~Slideways~

On 21/03/2024 at 07:20, myk00l said:

15c off discount day today too.

Damn, today was yesterday.

At the Gull by my work there was a notice saying 98 would be swapped to 95 soon. Supposed to be all Gull sites, dumb.

I have an NPD Fuel 10min from home, but I think I'll stick to BP 98 since it's easier to get.

My Mx5 is 34 years old, I commute in it every day. 6 month wofs are a pain. Weird to think it'll be on classic 40y/o registration in only 6 years.

My Safari is 34 years old, I drive it maybe a few 1000's kms a year. It probably has more new bushings than stuff 1/3 its age. Only 6 more years till 40 y/o

My 200sx is 34 years old. It's been on the hoist for 18 months.... is that a classic? I reckon it should be and 12 month wof's would be great. Only 6 more years till 40y/o

But really, 40 y/o classic status is only really going to save me $50 per car each year. 12 month wof's would make so much sense for these cars.

6 minutes ago, Early jap nuter said:

Just because somethings old doesn’t make it a collectible, years ago classic cars were 30 years plus and vintage was 60 years plus. Does anyone know if they are going to put road user on classic cars? 

That's a good question actually, but I reckon it's just going be everything because classic cars are not currently exempt from paying the fuel tax.

12 hours ago, kws said:

Kei friend arrived today. Blew the (new) turbo half way between Blenheim and Nelson, he had to dump the car in Nelson, fly back and have the car trucked to Wellington.

Interestingly, the Alto and Kei are almost identical dimensionally due to Kei regs, whilst the Splash is a bigger car in all directions. The Kei looks smaller than the Alto, I think due to being more rounded. I like to think of it as the Altos dorky-looking little brother.

I am sure I drove passed you on SH58 yesterday, your car is indeed very small and cool. I clicked soon after, so no wave.

Found the right screws at Anzor, same head taper, allen size, 'THE' manufacturer and same 304 stainless.

16mm long, so maybe 1.5mm longer than the originals but they don't bottom out so work fine:

Repainted the manifold:

Decided to heat wrap the manifold, not too worried about rust since its thick wall stuff:

 Back on the engine:

Also painted and wrapped the wastegate outlet to dump y piece:

15 hours ago, mjrstar said:

You could consider hard line with a flare and an AN dash fitting for the boost reference on the wastegate where heat is an issue...

Then connect your rubber hose somewhere closer to the boost control solenoid.. works well after I suggested this on a mates 2jz with twin wastegate gate twin scroll with one wastegate well tucked away into a hot spot.. he also has water cooling to keep the diaphragm in tact... 

The main issue is that the thread is a stupid one which no one has and there is no room to tap it. Turbosmart eventually made their own, which I used with an AN fitting which helped but still got really hot.

The other issue is when I designed the manifold I didn't take into account this being a tight spot, hindsight etc.

This should solve the problem though.

To solve the problem of one of the wastegates being in a tight spot and melting vacuum lines, after trying heatshields and all sorts, the only really solution was to cut it off and raise it higher. 

Which took a surprising amount of test fitting to make sure it didn't foul on anything else.

So I lifted it up this much:

But now you can sort of make out that the wastegate outlet goes nowhere since I had to cut that off too.

A bit of cutting and changing the angle it goes into the y-piece and this should work. It looks like I didn't change much but it was miles off before.

So now I needed to take the top of the wastegate off and twist the base of the diaphragm housing, to make the vacuum port point away from the heat. Which I couldn't do before.

Unfortunately 1 of the allen screws was seized in there, I bent the allen key and eventually rounded the hole too. Fck.

Tried a few other tricks but the bugger would not come out.

It's always the last bolt.

So I mig'd the allen key to the head and got the damn thing out.

Bastard:

Hopefully not too hard to find a replacement. Thread is just M6 and a2-70 means it's 304 stainless. So unless the head is some weird tapper, it should be fine to replace it.

