~Slideways~

Cool I didn't know this was a thing, where did you get it from?

The sound of the 5 1/4 drive reading those disks, like a time machine.

On 04/11/2023 at 08:31, Nominal said:

Dug up some old games on 5 1/4 floppys

 

So cool, I happen to show my 9 year old KQ3 over the weekend (and Doom, Wolf3d and Commander Keen) all on a 486 66mhz jobby.

I remember first playing KQ6 and was like, holy crap the graphics man!

I still want to finish KQ3 one day. I have save game files from 30 odd years ago. 

I find it quite impressive how many BYD's there are on the road in NZ now, since it was really an unknown brand a year ago. How much trust do people have in a brand they've never seen before?

I would happily own one if they prove themselves, but only after a few years of other people being the guinea pigs. (sorry flyingbrick, although being a lease its far less risky )

All of my cars are old, but an EV makes sense for the family car in a few years. Family car being a 15 year old Lexus GS350 that I've had for about 10 years/55,000 kms and all it needed was an alternator last year and brakes, I can't see MG or BYD doing that. So is it worth the terrible short trip fuel economy.... dunno.

2 hours ago, yoeddynz said:

No I know nothing about byd (except for apparently shite range... ) but I now know quote a bit about Chinese steel and paint quality on ldv vans. I'm still removing rot from this van.. 

 

 

Man how old can an LDV van even be? That looks like 40-50 years of rust to me!

Had to change the radius arm bushes for a wof, man what a bastard to get out.

I had this press frame from my wifes uncle years ago, never used it because it didn't come with a hydraulic ram or anything.

Now, it looks to me that it was designed to use a bottle jack, but from the bottom.

Bought a cheap 20T bottle jack, with the intention of modifying it to work upside down.

But it worked reasonably well as is, pretty awkward balancing it though.

At first it just pushed the rubber out and left the outer sleeve behind.

So I tried a few different things the same diameter as the outer sleeve but they all bent or crushed. That sleeve was not wanting to come out, so I cut a slot in it and chiseled it out.

Then I made a round plate the diameter of the outer sleeve, out of 10mm mild steel flat bar.

I thought that'd easily work.

Snapped one bolt in the frame, doesn't look like high tensile to me though.

Found some more better bolts.

Tried again and got one out with a loud crack each time it moved another 5mm.

Even bent the 10mm plate.

New Nissan Genuine bushes as well as the rear chassis/frame mount ones.

I made another 10mm plate with a hole in the centre for the centre sleeve to rest in while pushing against the outer sleeve.

They went back in nicely, super satisfying after the bastard it was to get the old ones out. 

Few hundred in bushes but it'll last another few decades hopefully.

EDIT: Wof man laughed and said he's done heaps of them and the press fittings get ruined after doing only a couple. Sometime you have to gas axe the bolts/bushes at the rear of the arm as well. So I guess I got off lightly.

EDIT2: yes my workshop is a mess. I'm reorganising while putting up more shelves... that's the excuse at the moment anyway.

Drove it to work today and man it feels great, these are such fun cars to drive. Just makes you want to heel toe down shifts everywhere like an idiot.

Also feels really good with the upgraded sway bars I put on just before starting the 'just fix that dent'.

Smaller Momo steering wheel is much nicer than the stock one and a bit more leg room. A bit harder at slow speeds with the manual rack.

EDIT: typos.

On 19/08/2023 at 18:34, crustywhip said:

Thd cars been there for years and I wonder if there's a sex swing in that garage. 

Garage door was rebuilt a while ago, so we'll never know re: swing.

Car is 'his baby' according to lady I spoke to. Unfortunately it's just going to get more rusty. Big hole in the rear quarter under glass so water has been getting in for years.

EDIT: it's been about 10 years now since I first saw it there and it looked sad then too.

