~Slideways~

12 hours ago, kws said:

if they were available in 165/55R15 there would probably be a bit of a market here for them as thats the stock size for a lot of late Kei cars (like my HA36S) and theres nothing on the shelf in that size in NZ.

Edit, Nevermind, looks like they are avail in that size via Hyper. Bloody spicy price though, cant be far off AD09R out of Japan, i wonder which is better?

I know the Zestino guys, father and son based in Wellington they used to be in my old work building in Lower Hutt. So could be stock locally.

On 24/01/2024 at 18:28, mjrstar said:

Yeah Dave Thomsen. He's a gc and still into his motorsport.

Funny, I can see their workshop from my desk now after moving work buildings.

Thinking about this car recently, with moving buildings I can't always get a secure car park anymore so would have to park in the wild. Which sucks, because I've been driving stuff that gets stolen a lot.

So my thoughts are, either buy a boring Leaf for the commute and not care about parking, probably still drive something interesting once a week. Or building this lancer up into a sleeper type thing.

Still 5x114.3 but maybe base the brakes on fitting within 15", or possibly 16" with hubcaps to hide the 5 stud?

Black intercooler.

I'd prefer to fit some better seats, but could put supercheap auto seat covers over them.

There is also the problem of life being so damn expensive these days. Car projects are a very low priority unfortunately. Except the ones I plan to sell.

2 hours ago, kws said:

The ability to fix rust yourself cannot be overstated. It's a super power for old car lovers. 

It really is, it's one of the reason I wanted to learn to do body work and paint.

Did it properly, cut out and welded in new metal. Spent ages bending it right etc etc. 

1 hour ago, tortron said:

It's extremely dangerous is what it is 

So dangerous I keep convincing my wife I should buy stuff to fix and make some money off of it. Then I like it too much and start stacking them up. Literally made a stacker.

What a ridiculous vehicle, I love it.

21 hours ago, cletus said:

" hey ai, draw me a sedan version of a fx-gt"

 

 

Where did you find it? I don't think I've ever seen one of those before 

 

 

 

Haha re AI generated! 

It was just on Trademe for $1 reserve, needed rust work and some other none wof stuff fixed. Put a lot of time into it and wof'd again

Got into a bidding war at the last minute, ended up paying more than I planned...   But still pretty good.

13 hours ago, kws said:

I'm thinking ae82 fxgt

How the fu...?

Very very close, so close it might as well be. It's an AE82 Sprinter sedan, so an FXGT with an ugly bit at the back.

Bonus if anyone can figure out the car I'm driving based on the dash.

I even tested it in my Yellow MX5 and same behaviour so it's definitely nuked something on the ecu or break out board.

Annoying but I guess it's not like I nuked a $2k ECU and it seems to be mostly functioning.

On 26/05/2024 at 13:03, tigerstyle said:

You definitely want the ULN makes things easier for the fuel pump, and I guess you're pretty happy re-wiring stuff to make it 'work' I'm no expert but used the same stuff in the same car and was happy with the results. 

The resources I used the most were: 

• https://www.miata.net/garage/ECU Pin-Out 90-93 MT.pdf
• https://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/Mazda_Miata_48_pin_rev_C_Speeduino_connector_adaptor_ecu_ems.html (This isn't the link I used before, the board deign used to be on Github with the PCB schematic, I opened it in the easy to use Fritzing PCB software to check each pinout directly. I'd just print them on some A3 paper and multimeter out each connection and make a copy that way if I couldn't find the files online now) There are lots of versions of the adaptor board with small differences, it's probably quicker to multimeter out what you have and do that rather than trust it has been built to some random spec anyway tbh.
• A long time staring at the IDC 40 Pin table here https://wiki.speeduino.com/en/boards/V04

I then added jumpers from the IDC 40pin on the breakout board to unused pins in the Mx5 ECU connectors and added connections for Sequential Injection + Sequential Ignition (so 2 extra for each) 1 for the fuel pump (coming from the ULN, into the MX5 ECU connector then ran a new wire from the ECU out to the fuel pump relay using an unused precrimped ECU pin from elsewhere) Some TPS stuff as you said, one for the Wideband, maybe some others, rev counter? Long story short the back of the plug and play adaptor only looked slightly modified after that 

I then used the Miata ECU PDF to strip away all the unused wires from the loom because lightweight racecar of course.

