the pressure behind the airfilter was still *higher* than atmospheric pressure... meaning that not only had it nullified the pressure drop from trying to suck through the air filter, but he was getting a mild supercharging effect! which is pretty sweet.

Yo mikuni!

Ditch the socks man, they completely ruin flow.

airbox FTW. You can still get MEAN induction sound with an airbox, my induction noise is rediculous. And still good for 171hp at the wheels.

Regarding putting a backing plate on the bellmouths. Do NOT put the plate hard up against the lip of the trumpet end! Set it back towards the engine end as far as is practical, and have the airbox made to that bigger size/volume.

A lot of the flow still comes from around the sides of the pipes, not just from perpendicular to the face of the bellmouth!

With my intake manifold the trumpets actually extend most of the way into the plenum for this very reason....

A torsen LSD works exactly the opposite way to a normal diff.

It sends all of the power to the wheel with the *most* grip.

Another thing that's cool about it, is that you dont have to lose grip, spin a wheel etc to get the LSD effect happening. So you maintain effective grip at higher speeds without stepping the rear out.

Disadvantage of torsen is that they are unpredictable if you lift a wheel in the air, or if you are pitching the car out sideways, etc.