~Slideways~

I haven't because it has always been rock solid, only reason I replaced the radiator is because it had a leak which wasn't worth fixing since it was 27 years old. Decided to get a triple core because of towing stuff. Thermostat could possibly cause it if it is stuck partially open and aggravated by the lack of air flow from old w2a jobby. Might as well replace anyway though. I've towed 2000kg+ with no problem, but that was before the w2a radiator was in there, it needs to come out either way since I binned the w2a stuff.

An intercooler should lower EGT's, increase power and economy. No downside really. But yeah, EGT is worth it just to see what is going on even if you don't want to add more fuel. This is what I use and it works very well: https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=5

Drove this to Tauranga with my heavy tandem trailer and found the water temp would climb on long hills unless you are in 4th or even 3rd. EDIT: EGT's were still well under 600deg pre turbo. EDIT 2: An intercooler joiner blew off some time after Taihape. Duct tape fix. Its a brand new (well a few 1000km ago) triple core copper/brass upgraded one made in the UAE for like I don't know, deserts or sand drags? When I fitted it, the water temp would sit rock solid at below half way no matter what I did, even towing the same trailer with a rolling body 200sx on it. So I'm pretty sure its because I haven't removed the w2a radiator which will be restricting air flow to the radiator and A/C condenser. With the A/C on the temp would climb on hills, with it off the temp would be ok unless really letting it work hard in 5th. On the flat it doesn't move, so I think having a 3rd radiator in front is the problem which makes me glad I went for a top mount interheater. Maybe a FMIC wouldn't block so much? On the way home it was getting dark and colder, and with out the A/C on it wasn't a problem. Another conclusion is that towing about 1500kg it doesn't have enough power, I've barely added any fuel so hopefully the standard 10mm pump can provide enough. Turangi for BK dinner on the way home (BK isn't very good is it...) Got home at 1am and it was still there: Leaving Tauranga at around 5pm and of course it starts pissing down out of nowhere, got soaked covering the electrics:

Just looked it up, I'm not sure about 2K. I'd love to be able to spray it at home. But I'd be doing it at home with tiny humans around.

I'm thinking about spraying underseal to the floor and chassis of my Nissan Safari for rust protection and bonus sound deadening. I thought about it when Supercheap had a sale, I was getting some other stuff and saw a few options they had. Didn't buy because it's probably not great. So a couple of things I'd like suggestions on: - A good spray on rust kill, there is surface rust in places. So want to kill this first. - Would i need a coat of something else after the rust kill/prep. - What is the best option for the actually underseal?

That's a nicely routed bit of plumbing, I like it. I haven't been able to test mine much but I used to be able to get 650deg pre turbo chugging up a a long hill in 4th. Now it seems to be about 500 and pulls much better, before it used to start slowing down. I wasn't paying too much attention at the time and it drops so fast that I may have missed the max reading so will do some better testing later. It'll be really interesting to see what the water/meth injection does.

Cut and polished the passenger door, guard and front bumper. Fitted door and window trim. Decided to fit some adjustable caster arms that I got with the imported 180sx. They look like good quality Japanese stuff but with out a brand on them I don't know if I can certify them. There is some Japanese writing but I think this is just a part number for the one part. Fitted them so I could add some caster to add some clearance to the rear of the wheel arch at full lock. They have a extra support arm which mounts to a subframe bolt, which is a nice design to stop flex. The one I had on it have an offset urethane bush.

Cool, I'm still waiting for it to come back from the wof so I haven't been able to test anything. But thanks for the offer, I'll see what I find.

Thanks man, re the FMIC does yours have a PTO? I was thinking of mounting a FMIC lower at first but the PTO is just in the way. What turbo setup have you got on yours?

Plus there is heaps of room above the engine, even on a 29deg day in a 50km zone it was cooling well, cold to the touch on the 'cold side'.

Originally I fitted a water to air intercooler for the best of both worlds, but it had a leak so it got water into the intake (it was from an st205 GT4 so pretty old). I decided on top mount because I still have working aircon so bugger all room, I only just got the w2a radiator to fit. I'd have to hole saw big holes for FMIC plumbing too and didn't want to do that, technically would need to be certified again too.

I assumed it was the motors getting old but it might help, thanks for the suggestion.

