~Slideways~

Could be an option, can you send me the details please?

Hoping to get this rust free, legal then see what I think of the coke can capacity fury. Then ultimately motorbike engine fwd!

Yay new project! Sold my AE82 FXGT so I bought this. 1972 Honda N360. Reg on Hold. Bad rust but I hope to be able to fix it. Run's pretty well, bad oil leak. Apparently rebuilt 1000km ago. Currently looking to get parts from Australia to help with the rust. Discussion:

Z10?...ZeDtEnNN? Interested! There's two Z20's up the road from me. Cool cars.

I remember seeing a guy on youtube do something similar with a non-vvti 1jzgte and SAFC II, I don't think he understood the percentages. I'm pretty sure he thought if you run a 50% bigger injector you have to set the SAFC to 50% too and wondered why it ran badly.

Thanks! The tail lights aren't too bad. I still want some genuine type-x ones though (the very late ones are LED too which is cool). Yeah I am cautious of this, I didn't want to make too big of a change. This is a stop gap to get some seat time and then later I'll go with a Link capable of tuning the Vvti, just a car budget thing. I'm basing this on my old JZX100 Chaser which was actually my wife's car (EDIT: it was an auto..shift kitted but still auto), so I'd left it stock except the exhaust. It made 170kw atw on stock boost of 10psi (rapidly dropping off to 6psi) and was very rich (in the mid 10's) at full throttle like most JZ's seem to be. The stock injectors and turbo seem to handle about 210-220kw in a manual one. Maybe I'll get around 240kw with the bigger turbo and gobs of torque? In the end with cam's and an ECU I'd hope for around 350kw on 98, but that's a few years off. If I go with E85 and supporting jobbies, maybe a million?

Drove it around the block to test the AFR's, I set the Apexi SAFC II to -16% across the board high and low throttle which should mean it is acting like 450cc injectors, which is 80cc more than stock. 1jzgte vvti injectors are 370cc I have fitted ST215 injectors which are 540cc So 540cc x 84% = 453cc With a very quick test drive it seems to be getting around 0.7bar at wastegate spring pressure and the AFR's were around 10.5:1 at full throttle in 2nd which is still rich but thats a whole lot better than the super lean it was getting before. Maybe I'll pull a bit more fuel out of it until its happy at spring pressure. Really need a proper test drive but this will be enough for cert I think. It's out in the sun light! Still need to paint the rest of the Type-x stuff.

That's just how it is after turning the fuel up a bit. It barely made any increase to the max temp which I guess is a sign its getting lots of air in and out easily.

I needed to tow the trailer again so as a test I pulled out the old redundant w2a radiator (its 40mm thick and covers the whole grill area), then turned up the fuel a quarter of a turn, adjusted idle down then tested towing over Haywards Hill. Now its pulling in 5th and not losing speed up long hills, no sign of water temp problems and EGT's only got to 560deg pre turbo. So it's towing much better and room for more fuel. Will be interesting to see what it goes like without the big tandem trailer on the back.

haha cheers. You weren't with another dude on an old motorbike in Tawa?

Is he doing it specifically to lower EGT's? If so yeah, intercooler is simple and effective but also have to think about getting the gases out with a bigger exhaust/downpipe. Also I plan on 50/50 water meth for the extra fuel as well as the added benefit of cleaning the head and valves.

I have all the stuff just haven't got around to it yet. Too many project cars and project humans.

It was from a local place in Wellington, think it was Capital Radiators. They had to get it in overnight so I assume any supplier could get one. It was $500+ though, definitely nice quality and I plan to keep this for ages so made sense. In fact I would say its one of these: https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/engines/auction-1550870794.htm?rsqid=d0251483d3fc4b67a795fb5eb821d040 Water temp wise I only have the factory gauge, which is probably not very accurate, but it normally sits rock solid at 1/3. Most of that drive it was either there or half way, my dad came for the drive and he drove for a bit. He didn't realise letting it chug up a hill in 5th would raise EGT and therefore water temp. It got almost to the top of the gauge, but I happen to see it and told him to change gear then it dropped down again. So basically in 5th up a long hill it was an issue, if you changed to 4th it would cool down slowly. If you gave it lots of revs in 3rd the EGT would drop right down and the water temp would drop right down too. What's yours like for towing your race car? Mine needs more fuel to maintain speed up hills, so I'll be getting the screw driver out soon. Then if that's not enough I'll get into the water meth.

