EFI_LC

Microtec have a local and it was him that offered his services, he has supplied quite a few for different people around these parts. Personally i have had no experience with them but if he reckons he can do it then I trust him, I can do some tuning myself as well. Locked diffs are as consistent as the track surface, and will put more heat variance into the tires as well. Sure I could overcome it by driving hard but all that does is wear out components and the diff will eventually brake or axles will, then you need heavier components whic adds drag and weight. If my mate reckons its worth up to 2 seconds a lap then it is. His favourite saying is "It takes many crumbs to make a cake". A good race car is made up of many things and weight is always a compromise of what cost. He has helped and built many race cars including a certain V8 starlet Cheers, and thanks for the interest and comments.

Ok I either need to replace my coil type and the end of the coil led or replace existing coil with a harder to find one. What do I do, it has a male connection inside the coil connection, I tried a spare electronic coil and it never had enough grunt to run it so i guess these things pack a punch Why do I think the coil is gone, it starts to miss badly with average to high throttle use once it gets to operating temperature. I can drive to work and back each day without a miss but if i try to go anywhere else after it misses. Oh its a E34 NZ new 1989 but the only coil that matches is a e28 M5 or 535i

Well I may have to fit a Microtec into the budget as they have offered to take my loom away and give it back ready to run. I really have taken a lot of enjoyment in the discussion and my race car builder mate who I trust with all handling decisions will not let me run a locked diff as that will lose seconds per lap and you can't get consistant handling with them generally. He is exceptionally talented at getting unconventional cars running very quickly, not so much additional power, more about handling.

Pics https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1004542572905253.1073741885.612338512125663&type=1 Vids https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wtLPu-GvNiM&list=UUTPEnxsSkmSWSlIhjnWU5pw

Thanks for that, and some mentioned the Estima uses these so it is on my shopping list. Roman what do you think about the stock ecu, as I figured I would just peel out what I don't need and hook it up, I sort of have a wiring diagram so hopefully it's good enough unless you know of a better one?

Na, sounds like money and time to me, as I say Budget bang for Bucks. I reckon I can have this mobile for $6k. I would prefer to spend some money on my BMW or SS especially the later as I am in the middle of sorting out a decent tune for that as it has 180kW at the wheels but I want more Torque for it

Thanks Roman, now thats some great info and I will be checking things out. I have only sized things up by eye at present as the car and the engine are in 2 separate places. I bought the car on TM as a gamble and that fact it had a homolagated cage, guages, seats, belts, slicks and was tidy. The diff I am unsure of at this stage as I don't know my Toyota parts too well but starting to learn. Nort sure of a diff at this stage but I have several BW housing's I could chop up and one with Nissan discs on. Not sure what ITB's are?

Take a shit load of pics and vids man... i wanna see em!

Couple of things here. Budget, $2k spent on a 6-speed J160 and Beams with 35mm titanium valves larger ports more aggressive cam and better tune etc than the auto Beams use. These things have been used in various Toyota projects for good HP but what I am after is around 200HP and to use an already RWD motor/box setup to save money and so that the dizzy sits in the correct place etc. So far as the car and a bit of fab work on it, i can do it. The car I bought has been racing for the last 15 years and has 8 rims 4xslicks and 4xroad tires. It has a LOCKED diff which is not my idea of a good handling option and will get a decent LSD asap. It has ok brakes, shocks and suspension which wont be changed until it's running. I will likely be running an after market ECU but even if I wasn't I am not that worried as the main thing to do is getting it mobile then sort the rest out. The sump is is baffled nicely and will do for now. So far a lot talk has been about another engine and thats cool as I learn from this but this car is getting a Beams It wont be the 500kW Beams which was raced in some Toyota's but it will give me some fun like my old LC Torana did with Power to weight. It won't have a dry sump or a turbo or hot cam or double rolled valve cover bolts or blah blah. But what it will have is a shit load of fun on the tarmac, grass, dirt and occasional DYO Drag racing. Love the thread..... thanks farkin heaps for the input.

It may suit you but it's not my idea and as for hp these Beams and countless other engines could be tuned way past that but again the idea of what I wanted is 200hp+ with 6 speed and RWD for $2k and just fit it and wire it, un-stressed and reliable running while i have do handling not spending my time building an engine. Well thats the plan, leave the other stuff to young guys who have fat wallets or charge it up for kicks

If you don't make it I will be taking my camera as always and get some great shots I hope

300hp stock? I chose the Beams engine for several reasons, one being over 200hp stock N/A as I didn't want the additional heat of a turbo while sorting it out, the other was a 6 speed box, the cost was a factor at around $2k for both box and motor and the weight another. I figured that 209hp with this in a Starlet should equal to a shit load of fun, I am not about what I should put in it but about what I am going to put in it and the fact it was a Toyota in a Toyota also seemed good. Thanks though for all the suggestions and thanks for the link to the previous project.

