d.p.n.s

didn't even open the door to that garage last week....

but pulled finger and got some shit done today..

the fuel system is now done and tested ..fuel pressure set to 45psi.. and no leaks.

finished up the wiring .*fuel pump relay and trigger * boost controller and switch for low and high boost *shift light * wideband o2 and also wired it to ecu... cleaned it all up .......and even plugged the laptop in to check for ecu....that works but I need an unlock code ... lol bought it 2 years ago and now just using ut so I fired an email off to nzefi and hopefully they can send me one..

so that the engine side of the ecu all wired up and plugged in .. relays done for ecu main and coil packs...

on advice from a mate I ran all 4 ITB runners to 1 vacuum manifold and ran FPR and MAP of that and I also ran brake booster aswell... so thats all vacume hoses done aswell..

still need to run wire to boost switch, boost solenoid  , wideband o2 ,.. put a relay in the boot and wire fuel pump...and put ends on spark plug leads.... oh and get spark plugs... but then it might be time to try and fire the old girl up..

needed to do som maintenance on the focus ... one of the rear wheel bearings was making a hell of a noise so thought I would just do both.

you can but a complete hub with studs an all from any focus fiesta with 4 studs.... but replacment bearings where just Over 50bucks to my door..(I've git other projects draining my wallet).

next was the thermostat housing..I thought it was leaking from the bung on the bottom (think it's for turbo coolant times on the rs)

but turns out that the side of the seal place as gone

the new one bought didn't have any of the holes drilled for temp sensor or bottom bung ...so figured it can't leak from there then.

I doubled up on the temp sensor  o ring  then put the clip in ... and no leaks. 

gets up to temp quicker and the heater is amazing... think the old one was stuck open  (191 odd thousand ks) as this is the 1st time the temp Gaughan gone to half way and stayed there ... use to hover around 1/4..

when I got home from work yesterday I started again and rerouted the wires..

I just need to add ignition +from the fuel box to the engine bay side for the main relay.... and the signal and positive  for the boost solenoid out the drives side.... but that is all the engine bay wires run.....

I am really starting to get my head around it and the HP academy videos have helped a lot...

got a few things done this week.

1st was the oil filter .. the pinto one hots the plug end of the IACV.

so I did some professional googling and found the xflow has the same 70mm diameter seal but is only 80mm in diameter and the pinto was 92mm.

getting to the oil filter is a weeeee bit harder now .. just need to get in from the aide behind the passenger front wheel

also filled it with new oil... the new cam belt turned up with the filter and oil so I I put that on with all the timing marks spot on......that then allowed me to be able to bolt the crank and home triggerwheels on.

I had noticed a few things when I was under the car... one of them being the drive shaft wasn't sitting right and the rear drifeshaft hoop needs modification to be able to get an exhaust past it...... so out they came  ( luckily out and back in without having to remove the full interior to get to the bolts ).

once I had the hoop out I tacked it to some steel

cut a section out

and remade it... the bottom section can still be removed and bolted back on...

and that should allow some room for a sneaky exhaust.

the issue with the drivshaft was the flange on the front section close to the center bearing was hitting the center bearing ... I made new slotted tabs and welded them back on.

I then left those bolt lose while the rest of the drive shaft was in place . and I jacked the diff up and from full drop to all the way up the center bearing moves about 20mm...

so with the diff all the way up I tightened the center bolts and that flange had about 5 mm clearance  and on full drop about 10mm ..so that seems to of fixed that.

back to the motor I bolted the trigger sensors on and gapped them

I had to tighten them up and had bugger all room so I modified  a old spanner with a fucked socket.

and with the sensors now on I can put the fan and shroud back on ( still waiting on a smaller fan belt tho)

made a bracket and mounted the coil packs 

started working out ht lead length and tried the heat sleeves

and today I started on the eco harness.

apart from mounting the Map sensor  I'm pretty sure everything is all in the engine bay.

this is about all I need I believe....

( I am excited and nervous about doing this but I want to have a go and I've got some knowledgeable people I can ask when stuck).

removed all the wires from the harness I don't need

I untangled the loom so it's clean sorted and none crossed over.... I also found a spot in the firewall for a hole and started to run the loom out.

still got to mount relays and run powers and earth's.. ect ect but I'll take my time

I've been waiting on some bits to trun up ...as per the norm at the moment...shit takes awhile. 

so I thought I would Crack on and get a few over buts ticked of the list..

one of the buts I'm waiting for is a cam belt...(few bits I can't get on till that's here).

worked and and welded up both triggers.. at TDC I put the crank trigger 90° to the sensor and the cam trigger 180° to its sensor.. 1 thing Zac told me when I was annoying him with questions was just make sure they don't trigger at the same time... so I figcarnk turns 2 times to cam so that way they shouldn't. 

next was the accelerator..