That does sound pretty hot, intercoolers are so cheap these days too.

It's supposed to be more accurate, post turbo is meant to read about 150deg cooler. But just take that into account and its still a good measuring tool.

I haven't because it has always been rock solid, only reason I replaced the radiator is because it had a leak which wasn't worth fixing since it was 27 years old. Decided to get a triple core because of towing stuff. Thermostat could possibly cause it if it is stuck partially open and aggravated by the lack of air flow from old w2a jobby. Might as well replace anyway though. I've towed 2000kg+ with no problem, but that was before the w2a radiator was in there, it needs to come out either way since I binned the w2a stuff.

An intercooler should lower EGT's, increase power and economy. No downside really. But yeah, EGT is worth it just to see what is going on even if you don't want to add more fuel. This is what I use and it works very well: https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=5

Drove this to Tauranga with my heavy tandem trailer and found the water temp would climb on long hills unless you are in 4th or even 3rd. EDIT: EGT's were still well under 600deg pre turbo. EDIT 2: An intercooler joiner blew off some time after Taihape. Duct tape fix. Its a brand new (well a few 1000km ago) triple core copper/brass upgraded one made in the UAE for like I don't know, deserts or sand drags? When I fitted it, the water temp would sit rock solid at below half way no matter what I did, even towing the same trailer with a rolling body 200sx on it. So I'm pretty sure its because I haven't removed the w2a radiator which will be restricting air flow to the radiator and A/C condenser. With the A/C on the temp would climb on hills, with it off the temp would be ok unless really letting it work hard in 5th. On the flat it doesn't move, so I think having a 3rd radiator in front is the problem which makes me glad I went for a top mount interheater. Maybe a FMIC wouldn't block so much? On the way home it was getting dark and colder, and with out the A/C on it wasn't a problem. Another conclusion is that towing about 1500kg it doesn't have enough power, I've barely added any fuel so hopefully the standard 10mm pump can provide enough. Turangi for BK dinner on the way home (BK isn't very good is it...) Got home at 1am and it was still there: Leaving Tauranga at around 5pm and of course it starts pissing down out of nowhere, got soaked covering the electrics:

Just looked it up, I'm not sure about 2K. I'd love to be able to spray it at home. But I'd be doing it at home with tiny humans around.

I'm thinking about spraying underseal to the floor and chassis of my Nissan Safari for rust protection and bonus sound deadening. I thought about it when Supercheap had a sale, I was getting some other stuff and saw a few options they had. Didn't buy because it's probably not great. So a couple of things I'd like suggestions on: - A good spray on rust kill, there is surface rust in places. So want to kill this first. - Would i need a coat of something else after the rust kill/prep. - What is the best option for the actually underseal?

That's a nicely routed bit of plumbing, I like it. I haven't been able to test mine much but I used to be able to get 650deg pre turbo chugging up a a long hill in 4th. Now it seems to be about 500 and pulls much better, before it used to start slowing down. I wasn't paying too much attention at the time and it drops so fast that I may have missed the max reading so will do some better testing later. It'll be really interesting to see what the water/meth injection does.

Cut and polished the passenger door, guard and front bumper. Fitted door and window trim. Decided to fit some adjustable caster arms that I got with the imported 180sx. They look like good quality Japanese stuff but with out a brand on them I don't know if I can certify them. There is some Japanese writing but I think this is just a part number for the one part. Fitted them so I could add some caster to add some clearance to the rear of the wheel arch at full lock. They have a extra support arm which mounts to a subframe bolt, which is a nice design to stop flex. The one I had on it have an offset urethane bush.

Cool, I'm still waiting for it to come back from the wof so I haven't been able to test anything. But thanks for the offer, I'll see what I find.

Thanks man, re the FMIC does yours have a PTO? I was thinking of mounting a FMIC lower at first but the PTO is just in the way. What turbo setup have you got on yours?

Plus there is heaps of room above the engine, even on a 29deg day in a 50km zone it was cooling well, cold to the touch on the 'cold side'.