~Slideways~

I'm at work and Chrome was locked down not that long ago, I've got admin rights but it'll just get removed again. Because: pissy.

Two and 8.6:1 from what I can find.

Cool thanks for the offer, have you used one yet? Interested to know experiences with draw through carb set ups.

Cool, are you selling it?

The big amr500 might be a bit much for a 360cc two cylinder?

Sanded this stuff and ordered some primer, then went to measure the N360 just because.

Yep I found that, some info but most of the photo's were hosted by photobucket so are gone now.

Cheers muchly.

The plan is to fix rust, get it running with 360cc engine and get it on the road. But I can't stop thinking about what I could do to it, the fact its so light keeps me coming back to a bike engine using the bike gbox. Ideas so far: 1. Tiny turbo RHB31 VZ21 the 360cc. 2. Tiny supercharger AMR300 the 360cc 3. FWD bike engine car (BEC) using R1 1000cc and modified Civic fwd diff and shafts (might need to cut firewall). 4. VFR800 rwd if I can move the engine far enough to the passenger side to get the output shaft close enough to the middle, then a live axle with normal diff. Problem is the ratio needs to be at or less than 3.0:1 which isn't going to happen since most small diffs are around 4:1 or 5:1 5. Semi copy that vfr800 one of youtube and use an IRS rear end (mx5 or S13), run normal prop shaft and no reverse. This would be at best 3.6:1 so it would be revving its tits off at 100kph. 6. IRS rear, modify the diff to run a sprocket like they do with the fwd ones. That way the diff ratio is open to what ever size sprocket(s) are used. This also means it would need to be a mid mounted engine for the chain and it's much further than I wanted to go with the car, not even sure it could be road legal. A sprocket diff solves the diff ratio problems and makes it easier to have electric reverse but it also has its own problems. I could possibly run an inline car gearbox but again it gets very complicated with driveshafts So..... the easiest options: FWD - leave it factory and 27hp. FWD BEC R1 (compact) and sprocket diff RWD The easiest way to make it rwd is a no reverse, live axle leaf sprung, 'normal' prop shaft, front engine (has to be compact enough to mount north south). This literally keeps me awake at night.

The dashboard is in such good condition considering the body is so neglected: Waiting for doors and panels from Aus, the doors and some other bits should be on the way soon. Some other parts will need to wait a week or so to cut out. The doors are rust free but a bit of damage to fix, still a much better starting point. Have a lot of ideas about what I could do with this once it is fixed body wise, so I did some rough measurements of the engine bay: About 54cm from the current subframe to the top of the engine, could gain a bit from modifying the subframe and free space to the bonnet. Almost exactly 50cm from the firewall to the grill (under the support). On the passenger side there is a heater fan motor housing jobby, it doesn't look like all had this but it could give some more space. Roughly 80cm wide if I try fit a v-engine which could overlap the sides: C Live axle (well dead axle) leaf spring rear so there is the possibility of a live axle diff for rwd?

I've recently discovered these, I've stuffed around with with SC12's but never knew about these little buggers. A bit of a search on here and it looks like some of you guys have played with them, stupid Photobucket has fcked the details from 5 or 6 years ago though, so I thought I'd start a topic specifically about them. $200 USD! https://www.aliexpress.com/item/mechanical-supercharger-car-gear-supercharger-Turbocharger-Roots-Supercharger-for-Displacement-1-2-2-2L-model-AISIN/32273573307.html It makes me want to buy one and think about possible applications later... An AMR300 might suit my Honda N360, it could even be a bolt on if driven off the cooling fan pulley. The carb is mounted with a rubber joiner so it would be easy to swap to something else. Maybe I could use a bike carb? It may not be a good idea due to rarity of parts but the idea is so tempting, surely it would be ok on 4 or 5 psi? Who has played with these and carbs?

Two stroke!

Cool, I called them but no answer or voicemail. Will try again though. Thanks

Cool thanks, if I can't find one a bit closer I'll let you know. I'd be looking at hubs, discs, calipers, driveshafts and maybe wheels so probably a bit to send.

Cool thanks muchly.

As if by magic haha

Looks like his is a 1978, might not be the same hubs. Plus his looks too nice for parts. I need a rotten one to pillage parts to see if I can make the hubs and disk brakes work, found this blog thing saying they do: http://n600sedan.blogspot.co.nz/2014/03/brake-caliper-rotor-conversion-1972.html But driveshafts don't, so would need to work something out there. I wonder if accord or shuttle stuff would work?

I had sent a join request for the NZ Honda av/as/at/aa group about a week ago but never got a reply/acceptance thing. Guess they don't like my face or something. Joined a couple of other N360 groups and early Honda stuff but mostly overseas.

Does anyone know if a 1979-1983 Civic rotting away around Wellington?

Jeez... basically a engine with some semi N360 looking panels around it.

Can you tell me if there is any issue with having a motorbike engine conversion in a car with a chain driven fwd diff? And on a similar vein, can I cut out the firewall to make space as long as it is boxed in and welded nicely?

I found a guy who used old civic hubs which then worked with later model calipers, i think that is why the 13's were needed. 12" tyres must be hard to get tires for these days?

Cool to know about the mini flares! I had some nice wide ones on a clubman ages ago which looked nice. That was with widened 10" steelies, pretty sure you can't do that anymore. I reckon converting to 4x114.3 using early civic hubs would be a good option. Would need to run 13" wheels though, which might look a bit strange. Any idea what kind of power that Ausy N600 made? They were 36hp but apparently they were detuned from 45hp.

Bugger! 5min would suck... I've been through the pain of redoing the wiring in my 200sx/1jz thing so hopefully this would be no worse...hopefully. I do like the idea of modifying the 360cc, there is very little info out there. Perhaps its not a great engine for that. 27hp out of a 46year old design 360cc isn't bad, so there probably isn't much more in it.

The K1200GT sounds like a nice torquey engine, I had a look at some photos and being such a wide flat engine it may fit width wise but it looks like it would be too long if you were thinking as a rwd option. I think the reason the R1 works so well in fwd format is its compactness and the location of the sprocket works well with fwd sprocket diffs. I might need to take the engine out for rust repairs so I could do some proper measuring then. How did you find the r1 in the Imp? It must need a decent amount of revs and clutch slip from a standing start? I've seen clutch upgrade kits so there is an option there.