~Slideways~

You can have it for 5 if you pick it up by 5 tonight

Deal!

I have a breakdown of costs from Stacked somewhere if you're interested.

 

Though based on the last few cars I've imported, allow around $3000 on top of the purchase price for agency and FOB costs, transportation fees, shipping, and Customs/MAF charges at this end. Not including compliance!

 

I used Autohub last time, they were the easiest to deal with and had flat rate shipping, plus all customs charges were rolled into their final fee.

Yep that'd be awesome thanks. Have you actually used Stacked, or would you recommend someone else? Were you able to get compression tests etc?

If anyone feels like taking a gamble, one of the Autohub affiliates has this bog standard automatic low-km 1992 FD3S for sale.

 

Check out that FOB price (in US$)! Add shipping to NZ and you're away laughing. Then manual convert that shit.

 

http://www.findjapancars.com/used-mazda-rx-7-1235966.html

By Zeus that's cheap!

Although based on your $3k estimate for shipping etc, plus $3k for the car (cheaaap). Then a guess at $1000 for parts alone: gbox, pedal box, slave etc etc. 

An extra $300 if you want to stuff around with getting the manual gauge cluster to work (no idea if its a plug in job).

Then Compliance costs, lets say $1000 to cover misc bits?

Now its a $8500 car.

Still pretty cheap... but only saving $2k on a cheap manual one here.

...............unlessss

Buy car, leave auto, compliance, register. Take low km's 13b out, scrap auto = cheap registered shell for LS1.... hmmmm

Yeah obviously plug in ECU's are designed for stock controls, but they can be configured to run whatever. There is a G4 RX plug in now, be the best option. Fuck twins, go for a decent single and you'll never look back. Remember rotaries produce lots of exhaust energy, so large turbos are very streetable

5-6km per litre of 'exhaust energy'   

Got a reply from 'Stacked Ltd' the place that Ewan/Hayatonka guy merged with. Not much info, just a link to Yahoo Auctions. Have gone back asking for estimates of their costs, shipping and what kind of checks they can do (hoping they can go as far as compression testing).

The 20 year rule also exempts cars from all current emissions laws.

 

I get the feeling NZTA will do something about it soon, to prevent a billion mid '90s Japanese imports flooding back onto the market.

This frog dude is correct, found that stated on the NZTA site (which is different to some other RX7 forum):

Entry certifiers check the vehicle's compliance with emissions standards as part of assessing a vehicle for registration for use on New Zealand roads.

You may not have to prove your vehicle complies with this requirement, if:

• it is more than 20 years old

The SIV means you have to keep it for a certain number of years once it has been first registered, dealers import them, you buy and your first owner so no problem there

I knew that it has to be in your name for a few years for SIV but I didn't realize dealers could still register them (with a listed expiry date) before there is an 'owner'.

Like this auction saying 'Be the first owner' so it looks like it hasn't actually been registered yet then (NOREG plate):

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/mazda/auction-742958402.htm

But then this one (1992) has just been complied and is not a dealer?

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/mazda/auction-718885699.htm

Looking into importing a bit more and it looks like a S6 FD3S shouldn't actually be able to be complied for NZ roads. Even though its 20+ years old this only means its exempt from the frontal impact laws but from what I've read it sound like they should fail on emissions?

I must be wrong though since there look to be a few dealers still importing 1992/3/4 RX7's and registering? They can't be SIV's since they are suppose to be under the owners name for at least 2 years (something like that).

Anyone know more about this?

useless info, butt in, if keeping the stock twin turbos, define go non sequential, gets rid of all the crap and makes it so much more reliable and less parts to go wrong and intermittent problems, dont know why they didnt do it in the factory from the beginning

but yeah single is so much better again

Sounds like an interesting plan, also keeps it looking semi stock (well less obvious than single), might even be able to avoid another certification. Would be my fourth 

I've emailed that Ewan guy to see what he says. Told pregnant wife about this 'plan', fully expecting her to lean over and push me out the drivers door on the motorway. But she just acknowledged that I was talking about 'car stuff' at her.

What ECU options are there which would be suitable for removing all of the troublesome electronics? I assume the plug in's would be designed to use the factory sensors etc?

Or would I be budgeting an extra $2k for ecu?

Man so in that example the LS1 is actually closer to 50/50!

13b weight without manifolds is only 100kg dont think an LS could bet that + 13beeee mounts up behind strut towers

That maybe true but everything bolted to it is going to weigh more than you think. I wouldn't be surprised if it you could get it pretty close. LS1 is alloy block and heads, even has plastic intake manifold.

So if you take out a 13b, two turbo's, exhaust manifold, intake manifold and extra junk like A/C compressor, lines, condensor, intercooler and plumbing, ducting, air box etc etc and 3 tons of vacuum hoses. 

