~Slideways~

8 minutes ago, smokin'joe said:

spot prime with wee compressor, but do the full top coats with decent (12CFM +) compressor, even it you have to  borrow/hire you won't regret it. wee compressors with wee tanks create to much water and will screw your paint ( even with water trap)

Interesting info about the water building up with a smaller tank. I have two, one is a small 2hp unit and the other is a 2.5hp direct drive with a 40L tank so reasonably big, but won't be anywhere near 12cfm. 

22 minutes ago, Adoom said:

Did it get hot enough? I used the oxy acetelene when I did mine.

Yep, it worked perfectly and didn't take long to melt either. Only problem at first was a small hole that the solder leaked out of. Tapped the hole closed then it was fine, its never coming off. Whole lot cheaper than buying a big ass crimping tool!

Putting the toys into hibernation while we were away:

I decided to buy a Type X body kit for it, its NZ made.

Test fit on the driveway:

Its a bit of a mishmash of fibreglass:

- Genuine Origin Labo +55mm rear quarters

- 'Car Wonder' +30mm front guards (Japanese brand)

- Type X front, side skirts and rear ...uhh skirts?

- Rocket Bunny (replica) rear ruck tail wing

Test fit bumper and lip, just hanging there. 

Exhaust:

Is now complete, finally! Took forever because I couldn't make noise when the boy is sleeping and it involves so much cutting, test fitting and cutting more etc etc. Plus it was difficult to have a 3.5" flexi and 3.5" pipe to fit where Nissan never intended an exhaust to be since it's on the wrong side with the 1JZ.

But I managed to continue from the 3.5" down pipe with a v-band to 3.5" flexi still above the chassis rail and kept 3.5" to almost behind the drivers seat. After that it's a reducer down to 3" then joining up to a modified stainless 3" rear section that came on the imported/crashed 180sx parts car. I only have to shorten that and weld on a flange to make it point to the drivers side.

Also welded in an o2 sensor bung in the only place I could fit it and be far enough away from the turbo as per instructions. Worked out well because it's easily accessible to remove and re-calibrate the sensor.

I was a bit iffy about using the big cannon thing, but was amazed how well it worked. I guess that extra baffle chamber jobby does its job (Japanese quality stuff?), its very quiet at idle and sounds awesome revving. Not quite as awesome as revving it with nothing but a downpipe haha.

AFR's:

Since I have fitted a bigger Holset HX35 turbo which will flow a bunch more than the factory CT15B would and that I am running the factory ECU (later an Air fuel controller because I already had it). I bought an Innovative MTX-L Air Fuel Ratio gauge so I could check to see what it is doing, at first I will run it at 7psi because that is the lowest spring I could use in the wastegates. Then adjust boost until it is happy (without Air Fuel Controller yet), I have a set of 14psi springs if it is happy with that.

It looks lean at idle which is to be expected I guess.

Fuel:

Re AFR's, depending on how it runs I can fit some bigger injectors from a 2jzgte as well as fit the Apexi Super Air Fuel Controllers II (why does that name have to be so long?)

Progress! Not as much as I'd hope, I had 3 weeks off but most of it was spent away to go to a wedding and other such social stuff like "Christmas" and "Lawn Mowing". Also known as "Not working on race car time".

Before going on leave I had grand plans of actually driving the car down the street (private street...). But stuff just takes forever and the time to spend on it is limited.

Anyway.

Wiring:

-  S13 oil warning light is now working.

- Alternator is wired with fuses etc and charge cable made. (need to fit a 100Amp fuse since s13 one is 75Amp).

- Battery charge/Alternator warning is working

- AGM 'motorbike' battery mounted behind passenger seat.

- Cut battery cables to length and connected terminals/lugs with totally legitimate method of connecting lugs:

There are two cables, one from battery behind passenger seat (where rear seat base would be) along trans tunnel, through firewall connecting to Starter Motor positive terminal. Then a second cable running through engine bay to the main fusebox and Alternator charge cable.

- Found 1J ECU pins for check engine but haven't tried yet.

- Traced 'Tach' wiring from ignitor plug to a plug by ECU but not for the ecu, tried testing with s13 gauge but not getting any reading. I thought I would at least get an inacurate reading, but nothing.

- Set up an adjustable Davies Craig thermatic switch for the twin rad fans. Works perfectly.

- Also have s13 water temp gauge working with the 1jz sensor. Reading looks good too.

Wheels:

- Decide to sell my RPF1's, I kept these from another car I sold. But the offset wasn't suitable for this and the Nissan 4 pots without running spacers etc. 

A photo of wheels that I no longer own haha, because I liked them and want another set wider and more offset:

Very nice build, that paint job is awesome. I still really want a MK1 2 door one day, I guess the long I wait the less there will be though.

