shandawg

SOHC I got my little turning tool from these guys http://www.trademe.co.nz/Members/Listings.aspx?member=406566

and my inserts for the tool from these guys www.carbidenz.co.nz

For anyone struggling with shit handle indicators and no DRO just use a DTI on tool post to get final cuts accurate. Just remember to only wind on half what you want taken off diameter haha.

Also I know it's basic but lots of old loose worn slides and machines that seem flimsy just need the carriage clamp things tightened... Sorry dont know the correct terminology. Usually bolts in carriage that pull a bronze block into the slide to remove any slop.

Also there may be things there to take out the bulk of the backlash.

On mills with really loose tables I'll usually throw a little tension onto the locking bolts too- though that's probably bad practice?

Gibbs. Dependin on bed type most lathes & mills have these wedge blocks which can be adjusted with usually three grub screws. Don't do em up too much though if the bed is that worn it can bind up in places if too tight

Bed wear is usually worst up near the chuck where the majority of work is done. Proper sideways oil like Total Drosera MS 68 (shameless plug) is good too reduces stick-slip and extends bed life compared to improper/no slide ways oil. Hangs around longer due to tackifier as well.

I used to have a machined & ground test bar which came in real handy, put in the chuck and run the Dti along its length to check headstock squareness and test at the end while turning chuck to test spindle / chuck runout etc

You could probably get it from this guy

//oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/user/5960-shandawg/

Yep I have Total Rubia S 30 SAE 30 monograde in 5L and 20L packs, OS deals as always

Dunno if he deserved the appluase, I reckon he couldn't of stepped on it at a worse time after pulling out of it! Lucky

Feel free to give me a shout if you need to talk to someone I own Total Lubricants West Auckland, Have pretty much everything you can think of in oil including Zinc Additives, "running in oils" etc.

Some engines are better run in on monogrades some on multigrades, depends on engine and what the run in procedure is.

Almost all oils these days will have a spec for petrol and diesel engines. The API rating is most common eg CI-4 / SL. The C in CI-4 stands for Compression ignition eg Diesel. The second letter (eg. c, d, e, f, g, h, i, j) is the level of specification, J being the latest. The S in SL stands for Spark Ignition eg petrol, again the second letter stands for the level of specification, N being the latest. be careful running SM and do not run SN if you have a flat tappet engine unless you add some extra ZDDP (zinc), as your tappets, cam lobes will be at risk of lunching themselves due to excessive metal on metal contact. If you have flat tappets and really agressive cam / valve springs I would definitely talk to a specialist when selecting engine oil.

I used youshop recently to bring in an expensive chefs knife from the US, first I had difficulty where the sender had labelled it slightly differently from how it was supposed to be labellend and it got lost in the warehouse for a while, they did find it then told me it was a prohibited item and they wouldn't send it.

After a bunch of to-ing and fro-ing they finally agreed it was just a kitchen utensil and not a weapon and sent it to me. Wasn't that impressed but have just ordered some more stuff (gifts not knives) and will hopefull have better luck this time or they're banned!

They look a bit like BBS E26

Southern ways mesh up there

I've got a 3 ton wayco super low and it's good as, did have to tidy up a circlip groove on one of the front wheels not a biggie

grossmans in manukau had one left they'll be pretty keen to get rid of if its still there

I have a couple of open ones if you get stuck, last R200 Long nose clutch LSD I sold on TM went for $900!

I'd go for an exedy sports tuff setup nice and easy good feel and handles the 228rwkw in mine easy have run it for 3 years (not daily but trackdays drags etc)

FYI Your oil needs to be ACEA C3 spec

The Toyo Proxes 4's on my 1600 lasted 3 years with an SR up front, unless you're doing skids or the toe is really bad you should still get ok tyre wear

Thanks mate I'll go and talk to the boys at Auckland Hoist Services in Avondale before I part with any $$

Hi guys

I'm looking at buying a 2 post hoist for the workshop - have any of you bought one of these or know of anyone who has one? Don't want to buy one then find you can't get seals etc for them!

Looking at possibly one of these: http://www.trademe.co.nz/business-farmi ... 222549.htm or these http://www.trademe.co.nz/business-farmi ... 414857.htm

Not looking at commercial use or anything, mainly weekend tinkering, oil changes etc

Thanks!

Pretty much all oils nowadays will have both a petrol rating and a diesel rating.

The S stands for spark ignition (petrol) the C stands for compression ignition (diesel), the letter after is the spec level hence the current transition from SM to SN.

If a diesel oil is rated CI-4/SL it should be ok to run in an early petrol engine being SL. The latest API Diesel spec is CJ-4 which are usually SM rated for petrol so should still be ok (still pays to check zinc PPM). Always refer to the "S" rating for petrol and the "C" rating for diesel.

Total have a SG 20W50, a CI-4/SL 15W40 and a CF/SJ 15W40, and a new product Power 50 25W50 as caboonatlarge states which has a very high zinc level around 1500PPM.

Just use diesel oils

As long as they are pre SN they should be ok pays to look at the data sheet

Penrite SN oils will do the same as any other to a pushrod engine

Just a quick public service announcement:

Now that API SN oil is hitting the shelves, us with old pushrod type engines could have a bit of fun if we inadvertently put the two together.

SN oils are not permitted to contain more than 800 ppm (parts per million) of zinc. This isn't a problem for newer ohc engines or pushrod engines with roller lifters but engines with flat tappets there will be trouble. We have seen cams chew out in under 1000 km.

Most engine oils rated SM or earlier should still be ok.

I have a couple of products that perform really well in older V8s, sixes, ford fours and other pushrod engines. Feel free to pm me if you're after more info

hmm 25k aint that much if you don't own a welder, a lathe and a milling machine!

If it was all about fastest for the money i'd do a datsun 1200 with an SR20DET running something like a GT3076R, Link, 700cc injectors and all the upgrades and mods to the driveline to cope with the power and stop the car too

now that would be fast!

Name:Shannon

Location:Auckland

Cars you own: Currently 2 x 1972 Datsun 1600, 1 x SS Crewman

Mods to them: Mainly the datsun not in bits: S13 SR20DET & 5 Speed, Exedy clutch, s15 turbo 14psi, 3" exhaust, big IC, Turbosmart Race Port BOV, Datsport crossmember & steering, Mad Dat rear crossmember, R30 R200 Diff housing with S14 LSD centre & shortened axles, ground control coilovers with eibach springs, R33 GTST front discs & calipers etc

How you found out about oldschool: through http://www.datsun.co.nz

Anything else you want to add: Nah just here to check out you guys cars and catch up at meets!