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shandawg

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Everything posted by shandawg

  1. I could chuck that on my mill and clock each hole - would be bang on
  2. Let me know if you need a hand converting
  3. If anyone here has drawings of mazda rotary housings and rotors I would be super keen to get a copy! not having much fun with the trochoidal curve thingys..
  4. Someone up there will surely have some ISO 46 hydraulic oil lying around. for a Jack the difference will be negligible. any engineering workshop or earthmoving crowd should have loads and would probably be happy to sell you a litre for stuff all
  5. I sell this stuff in 1L, 5L and 20L containers for wholesale
  6. So you're the bastard that beat me to those let me know if you don't end up using them I could still be keen to take them off your hands
  7. Not many if any of mine either, got there a bit late due to locking my keys in the boot
  8. Compressor Oil! Depending on what type of compressor it is dictates what type of oil you need. I carry ISO 68 compressor oil (which covers most common compressors) in 4L packs at my place if you need some
  9. I'm sure you did, but did you use proper LSD oil?
  10. Yep I have Total Rubia S 30 SAE 30 monograde in 5L and 20L packs, OS deals as always
  11. They look a bit like BBS E26
  12. I have a couple of open ones if you get stuck, last R200 Long nose clutch LSD I sold on TM went for $900!
  13. The Toyo Proxes 4's on my 1600 lasted 3 years with an SR up front, unless you're doing skids or the toe is really bad you should still get ok tyre wear
  14. Thanks mate I'll go and talk to the boys at Auckland Hoist Services in Avondale before I part with any $$
  15. Hi guys I'm looking at buying a 2 post hoist for the workshop - have any of you bought one of these or know of anyone who has one? Don't want to buy one then find you can't get seals etc for them! Looking at possibly one of these: http://www.trademe.co.nz/business-farmi ... 222549.htm or these http://www.trademe.co.nz/business-farmi ... 414857.htm Not looking at commercial use or anything, mainly weekend tinkering, oil changes etc Thanks!
  16. Pretty much all oils nowadays will have both a petrol rating and a diesel rating. The S stands for spark ignition (petrol) the C stands for compression ignition (diesel), the letter after is the spec level hence the current transition from SM to SN. If a diesel oil is rated CI-4/SL it should be ok to run in an early petrol engine being SL. The latest API Diesel spec is CJ-4 which are usually SM rated for petrol so should still be ok (still pays to check zinc PPM). Always refer to the "S" rating for petrol and the "C" rating for diesel. Total have a SG 20W50, a CI-4/SL 15W40 and a CF/SJ 15W40, and a new product Power 50 25W50 as caboonatlarge states which has a very high zinc level around 1500PPM.
  17. As long as they are pre SN they should be ok pays to look at the data sheet Penrite SN oils will do the same as any other to a pushrod engine
  18. Just a quick public service announcement: Now that API SN oil is hitting the shelves, us with old pushrod type engines could have a bit of fun if we inadvertently put the two together. SN oils are not permitted to contain more than 800 ppm (parts per million) of zinc. This isn't a problem for newer ohc engines or pushrod engines with roller lifters but engines with flat tappets there will be trouble. We have seen cams chew out in under 1000 km. Most engine oils rated SM or earlier should still be ok. I have a couple of products that perform really well in older V8s, sixes, ford fours and other pushrod engines. Feel free to pm me if you're after more info
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