I've seen a few of The Gunman's video and they are good, haven't seen the Devilbliss review. I am still thinking about an Iwata if I can find a good one second hand. Can't justify getting new.

I'm going to experiment with running type direct drive 'cheap' compressors and see what happens. 

Hey guys,

I'm contemplating spraying my race car project myself, mainly for money reasons and if successful it would be a good skill/equipment to have.

Have read lots here but have some questions.

Mask:

- Can any one suggest what kind of mask and filters I should use for home use?

Compressor:

- For something like am Iwata W400 or W101 with 1.3mm tip, from what I understand these only need 20-30psi at the gun. What kind of compressor is needed to run this?

I only have a Blackridge cheapy compressor (2,5hp 112l from memory) and another small 2hp one that I could possibly run both together, shouldn't be that hard. I'd probably run on separate circuits to no blow a fuse. Is this silly?

Paint for home use:

- What is best suited to a novice at home with a basic filter mask? 

- How much should I be paying for enough paint to cover the whole car in plain white. (s13 hatch) 

- The car already has nice white paint (pretty sure its not base with clear coat type) on front guards, bonnet and passenger door (not standard colour). Should I bother trying to get it matched?

Fibreglass:

- Do I need to worry about painting fibreglass? I've had rattle can mixed colour crack on a previous car on plastic bumper, but that was only when it was bent a bit.

Cheers

26 minutes ago, mlracing.co.nz said:

info@stacked.co.jp the way to go if you're not looking at purchasing from dealer auction

2nd'd or 3rd'd, great guys. I've imported two cars with them, both damaged so I can't give feedback on compliance stuff. 

Also Autohub are the way to go for shipping, the first one I imported wasn't through them, 2nd one was autohub shipping and it was so much easier.

2JZGE would be my choice for cost, reliable and power. Manual is a problem... what about an auto shift kit jobbie?

In saying that, the 2JZ is 25mm taller than the 1JZ so might not fit and also doesn't scream like a one either. 

Manual box is the hard part. I remember when researching stuff for my racecar there are adaptors to fit BMW gearboxes and Nissan CD009's which don't have Toyota tax.

I vaguely remember seeing a Triumph at PaP but their stock list doesn't have one... useful info is useful but would have been good to measure.

On 1/3/2017 at 8:27 PM, cletus said:

nah should be ok, may need some strengthening to make it as strong as it was originally

Cool thanks for the info, good to know its not a definite 'you're screwed' haha.

Hi, can you tell me if I'm up shit creek with a modified/cut radiator support on my 1990 NZ New S13?

This model was no airbag, no ABS and obviously over 20y/o.

It was like that went I bought the rolling body, but it works well since I have a long engine in there now. I do have a spare support that could be welded in, but it would make it very hard to fit a radiator and fan.

Similar to this (not my car) but less has been cut out:

I'm also in the 'wtf its a factory rb??' camp.

Very cool, like, want, etc.

Around 5 years ago I bought an ST206 Curren as a daily. Pleasantly surprised how good it was. 3SGE (180hp apparently), super strut suspension, LSD, good drivers position, big brakes etc etc. 

Think it was around $2500?

Was a surprisingly good car. It had some kind of body kit which made it actually look good too haha.

I cringed when you said wire in oil light.

Being all like. Dude you running thst with no oil gauge?

Progress is looking epic tho!

Don't worry I had it all running and driving in the donor car so I'm not worried about oil pressure. I also had the turbo feed off and cranked it with the no coils or fuel to make sure it was getting oil.

I haven't finished the wiring at all, the dash is still out etc so I can wiring the Ecu outputs to the factory gauge cluster next.

It will have an oil pressure gauge though yeah.

Drive shaft finished and installed.

Bought some stupidly expensive gear oil:

Installed newly TIG welded throttle body and newly bead rolled intercooler pipes:

Started it up to check for leaks and stuff. This is with no exhaust, just the 3.5" downpipe. Smoke is exhaust paint baking:

Don't seem to be able to embed the video here.... but:

http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq244/Slideways70/Mobile%20Uploads/589AE3F7-5AB3-43A9-BB9E-428BA2B6315D_zps0ffjimks.mp4

Also bought a second hand Air Fuel Ratio gauge, so I can see what its doing with the bigger turbo:

Plan is to run it on low wastegate(s) pressure of 7psi, then see what the AFR's are doing. Then see about installing the Apexi SAFCII I had for my old Chaser but never used.

Next thing to do is wire up rev counter, oil pressure light maybe speedo. Then a thermo switch for the radiator fans.

I now have the body loom back in the car and have the following hooked up and working:

- Headlights with HID kit (might go back to standard, doesn't appear to have low beam...)