1 hour ago, Vintage Grumble said:

Is Toyota full of it, or are they being fucking awesome as usual?

https://www.theguardian.com/business/2023/jul/04/toyota-claims-battery-breakthrough-electric-cars 

I do love me some Toyota but I have seen this talked about and apparently Toyota have been saying this for over 10 years. If you Google it they said we'd already have solid state batteries in consumer EV's back in 2020. Now its 2025 or 2027 depending where you read it.

Ford say they have one too and everyone keeps saying 'our new battery will blow everything away' etc etc.

I'm sure there are plenty of proto types, but the problem is making it viable on a large scale.

Fingers crossed all the lofty promises actually come true.

3 hours ago, locost_bryan said:

Ah, yes, I see the E-NV200 used the Leaf motor and front subframe but had a unique battery to fit under the load floor.  It's been replaced by the Townstar, a rebadged version of the Renault Kangoo.  Renault have the Kangoo E-Tech on their website as "coming soon", but no pricing.

Big difference is the e-nv200 actually has battery cooling unlike the Leaf. Apparently the batteries do much better because of this.

On 06/05/2023 at 08:52, kpr said:

Tuned a  1.5jz  with all the good bits on it the other day.  had those xpert injectors in it. maybe the 1350cc version, still a decap'd bosch either way.     was happily making over 400kw, no drama tuning it. 

you can also get the genuine 7 hole bosch injectors which are 980cc.  if dont want a modified injector

Yeah I am leaning towards just using the 1000cc Xpurts again. A few people have said they should be fine. I not sure what the problem was with them appearing to make it run rich at high rpm. Maybe it was number 4 not completing combustion or something similar?

I also ended up send the Link ECU back to Link in Christchurch to put it through their stress testing etc. It made sense since I had no explanation for the intermittent misfire. That GOD DAMN misfire I have been chasing for bloody years.

A few weeks later and I have had a reply stating:

Visual inspection revealed a solder blob between IGN5 and 14V NOT making a direct short circuit.

This could change under load +temperature+humidity ratio conditions.

Fault however could not be replicated on the bench.

Removed solder ball and tested ECU.

Passed functional stress test.

So not a certain cause but also a possible cause? All of this time and it may have been a manufacturing defect completely out of my control? ...fck.

That now leaves me with what to do.

I can't get new injectors, Toyota NZ confirm they are not available.

Next option is to get some Bosch 630cc's (from a known supplier, because fck that noise) so they still have a pintle cap for a proper spray pattern. I message the local guy and he is certain that I should just use the Xspurt 1000's that I originally did. He was going to talk to Chris at Prestige but haven't heard back yet.

I guess they do work, but not efficiently.

The other thing to sort was injectors, the st215 ones I had been using had cracks in the plastic of a few. Another 2 flowed 8-10% less than the others.

So I thought to keep it simple I will buy some brand new genuine denso/toyota injectors.

Found a seller on ebay with lots of good feed back, selling these exact injectors and stating 100% guarantee genuine.

They were $299 AUD, not $50 sets from Aliexpress. So I thought I was safe. About $400 NZD landed.

They arrived and many things pointed to being fakes. They even came in 'genuine' Toyota boxes.

In the end the most glaring was the pintle cap holes are rough compared to real ones.

I noticed the bar code looked very generic, i.e. repeating patterns which shouldn't happen.

I went back to the seller and they 'don't know what you are talking about' and 'I sell these to Toyota Service Centres in NSW'.

I even spoke to Mark at Toyota in NZ and he said the label was convincing but the number used was not correct. I tested a bar code reader on the cambelt I bought recently and the barcode matches the part number on the label, but these fake labels just display gibberish.

He has agreed to a refund and I have sent them back. 

So that was/is a pain in the arse to deal with but as long as Ebay's refund system actually work I should be ok. What a cnut though.

Another thing I wanted to change was the location of the second wastegate, it works but the vacuum line gets too hot. I've tried a few things to solve it but now that it's all out I will move the wastegate up and away from the heat. It means changing both ends of the wastegate but it'll be worth it.

Cut off:

Test fit on engine to see what I can do, it's easy enough to just raise it up but the hard part is making sure the exit doesn't get in the way of the brake master cylinder.