Good idea, will try this.

Your mum.

My 32 year old corolla has been sitting unused for 12 years or so, I recently did a bunch of work on it to get it back on the road. The electric windows worked last I used it, sluggishly, but they did work. Now they don't, neither the drivers main switch or the passengers. Strangely I can't see a fuse or relay, I didn't have much time to investigate (because tiny humans) but I assumed it would be in the kick panel fuse panel or the under bonnet fuse box. Can anyone tell me where to look before I write a strongly worded letter to Toyota demanding a recall? Is it a shared power source/fuse? Is there a control box or relay hidden behind the kick panel maybe? I'm asking Oldschool because the limited amount of garage time I have these days must be for race car finishing, else I will lose my mind. Thanks

Wet sanded and polished the front drivers side guard, came out nice. Fitted rear lights, I decided to try some aftermarket lights that came on the 180sx I imported. They are type x 'style' LED things, I don't really like them (they look OK... I hate aftermarket lights though)... but I'll leave them on until I get some genuine ones since I do have the genuine Type X centre and lower panel (I haven't painted this yet). Alternatively I could use some non-type x ones with the different centre and lower panel, I had intended to use those on the other project 200sx.

Yep my thoughts too, I'm looking for a 24v fan to suit so I don't have to stuff around with 12v things like I have before (i.e. the water to air setup which drained batteries due to inverters etc).

Scoop fitted! I used silicon glue UV and heat resistant stuff, and some big rivets. I sealed the back in the centre with the same sealer, want as much pressure as possible to stop under bonnet hot air trying to push out (from radiator and below engine). I went for a quick test drive, it was hot as fck the thermometer read 28deg in the shade. But I took it for a drive, running over 1 bar of boost previously (pre scoop but with bonnet hole) made the whole intercooler hot. Now I can put my arm right in the scoop and feel the inlet side is hot (easy to touch) and the outlet side is cool! Might still fit a fan below it for slow moving 4wding.

Aluminium air blocker thing finished and riveted on: Top view, because I was on the deck. Inside view with rubber foam tape to seal the frame with the intercooler surface: Scoop sanded and painted. I am reminded of why rattle can spraying sucks...but it turned out ok. When the paint is dry I'll silicon glue and rivet it on:

Then I cut the Torana scoop a bit shorter: It's a bit rough with cracked paint etc: Sanded a bunch: High fill primered: Filler because I love sanding:

Time for a bit of CAD work to close up that gap. Template: Test fit: Cut out in aluminium sheet: I'll rivet it on, then make the side bits to enclose it then some thick rubber foam tape to seal with the intercooler.

Best update yet: Sun roof installed, it's a simple lift up type so I plan to try make a fibreglass or carbonfibre mould of the glass to reduce weight. The glass is pretty heavy but I just put it back in for now so I can get it going and ready for certification, still heaps more to do before then. Phwoooarrr....sunroof, being all...sun roofy.

I was going to try find a Version 8 wrx scoop but then I found a Torana fibreglass scoop which is wide enough. It's way too long but if I shorten it by maybe 1/3 it'll work. Dummy fit and a rusty Triumph: After a little thought, I cut a big hole in the bonnet. Not a rectangle because I didn't want to cut too much of the frame: Now I need to figure out a way to seal the gap so the air doesn't just go straight through.

Had another baby, so progress is super slow. Bumper painted and fitted: Guards and front bumper painted but still need wet sand then polish. Bonnet and headlight covers were already painted white so they are the wrong shade. Will do them at some stage.

Had some issues which I suspected was the intercooler leaking water into the intake, confirmed it was the case, got annoyed at the thing. It was using too much power with the big 24v to 12v inverter as well as driving the water pump all of the time too, so decided it wasn't for me and ripped it all out. I still had a modified front mount intercooler from an old car so I played around with some ideas and came up with this: It's currently an interheater because I haven't cut a hole in the bonnet yet. Plan is to try find a Version 8 wrx scoop since they are the tallest and less rounded than other wrx designs which would look silly on a big square box of a 4wd. Currently in for a WOF, brakes need some work and for once I'm not doing the stuff myself because I don't have time with a 1month old girl and a 3 year old boy and a 16 year old dog, so I asked the wof guy to do the work. Anyone know a good Subaru wrecker?