Mr Revhead

Between my daily, the Chevette, and 2.5 Imps I have no room for another car!!!

Another +1 for the green bonnet to be refitted. Also I personally do not like more camber on rear than front.

But yeah, am amazed at the condition! Awesome!

Did you spot the cheap one on TM in mot late last year? I was tempted to look at it but decided I'd best not as I have no room/time/money for another car.

I do loves trumpets

Could try using this:

http://www.toyodiy.com/

To look at the parts to spot the adjusters

There's a Vauxhall club?!

I've been meaning to go here: http://www.basisnz.com/index.pasp so maybe could tie that in?

Also if you wanted to make a day of it and get wild there's the Omaka aircraft collection and car collection.

But then we're getting away from the quick and easy cruise idea.

Could also try the guys at Victory racing no other option works out.

Heating up the cooling water would say to me your system is too small or inefficient.

Different applications will differ but they don't need a lot of water to stay cool.

I used a Subaru rad and exchanger on my AW11. Granted not super power and the lines front to back gave it a bit more capacity but even on a 30+ deg day and a back road thrash the intake was still cold to the touch and the exchanger the same.

However I too would go for a A2A in a race car if allowed as the main benefit I feel in W2A is a more stable intake temp in vaired driving conditions. Whereas a race car only needs to work flat out with lots of air flow.

Sounds like a good drive for the Chevette.

Guess I should Wof and Reg it then!!!

Lol a dirty shell on a trailer? I don't think so!

Theres a few imps in nelson. Warwick has 2 in unbuilt state at present. The person who bought stiletto off tm is from nelson (well his profile says that).

All going to plan ill have mine at nelson show in feb.

Which show? must hook up! I'd like some photos of my Viva nest to an Imp or two, them being from similar period etc.

This Warwick. Will he finish them or not?

Bloody hope I do! Will get a lot more done when I shift the Chevette to the lock up and one of the Imps to garage at home. That's Januarys plan anyway!

http://www.nelsoncarshow.com/

It's mildly average, but at least it's here! I'll have the Chevette in it

No, it just means they have been lying around for a while. The squishy noise is the oil dispersed through the oil going through the valves.

Stand them upright and work them a few times (like you would before you install new shocks) squishyness will go away and they will get firmer.

If they were leaking you'd see oil

Push the bar pin out using a vice and appropriate sized sockets/pipe/whatever etc.

If I'm reading right you will need to swap them into the Isuzu shocks to mount to the Hiace?

Then get new bush's to suit the taper of the Isuzu shock and the od of the bar pin.

Autolign do many types of taper bushs in single piece and two piece. In both rubber and urethane.

I used to do it all the time when I was at Autolign. Either Ian didn't click as to what you wanted, or he was having an off/lazy day.

try an oil catch can to remove oil fumes, worked awesome on my 101. be sure to take feeds from both pipes from the rocker cover. a few different ways to do it, with each having slightly different results.

no need to rest ecu when replacing knock sensor, the ecu doesn't store that fault, replacing the knock sensor instantly cures that issue. be a sad sad world if your ecu was that slow to react dead knock sensors throws ECL, code 52.

The leaky caps is mainly a 101 problem i think, will cause arse running and stalling with no fault codes. among other things.

Also check timing, should be set with ecu in diag mode, (bridge two terminals, e1 and te1 iirc) blacktops are petty border line on out fuels with pre ignition

I reckon they looked at electronic calculators, and thought "we HAVE to got make cars that look like those."

fuck i think your onto something there!!!

rule of herald corning

never lift off.

ever.

i learnt to drive in a wagon

gutless evil handling things!

though i have seen some rapid vitesses.

rear suspension is the worst part of them

that and the scuttle shake

ZE crank is the same as all other 4age cranks from redtop onwards....

TRD only do head gaskets, not the head set. stock head gasket is good for plenty of boost, so you would only need the TRD one if you were after a small compression increase or mass boost.

new genuine gasket set is cheap and has everything in it bar injector o'rings.

stock headbolts are also upto the job, so you dont need ARP ones unless going extreme or will have the head off a few times. but i would go with ARP rodbolts.

but then again i dont know shit

Unless you get the later 7 rib block the 4agze is going to have better internals hands down for what is needed to sustain30% increases... Redtop has different compression ratio too not best suited to forced induction..

yes the 4agze has better PISTONS, but its been proven many times that the bigports can handle boost.

what i suggested is a good cheap and effective option that improves many aspects of the car. if the poster decides another option suits him better, fine. i will live. but he has asked for opinions. and they have been given.

wayne... cheap remarks? your the one who launched into a failed attempt to get at me. again (jeez you really are obsessed with me arnt you )

as i just mentioned, my suggestion is a good one that would make a huge improvment over a stock AW11. ok he may not want to go that way, fine. but its still a good option.

heres another good suggestion... GET OVER IT.

you have tried many times to get at me, going to some pretty low, immature and rather under handed lengths of dubious legaility and you have failed every time. ffs grow up

or are you going to get your flatmate to lay false complaints with my work again?

i really wish you would just drive down here and look me in the eye when you spout off your bs

in future please keep your petty bs off the forums. either ring me or come see me.

i knew you wouldnt be able to keep ya pie hole shut wayne

my car when you went in it, has no relation to this thread at all.

try again

yes, repower would be mean, but seroiusly, so random for room under there, like, original motor is on a mega angle.... so anything mean would require like, dry sump or something, though g13b from swift gti would be crazy motor, rev mental

Allan

2TZ-FZE from a estma! 2.4 s/c engine that lies on its side

buy a good running redtop bigport, a pully kit and a water to air intercooler (legacy or GT4)

slap all the s/c gear on the redtop, install the IC do the ABV mod. away you go laughing

then sell the dud 4agze longblock for prob what you paid for the redtop. and spend the $$$ you have left over on the suspension and rust repairs

what can i say, everyones entitled to me opinion

you should dig it out of the shed and take some more pics

thats the same bits as i have in my wagon

no problems at all

infact, i bet it would out handle 99% of the cars on here

but the 4k wont out drag them

if it was a rare model it may get near that....

the factory LSD etc would help

other wise id say half that....

a quick look on TM didnt help much, only found 2 one GTHO replica for $30k and one stocker same colour as this one, not sold for 10k.

vauxhall velox

do it like an american street machine

i dont really think there is any under rated oldschool cars.... everyones jumping on the "oldschool" bandwagon. so now anything pre 86 is deemed cool. even the total automotive orphans like izuzu piazzas and mitsi tredias