~Slideways~

8 minutes ago, nzstato said:

I agree often think 'the model down' often presents good buying - workmate has bought his S15 "but its aftermarket, not factory turbo", I say its clean and good price.  Compare that statment to GTS/Replica Monaros (as a generation already at $$$) and the average person wont care, and the driving experience is just the same...

Clean AE82s are now $$$, others will likely follow.  Think 101s might end up the 'cheaper' of that model range. 

Caldina GTT, those are still cheap?

 

Agree the owners will changed, also alot of this stuff is getting longer in the tooth and most need a decent tidyup...

 

I totally agree, I'm not at all fussy with genuine original factory models. In fact I have a half baked idea to build an evo 5/6 kinda thing from a nana spec 1.5L awd one. Whether I ever do it I dunno. But have absolutely no issue with it not being a genuine evo, in theory it could be better, maybe I'd paint it red with Tommi Makinen stickers but have it saying Tony Makinen or something stupid.

I had a stock standard 1983 Trueno GT Apex. It ended up with a 4agze and w58. That was 20 years ago though.

Currently have an NZ New 200sx, put a 1jz in it and no interior. It's what I wanted, not to make it worth more.

I sold my ae82 FXGT a few years ago, would have been good to have a crystal ball lol still got $3500ish which was good at the time.

Yeah GTT's are still around 5-6k which seems pretty good.

Man, 300zx's have already gone crazy, just checked and mostly over $20k. Jeez they used to be shunned and a few grand.

2 hours ago, nzstato said:

Are we at the start of a larger appreciation in 90s-2000s cars, and what will it do to the scene?

I think the main obvious thing from the much higher value will mean these cars are no longer thrashed, crashed and parted out, they'll be in the hands of people who want to enjoy them but not treat them like shit. I like seeing a nicely looked after GC8 WRX these days, I don't see as many run down ones anymore.

I am guilty of loving the 90's era but have more and more been looking at 2000+ and thinking what I'd like. I used to hate the bug eye WRX but now I just see a better chassis and a stronger gearbox. The 350z's looks never appealed but again, I have thought about whether it'd be a fun more common rwd car for me?

Then I go back to my multiple 90's cars and think fck off brain, these are cool.

Still annoyed I never bought an evo 5 when they were 12-15k! 

But yeah, pretty much anything that feels like it has had its heyday and manufacturers aren't going make anything like it ever again due to emissions and regulations etc. So anything with a real manual gearbox and performance/rwd/awd plus the more 'special' fwd's from the late 90's early 2000's. 

I say special because some just never had a following, like the st202 Celica (or any fwd Celica). The GT4's sure, but the fwd 3sge was still a good solid car. I just don't think it ever had the same popularity of the fwd 4age stuff, that 4age stuff I think will appreciate. The ae92/101/111's were all fun cars but even the ae111 is becoming rarer to see.

I mean how cool was it that Toyota put ITB's on a mass produced easily obtainable car? I don't think we'll see that again.

Car's that haven't yet but I reckon will:

AE101 GTZ

Caldina GTT

300zx manual's NA or Turbo

350z is already starting to increase

Subaru anything manual and turbo'y

BMW's anything manual

Anything after 2005 is still too new and depreciating.

11 hours ago, Dell'orto said:

I mean, almost the same. Just totally different haha

Lol I guess my memory isn't that good. Blue/Celica...same/same.

I guess I'm going to be banned, but @Dell'orto mmmm boost?

I've changed the power feed wires to the coils to a much bigger gauge all the way from the relay to coil plug pins. Thought maybe there could be resistance that got worse with heat?

Made no difference at all.

Still bloody fun to drive though...

Maybe its something to do with the earthing? I have a huge list of things I've tried so far, one day I'll crack the bastard.

----------------

Bought a battery cut off switch thing ages ago so since I desperately need to be doing sanding on the mx5, I made this:

I cut the power cable which goes to the battery behind the passenger seat and crimped on some lugs so it joins here.