Plus move that massive battery from so far forward and centre it in the back, then take a big poo for further weight reduction.

Then put in a LS1 and no A/C crap. It seems totally feasible to me.

But yes the 13b's weight would be mostly further back.

curious to know any advantage of getting the smallport head and opening up the ports. would you not end up with a port size similar to a blue top ??

however, i have heard of smallport being reduced in size to increase port velocity

The 'Big' in Bigport is the inlet ports, its not possible to make a smallport as big as a bigport. The bigport was just far too big, that's why Toyota made the TVIS butterflies to block off half of the port to increase velocity in the lower revs and opens up at 4200rpm (from memory). But they dropped it all in favour of the smallport.

The Smallport is the better head for NA. Even turbo wise they work well compared to bigport, I've had both turbo'd and the smallport spooled far better. 

There is a guy on Toyspeed who made the smallport's ports even smaller and got good results. It was in a off road racer from memory.

S6's use a massive block of hoses to control all the solenoids etc, S7 and 8 use block which houses the majority, much less complex. Dash clusters change between each series, and make progressively more power, with the non base S8's rated at 280hp stock. S8 is the sexiest by far, and they'd ironed most of the bugs out by then. There's been one on TM for about 3 months or so down in Greymouth for $17k, but its too modified for my taste

Not too much of a major then with the hoses, shouldn't be too hard to replace the nest with new hose?

What are all of the solenoids actually doing, I assume some of it will be for the 2nd turbo.

I really like the lines of the S6, not a big fan of the later front bumper design. The early 'rounded' front with a simple lower lip is what I'd want.

Have been looking at a few video's online and kind of leaning towards staying rotary if I do get one as my next project... strangely the reason being the LS1 actually sounds a bit boring through out the rev range... bit of a silly reason since the all alloy lightness, torque and relative simplicity are why I was thinking about it. Best way I can describe it is LS1's just sound...dull? Even at 6500rpm its not an exciting sound at all. In fact my 1JZGTE Vvti sounds glorious at 7000rpm (prefer it to any 2JZ I've heard) but I'd be worried about weight in an FD.

Man that's going to be a HUGE BITCH!

Going to be fckn heavy too with the amount of bracing needed to stop it from banana'ing from its own weight over time or even leverage with a long over hang.

I have a pretty big heavy duty trailer which is around 6m long and that's a pain to get into my tight driveway. 

But you must have a good reason for wanting it to be so long?

They are allergic to anything but a rotary under the bonnet and will cause you no end of trouble if you do an engine swap.

It's on the Internet so must be true?!

S6's are sooooo damn cheap ex Japan now (look at TM with all the dealers!) but I don't know if I am quite unstable enough to handle two FD's!

Also neighbours would look at me funny with 3 KE70s and 2 FD's

I've been thinking about importing a S6 based on the 20 year old thing. Register it as standard car, drive it for a while then take the engine out and start the long term LS1 project. 

What are the issues with S6 that people are referring to? Is it just an age thing with engine loom/sensor issues or were there other worth while improvements with the S7 and S8?

the problem here is noone builds a block to only run this power level.

As been already said, good rebuild on a stock block will run this power very easily with the right turbo/ecu.

Add a few more clearances and a bit more of a port to a decent stage, couple dowels and you'll net 500hp on a super reliable block.

But as with anything, and especially with rotors is it comes down to the tune. A reliably built block can still lunch a seal due to bad tune as a dodgy block can last long time on a good tune.

Cheers for the reply, I know these engines get a very bad wrap but I can see the benefit of sticking with a 13b and doing it 'right' as well as not being too greedy with power. Famous last words right?

I just had a trawl through TM for FD3S's and came across one saying they spent $15k on a rebuild on what appears to be otherwise stock. Is this realistic, surely this is more than just a basic freshen up? I suppose it could have needed new rotors etc...

The temptation of an LS1 is based around simplicity and reliability, plus something a bit different. But I'd definitely be open to sticking with how Mr.Mazda intended it.

As cool as LS1 FD's are, you won't build one for close to what you can have a rotary powered one for.

With a very rough guesstimate, Buying an FD for $10k (it could happen), selling 13b/box/loom/ecu for maybe $3500 at best. I come out with $21,000 for a certed, LS1 (not rebuilt) with cam upgrade and ECU reflash (holden ecu). Doing all of the spanner work myself with a bought mount kit.

Not touching suspension or wheels.

So yes, an easy $5-10k more than an 'okay' FD3S.

no porting necessary on a rew. I have never paid anyone to build a motor so I can't help you on that, but my point was if you re built a 13b to stock specs then you would achieve you power goal and have it reliable. I would say that if you bought a good running 13b rew you could freshen it up for 2k worth of parts.

