Abarth

Yeah I tried that and it didnt work + why is there two wires?

Yeah those 2 indicator wires send out signal.

I found the 3 wire relay for the indicators. 2 positive and one negative.

One wire has power when the ignition is on and the other pos is to power the bulbs. Do I hook up each wire to each positive?

Hey,

Ok Ive installed the alarm part sweet and it goes sweet.

Ie arm it, kick the tire and it goes off.

However I have 2 wires that go to the indicators from the alarm to show it been locked/unlocked.

Where do I hook these up?

And same goes for the central locking, I have 6 wires 3 pos and 3 neg that need to be connected.

Where do these hook up too? (Yes, the car has central locking).

Monetary wise take your estimated build budget and times it by 3.

1989 Toyota Corolla Carib.

Cos I had one.

Yeah buy a Fiat,

But despite popular belief you can still get Solex rebuild kits.

Expensive though at approx $130 each = not worth it.

Thats lucky and strange as the whole car mechanically is built like a brick shithouse.

My mate just text me 20mins ago and said his flatmate just brought my old Uno. NZ's so small

Yeah they are staunch little cars,

I brought mine for a rear disk brake conversion on my Strada, the Uno apparently had a 'blown engine'. Found it had just shredded teeth off the cam belt, so I put a new one on and it went sweet. Not bad for $200.

I upped the boost to 1 bar and put a filter & exhaust on mine.

When the boost came on you could get it skidding in 3rd gear in the rain, good times.

Why did I sell that car?

Those 40mm sidedrafts alone are worth that!

Does anybody know how much they went for?

Specifically the Strada 130tc.

Uno Turbos go hard.

Cool a 130tc!

Someones swapped the Factory Recaros for 105tc seats

I think Nuplex sell that stuff along with all the resins and carbonfiber, fiberglass etc.....

http://www.nuplex.co.nz/

Hey I have done this before on my FWD twin cam.

If you are a tooth out the engine will as flat as a pancake though the revs.

If you go any more than that the valves collide.

For a standard twin cam there are markers that line up with engine markers.

Up top the two cam wheels have notches on the back of them. These should line up with the notches on the cam boxes.

Down below there is a pulley with a marker at around 32 degrees? Cant remember exactly.

On the gear box end there is a hole in the housing where you can see the fly wheel. On the fly wheel there is markers, I think the first notch is TDC.

And should line up with the marking on the gearbox casing.

Put the car in gear and push the whole car to move the flywheel in position.

Should check the Haynes manual though,

braided lines for sure, if the Blue one's pop on an engine like yours your car will be back on blocks getting customs internals made again.

How much approx is braided lines? + fittings?

edit: added bonus of sparks when the hoses are touching the ground, best to order 4m.

Have a read of this its quite interesting.

http://www.guy-croft.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=254

I got some billet cams for it, Franklin Cams still have billet blanks.

Thats a nice collection of engine bits you have there.

I am building an 8v as well but N/A.

Are you going to run standard 84mm turbo/supercharge pistons?

Are you going to re bore the block?

For my engine I have the 84mm 105tc pistons and after reading a lot on the Guy Croft forum I was thinking blow by might become a problem. Thoughts?

Buy some wobble bolts/nuts for it, then you can run 4x100 wheels.

131's are mean! If I was to ever get another oldschool fiat it would be the 131 R.

Does the cert cover the 16V head too?

May as well make it brutal.

I heard you got the Gem running now?

Keen as to go for a burn when I get back!

Those air/fuel mixture screws are only for idle and crusing adjustments which effects fuel economy when driving round at constant speed

I.e they wont make your car faster.

There is a few websites that recommend some tuning tips.

Wind the idle speed up too 1000rpm

From what cute wee gem said wind the screw right round till its running rich as, then slowly turn the screw the other way to lean out the mixture.

You know when your getting it good when the idle speed picks up and the engine sounds like its running smooth.

I probably explained all that like shit, so heres a picture of my fiats steering rack.

I think thats your problem; the bush with the red arrow.

I think BnT have them, because my mate used to work there and he had the same problem with his Strada.

He actually used a Ford escort bush in his Strada so its very similar to the escort

Ask for an 'inner tie-rod bush'.

When I did mine I brought the proper bush for $10.

Is not too bad job I took the whole steering rack out and replaced the bush.

I just followed the Haynes manual.

Where the tie-rod goes into the main tube there is a plastic bush that holds the rod in place in the tube. The broken up plastic is probably the remains of the bush.

The bush if fairly small its like a finger ring almost.

Should be noted in a Haynes manual if you have got one.

How many K's has it done?

I got a whole new clutch kit from BNT for my 130tc which has the samish motor as your 124.

+ I got the flywheel refaced and the correct step on it at BNT ($40) as well, much cleaner gear changes etc.