I also cut off the old un-used oxygen sensor and welded up the hole to make a blanking plate:

Taking the opportunity to make small improvements like this while it's apart again, will make it really nice to work on in the future. Like the water pipe I modified earlier now means that I can fit and remove this big (3.5" diameter) downpipe without having to remove anything else.

Text here.

I wonder what the story is? Like did a neighbour complain about a his old rusty car (probably still a functioning car at that point) that should be moved out of sight and he was all like 'nah'.

And everyday he relishes in the ridiculousness of it.

1 hour ago, Honda Ass Dragger said:

The 1.6 Mivec Cyborg motor was rate for 10kw more than the B16a so I'm expecting it must breath 

 

Or they lied like Toyota did haha

1 hour ago, Honda Ass Dragger said:

Go the HX if MIVEC is anything like VTEC it will breath.

My Civic with a 1.6 B series has the Xonarotor 5757s I've got with a .82 rear is fully on song by 3500 and holds till 9k

182KW at the hubs on 7psi

Those turbo'd vtec b16 and b18's always impressed me 20 years ago I remember an orange civic screaming down the Manfeild straight. Looked like a show car type thing but stupid fast.

My old 4agze turbo only made 38kw more than that and it took 20psi!  

56 minutes ago, mjrstar said:

I had an Evo based td05 20g it made 200kw at the wheels at 4000rpm and 245kw at about 6500 rpm on my pretty stock 4g63t, on 18-20ish psi.

I like my mid-range performance on the street, it probably needed more camshaft if you wanted to up the rpm... I reckon this was the sweet spot for stock drivetrain AWD Lancer, no need for a twin plate and the problems that go along with them.

Stock cast manifold, 720cc injectors, Walbro in tank pump and reflashed Mitsubishi ecu.

 

Edit -it made 235 on stock cams and 257 wheel kw at 6000rpm on the old spec kelford 264's

the 245 number in my head is my starlet dyno plot..

200kw at 4k is really impressive, I think 250kw is a good number to work with for reliability too, especially if it holds till lets say something like 8k. 

Being an evo 4 you'd be using the twin scroll stuff right?

I don;t think I'd be able to use a stock 4g93 manifold unfortunately, since they have the tiny td04 round outlet flange. 

PS what's happening with that starlet? I remember looking at it years ago and thinking 'man that's cool'. Now that I'm old and mature, I'm thinking 'man that's cool'

50 minutes ago, shrike said:

Chinese turbo that you've disassembled and reassembled to confirm quality control?

Hard to really know the quality control just looking at it I reckon, except for maybe crappy casting and machining.

I once had a T3/04e type chinese thing, it spooled well made good power. But lasted about 1000km's, the thrust bearing appeared to be made out of very soft brass and it wore away fast then ate the compressor wheel. The journal bearings looked ok. If I took it apart I wouldn't have been able to tell the quality of the brass. 

This was ages ago though so maybe things have improved.

On the other hand I have a Kinugawa td05 on my Safari, after a bunch of research on Ausy 4wd forums and it has held up really well. That was a reasonably expensive 'knock off' though I guess.

Just thinking out loud on this, the plan is still to keep it low budget pick a part build type thing and see how good I can make it without a big budget.

The idea of using the Mivec head is the most interesting part, it should be able to flow lots at the top end while the the 'normal' cam profile should make the bottom end pretty decent. A bit like Vtec turbo's make stupid power, but this should also need a big turbo to keep up. i.e. if I use a TD05-16G type thing, the top end will probably trail off which defeats the purpose of the mivec cam profile.

I have no doubt it can make lots of power but the budget means I need to match it to what the rest can/could in theory handle.  

The unknown is how strong the factory pistons are and how much power the gearbox can handle.