I guess it goes without saying, but  I approached it with the mentality of making it do what I wanted it to do, not trying to make it work how Mazda intended, so adding moving deleting wires? No worries, just documented to myself what I did

Hey thanks heaps for the info, super helpful. I got the Fuel pump and fan working with a ULN2003a chip, before I got it working I thought the ULN was faulty on pin 45 because at the time I couldn't get it to prime.

I was checking things with a multimeter and saw that the Arduino was sending 5v to pin 45, but still no pump. Checking some more and I managed to slip and short the 12v and Ground then the magic smoke came out of the adaptor board.

Now the radiator fan comes on permanently.

Yay fun... removed the speedino board and adapter then found that it looks like it had nuked the trace (on the adapter break out board) from 12v to the pin on the ECU connector (pin 1A from memory).

Fck...

So I soldered a wire to bridge the connection with the dead trace, doesn't look like it connects to anything else.

Now it's back to the rad fan being controlled properly, i.e. I can change Tunerstudio to trigger it at say 10deg C so it comes on on demand.

But now I don't see any RPM and no LED's to show ign or injector activity. Fck sake.

Had a close look at the Speeduino board and adapter. All looks fine, checked for burnt components, all look ok. Checked for continuity of resistors etc.

Checked for continuity for the Crank and Cam signal wires.

Put Tunerstudio into the hardware test setting, I can now trigger injectors and ign with the board LED's firing and the I can hear them in the engine bay. So that's good.... but what is wrong?

I assume I am still not getting crank or cam signal. 

Possibly next I'll try bypass the breakout board and IDC cable for the crank and cam signal.

Or maybe bypass the whole board and wire directly to the ECU plug.

Cars are fun.

EDIT: so I have MAP, TPS, intake temp, water temp, working fuel pump and rad fan. But no RPM, no injector pulse. Maybe a mosfet is fried or still a trace issue.

1 hour ago, Themi said:

I think my friend had similar if not identical issues to what you're facing re the TPS and fuel pump. If you want to PM me about it I can put you two in touch.

The adapter boards went through a few revisions and did need some work to get every feature going as expected. While you're in there you should do the ULN proto board stuff for the tacho, saves from having to "do it tomorrow" for years... Not that I'd know about that?

https://speedyefi.com/ulns-and-pullups-and-launch-oh-my/

Cheers for the link, I'll do some research on using the ULN2003.  Have PM'd.

Here's a video of the first start, I'm genuinely surprised how well it idles from cold etc.

Cold start is bad but then it idles straight away.

This is with the fuel pump jumped via the diagnostics plug. Hopefully I'll figure out getting the ecu to trigger the fuel pump.

https://youtu.be/toCfkd0BbO8?si=jZJvmsDtOWLo17_n

The TPS wiring was interesting, the 1.6 NA6 MX5 has a 3 wire TPS, you'd expect 5v, Ground and Signal.

But it is just an on/off switch on these, unlike the 1.8 (and apparently the auto 1.6). For a Speeduino or any ECU you need to change it to a VTPS. Variable voltage, not just on/off. Normally a BMW one with an adapter like earlier in this thread.

I did some testing and could not get the Speeduino ECU to get a signal from the bike TPS at all, even the BMW one. It looks like the stock ecu/wiring doesn't provide 5v to the plug at all, and the Speeduino plug and play ECU's reuse one of the wires to send the 5v's. So since I made my own using a Speeduino v0.4.3 universal board I needed to do this manually.