Sweetness folks, cutting is no issue for me. Sweet, that gives me something to aim for then The flywheel will give me something to change later at least and should help liven it up a bit. I have no problem giving it a nip and tuck and I will trade a bit of extra weight and height for 200hp + 6-speed compared to extracting that much from a 4a or 4k. It has already had some mods as it was running a 12a at Ashburton Street meet which is my aim to have it ready for next year.

Here are over 500 Drag Racing pics from the Recent Nostalgia Drag Racing event from Sydney and then the mid week Street Meet. Nostalgia Racing: Nostalgia Pits: Wednesday Street Meet

Just to throw something out there, I have a BW 4.11:1 from a VN wagon 4 cylinder. Apparently they run ex VL diffs so that Holden could get rid of the excess they had.

Cheers kpr, I remember someone saying it was a 6" in mine but that may have been conjecture. I will have to check them out when i get that far but this has given me some good info. I do have a few other questions: What fuel pressure do the Gen 5 3S-GE Manual tezza engines run? What clutch setup do they run, a dual pressure type or single plate? What problems have people found fitting these engines into the Starlet? What sort of Duty Cycle do the Injectors run at normally?

Well that sounds better than my option in the garage I think, a Borg Warner Nissan R31 Now to find one, I assume F is Toyota Diff model not the car model?

Ok I have pretty much a shell, roll cage and suspension and a (yuk) locked diff. I can't tell ya much more about the bits and pieces abut I am told it's pretty oldschool setup and I will get the front sorted but it will be learn as I go fitting the engine and box I have bought for it. Ok I need help with diff to fit and not too heavy. I want LSD which will do for 200hp I want to make a good job as I will re-rego it when done as it it has rego on hold. Maybe I should have put this on a project build but will do it when I start putting the motor and box in.

Anyone entering this? I will be there with my 304 powered VR now with Carburettor on as the injection was restricting the power. It sounds like we have some great import and muscle going as well. So come along to the street series where they are bringine back prizes for the street class

Thanks for that one k-trips, it was done prior to me getting it and that has been loosely partitioned to draw air from the front, I am going to try and insulate the box and all parts better as well as make the partition seal better so it can't suck hot air from the engine compartment. They painted it black of all colours. I am also going to look at venting the bonnet to allow the heat to come out of the engine bay as when it sits the heat soaks into everything under the bonnet.

Well this translated into another small step closer to the first hurdle I set, 100mph in the 1/4. Could only manage 14.3@98 but I am slowly getting there. I know where a half second or more is but it will take a couple more mods, DYO drags tomorrow and I made another small mod to the airbox to help the flow as when the air left it went into a horrible bend which looks like it restricts it so I made it a straight from a spare piece I had in the garage and turning the airbox 180 and drilling a hole in the opposite end.

Well I was lucky enough to get some Dyno time and a direct comparison to the exhaust change, what is evident is the limitation of the induction system, it hits peak power then flat-lines from 4600 to 5600rpm with only 2hp difference between. What is clear though is a considerable gain through out the rev range from around 3300rpm, I have also changed where the car shifts, 1st changes to second at about 6000rpm instead of 5200 and this helps it drop back into the power range, I am still working on second gear change as I can manually shift at around 5800rpm. Also the shift speeds and slippage now needs some work, 1st shifts in about .7 second and 2nd a little longer which I could speed up a bit. The ability to change the transmission as well as the engine means with any mod, I can make the transmission do what I want. The next big one I want to do is in performance mode add slippage on launch (Launch control) which works similar to a high stall convertor by allowing the engine to rev higher which puts more power to the ground. Anyway enough of my ramblings, here is the Dyno sheet with August runs, at around 4250 I am around 12hp and 10FtLb ahead and it holds the power and torque in the higher revs much longer. Twin 2.5" with no balance between them however the collectors are limited to 2.25" and may change next year sometime if I upgrade the extractors. Approx. 270hp at the Flywheel which means I am about halfway there and about 1 second on the drag strip slower than where I plan to be.

Fair enough, I got mine on the way but I may get asked where i got it.

what price were you wanting for it?