Pistons:

These are probably fine as long as there is no detonation. The rods bend at around 250hp (12psi or more with the td04) before people find the limit of the factory piston in 4g93 GSR turbos, but I don't think 4g63 evo engines have anything special piston wise and people seem to be able to 'safely' make 400hp / 300kw before forged rods and pistons (not sure if flywheel or at the wheels). Later Evo's seem to have quite thin rods too so again is the limit the rods not the pistons?

JZ's can make lots of power on stock pistons which are just cast things.

Gearbox strength:

The transmission code makes it sound like it'll be similar to Evo 1-3 gearbox strength, maybe more? But it has a different design to those early gbox and transfer case designs, much like the evo 4-9 gearbox just not as big.

Turbo choice:

I've been really impressed with the response of a twin scroll turbo. The relatively big Holset HX35 12cm jobby I used on the 1jz responds instantly. The 12cm exhaust housing might be a bit big on a 1.8 although it has been done. There are 10cm and 8cm twin scroll versions but harder to find and get more expensive. Plus to do it properly the cost and complexity goes up with the need for 2 wastegates.

An HX35 can be anywhere from $500 to $2000. 

So in theory, the cheapest 'pick a part' option would be a twin scroll evo td05 I see these come up quite cheap some times. I'd still have to make a manifold to suit, but can maybe get away with the internal wastegate.

TD05 2nd hand around $300 to $800

The turbo needs to be able to breath lots in the top end with the 'big cams' of the 4g92 mivec head, so a stock td05 evo5-8 type thing might struggle. They seem to be limited to around 320-380hp on a 2L 4g63 (just general internet comments).

These new Garrett G25-550 (550hp) jobbies look great but expensive and I don't like ball bearing turbo's ever since I had an expensive BB GT28 die and the only option was a whole new centre so basically throw it in the bin.

Holset's are built like brick shit houses, basic rebuild in comparison. But quite large housings so packaging will be hard and internal wastegate doesn't work well on petrol engines.

So do I have a responsive 220kw at the wheels td05 type thing or a 300kw big holset (still relatively responsive) to make use of the mivec cam?

I used to have a TD05-16G single scroll turbo (evo 3 generation) on a 1.6L 4agze making 220kw at the wheels, that was 20psi and probably all it had, it was amazingly responsive on the 1.6L. The only thing better was the BB GT28, but it died before I could get more out of it (needed more fuel).

This awd lancer will be 350kg heavier and AWD stuff to lug around, so I reckon it needs 250kw at the wheels at least which I don't think a td05 will do. Unless it's a -20g or something, but less easy to find and I've never tried one.

1 minute ago, Stu said:

Because Im a starlet tragic I am intrigued by that small turbo given that alot of 4e's end up with tdo4's on them.

Is there a part number on it so I can look up some specs?

 

Yep tiny wee thing, tf035 I think...wait here you go:

Alright so this is the 4g93 GDI turbo engine I bought for bugger all, with the assumption that the block and crank would be the same as the GSR 4g93.

Supposedly only 125k on it. Only ever automatic so hoping for good condition block.

Basically the plan is to bin the gdi stuff, which is all problematic from what I've heard. It's a weird high comp, direct injection turbo. Lean burn 165hp, the head is completely different as expected.

Then get some forged rods, which is the gsr's weak point (well the first one lol).

Plus the GSR pistons I got with the green  parts car.

So here it is...next to the white car I really should be working on instead of stripping  this engine:

Coil on plug, i wonder if they are any good? A bit too long for the mivec head but could be modified.

Huge plastic intake removed, intake ports being here is still so strange to me:

Pretty clean in there, thats a good sign.

Gross egr stuff.

Turbo is smaller than a td04, could be good on a turbo Nissan mini thing.

Manifold looks very similar to the GSR one but this has a cast tube thing for the egr port. You can see it on the right hand side of the exhaust manifold, running along the front of it where it goes to the downpipe to suck in crap.

Head off, it's super clean!

Valves are carbon'y but i was surprused they are reasonably big, will compare to gsr head and mivec head out of interest:

Now the good part, the bores look brand new! Well at least I assume these are factory cross hatch marks? Unless it was rebuilt?