See brown wire here, this takes 5v from the speeduino board, to the adapter board to the pin that goes the the TPS plug:

Once I did this, the Tunerstudio software works with the bike TPS no problem.

Now the next thing is that I can't seem to get the Speeduino to turn on the fuel pump. I forgot to remove the SIG fuse like it says in the manual, but I think it may actually be the same issue as above. The manual is referring to the PnP MX5 speeduino ecu, not the universal board I have used.

The 'mx5 adapter board' to use the original mx5 ecu plugs also has no instructions at all so I am just working it out as I go along.

Bought a length of silicone joiner to fit the manifold side of the ITB's:

Used a hose clamp to use as a cutting guide:

30mm lengths:

Clamped to the ITB end but not the other yet, it's tight enough for this testing:

Also figured out the bike TPS and made a temporary adapter loom thing...if you can call it a loom...scrap wires maybe?

The bike ITB's didn't come with the injectors and they needed to be a long pintle type. I was originally going to try use some 1jzgte vvti injectors I had already and see if the short pintle was a problem. But then I looked at the b6ze mx5 injectors and they are quite long too.

Test fit, using some o-rings that fit the bottom end and spaced out the fuel rail with some nuts.

Looks like they are meant to be there?!

They are a basic single hole type unlike the 1jz ones but should still work, plus bonus is they sit pretty much flush too:

I picked up another mx5 recently, with a super crappy paint job. So I am stripping it back and practicing body work/paint on it.

While it's in pieces I took the intake manifold off so I could test fit the 3d printed ITB manifold I made ages ago, must be 2 years already. This is only printed out of PLA+ but final print will be in Carbon Nylon stuff.

The engine is messy but I'll fix that later.

It lines up nicely and doesn't foul on anything at all. In fact it frees up heaps of space: 

Not sure if I will run the throttle cable above or below and also need to see if I have enough cable movement to open the TB's fully.

There is about 100mm space for the trumpet before it'll touch the brake line junction box thing, which could be moved too.

Since it was a double throttle plate design, which I've removed the first set of TB's there is already roughly 65mm before the throttle plates. There is probably some Maths to do here... 

Total length to the head mounting surface is about 175mm without trumpets

On 21/03/2024 at 07:20, myk00l said:

15c off discount day today too.

Damn, today was yesterday.

At the Gull by my work there was a notice saying 98 would be swapped to 95 soon. Supposed to be all Gull sites, dumb.

I have an NPD Fuel 10min from home, but I think I'll stick to BP 98 since it's easier to get.

My Mx5 is 34 years old, I commute in it every day. 6 month wofs are a pain. Weird to think it'll be on classic 40y/o registration in only 6 years.

My Safari is 34 years old, I drive it maybe a few 1000's kms a year. It probably has more new bushings than stuff 1/3 its age. Only 6 more years till 40 y/o

My 200sx is 34 years old. It's been on the hoist for 18 months.... is that a classic? I reckon it should be and 12 month wof's would be great. Only 6 more years till 40y/o

But really, 40 y/o classic status is only really going to save me $50 per car each year. 12 month wof's would make so much sense for these cars.

6 minutes ago, Early jap nuter said:

Just because somethings old doesn’t make it a collectible, years ago classic cars were 30 years plus and vintage was 60 years plus. Does anyone know if they are going to put road user on classic cars? 

That's a good question actually, but I reckon it's just going be everything because classic cars are not currently exempt from paying the fuel tax.

12 hours ago, kws said:

Kei friend arrived today. Blew the (new) turbo half way between Blenheim and Nelson, he had to dump the car in Nelson, fly back and have the car trucked to Wellington.

Interestingly, the Alto and Kei are almost identical dimensionally due to Kei regs, whilst the Splash is a bigger car in all directions. The Kei looks smaller than the Alto, I think due to being more rounded. I like to think of it as the Altos dorky-looking little brother.

I am sure I drove passed you on SH58 yesterday, your car is indeed very small and cool. I clicked soon after, so no wave.