EFI_LC

Shit load of welding and re-welding as I was trying to find the best setting on the MIG for the thin Starlet metal as it only has 4 settings and I needed one between the lowest and the next setting which any more than a second would blow a hole no matter how much I adjusted the wire. Anyway I am getting close now! I have strengthened the cross member again and seam welded as much as possible

I may cut and lengthen the rear flare/arches to allow 15" wheels, the fronts may be ok. Once I have it ready to 15" wheels then I can get a decent diff and larger brakes later. After work today I angled the handbrake and tacked the rear section of the gearbox tunnel. I intend on pot riveting the top piece on so it can be removed to get the gear lever off if needed. I will take care to make sure its has no sharp edges and will remove the engine and box before finishing it to make sure I have clearances. I am then going to weld all the holes no matter how small in the firewall as if I have fire I don't want anything getting at me.

So today I completed the gearbox mounts although I need to tidy them to look nicer. When the 6-speed mount is used it hangs as low as the rear foot wells, I will however need to use the 2 piece tail shaft. I have heard and witnessed that any engine revving over 7000rpm in the Toyota range is recommended to use them, something to do with Harmonics and coming from a Holden 202 I know all about bad harmonics. The 202 would drop flywheels if revved over 6000rpm. I also pulled the back flare off as the last owner used the stock tank and pumped fuel up to a surge tank which is what I will do as well, I need to make a hole in the flare to get to the fuel filler or turn it to face the inside and fill it through the hatch.I thought I would size up my 15" DOT race tires as this is the size I want to eventually use.

Sweet, that's music to my ears Roman. I may have to work out how to rig an OBD-2 into the loom I guess its only a half dozen or so wires needed I hope. The throttle response shouldn't matter to me, I might have to follow your lead on this. After I get the car running I still need to fix the suspension, install a LSD and build a trailer before I start on the engine and clutch so the least I need to do at this stage the better. Today I got the gearbox mounts made and welded in, I find the building of the car easier than the electronics.

Sounds like the old carb vacuum secondary except smarter, must be great for economy if i wanted economy An aftermarket computer is an expense I could do without until later as i need some cash to spend on a couple of big needs

Thanks for the advice, I am thinking of using an after market computer either to replace or to intercept the signals but haven't decided yet So with the 2 tps, is that one on the accelerator pedal and one on the engine, do they need to relate position? just wondering if I could piggyback off the one sensor? What sort of problems does the traction sensor do and how does it work, could I send a permanent signal to it that it had traction?

//oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/46241-efi-lcs-starezza-kp60altezza-engine/ Well I have been trying to find information on the model engine I have and in particular the ECU. I have found a bit of info on the wiring which is useful but I may be missing some sensors, depends if I can sort them or source them I guess. Can anyone help identify if the ECU I have can be wired up to run or is the anit-theft version that requires the original ignition and key?

Well it's been just over 2 weeks and a couple of hours each night after work and trying to do the usual and work on this on the weekends I feel I am making good progress, I have the engine in and out about 6-8 times measuring eyeing things up and testing etc.. I have some more pics showing the mounts tacked in. I welded the back up and may weld a small brace on the front but by leaving this open I can unbolt them easily. Sitting nicely although slightly one side but plenty of room This is the right side gearbox mount, just need to weld a couple of nuts in the correct place, the flat side welds to the tunnel and the other side I have contoured to fit the floor, I need to spend some time grinding the

Well Christmas slowed me down a bit and I needed to do some house maintenance as well but I have the engine mounts made and positioned and tacked in while I Double check clearances around the bottom of the engine. I took some pics before I finished with the current position and noticed the sump was very close to the bottom lip of the crossmember so need to double check that as well as the 5mm clearance of the crossmember in the centre where it has a raised piece. I have positioned the engine more to the left to give clearance to the brake booster and since I sit on the right figure it shouldn't affect it too much. Now that has been done I can now Fabricate the gear lever area. I would have built an entire new tunnel but as the roll cage has 2 bars meet on top of the tunnel I can't raise it any further. Fabrication to do tomorrow: Gearbox mount, I have 100mm gap and also need to weld a plate to the top floor to beef it up. Gear lever enclosure Crossmember over tunnel Move and raise slightly the handbrake (to give more room for the driveshaft so the back of the gearbox can sit as high as possible)

Spent another hour and a half after work and this part is almost finished and I am happy now my jigsaw has almost been done and just a minor hole to fill and some tidy ups. This car is already stronger than it was, Fill the gap Trim the overhang