It feels smooth but those cross hatch marks might mean it doesn't need any machining?

Compared to the gsr block from the green car which looks and feels like it was honed with 80 grit can literally catch my nail on all of the scratches. Wtf. But that was always going to need a lot of work, obviously a home job rebuild. Surprised it managed enough compression to bend the rod it came with haha.

So yeah, this gdi block looks great! The head gasket fits the gsr 4g93 block perfectly and visually it all looks identical. 

Good thing about going 4g93 is parts are cheap and gearboxes don't cost $1500 plus. Most people give up on the 4g93 because it needs forged rods. But China to the rescue there.

The fuel tank has a small leak and has started to reek real bad, the tank is rusty and in the way of rwd conversion anyway so drained it and took it off.

Holy the shit the stench, was 10L+ left in it and was probably last filled around 2014. 

Not sure why I didn't drain it in the last 5 years?

Chipping away at this again.

Have put the Xspurt 1000's back in and looked like not too much to do until I wrote out a full page of stuff just off the top of my head.

Took the Vvti solenoid banjo bolt/filter out and cleaned it, quite a bit of junk in there.

Cleaned out and blasted with the air compressor as well.

Installed new genuine timing belt and tensioner, front timing covers mostly back on.

Cam cover gaskets, goo and installed back on head.

Bolted pressure plate to flywheel which has to be done through the inspection holes.

Reinstalled knock sensors, oil cooler/filter housing, cleaned out the oil cooler as a precaution but it all came out clean anyway, positioned engine loom and plugged in what I can so far like injectors, oil pressure, knock sensors starter etc etc. 

Getting there, lots of life distractions like the dog degloving her paw which was/is rough.

Took the GSR body to the metal recycler, backed up to crane guy, cool machine:

30 minutes ago, kws said:

red springs could be Jamex

Regarding front panels, a lot of the Evo/GSR ones are obsolete, and ALL rust out, so good to keep spare parts if you can, as you may need it later.

Definitely keeping spare guards but these aren't anything special, just the same as normal lancer. Weirdly the bonnet has rusted in the same spot about 30cm to the right of the hinge just like my one, even though mine is the later shape bonnet to match the evo 5 style headlights.

I didn't think this generation had roof rust problems like the evo 1-3 did, but this GSR is really bad in the roof. The rest is actually pretty good, except the bonnet.

Not sure why there is a bonnet butt hole though. Still learning about Mitsi's 

EDIT: just realised you were talking about the radiator support panel stuff. Yep that was my thinking. This one has some surface rust on the lower support but worth saving.

Should have everything useful off of it now.

Cut this off just as a template to cut and drill for the clutch master on mine.

Cut the front off because Sabre saws are fun and may be handy.

Removed wheels and front subframe, don't think I took any photos but it has red springs of some sort so don't match the rear. Pretty old shocks I reckon since the bump stops have disintegrated.

I did laugh at this ball joint fix...

No wait I did take a photo lol

Also was taking measurements for the mount holes for the side skirts, then just cut it off instead haha bit of a cave man way of doing it but it's all getting crushed anyway.

Pretty much done now and ready to go to scrap.

Just to prove it's stuffed:

These GSR brakes are nothing specisl at all, out of interest this is the gsr front rotor versus a more modern 2008 Lexus.

42 minutes ago, Nominal said:

Berry and Mexted Auto Electrical

Oh nice spotting

Almost done removing everything.

Awd fuel tank which has pickups on both sides:

Removed dash to get the heater matrix since mine is broken. Will just keep the whole thing as spares.

Ecu has seen some moisture but not sure I'll need it. Also has this writing on it, I wonder why? Maybe repaired or possibly remapped, think some mitsi stuff can be reflashed.

Berry and Mexted? Possibly Mexted motors?

Inside looks ok with more writing inside so it was opened up.

Engine loom out, will look at using this with a speeduino.