sheepers

put a uz in it...nah wait dont

snap

etc

hours till total fail?

i still can't stomach your total fail on the corona, then the cressida, what next?

dont get me wrong, i totally hope you build this to the point you want,and im hoping my razzing will get you to finish it.

but time will tell.

sheepers

Discussion; https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/24338-sheepers-ms51-of-hyperbolic-enlightenment-and-anomalies/#comment-618364

NOTE, CURRENT CAR BUILD STARTS ABOUT HALF WAY DOWN THIS PAGE.

i have finally got off my skinny arse and taken some photos of my 51.
its a 1969 and was imported into New Zealand in the early 80's from singapore.
it has all the standard features of the 50 series crowns (electric windows, heater, combination clock, central locking, boosted brakes etc)

some interesting points to note,
1) white paint applied with a vacuum cleaner spray attachment
2) not one straight panel, all panels fill of bog and very poorly finished.
3) no two parts of the car match, no lines straight, no door or boot/bonnet fitted correctly.
4) tyres also sprayed in "bathroom coverings" white.
5) front lower valance panel is rustier and more bent than the Bismarck.
6) factory tinted glass.
7) original engine and gearbox.
un-cut dash and original radio.
9) factory manual trans.
10) Jap spec front, complete and in pretty good condition.

enough waffle.

i have the lenses for the headlights but the buckets need re-plating so they have been taken off.
also, check out my sweet Lambretta, genuine Italian GP, TS1 225. ive had that bike for almost as long as ive had crowns.





in this pic you can almost see the rear seat divider thingy, its a broad plastic part with a speaker in it which that comes down between the top of the rear seats. not all MS51's had this.






i have collected a disk brake diff and TRD LSD for it, power steer, and a few other bits.
the stock motor has a new carb and an electronic dizzy which allows it to start and idle perfectly.
the chassis has been completely re-built, every nut and bolt is new, and all replaceable parts are new.

i also have a 2JZ GE which ill stick in when i get around to it.

this car is last on the list. i have my RA28 to finish before i do any work on this so dont expect any updates ini the next year but i thought id just stick it up so you can have a laugh.

i kind of like the way it is so shit now, when ive re-built it ill be able to look at these photos, see what i started with and wish id never bought it.


sheepers.

i had to ditch the crossmember and rack that was in the car when i bought it. i measured the bump steer and got 13mm of toe in at 50mm of travel, less than ideal.

so, i bought an TE71 powersteer rack and crossmember off tardme and used that.

i measured it all up and found that it needed to be spaced down by 25mm to get to LCA inner mounting points back to factory, but since i wanted to get the motor as low as possible i went another 15mm bellow this (which is the same as my RA23) giving a total of 40mm.

this is the crossmember shortened and with the spacers welded on it.

the corners are cut at an angle to clear the sway bar.

once i had this sorted it was time to make mounts for the motor and box and bolt the thing down.

nothing too exciting really, i cut the mounts off the crossmember that are shown above, used the original motor mounts and just made some little platforms for them to sit on. i used the gearbox mount that came with the box, not sure what its out of but fit a bit better than the standard RA one and extended the floor mounting position using a bit of 50 x 50 angle welded to the floor.

motor bolted down,

with the motor where it is and the new rack in place i have a bit more room for the drivers side extractors. its still going to be tight but not as bad as before.

ive now got the motor in a million bits replacing the cam belt and the waterpump and also taking the loom out so i can chop out the bits i don't need and get it all sorted to run.

sheepers.

could be a re-post but i dont care.

http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.as ... id=2079707

absolutely stunning set of photos from Nissan's private warehouse.

many thanks go to the guy who originally took and posted these choice pics.

enjoy.

http://www.carfolio.com/images/dbimages ... no_blu.jpg

i give you the lancia y. as in why?

none is more ugly.

it cannot be made to look good.

sheepers the cool.

couldnt see any nipples on my master cylinder but there is about an 8mm Philips grub screw in the side towards the end of the cylinder ? that system sounds interesting tortron may have to do it

grub screw could be there for bleeding.

for fucks sake dont take that screw out. it is there to hold the front plunger spring in tension, if you take it out you'll have to disassemble your master to get your plunger back into place correctly.

you can bleed the master by getting someone to hold some pressure on the pedal then cracking off the brake line fittings until you see fluid coming out around the pipe.

quite often there is air trapped in this part of the system and it makes the rest a bastard to bleed.

sheepers.

i need to get the windows tinted on my RA23 (bastard compliance people ripped my old ones off when i bought the car in) and i was wondering if anyone knows some GC's that do tinting in auckland. tint a car want 400 bux to do the job.

anybody got any suggestions??

cheers,

sheepers.

my MS75 was a pretty sweet daily. if it was the only car i owned and i had the time/could be arsed putting a 2JZGTE in it it would have ticked all the boxes.

but i reckon an LS400 with a supercharger on it would rule.

TBH, I'm pretty happy with rolling my JZA23 on a daily basis. its not bad on fuel as long as you stay off the loud pedal and its very good to drive. front end is a bit heavy to park but i only ever park it at work.

i guess that its not a daily cauz i would never park it at the supermarket............ and the boot is about the size of a matchbox.............

YAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

paint the bastard, then youll be megga keen to drive it..

choice one bro.

also, hows the family? all good in the hood???

latter,

sheepers

Ive always hated the way the car sat so high at the back. its been like that since day one and its pissed me off completely. not to mention the handling issues associated with having the arse in the air.

anyway, there has been some talk about height adjustable rear suspension so i thought i would post what i had done.

really not a difficult job. i now have a completely height adjustable rear, and i can change spring rates with straight off the shelf parts. and because i have a good relationship with my suspension parts supplier i can try any spring i like and if its no good i can give them back with no charge! sweet.

there's more than one way to skin a cat, but this is how i did it.....

first you have to remove the old spring cone/bump stop. just drill out the spots.

then get some 2 1/2" pipe (63mm OD) and cut two lengths about 20mm long. make two disks from 2mm plate about 90mm in diamater and weld an M8 nut in the center.

then weld the bits of 2 1/2" tube onto the disks somewhere near the middle.

i don't have a picture of these before i welded them to the car but this is one welded to the car.

you cant see it in the photo very well but 90mm is about the same diameter as the spot welds that held the original cone in place so it makes it easier to line up the new plate when your tacking it into place.

NOTE, once i had welded the plates into the car i then used the nut as a guide and drilled and tapped an M8 thread right through the body of the car. and this photo shows the stock bump stop in place.

next i got some standard coilover sleeves and welded them onto the original spring perches.

this takes a bit of fucking around and you'll probably have to put the diff in and take it out a few times to get the angles right.

as the diff doesn't move directly up and down (especially as it gets to the top of its travel) you need to compromise with the fore and aft angle of the adjuster sleeve.

these two photos show how much the top of the sleeve moves back as the diff goes down.

in the "up" photo the bump stop is inside the top of the sleeve, i intend to make a tube with a solid top to go inside the sleeve for the bump stop to push on. the bump stop will not go into the sleeve when its all finished.

then all you need is to adjust you height till it suits what you want and once your happy with the height and spring rate get your shocks shortened to keep it all captive.

i have koni shocks that have enough travel to allow the drop in height at the back of the car with out binding but you'll need to check what you can get away with.

oh, i also made some extensions for my bump stops so they would have some support rather than just the nut. all i did was cut some lengths of tube about the same diameter as the backing plate on the bump stop and extended the M8 stud that sticks out of the back of the bump stop.

you can kind of see it in this pic.

i have dropped the back of the car by 65mm and i lowered the front by 20mm. it has made a huge difference to how the car handles and ive only had it back on the road for a week, cant wait for the next track day....

ill post some pics of the car if it ever stops raining.

if you have any questions just ask.

it stopped raining.

latter,

sheepers.

790 is about right for alloy. i rang around all over auck and real deal were the cheapest.

real deal will make you a show quality radiator. Dave is very good at what he does.

spend the money, you wont regret it and it will look real flash in your open engine bay type setup.

sheepers.

^^^ yea, top tip. you can use a hacksaw to make flutes, if you try to make it look like a tap sort of thing youll be away.

you know what were on about?

yea, na you've got your wood drills and your steel drills up the shit.

a sheet metal brad point drill is exactly what were all talking about, your thinking of the more common brad point wood drill (see earlier post) which has "wings" for some fucking reason that i don't care about because its for wood and wood is weird.

i think why my post was so negative is because you didn't really offer any help or way of moving forward, all you did was tell someone else they were wrong. any idiot can do that, and i think your a bit smarter than that.

sheepers.

what your looking for is called a "brad point drill".

"as engineers" you should have known that wayne...............

and dont go giving me any crap about using them on wood only or any other shit for that matter.

if you go into trade tools and ask for a brad point you will get what you need.

prob cheaper at R J pattersons though..

i cant fuckin drive it. there must be something massive that i dont know about because all i see is a page with a few bits and pieces on it and fuck all else.

is there more and if so how does one get to "more"?????????

vin/low volume was a cunt. but only because the useless bastard complier dudes i used were fucking shit house. but like all crap companies, they went bust so ha ha to them.

not really a big issue, you just have to jump through heaps of hoops and spend lots of cash. dont be in a hurry either.....

also, dont leave anything in the car. lost a pretty comprehensive/expensive set of tools when it went for "cleaning". this cleaning entails pointing a waterblaster at your half open windows for 10 minutes, then charging you 200$, oh, and also steeling anything that you leave in the car.

basically be prepared to bend over and be fucked repeatedly for about 3 months. after that you have your car on the road.

sheepers.

if you actually put cheese in the fins it will give you more horsepower, its the "curds effect" pioneered by the famous dutch engine designer "Schmelting Van-incident" look it up on wickapedia. second to an oldschool tec thread wickepidea is the most precise knowledge available on the net.

black intercooler = 20 RWHP straight away. no doubt about it. i painted mine black because a guy on toyspeed said to, also black is closer to red and red is way faster than any other colour. ferrari's are red for a reason.

seriously, if you can measure a difference in RWHP between a black intercooler and the same intercooler without paint ill give you 100$. paint it any colour you like.

awesome you should make some kind of crazy arse wide body for it too, all 70's style

one day i will do this.

my plan for this car (at the moment) is to one day have it as a dedicated track car. lots of wide tyre rollcage recessed firewall type shit all, up, in, your, grill.

sheepers.

Do a skid

waaaaaaaaaaaaayyyyyyyyyyy ahead of you there.

the air dam i want to make for the front of it will be a replica of the ones used in Japan when they raced these in the 70's

i want it to look like its the same era as the car. my mate is pretty handy with an english wheel so we should be able to get something hat is pretty close.

were going to make a front for it in the next couple of months. my mate who can make shit like that is moving his workshop so hell be off line for a bit.

im currently making some adjustable coilovers for the back so i can get the ride height right. its way to high at the back....

brad im so keen on that pie, when's the next OTP in hams? i might have to come down.

shit pics taken with my phone but you get the idea........