Made a basic plate out of aluminium and covered it in fake carbon wrap because it looks fast.

Decided to have it set back a bit so there is plenty of room for gearshifts.

It isn't actually finished, I was planning to drive it to work today but it was late and freezing. Just need to drill mounting holes then connect the cables and insulate etc.

On 16/07/2021 at 07:51, Mr Vapour said:

One thing to look at is the gun. They are normally junk. 

Have a look at BNP guns. Machinary house has a bnp copy. 

https://www.machineryhouse.co.nz/3SC0300

Original 

https://clemcoindustries.com/products/blast-cabinets/blast-cabinet-accessories/bnp-suction-blast-guns/

 

My gun shat itself, its the one that came with the Machinery Warehouse unit.

The threaded cap that holds the ceramic tip on the gun had gotten jammed on, and refused to come off. Applied a bit too much force to it trying to get it loose and it split down the side.

I guess some garnet got stuck in the thread or it got cross threaded. Who knows.

So now I need to figure out what kind of gun to get to replace and upgrade it. It was never great, I realised that I could feel air leaking from the trigger too. I've seen the same gun design on Ebay for $20 or so, so its probably a mass produced crappy tolerance thing.

I had a look at the BNP copy that Mr Vapour suggested above and not sure it would suit my setup. It needs a pedal and tips so would be close to $200 all up. Do I need to spend that much for home use?

I have a decent 2.5hp Ingersoll Rand twin piston belt drive jobby with a big tank. But I get the feeling it won't be enough for a gun like that BNP one?

Any suggestions?

On 10/09/2021 at 14:45, chris r said:

Honda k series Injectors 

Overall length about 65mm

Measured the jzx100/1jz injectors and they are about 10mm longer than those Honda ones. So not much in it, the stock bike ones must be super short.

But it'll be easy enough to make up some spacers for the mounts or to lengthen the mounts.

Also, turns out that the fuel rails are a mirror image of each other so if I turn the 'back' rail around, the mounts line up fine with the 'front/main' fuel rail position, giving me an inlet and an outlet. So all I need is an inline regulator.

You can see here that the mounts at the back in different positions, but its just a reversed/flipped rail. Bonus!

The squirty end does sit a little far back though, will have to test and see if its a problem. These Toyota injectors should give a wide spray pattern, rather than a straight one.

Just sitting on the engine doing some measuring. Looks cool though:

On 24/08/2021 at 11:21, ~Slideways~ said:

It does fit with the behaviour of stopping when it drops to idle doesn't it?

Good thinking, I hadn't thought of that connection.

I just need an essential driving pass now haha

Bugger, still does it.

13 minutes ago, Themi said:

Sorry ~Slideways~ for hijacking the thread - spun off into my own one here about the ZL-VE head.

I'll be watching your progress too!

You should be sorry, now I'm getting scope creep...

1 hour ago, Themi said:

Really tough to say.

ZLVE has 96kW@7000rpm 141Nm@4000rpm with 1.5L and 9.4:1 comp
B6DE has 90kW@6500rpm 136Nm@5500rpm with 1.6L and 9.4:1 comp

My thinking was that higher displacement with the benefits of the ITB's and VVT will pull that peak torque lower, which is by far my biggest complaint of the 1.6L mx5. Additional responsiveness would be nice.

Your gsxr ITB setup will be cool - bike throttles are probably the way to go and those look to be a very good bore size for the engine. I can attest the Speeduino is a good platform with lots of support. Look forward to seeing where that car goes.

Just the fact that the 1.5L makes more power and more torque (earlier) is a good sign.

Will the head change the compression ratio?

10 minutes ago, chris r said:

Honda k series Injectors 

 

Awesome thanks for that, I'll hopefully be able to do some measuring tonight.

Fuck yeah! I wonder how much effect the VVT will have?

15 minutes ago, Themi said:

Someone sent me a screenshot of your discussion regarding a 1.5l ZL-VE vvt head on the b6 block. Well, I did it and will say it is a lot of hassle. Fun learning process but heaps of work. I've got videos of it running, currently sitting nfg in the garage due to lack of funds/time/motivation. I've got a second head sitting nearby which was going to get new valves, cams sent for regrind etc.

