Roman

Fuck!

That... is possibly the greatest video I have ever witnessed.

Good to hear you guys are on the case.

I'm pretty sure mine will be in bits during/after this trackday

Is a Monza going to be your next unfinished project?

P.S. This thread is useless without pics.

What kind of car is that?

TE71?

Looks cool.

You coming down to the Nats?

^ its a 3RZ not a 2RZ BTW

Really keen to see one of these going in NZ...

Pretty sure they're heavy as fuck, but when turboed 500hp ATW is acheivable without pulling the motor apart apparently.

Toyota Blade Master (lulz) is pretty much that...

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-ca ... 901267.htm

Although later corollas are still a fair bit heavier than 80s or 90s ones I guess...

Nice having all the work done already though

A 1S bellhousing to a W series box would make an MZ/VZ/GR V6 bolt up.

P.S. Aahh Cheers Glen I stand corrected

^^ You're likely talking about the 2GRFE? The 5VZ is smaller displacement than 3VZ and equally pooz.

All of the 90 onwards Toyota V6s seem to bolt up to an 'S' bellhousing though which is handy, so can fit to a W box easy enough.

1MZ (newer late 90s v6) is a bit better, but a bit more expensive.

You might have the issues with standing them upright though, as I'm pretty sure they were all transverse from factory.

Oooorrr bit of force induction with a 2.7 litre 3RZFE 4 cyl motors have gotten big HP with standard motors, also comes with a W series bellhousing which is handy.

As mentioned above, 2GRGE is boss level Toyota V6, but expensive as hell and needs a fancy aftermarket computer to run it.

Im in the process of getting a 1992 Toyota Windom for $300, Its so cheap because it has a blow head gasket which caused a cracked radiator

Fixed

[Magn1t forums]

Pitched in my 8309840398543 cents on the facebook thingy:

The reason this is always so heated, is because there are several elements to the argument which make it complicated.

Given this is partly a nerdy/engineering type argument, for sake of clarity I would like to define these issues and give my opinion seperately on:

‎1. Perceived quality control / strength issues:

This has already been pretty well covered by the main article.

‎2. Imitations impacting apon profitability of wheel manufacturers:

There is the argument that no one would buy a set of genuine wheels for $5000, if they can buy a similar looking set for $1000.

This makes sense, but the people who are in the market for a $1000 set of wheels, would they have ever considered paying $5000 for a set of wheels anyway?

Would the manufacturers of $5000 wheels, ever consider making a $1000 set themselves?

For many people, high end wheels are probably over half the value of their car.

Which is a car insurance nightmare not just because ANY aftermarket wheels increase your likelyhood of theft considerably, but try explaining to an insurance company why they should insure $5000 worth of highly likely to get stolen wheels? There are practical reasons beyond the initial cost which make this an unrealistic option for... well, just about everybody.

‎3. Understanding the engineering, manufacturing and price differences between Road wheels vs race wheels

One of the core values of Engineering, is choosing appropriate materials and construction methods to acheive a cost effective solution for a particular application.

Given the application, there's no engineering reason why cast wheels are inadequate for road cars, or even high performance street cars as demonstrated.

Do companies that sell race wheels they expect to sell these on road cars anyway, or is this a market segment they arent even interested in?

If they ARE interested in this market segment, why do they not produce cast wheels which could compete in this supposeduly lucrative market segment?

‎4. Imitations limiting creative/engineering potential of manufacturers

The argument that if imitations of the real wheels are released, then the main company will likely go under, and they will have no further scope for creating new wheel designs, stagnating the market.

However massive amounts of R&D arent required to make wheels, differences designs MAY give diminishing gains in weight save vs total strength, but as demonstrated by the massive variety of wheel designs available, minimising material usage is not one of the main constraints vs other factors.

Widespread use of CAD has likely MASSIVELY leveled the pR&D costs regardless, in terms of prototypes/destructive testing etc anyway.

‎5. Perception that imitations cause devaluation of fashion status of expensive wheels.

Apart from adhering to fasion, there is no practical reason for spending several thousands of dollars on wheels on a street car.

If one person spends $6000 and the other $1000 to acheive the same look, the first person's fashion adherence investment devalues, as well as financial value of selling second hand if competing with imitations. This seems to account for most of the sour grapes attitudes about imitation wheels.

ANY type of Fashion trickles down from the high desirability high quality, to low desirability low quality over time.

Just about any reasonably priced article of clothing in generic stores is a trickle down of more expensive fasionable items that previously held exclusivity and quality that demanded a premium in price.

Imitations are a catalyst for change by making things uncool, and preventing stagnation.

If one fashion was cool forever, then the wheel market would be severly limited in scope for creativity regardless.

Fuck yes!!! :D

Any chance of this doorting at nats?

Next exhaust i make will have one incorporate from the start.

Im all for improved emisions, but due to being completely useless i built my exhaust before a cat was mandatory, then rules changed and i have been unsure where i would be able to fit one retrospectivelu given how it was laid out.

Now its not a worry again.

Hey guys,

Perhaps old news, but I just found out about this today, and it affects a lot of OSers.