I used the factory cortina outer and a suitable new inner....

made a bracket that used the mount on top of cam cover  (and while I had the cover off I drilled a hole and welded a bolt there to help support the bracket).

put a pedal in the car and madebthat end work and now have a complete adjustable accelerator pedal.

next was to do something about the factory BOV on the plenum...(not going to run a BOV).. so I dropped a washer in...welded it up ...trimmed to down (to clear ALT)  and even sealed it up for good measure. 

inlet plenum on for good now

that allowed me to make a bracket for the FPR and mount that..... and that inturn let me complete the fuel system by attaching the hoses 

I also bought a MAC 3 port boost solenoid. 

added a Deutch connector 

made a bracket and mounted that as well as putting a boost reference into the compressor  housing 

I need some proper vacuum hose.

and when I do the ecu I'm going to put a on/off switch on the 12v so when uts off it's just wastegate pressure and then on will be what ever is set in the ecu...

also on the subject of wiring I'm trying to have ago at all this by myself... I really want to learn it all and also be able to troubleshoot if I have issues so I watched a lot of HP academy  videos and made a plan of what I want .. ( it is only a Link atom x but is is also only 4 cylinders).  I would like sequential injection, direct spark,MAP,TPS,IACV,boost control, crank trigger,cam trigger ,shift light,coolant temp,air temp,4 injectors, 4 COP (built in ingnitors),hook up MTX-L wideband o2 to ecu,.fuel pump

so after doing 1 drawing and getting my head around what I need ...and then doing a cleaner better drawing  and posting it on a link ecu FB page for help ... the only suggestion I got was being a 4 cylinder I won't need an injector relay just run on main switched power... so that good.... so I did an updated drawing ..and I I'm honest the more I draw ut out the more I understand...

so here is the plan for the ecu    ... just need to get some more supplies and I'll.make a start....

some.more small things done.

the radiator sits lower than factory and there is some holes and I've been thinking about making some holes in the front ri help with air flow and cooling..... so but the bullet and did it.. went 50mm holes and around the same length as number plate.. so nit really noticeable but with the chin spoiler good air flow..

I also figured if I push the clamp on the air filter all the way up I can cut about 10mm of that and ut will fit better where I had it with the round lights..... worked a treat.

I also made a bit off alloy to help flow air to the intercooler  and through the rad.... not to worried about the other side as what does go through the oil cooler goes to the air filter anyway...

and number plate bolted on.

I mocked a motor up (no pistons ,rod ,sump ect ect ) just things I need to k ow what room I have purely because it's easy to work on than through the rad hole in the front..

while I've been working away there have been a few things I've thought about and would like to change ... one of them is the home trigger/signal I made from falcon and pinto dizzy

reason being is its right under the inlet manifold and I know all the shit that would have to be disconnected or removed ....just to get the inlet manifold off if I had to do something with the dizzy..

so I removed it and just cut down a old pinto dizzy and slapped a cap on ut for now....only job now is running oil pump. 

I bought another bigger 36-1 trigger wheel like the one I'm using for the crank trigger (still waiting for it to arrive) and I've git enough room to mount it on the face of the aux pulley... the 2 triggers should  run close but not hit...

so I took the opportunity to move the crank sensor over to the same side and mount both sensors to 1 plate...easy to get to....easy to work on.....better.

will sort them out distance wise and put back on the other motor once the trigger wheel has arrived.

I also got made the water IN that will replace the factory waterpump.

I also put a fitting in the waterpump temp sensor housing that sits in the top rad hose... that will be for water out of the turbo.

and that's it for now....more shut ticked off the list.

new shoes on and pulled her out for some pics.... not hoping to lie ...pretty stocked .

another ticked of the list.

front seats.... had to give them a big clean and will need to fix a couple of rips ... but they are pretty sweet.

ticked a few things off the list.

small hard lines on the caliper made.

also managed to get all the hard lines down.. the mk3 has this weirsetup as well ..hoses from calipers to brackets bolted to the subtame ..a hard line from one to the other side bracket and a hard line to a T... I thought fuck that so just went the mk5 route...

mk5 master with 1 rear port and 2 front.. fronts to tabs on either side of the chassis rail.... hose to calipers.

the master tool a lot to bleed up but I got there and they are all bleed....no leaks.... so thats a win ...

between the brakes and car main loom that's the 2 biggest steps I believe  and I'm glad they are done.

moved on to check some more buts off the list ..

* rear doors removed , 1 hinge swapped out .. all the proper nuts and bolts and shims and washer plates done ....all door rubbers in.... all latches bolted on ...rear doors all gapped. 

that made it possible to fit the B pillar cover ... and the front seatbelts..   , also got the sill plates in... and the front seat buckes ...

also the gear stick.....found a steel threaded one on market place ...fitted the 1st rubber boot and then  a cover from the likes of a early  x something falcon.

also had to steel some bits from the white one so got some pics....actually the 1st time I've opened the bonnet in a long time