- Pop ups are working (previous loom they weren't).

- Reinstalled heater and fans etc from donor car since most was missing including all wiring. All working and motors running to open flappy things. Also using later model digital controls.

ENGINE Sensors/Starter etc

- Found starter wire on body loom and now connected to Toyota engine loom and turns over with key.

- Coils and injectors are powered by Nissan relays and fuses.

FUEL:

- Rewired fuel pump to be controlled by the ecu pin which grounds when engine is running or cranking, wanted to do it like this instead of being always on with a key (so much easier). In case of fire and ruptured fuel line scenario. Took ages to figure out because the Toyota ECU has a built in Fuel Pump Resistor so the FPR pin only gives a low voltage to a relay, then gives full voltage under load (something like that, or maybe an rpm range?). So I opted to do it another way, but took a while figure out that there is a 'circuit opening' pin which is a switched ground. But it is working perfectly now. 

- Also used thicker gauge wire for fuel pump and used a relay in the boot to have very short wires.

- The relocated relay is using the existing factory TINY power feed and earth wires to instead for the relay trigger wires.

Gauges:

- Swapped in 180sx donor gauge cluster (race car shell had an S14 cluster for some reason).

- Traced wires to figure out: RPM, Speedo, warning light etc, etc signal wires on Nissan side. Strangely there is no Check Engine light on the gauge cluster, apparently it's on the ECU for SR20's?

So the engine starts with the key which is a nice milestone after so much time tracing wires etc to do it nicely. Sounds awesome, it was only a 5-10 quick run to make sure there were no leaks etc. I have the MAF duct taped to the still-to-be-welded throttle body since I haven't finished the intercooler plumbing yet.

Driveshaft:

- I've dropped the driveshaft off at Howat Engineering to have the Toyota bit stuck to the Nissan bit. Hopefully my measurements are good!

- Once I have that back I can fill the gearbox (probably Redline MT90) and it will be able to move under its own power for the first time! FCK YEAH!

Intercooler pipes and Throttle Body:

- Have cut the last bit of pipe so need a couple of beads rolled, I was going to make something but since I was going to Howat I'm getting them to do it instead.

- Also dropped off the throttle body to be TIG's together again after I'd cut the middle section out to shorten and remove the traction control T/B and motors etc.

Cooling:

- The donor jap import came with some cool bits, one of them was a Koyorad triple core copper radiator. So I'll be using this instead of the redline alloy one.

But I can't use the 1JZ thermo fan, so I went to pick a part and bought a Ford Mondeo twin fan and shroud. They are Seimens motors and apparently very good. It was about $35 so worth a try.

- With a bunch of trimming to the shroud it fits like a glove, the fan motor is a bit close to the water pump pulley but it'll be fine.

- I also simplified the wiring to remove the resistor so they run at full power straight away instead. 

- Still need to figure out how to control it, possibly a thermo switch. Or maybe just a manual switch for now.

Mondeo fans and shroud on S13 radiator.

DIFFS:

- Before measuring driveshaft stuff I swapped the diff and 5x1 half shafts. According to the Jap auction this is an aftermarket mechanical LSD, the one that came with the rolling body appears to be a viscous lsd.

- Both are 4.3-ish so should make it pretty lively compared to the Toyota having a 3.7 or a 3.9.

- The reason I swapped was one for the better diff and two to make sure they are the same lengths (ABS and non ABS diff are different lengths due to sensor location). Turns out they are the same length, but I was going to swap anyway.

- I was tempted to open it up and see what the LSD story was but due to time I left it. Maybe one day.

Comparing the diffs between the diffs... one has cool fins. The less finny one feels easier to turn, but they both turn both sides in the same direction. Time will tell if its really a proper mechanical or just a healthy viscous.

There was evidence that it has definitely been opened up before though, so that is promising.

Wiring, I decided to use the complete loom from the donor 180sx, basically because it was unmolested while the one in the NZ rolling body had been michael jackson'd too much.

The donor loom was from an auto (which was manualised) so it also has extra Auto carp.

So far I've removed all of the ABS wiring, ETC, ASCD, fuel pump resistor and contorl box. That's a LOT of wiring it must be a few kg's worth since it goes to all four corners via the main kick panel fuse box as well as the ABS computer.

Removed other wires for A/C and ETC.

It must be like 100m of wire so far and 3 buckets full of old black tape.

I've identified and labelled useful wires which will help be to power the Toyota ECU and to wire in the Walbro directly to the battery in the boot.

Here are some wires:

Keen to witness the whitewalls.

Will swing by and distract you.

I drove passed this on the weekend coming towards Tawa, definitely stands out. I was in our grey family car of modernness, which basically blends with the asphalt and becomes invisible.