Did a bit more panel bending and a little welding tonight after work, pot riveted a piece in to weld later. It's slowly taking shape, I should be able to start on the engine mounts soon and still have the hardest for last, the gearbox mount and the fabrication of the gear lever part and this will combine as structural for the centre cross member. While I am under the car doing the gearbox I will weld some seams to hold another 20 years of racing I need to fold the top of the back section forward to follow the tunnel angle then weld in the other pics box then cut the left and bend forward to meet the the other pics box. This should create almost a complete closed in firewall. Other tidy ups will be easy then weld it all up

I made a cardboard template then found a use for the spare commodore boot that I was given

It's been a lot of years since I last welded panel steel and it showed but hopefully

I did a bit more today when I finally got time. I was unable to do any welding as I am borrowing a little mig and got it tonight. I can see plenty of work coming up. I cut a bit more out and was able to move the engine back so that #2 is just behind the front wheels. The Plenum now sits where the firewall was, I made 1 downward cut and bent the firewall back to make room for it, Once I tidy the firewall I will be making a totally new tunnel around the gear lever and adding strength back into the floor as the body cross member was cut before I got the car. The plan for the handbrake is to move it sideways so it is beside the gear lever, I wont need it very often. I thing on the urgent list after its running is I need to raise the suspension back up a bit as all the geometry and performance is shit but will make a multi-link rear at the same time so I will spend a bit of time the way it is until I get another diff. Plenty of other things as well but the big one will be wiring this thing.

This build is impressive, I have heard about the things that go on in the barn but this is just plain mean. The way that engine sits back it will handle so nicely with the suspension work, I am looking long term to do a rear set up similar in my Beams Starlet. The MK1 was one of the best looking cars and this has just made it look even better

Bit of a cutting and trying a few times to make sure i have the right amount done. I still need to raise the tunnel a bit more as the 6-speed sits quite high. Other than that I will remove the old 12a mounts to make some more room around the oil filter. Bit of mig welding over the next few weeks and it should be done.

I Decided to go circuit racing and what ever else including club day, grass, cross etc. so bought a we starlet which has had some racing for the past 15 years or so. I figured having a homolagated cage and kitted out with some gear plus 2 sets of wheels was a good start. The Plates are live and on hold so maybe one day..... Here is it so far. 12/12/2014

I will be posting Pics once I get them all processed. This is Teams racing for the Kevin Mac memorial trophy. and last year had 120 cars entered!

I will be following this thread as I am doing a KP60 Altezza with Manual 6 speed. I am clearing out my garage currently so I can fit the Starlet and start on it maybe next weekend

Yes and it still puts out more power than the efi.

Hi Bart I had mixed success, I slowly mad e some changes but was suffering from timing issues, I change to a new type of tune and went backwards, I had another problem which I wasn't sure of so stopped any further runs. When I got him I checked and sure enough I had broken the passenger side engine mount, it actually pulled one of the earth straps off. I had a bit of a talk to a mate and now have started again on a tune, Using 0 computer advance at 400 & 800rpm and 4.5 @ 1200 I can now start it with more static timing which it needs and have stopped the pre-ignition when turning it off. I now have a slight stutter on the carb now when I use any more than 1/2 throttle off the line, I found I could stop this with advance timing before but was unable to find a balance which allowed the engine to wind over easy, idle and stop nicely. Looks like I may need to adjust the carb before I try any further timing adjustments although I need to try and find the limit of how much timing I can run 400/800/1200rpm yet. I am learning and now I feel I am very close to finding the lower down tune. It likes to idle around 1200rpm, this helps when putting it in 1st as it drops to 700-800rpm, anything lower than that causes the idle to be quite rough and I can't add timing to smooth it because of what i described above and the cam causes the engine to have less vacuum. Sorry sr1600, I have a set of rotors buried in my back shed and will need to measure

Its a Pro Comp, so nothing special I added a Carter Electric Fuel Pump today and a regulator and gauge, I was using a Fawcet style up to now as they are pretty good for stock Holden motors but may have been struggling up top. I adjusted the float level as I had an issue where the adjustment was a bit low on the rear float. I puled out the mains and replaced them with the standard jets but wasn't happy so went with an in between jet to try. The drive to the Drags tomorrow will make up my mind if it was the right choice. Then I may have a tinker with the spark and may put into action the extended map to 6500rpm instead of 4800 to see if it will red it. Initial drive feels more responsive down low but not up to where the Injection was but still pulls well over 4000rpm.

I have made some progress with the Carburettor and achieved 180kW at the wheels which is a 15kW and now it revs well over 6000. I will give it another run at the drags on Sunday before making judgement though as after finding a vacuum leak and fixing it I reckon it will be running a bit rich. I will pull the plugs out after a couple of runs to check how they are burning.

Lady Wigram Revival 2014