Unclejake

We have a VHF marine radio with a stainless steel whip aerial. The stainless whip is press fitted(??) into a plastic ferule, but the whip has fallen out. I've pushed it back in a few times but it keeps falling out. How can I get it to stay in place and still provide conductivity to the coax? A grub screw or glue at the very top (only) of the ferule is possible I guess, but if there is a conductive glue available that would be a better idea. Removing or unscrewing the ferule off its mount isn't easy as I'd have to dismantle half the boat to get access to the coax It looks similar to the one on the link below, but ours is a different brand. http://www.pacificaerials.co.nz/Marine/P6091VHF10mStainlessSteelAntenna.aspx

Even only running on 5 cylinders the BA still returned 8.8 litres per 100kms on the way to the BoI. It's pretty much the perfect car

Our washing machine drains most of the water if you pause it for more than a few minutes as a small child could climb it, open the lid, crawl into the bowl and drown. At least it doesn't beep much.

Thanks guys. It's not going to be a wheel weight as the shudder is only under braking.... and yup, Vivaspeed is onto it. The shudder has disappeared. WTF! I guess the shudder will come back, but I'll throw some new rotors on it while I'm away. Dear KY, there's no denying that these Falcons have lots of build quality and design flaws, but it is a delight to drive most of the time and it 100% meets my needs at the moment. There's not a lot of choices in big RWD wagons.... (but TBH I wouldn't buy another Ford after this one. The lack of a manual tailgate opening mechanism is completely retarded)

Both are possible, but I checked the bearings only two months ago and there's no issue or noise except under brakes. I need to get it into the shed.

The BA Falcon developed a serious steering wheel shake and vibration under braking this afternoon. It was absolutely fine this morning. It feels like a really badly warped rotor, but I've never experienced one starting off with such sudden and dramatic symptoms. I can't pull it apart for a couple of days, but I need to drive it 800kms the next day, and of course most places are closed. Any theories apart from a warped rotor?

You will find the size of the bore (with calipers) when you take the head off. I don't know how you can tell the pistons are new from underneath, but they would often have the oversize value stamped on the crown

Sorted

Plasticine is the best way. Zero clearance with the rotating method you mentioned would only be interesting in a cam drive failure scenario though. It's better to know what the clearances are like with the cams and pistons moving in sync (I don't know your engine at all) I'd also want the head torqued down on the gasket, and would allow some extra clearance for heat stretch and/or big end wear. AFAIK you can torque down a new gasket, and then remove and re-use it if it hasn't gone through many heat cycles I once had a race engine that blew head gaskets at 82 degrees C, but by the time we got towed into the pits it was running sweet again. It took three gasket changes to work out that the piston crowns were kissing the head when the conrods got 'long' enough due to heat.

A single 40 is a great choice for a street 120E motor IMO. Well played. If your spark is good I think your very first checks should be float setting and needle valve. I've run a single 40, single 45, twin 40s, twin 42s and finally twin 45s on the 1500 pre-crossflow motor - and they always started quickly and well when the float levels and balance were set-up right P.S. 1-2-4-3 is correct, but don't forget that the distributor runs counter clockwise (like a Honda)

I have this sorted now. Thanks for the offer of help anyway

Folks, does anyone want to draw up some retrospective drainage and house plans for me? I'm happy to pay a fair rate in cash. $45per hour? You tell me The drawings will be used for final WCC consents on a completed residential dwelling. The existing drawings were not amended when the interior layout was changed, but the house has a pre-lining consent so it shouldn't be a drama. Let me know if you are able to help out in the next couple of weeks Regards,

Nah, I meant the mechanical advance will be something like 22 degrees. 22, plus a static 10 = 32 degrees @ 3,000RPM (approx.) The last jap dizzy I measured (I built a benchtop dizzy tester) increased from 0 (at 0RPM) to 22 degrees (at 2,100RPM)

Yeah, do what Spencer says. The important bit is to know how much mechanical advance the dizzy gives you. It will all be in by 3,000RPM I expect. It's probably something like 22 degrees. The vacuum advance can be blocked off and forgotten about The most useful thing I ever bought for stz like this was an adjustable timing light. They are da bomb (but not so good for MSD systems) I assume you're not running a brake booster either then?

It depends on your budget. I'd be tempted to: Mechanically lock the distributor Blank off the vacuum advance Fit an adjustable MSD retard module and a cheap programable timing curve device (MSD sell a few)

Can I join youse fella's gang? P.S. Photo 31 in the dropbox is the current owner of 'my' '67 YDS5... and an all round darn decent chap

The space has gone sorry. I can't edit the first posts to reflect that, but thanks for looking anyway

I ran no booster on my race car for years. It required plenty of pedal effort, but the brakes worked very well, and I think it probably helped in avoiding flatspotted tyres. Getting a suitable pedal ratio is important. Don't mess with M/C sizes unless you also mess with the wheel cylinders/calipers too. Getting a reliable source of vacuum on a small race motor isn't easy. I'd ditch the booster and call the weight saving deliberate

Yes. I don't need beers. You can come grab it tonight after 8.30pm if you want. I'm still next door to the ex Pinkies. I won't need it back in a hurry. I can also lend you a skidder if you need

Sorry for the fuzzy pics. Mt phone/camera thing is being a prick

I'll have a spare spot from either mid September or the end of September. I haven't measured the bay but it's about 9 meters long, with good room on one side of the car, and MEGA room out to the other side. You can easily have a car, workbench, roll-cab, some spare parts and still have some free space, but it's not quite big enough for two cars (unless they were really small) The shed is in Landfill Road and has good lights and good security. It's dry and with a smooth concrete floor. Running water, toilet, and power (within reason) are included. This isn't a party shed so would suit long term storage for a large vehicle or boat. There is also a communal working area big enough for a large truck. That area is yours to use as well, but we all share it so no one leaves an immobile thing there without agreeing it with the other tenants first There's an engine crane, chain hoist, lathe, drill press, 20t press, welding plant, linisher, drop saw, compressor and a fridge already on site. This particular bay is a prime one and has excellent access to the main door, but it's Wellington prices: $320 per month (including power)... I might be prepared to come up with some kind of deal if the price puts you off so holla at me if you're looking for somewhere decent

Good werk son. I did not know about this. You continue to impress. As luck would have it I saw a dude riding a black one up Willis St today. I can't recall the last time I saw an Indian under its own steam. It must be fate

'Twas a Palfinger. They even put the bollard into the hole and tidied everything up nicely too. Excellent service from all parties IMO

This bollard is so completely and utterly sorted that it's more sorted than any other sorted thing that has ever been sorted in short order by a team of expert sorters sorting things shortly. Thanks OS, and a special thanks to Vivaspeed (whose keystrokes have launched a thousand Palfingers). Did I mention that the bollard was sorted?

I'd try paint stripper. I'm pretty sure I've done it in the past but I can't actually remember for sure (I've had a lot of past you see) EDIT: Oh, you mean the outside of the barrels? In that case oven cleaner is pretty good and relatively cheap/easy