If it was me i would heat shield the factory pipes rather than moving them inside the passenger compartment, ive never been a fan of having the fuel in the same space as the humans, even if it is allowed. Also making heat shields or using some of that sleeve type heat wrap over the pipes seems easier to me than re routing and attaching them correctly

 

If you have wrapped the exhaust, and make an alloy shield, and there is an air gap, i think that would be fine.

Thanks for the advice, I'll see what I can do with a combination of sleeve covering and a shield of some sort. Cheers

After spending all that time figuring out the existing wiring, I've now pulled it all out (well the dash section so far).

Reason being because when I imported the 1992 180sx I pulled out the complete wiring loom, every single bit and sensor. The engine loom section was sold with the SR20DET but I didn't need that. I was keeping it just incase I needed any of it since I new that the NZ new 200sx rolling body had had the wiring loom stripped of anything unnecessary, such as the heater wiring etc.

Before I started pulling it out I contemplated working with the already modified loom and making my own heater controls, but since I already have the Japanese type setup with the digital controls etc I'm better off using the Japanese loom.

Queue finding the are completely different....gah...why? Why you do this?

I can understand that fact that the import has extra stuff for ABS, etc but why on earth would the wires be different colours and different pins for the main fuse box plug?

So I'll be starting fresh by pulling out the modified loom and.... modifying, the other loom for my needs. i.e. I've started separating the extra shite like ABS wires.

So right now my garage has a complete jzx100 body loom and a complete s13 loom spread out across the floor. And the 200sx has wires hanging out the doors.

Yay..wiring.

Turbo and downpipe installed.

Very happy that the wastegate return pipe with three v-bands clicks into place perfectly. So satisfying...

I've spent a bunch of time figuring out the ECU wiring, this is the factory JZX100 Tourer V manual ECU so it doesn't have the immobiliser like the later JZX110 and I think maybe late soarers?

At the time it had no fuel pump so I tested it by spraying a bit of fuel into the intake to see if it would fire. And it did for half a second.

At first it didn't because I didn't have the ignitor earthed.

So I bought a trusty walbro 255lph jobby and installed that (old pump is 24y/o SR20DET one from parts car, see filthy filter).

And I made up some fuel line to take the factory line from the drivers side over the firewall to the passenger side since its in the 'wrong' side for the 1JZ.

Tested pump. Nadda. Oh right, the previous owner removed the fuel relay and wiring. Dumb...

Then I spent ages trying to figure out what had been changed with the wiring, I found half a dozen cut wires in the same place where I would have expected the last owner to put their ecu (it had a motec).

Tracked those wires and it started making sense, after the frustration of finding wires that go into the loom but don't seem to come out. Then after stripping back the tape etc to find it is joined to another colour wire (multiple times).

So as a fuel line test I just connected it to a battery via the fused but cut wire (without a relay). Yay, pump noises and no fuel leaks!

Then I tried starting it again and it ran each time for a second or two. This is promising considering I don't have the MAF sensor connected yet because the throttle body needs tig welding and one more section of intercooler hot side to make.

I hate wiring, but it is satisfying figuring it out:

Could you please clarify a couple of these rules around fuel line proximity to exhaust bits?

10.8.3

Flexible fuel hoses fitted to a low volume vehicle must not be positioned within 100 mm (4”) of the outside edge of any adjacent exhaust system unless suitably heat-shielded.

What is 'suitably heat-shielded.'?

On my car I've fitted a 1jzgte to a 180sx which means the turbo downpipe is on the same side as the fuel lines so is definitely within 100mm of the exhaust. I've already wrapped the downpipe in exhaust wrap but is there a point/distance that it will be failed even if I add some alloy sheet to make an air gap?

I thought about running the fuel lines on the other side but S13's are weird, the chassis rail on the passenger side doesn't run the whole way, so the fuel line would be exposed.

The other option I've thought about is running line inside the car but I'm unsure about this one.

10.8.5

Rigid fuel pipe or flexible purpose-designed automotive braided stainless steel covered hose may be located within the passenger compartment of a low volume vehicle, provided that:

(a) the hose cannot come in contact with either the driver or other vehicle occupants during normal vehicle operation; 

I've already run some line from the standard fuel line over the firewall to the other side but if the section near the exhaust fails the cert rules. Then I'll need to look at running new fuel line inside (not sure what to do about the brake line since its next to the drivers side chassis rail and new exhaust as well). 

If I was to run it inside, can you clarify 10.8.5 A in red? It would be secured every 300mm but does this rule mean the passengers foot can't touch the line? i.e. it needs to be boxed in?

Thanks muchly.

Small bit of progress, manifold installed with wastegates and wastegate return pipes.

And welded up the internal wastegate, not the prettiest weld but it'll work.