Cool thanks, even though it sounds like its not necessary for 300kw as a peak figure. What about power delivery, will porting produce better power band? Earlier or later spool? All top end or across the board?

That's cool but when it needs a rebuild (possibly straight away) what sort of cost is there to do it properly with a reputable builder, possibly with any known 'best to do it' upgrades such as better apex seals etc (but not stuffing around with porting etc.).

 

On that note, is porting necessary for a 300kw engine? If so what sort of extra cost? i.e. extra $1000 on top of rebuild?

I'm just doing this as a rough cost analysis of comparing LS1 + T56 + mount kit + wiring + cert VS sticking with the rotary but budgeting for a rebuild.

My next project needs to be something very different to any I've already had or built. Which brings me to LS'ing an FD, but in saying that I've never driven or owned a Rotary. I need to sit in an FD to see what it's like for a 6ft driver (I had an S14 with sunroof which would have never fit with a helmet. Even my AE92 GTZ I needed to make very low rails in order to fit with a helmet and Racetech 1000.

A stock motor will do 300kw all day.

That's cool but when it needs a rebuild (possibly straight away) what sort of cost is there to do it properly with a reputable builder, possibly with any known 'best to do it' upgrades such as better apex seals etc (but not stuffing around with porting etc.).

On that note, is porting necessary for a 300kw engine? If so what sort of extra cost? i.e. extra $1000 on top of rebuild?

I'll most likely own an FD in the next few years, most likely with pistons but as an alternative (strange calling it an alternative) can anyone shed some light on the cost of building a "reliable" 13B in NZ? Just the block, not including turbo/ecu etc.

I'm talking 250-300kw weekend and track day car. 

I've seen all kinds of numbers ranging from $5k through to $10k+ 

Out of interest have you had any issues with filling the cam covers with oil and pushing out the breathers with constant high revs on the track?

I've had years of this, trying many things to try stop it, have spoken to a lot of people with 16v 4age's have the exact same problem. Ranging from a guy with a smallport lotus 7, Andre at STM, myself with 4agze ae86 and both fwd bigport and smallport turbo 4agze etc etc.

I don't see any extra breathers on yours, do you have this issue at all? 

Name:  Gavin
Location: Wellington
Cars you own: AE92 Trueno GTZ, Y60 Safari, JZX100 Chaser, AE82 FXGT
Mods to them (can be brief or detailed): 

Trueno: Stripped interior, 214kw 4agte, Racetech seat, Coil overs, 4 sets of wheels/semi's etc. Cert.

Safari: TD42 with turbo conversion, fuel increase, bar work, 33's and 35's, raised 3", drop boxes, rear locker, LED spots f/r. Cert. (box of bits to fit yet - ST205 w2a intercooler, Water met injection, 3" exhaust)

Chaser: Daily, 3" exhaust, K&N panel filter, 17x9 RPF1's. Factory boost made 170kw. Bought a Apexi SAFC 2 for a rainy day.

FXGT: Side project, fitting another bigport and tidying it up. 

Link to pics:

Donor:http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq244/Slideways70/37CC2FFE-7C40-43E1-9F90-41EB988F7190-6015-00000E8516A280F4_zps9f735069.jpg

Safari:http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq244/Slideways70/08857E80-4324-43E0-AB3B-C1A504793CDF-2499-000005EC59506CE9_zps1520d611.jpg

FXGT: http://s452.photobucket.com/user/Slideways70/media/5EDC2E23-1105-4063-B156-E39A7B466196-1685-000003BC69216EB1_zps96585bc6.jpg.html

Chaser: http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq244/Slideways70/IMG_2480_zpsba960c88.jpg

Trueno: http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq244/Slideways70/sunset.jpg

How you found out about oldschool: The Googles. Signed up when I had an AE86 (AE92 plus BJ73) that I had for around 7 years. Sold around 5 years ago.

Anything else you want to add: Joined Oldschool because its has lots of interesting content and active members plus is well maintained. Old stuff interests me, not just cars. But when it comes to cars I've come to the conclusion that I've gotta have 'em all, like metal pokemon.

I got them fairly cheap ($310 each including fitting) so will see how they go

That is cheap. To be honest my mate was very hard on his which would have limited their life, they were good tyres.

Did they balance well? I've got some 35" Creepy Crawlers which are hilariously hard to balance  

Got my new 35x12.5x15 federal couragias fitted. Anyone tried them before?

 

Also rebuilding the front axle in my hilux again

Mate had these in 33" they worked well in Wellington clay and rock. Surprisingly quiet on the road for MT's compared to all that I've had. They do seem to wear pretty quick though.