It was looking quite close so I ended up putting the engine back in so I can be sure. 

Bloody good to have it back in, but since I didn't have the pulley o-ring at this stage it still need the cam belt and pulleys etc.

Got TGP bits to finish that:

This water hard line points to the turbo down pipe, and gets in the way. It is the outlet for the heater, which is on the other side in the Nissan vs the Toyota.

So I cut it off and welded it up, plus jb weld to be sure.

Gives more clearance and simplifies the water lines by moving the hose to the other side of the engine. Normally the rest of the hard line is just to feed the oil cooling sandwich plate and the water feed to the idle stepper motor controller jobby. 

So I made a hole on that side which is under the intake manifold and much closer to the heater inlet on the firewall.

Welded on, yes it's coming from a smaller pipe but I don't think it'll cause too much problem with the heaters water flow. Also covered with a little JB Weld since I had it.

Remembered a while ago that I needed to replace the o-ring in the VVti pulley.

Toyota don't sell the o-ring, only a complete pulley.

I thought surely it can't be that hard to find a suitable one. There are a few people that sell nice Viton o-rings specifically for this but at $20 USD for the o-ring plus $40 to $160 postage (wtf 165??) I wanted to try source locally.

Golbey's in Aus sell one, but didn't specify if Viton or not. I asked and they confirmed it is only Nitrile, which isn't really suitable since it appear to only handle 100deg C. When Viton is 200ish.

Went to one of the local o-ring places, bought one that looked like it would work. Turned out to be slightly too thick. 

Then I found Seal Innovations' website has a search function where you can specify the ID and the width/thickness of the o-ring, plus the material. Found one that I thought would be perfect but it is out of stock, a week later they said it was now in the country but still being processed then it'll be sent to Wellington.

Long story short I picked it up yesterday and it looks to be a perfect fit. 

That held me up for about 3 weeks...I really should have looked into it earlier.

Here is the very perished and flat o-ring:

VVti pulley has locating grooves for all three gears, plus a match mark so is simple enough to put back together, just remember to mark the timing beforehand.

Got the long block back a while ago.

On 21/04/2023 at 12:07, Roman said:

Yeah theres a bunch of mark x at pickapart. 

Id not be surprised if all of the motors are fucked and thats why they are there. My motor had not that many kms and its so absolutely full of caked up shit. 

Id not be surprised if all these cars start going extinct around 200,000km.

Direct injection without port injection makes for a short lifespan.

 

I wonder if some periodic water injection would help?

On 03/04/2023 at 18:36, kpr said:

Ive pulled one of those (vvti pulley) apart a million times.   pretty basic. but can put the together backwards hah.     only thing i suggest doing is sitting it on the cam and making sure it freely rotates through tis whole travel. there isn't really anything that locates them central,  if get them a little off can bind up at at one end of the travel.   I usually put it on the cam and rotate it back and forward nipping up the bolts. 

Thanks man, good advice. They look super easy to assemble due to the match marks, but I think I know which part you mean (the smallest centre one) that can be put in backwards?

Don't suppose you have a source for the correct o-ring maybe?

I've been to the local o-ring supplier and I did buy two that were closest but I don't think they are going to work now. One is Viton but slightly too thick, it needs to be worked/stretch like all of those rebuild videos do, it then fits the groove but sits too high with not enough room to compress/expand.

The other fits perfectly but is Nitrile so rated to only 100 degrees. So not really good enough.

Shipping is insane from overseas for the ones listed on Amazon etc. Like $40 shipping for one o-ring!? Goleby's in Aus have a listing but it doesn't say if it is Viton, so I've messaged them to see. Hopefully that isn't as ridiculous for shipping.

12 minutes ago, Nominal said:

Keen on rescuing another fibreglass orphan @~Slideways~?

1978 Other Escartus | Trade Me Motors

Haha I think that will be an even harder task to get registered again! I wonder how it ended up like that?