Jump to content

SHGWAG

Members
  • Posts

    3785
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Posts posted by SHGWAG

  1. RE: FD's shooting up in price

    There's a couple of works 13B FD's sitting in the high 40s mark for sale now, and it seems like anything with a S8 Front bumper and rear wing that's tidy sells for $30k+ semi stock on rims.

    FD's had some of the lowest production numbers for the popular rotary's and with them now being able to be imported to the US, prices are starting to climb.

    I'm glad I grabbed mine when I did.

    • Like 5
  2. 1 hour ago, Popwill said:

    Actually was just going through a few photos and found one of our 20bt rx7 racecar before the livery... looks quite mean. Thought would share.

    OOO Quick question, did you use the factory intake manifold? If so, how did you get it to fit under the hood?

    Looking to cut 2 inches out of my LIM + lower the steering rack to make her fit....

  3. Speaking of builds, toying with the idea of selling 2/3rds of the fleet - both the FC and the RX8 to make way for a new car.

    If anyone is toying with the idea of getting into a rotary, the RX8 is mint. Bought it off an OS member too.

    Get in touch if you're interested.

     

    Will start a build thread on the 20B FD project when I get around to it too.

    • Like 1
  4. On 10/04/2020 at 10:48, 64valiant said:

    Why thank you. I'll be sure to put that money aside for my own rotary.

     

    I've decided the next car I will be buying/building is going to be a FC, but I'm thinking like a year away so hopefully prices stay average for the likes of s4/s5 rolling bodys and assortment of parts.

    Better get in quick, they're starting to rapidly appreciate.

    • Like 1
  5. It's @20BRX3's old EP, he was making 860+ whp with it.

    I'm planning to strengthen the block with a 10mm stud kit, otherwise leave as is. 

    Going to run a Borg 472SXE - same as what's on my 13b in the FC. High boost will hit some where near 700whp, but will run closer to 400whp for street duties.

    Have had the motor and chassis for over a year now, but they've both sat so I could race in the Meremere Competition season. Now that's canned, I can crack into this once the country rights itself.

    • Like 4
  6. Hi Clint,

     

    I'm about to start the process of mounting a 20B into my FD.

    Have yet to get a certifier on board, but thought the internet would have all the answers anyway ('cause we all know that if it's on the internet, it's gospel).

    Anywho, what are the rules around modifying the factory subframe, specifically where the steering rack mounts to the subframe?

    The mounting points for the rack are at the front of the subframe protruding forward.

    Xcessive Manufacturing in the States does this kit: https://xcessivemanufacturing.com/mazda/20b/mazda-20b-m-20b-fd-xmm-k.html

    Kit is for LHD cars so can't be used here.

     

    Essentially I want to do the same, but rather than cut out the subframe and weld in new parts, the plan is to:

    Cut the stock subframe either side of the mounting brackets

    Bend the front of the subframe down which will rotate the rack downwards.

    Reweld the subframe

    Notch the subframe slightly to clear the steering shaft.

    This effectively drops the height of the steering rack.

     

    The below pic shows what I want to achieve - see the nearest edge of each subframe with the rack mounts:

    3138d1051020130-20b-pettit_subframe_and_

    Top subframe is an aftermarket option, bottom is the stock subframe.

     

    The second aspect to this, is the bump steer issue caused by dropping the rack.

    Most kits out of the states use 'bump steer adapters' which is just an adjustable rod that spaces down the tie rod end - is this legal in nz?

     

    Both of the above things have been done in circuit cars, but unsure of legality for nz roads.

    The other option is to build a custom subframe, however, I'm trying to limit costs.

     

    All of this is to get the motor as low as possible in the chassis, and maintain the factory bonnet.

    Already cutting 40mm out of the intake manifold, however need atleast another 30mm to make it fit.

     

    Thanks

  7. 39 minutes ago, kiwi808 said:

    Seems like a lot of people whinging about 4&Rot on social media. Think it’s nearing its best by date.

    It's under new ownership / management.

    I think they did the best they could with the experience they had, but it's well down on what it used to be.

    Bring back the monster trucks and jet packs plz

  8. 13 hours ago, dabuzz said:

    Waiting patiently 

    Barely anything worth taking pics of at the Show and Shine.

    Walked away severely disappointed.

     

    And Sunday I was too busy working on my car to get much time to get around and take pics.

    • Like 1
  9. 21 minutes ago, RUNAMUCK said:

    Much more left in it do you think @SHGWAG?  That's tantalisingly close to single digits. But my like how time speed up as you grow older, tenths of seconds get harder to squeeze off the faster you go too.

    Easy, I missed 3rd and didn't pull 4th to try avoid breaking out.

    Has a 9.8 in it if not better.

     

    Just driving around the fact I have factory 30+yr old axles and CVs.

    So a high 1.4 60 ft is all they will handle (Snapped an axle 1st run of the day on sat).

    There are options out there to upgrade, but cost is the issue.

    • Like 2
  10. Most cars I've seen that delete the OMP also run aftermarket computers, which still inject fuel on decel for the flames / lols (I know mine does).

    Haven't heard of people deleting the OMP without going to an aftermarket computer, as I'd think this would throw up all kinds of error codes in the ECU and put the car into limp mode?

  11. On 22/08/2019 at 20:46, Tele29 said:

    How much power now? And what transmission and rear end? Just curious. 

    Touch under 470wkw @9200rpm on J Tune's dyno - ran out of injector.

    Transmission is a syncro TKO600 - still slow shifting 2nd as the syncros can't keep up.

    Rear end is S5 RX7 IRS, with Part shop max solid diff mounts, adjustable camber arm, solid camber links, DTSS delete, and a green brother's spool centre - axles are a consumable item at this point. :badgrin:

    There's options out there to upgrade, but not worth the investment at this stage.

    • Like 4
×
×
  • Create New...