If you are actually interested in the process there are so many things I learned along the way which I wish I knew before I started and would be happy to share.

It took 4age itb's to replace the intake which faces the wrong way, new exhaust manifold because the stock one points straight down, new cooling setup as it was fwd, all wiring was different, oil feed had to be changed from the one in this picture too.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/11gpFfCK5PV8uKShx7Vq8-_dCq--VkD4v/view?usp=sharing

Note in the video that the low idle screw was unwinding hence why it starts bogging. It was also not tuned at all.

Running it on a Speeduino too, UA4C from WTMtronics.

Awesome! The head looks so narrow in the engine bay! 

Really interested to see what sort of performance gain you get when its tuned. I'll persevere with the B6 head for now, funny though because the ZL and ZM heads could basically be like a majorly ported B6. I've seen the gasket comparisons of port size and its huge!

EDIT: you should make a build thread about your car?

Thanks guys, definitely an option having a reg/pump setup.

Also brazing an outlet onto the bike fuel rail.

Alternatively once I am decent at Fusion 360 I could try make the factory injector port into the 3d printed manifold/adapter.

On that, amazingly I found a someone has uploaded a GrabCAD model of the intake manifold for the 1.6 'Miata'. This saves heaps of time. The format was a SLDPRT which the free version of Fusion 360 cannot import, so I used the desktop version of GrabCAD workbench to save it as a few different formats.

A STEP file format worked and I had something usable in Fusion 360.

I was playing around with Fusion 360, what an awesome tool!

Spent about 1.5hrs playing around with it and had something resembling an adapter to fit the bike ITB's. Then the laptop/fusion crashed lol... 

This is what it looked like when it froze and didn't come back. oh well... good practice.

13 hours ago, chris r said:

What length do the injectors need to be? I have some honduh ones which look to be shorter and may work

I'll measure them and see, would be good to know so I can maybe grab something from PaP.

Back at work now so see you in 6 months 

18 minutes ago, shrike said:

Can you run a deadhead system for the fueling? and have the regulator at the back? (obviously it wouldn't be vacuum referenced unless you run a vac line)

Guessing one rail has a feed? can you use the output of that rail as a return?

Yep the first rail has the inlet and an outlet which feeds the main rail. The first rail has different mounts and those injectors are before the throttle plates.

The first set of throttle plates which I've removed are not usable as the main/only t/b's because they don't seal properly (big gap around the circumference). Probably only used for the bikes for bottom end.

If I do use it, the easiest option is just to weld it.

This arrived today, its in the long term plan but it came up for a good price so here we are.

It's from a 06/07 model GSXR600

To simplify it I'll remove the first set of throttle plates and try use the GSXR fuel rail, didn't come with injectors but will see what I can do. It has twin rails and 8 injector ports. Will block off the first set etc.

Thinking of respraying my mx5. Its currently silver and ruined by stickers pulling the clear off and scratches/dents etc. 

Looking at painting it Yellow like the Toyota Aqua. Its kind of orangey, but I like it.

Unsure if to go with base coat with 2k clear or just go for 2k colour.

I think the clear with be more work but is it better for colour UV resistance etc?

It's not a show car and will be a home job.

Will test it in Level 3. Having been sanding the MX5.

Here is a photo of the weird fuel pump fuse failure.

It's inside the cabin and no chance to get wet, its parked in the garage and has been in use for almost 2 years and 1000's of km's. Has it been a bad contact for all of that time causing the metal to break down/corrode?

On 20/08/2021 at 20:31, chris r said:

Could the random miss be fuel supply issues due to the the burnt fuse holder? Going back down to idle let's pressie build back up? 

 

Do you have logging of fuel pressure when it's playing up? 

It does fit with the behaviour of stopping when it drops to idle doesn't it?

Good thinking, I hadn't thought of that connection.

I just need an essential driving pass now haha