Thanks to a revision in December 2011:

http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infos ... vision.pdf

Any pre 1990 car which undergoes an engine swap, is now no longer required to fit a cat converter.

Obviously no one is inherintly against improving emissions etc, but in some cases it's impractical or difficult to do so with a swap.

So good news for people who are in that scenario.

10 days till OS trackday!

Not much left on the to-do list to get the car ready before then.

I've been procrastinating about fitting some shorter steering arms, from a PS ST141 Corona but finally got this done.

Steering feels a bit snappier, with no discernable difference in steering weight which is good.

With rpms there's a bit of smoke out the exhaust, hopefully it's just clearing out oil left in the exhaust from the valve guide incident...

Otherwise I'm super pissed if it's got some other issue causing smokeyness!

Oh well, trackday should be a pretty good test of whether it's likely to blow up again or not

Here's some testing that a guy did with a beams motor and different length trumpets:

Basically, although longer or shorter runners DOES move the intake powerband around, there is a minimum useful length.

Since you can generally buy trumpets between say 25mm and 110mm long, in order to have any useful range of tuning I would aim to have the total length about the same as the factory intake manifold when using a 75mm trumpet, so you've got scope for moving up or down within a useful range.

In saying all of this...

Do what ever will fit, and hit the streets/track make doort noises instead of fussing over things and having a car that never leaves the garage.

*guilty*

That Toyota badge on the front has got to go, hahaha.

Spraying back to all white (or all one other colour) would improve appearances tenfold.

Boso style stuff is a bit yawn worthy, played out to the max.

I'd rather just see a nice looking soarer still rolling around to be honest!

WHAT THE FUCK DO YOU GUYS WANT.

Free-er hot pooling.

I've got offset RCA's in the front of my blue car. they have been sweet and continue to do so.

on a side note, when i crashed the car and smashed the strut tower into the brake booster it bent the strut but did nothing to the RCA.

Good to know. I've always been a bit weary about how strong they are, given the consequences if one breaks or comes loose!

Thinking about it, the nrca's i have won’t change the steering at all, as the steering stays in the same place it’s only the shock that moves.

It increases the scrub radius. Soooo the centre line of the strut turning, is further from the centre of the contact patch of the wheel.

Where as if you use longer LCAs instead, you're pushing the rotational centre of the strut further out along with the contact patch.

Real life difference this makes? *shrug* probably slightly lighter steering with longer LCAs.

There's a mitsi Sigma LCA that fits carina I believe.

i am going to have some made up , as a good friend can do this at his shop. These are some that have been made that i have had in my garage for ages .

If anyone is also looking at getting either of these let me know and i will sort out a price with my friend.

You could just use those ones you've already got! Just need to fit AE85/6 steering arms, all fits up fine as I had this setup previously:

But yeah, I'd be super keen if you can get some made up! They are one of the last pieces I've been looking for.

Do you know what thickness he would be able to go up to?

I'd be keen for the non offset type though, but that makes it simpler to make anyway.

Answer is NO you cannot drive a car legally on the road under ANY circumstance if the WOF is expired. Even go for repairs or a recheck it technically needs to be transported on a trailer or towtruck.

http://www.nzta.govt.nz/resources/facts ... nsing.html

Use of unlicensed vehicles

In some limited situations you may use an unlicensed vehicle on a road. In technical terms these circumstances are described as a defence against a ticket for driving an unlicensed vehicle. These are explained below.

Using a vehicle on the road or inspection, servicing or repair

If you are using your vehicle on a road solely for the purpose, and directly to the place, of inspection, servicing or repair, you will have a defence for using an unlicensed vehicle. This is similar to the law which allows people to drive a vehicle without a current Warrant of Fitness as long as they are taking the vehicle directly to a garage or testing station. This means that your vehicle must be licensed if you are using it for any other purpose but you may drive it unlicensed for these purposes. Please note however, that the vehicle must still be safe to be operated on the road even if it requires repairs in order to obtain an inspection.

Hope to be making some nrca's soon to help out the lower arm once installed.

Just go for normal non offset RCAs, better for steering geometry etc that way.... And less room for wide wheels with NCRCAs.

Can fit longer lower arms if wanting more camber, but may as well change it at the top of the strut if you want it adjustable.

I remember (I think the first time I met you) Talking about our cars which we were planning to have at the next GP trackday

Infinity length projects club

Specific to RPM range that you want them to work at.

Below a certain total length, the effective RPM range is higher than your rev limit.

The longer you can get them the better, basically.

With that setup, the runner length is in between the runner length of the two different style beams manfolds.

Whole length of South Island, that is freaken awesome.

Pics or it didnt happen! Will be keeping an eye on this thread for sure.

I'm stunned and amazed by how well this kind of work can make a car look, but I have absolutely ZERO patience for doing so myself

So Questions... My car's got a paintjob untouched since being sprayed. It's nice and shiny etc, but I'm afraid to do any polishing or anything because I'll probably balls it up and ruin it. Is there anything particular that is done for new paint jobs? I'm guessing having some sort of wax on would be good.