~Slideways~

12 minutes ago, shrike said:

Shame Speeduino doesn't have DBW options currently or you could get some Motorbike ITBs like Roman 

Wasn't there a guy on here who built a mx5 with a later model head and high compression?

My bike ITB's actually did have a DBW set up but it was on the 2nd set of throttles which simple don't seal like the 'real' set do. 

Yep there is, he's got a build thread too. Really cool swap, I reckon it'd need a cert simply because it looks like a different engine though. Probably the same with ITB's too unless you have a real lenient wof place. 

20 hours ago, Roman said:

Needs a speeduino, using some fuel cut decel and lean burn strategies and it'll pay for itself pretty quick  

I've been wondering about this recently, the cost of ecu + tune versus fuel saving based on the 30 year old tech/tune (no oxygen sensor and basic AFM, non-variable TPS etc). 

I'll hopefully be back to dailying my 1.6 MX5 within the next few months after I paint it. But the funny thing is its worse on fuel than my 2L 3sge Celica (St202 with acis, which seems to work pretty well) for the same drive. I thought maybe it was just because of the way I drove the MX5, but a work mate here has had a few and he reckons they are all surprisingly thirsty.

I have a Speeduino to go in, whether I do that with the stock intake or with ITB's I'm not sure. It would be interesting to see what sort of fuel economy increase I could get.

They have a lowish 9.4:1 compression ratio so it would be worth shaving the head too.

7 hours ago, Mattwho? said:

Have a look at the BIQU H2 Extruder Hotend combo, can get them to run hot prints and should be fine for Carbon Nylon. Just installed mine and its great.

https://www.biqu.equipment/products/biqu-h2-v2-0-extruder

Love the build, exactly what I want to do with my NA8.

 

 

Thanks man, although I've ordered a Mellow one from Aliexpress already, should hopefully be good.

This one:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33035870412.html?spm=a2g0o.order_detail.0.0.622cf19cELrdsv

I reckon the NA8 would definitely need some bigger ITB's, maybe from a 1000cc bike but the idea is the same. I was tempted to put a 1.8 in mine but I like the way the 1.6 revs (its probably just the smaller flywheel to be honest but....).

Finished modelling the other side of the intake adapter thing and printed with a finer quality, took over 24hrs to print!

Also added an adhesion layer to help with lifting around the edges which worked great. Easily removed afterwards too.

Got some strange stringing/hairy bits but only on the middle two faces, not sure why. Internally its perfectly smooth.

Both together to make the complete manifold, you can see the print quality difference:

Lines up nicely with the ITB's

Looking at getting an all metal hot end for the printer and a hardened steel tip so I can try print it with Carbon Fibre Nylon filamnet. Trying to decide which filament to use, there are quite a few variations to look, I guess what ever handles the heat best. 

Put some high build primer on it:

On 18/02/2022 at 11:38, sheepers said:

its worth it though.

when all the painting is finished and you can stand back and admire.

then you get to take all the masking off and see all the places where you missed and there's overspray all over everything.

 

ahhh, happy days. 

Don't jinx me man!

Man how does masking take SO long? It's like a black hole, there's hours in this!

Any updates on this?

Back to 3d modelling, Fusion 360 is great but man I was pulling my hair out a bit with stuff just not doing what it was supposed to, it's totally the software and not me being a novice...

I have some screenshots of the modelling but on the other computer. Here are some photo's of the finished test print (one half of the manifold).

First test print a couple of hours in:

Storm happens and takes out power to 3500 houses, so my print stopped. Just left it and when power came back on a few hours later it said it stopped unexpectedly and do I want to continue the job?

I thought, why not give it a go its only a test print.

The first problem was the head had melted a blob where is stopped so I snipped it off and then it moved to the outer edge and just started printing again!

Came back a while later to this lol

Pulling more bits off:

It's all of the details that take so much time, the sanding just never ends.

Lifted up this bit of trim with some weedeater line underneath to keep the gap.

Had some time to do more on this, removed trim and lights and more sanding/filling.

Got my 7 year old to help with the tool kit he got for Xmas which was cool.

Slowly getting there, thought I'd be here 3 months ago 

Thought the bonnet was straight 

Bought new genuine Toyota TPS.

The one that came off doesn't have any markings which is interesting. 

Old on left and new on the right:

Put it on and drove it to work which is about 40min, trying to make it misfire, was perfect the whole drive. Thought it was solved.

Drove it home and it misfired twice. Same behaviour. 

I guess I can cross it off the list though?

Here it is again around 6.7%

Not sure it's enough to cause the misfiring but it does seem to be around where I've been experiencing the problem. Doesn't explain why when it's misfiring it still does it with more rpm and no load, but stops as soon as it drops to idle. 

Hmm interesting, looking at the TPS log it sometimes does this around 7% throttle.

But only sometimes.

It seems to be around 7% throttle, which is probably around where it would be to maintain speed at 50kph.

It's only a 0.2% fluctuation, but anywhere else it's rock solid.

You can see I changed to just above 8% and it's a straight unfluctuating line. 

I tried a few times and sometimes it's accurate but when it fluctuates it stays like that.

This is without the engine running.

A new TPS is quite expensive because it's unique to this cable throttle vvti motor. Still available though.

Came out pretty good, not perfect but much better than it was, difficult to paint on the hoist but it's wof'd again.

On 22/11/2021 at 18:45, Chris.QCR said:

Tercel Dude !!!!

Jinx?

Saw this yesterday:

On 31/10/2021 at 16:35, mjrstar said:

Careful on the bigger front bar. My mx5 had snapped the tinware (lightweight folded section) that the shackles bolt to. 

Good advice, maybe I can weld on some strengthening bits.

On 14/09/2021 at 16:02, ~Slideways~ said:

 

Any suggestions?

 

Oh hey 2-months-ago-me.

Buy one of these from Supercheap Auto, pretty good bang for buck without having to change anything else:

 https://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/p/blackridge-blackridge-air-sand-blast-gun-kit/340382.html#q=sandblasting&lang=en_NZ

Again I should be sanding but I put some bigger sway bars on front and back instead.

Whiteline rear, need to change the links because they don't quite line up right as you can see in the photo. Should be a big upgrade from the pencil thin factory sway bar:

I've removed that rusty lower brace to sandblast and paint.

Bought a new sand blasting gun, its just a SCA 'Black ridge' jobby but the reviews were good and the design looked better. I definitely rate this highly for the money! Waaaay better than the Machinery Warehouse gun that came with my cabinet.

And the front is something or other brand, much heavier and thicker:

Should do some sanding now but my kids want to play with water pistols so I'll do that.

EDIT: meant to say how easy it was to install on both ends, easiest I've ever done. Nothing gets the in the way at all. I remember doing the rear sway bar on my old ae92 Trueno and it was a bastard of a time.

2 hours ago, ajg193 said:

You all think your cars are going up in value, but your dollar is just plummeting in value.

 

Even modern used cars are selling for stupid money now. Used Toyota 86's have gone up probably 25% this year.

Inflation is totally a thing and will be part of the equation, but its madness that old cars are tripling or quadrupling in value within 12 months. Shouldn't a new Corolla now be $120k if it was just the value of the currency dropping?