d.p.n.s

A $600 paint job ,a rattle can of gloss black ,some wanky screws I've had on the shelf for ever and some elbow grease...

and the quick clean up job I wanted looks shit loads better than I thought it would.

wheels cleaned ,panted and polished.

oil cooler in ,intercooler in,heater In, wipers in,engine bay panels in, booster and master cylinder  in most of the loom back in.... and boot on

 

I have been doing a bit of putting back together. 

I all so bought the old 14x7 turbos back from Karl.. 

they all ways seem so much bigger than the 13s.

but with some 195s they wit very well .the 13s are 205 .

but with a clean , paint and polish.... they will look awesome 

dug some bits out and put her back to a roller....

 

then today I covered up the whole shell and understated the underside ( well most of it)...under the guards and the lower half of the engine bay...

looks so clean now.

 

 

then Wednesday evening I locked my self in the garage and painted the old girl.... no more black... it's not mint it shows up all the dents .. but it's clean..the colour is stunning and I'm stocked .... also cost me less than 600 bucks for all the materials..

 

 

was having a play with the SC14 for my nephew and looking at the carbs.

II found him a set of rover v8 carbs  and am going to mount them next to each other.

Didn't want to make a base plate and a flange for the carbs and weld some runners in as I'm want them as close as I can to the supercharger.

so I've had this idea in my head for about a week now. so I made a start.

remember  I'm not a engineer and it's all done at home with vice grips and a battery drill

so I made a base plate....holes drilled same angle as center plate..

center plate I drilled the holes on an angle to try and get them close to the SC inlet ports  and port match to base plate... and used some counter sunk screws I had from my set up. (have ordered some longer ones as I Need them as well.

and top plates that space the carbs out a bit so the linkages can move and the butter Flys can actually open..

these will all be sandwiched with gaskets and sealant when the time comes..

but they are close enough now to be able to.make 1 linkage to.move both, all fuel pots sit on the outside ...

I think it looks fucking awesome by the time I slap some velostacks or filters on..

cheers...

 

 

just the rear valance to go now..

almost all the black has gone..

the roof is as good as going to get ....I'm not that keen.

this car will be mint from a far but far from mint... I plan on driving this and it's going to get dirty and dented probably ....I just want it looking clean and not black....... it's not a 20 grand paint job ..all of the paint supplies including bog,primer,sand paper,masking sheets and tape,tack rags,panel wipe,paint ,all the thinners and mixing cups ..$580 to my door...

but one thing I will say it makes me realize the work that has gone into the other mk3 ....and if it had been this rust free I wouldn't have modified it....

 

anywhere roof and sides all done..

 

 

i got all 4 doors sanded down masked and primed.. to be honest the doors are fucking mint.... no sign of any rust..

last was the boot.. I know this had a huge dent right on the curve... I know this as I'm the idiot who did it..

I managed to bash most of it out and then some good old bog and primed top and bottom 

and last to do is the shell

 

.

so today I've been spending time measuring and I'm glad I did..
I measured the combustion chambers (internet said around 47cc factory).. this head has had a skim at somepoint and I got.
#1 - 43.1
#2 - 43.4
#3 - 42.8
#4 - 42.9.
not sure what is a good tolerance to have between them.

measure the dish in the pistons  (internet said 19cc -20cc depending on yb cosyears).
all of mine came it at 16cc.

all that I ended up with 8.873-1 CR  I'm after about 9-1 CR so that means if I got the head skimmed 0.2mm that will give me 9.043-1 and if skimmed 0.3mm that will give me 9.131-1

I put some rockers on inlet and exhaust on #1 and also slipped a standard cam in to check some clearances..
inlet lift was 9.73mm and exhaust lift was 9.52mm..

I sacrificed a head gasket and slapped the head on ( with some bluetack ) to see if anything is touching now.... the head gasket squished was 1.67mm (obviously torqued down cold ...but to 85 ft lb) the head gaskets I will be using will be 1.3mm squished. .

I realized I had missed an opportunity to see how much room I DO have between valve and piston.... so I stacket up the bluetac and bolted the head down again and put the belt back on....

 

turns out I've still got about 6mm to play with.

so far so good nothing is touching ... so next will be to contact Mr PK at kennelly cams .

cheers

 

feels like it's been ages.....

but with work,family ,house ,blah blah....I've been busy. 

I've got my nephews mk5 back for some TLC..... looks perfect now sitting  on the 13x7 hotwires I cleaned up for him and his brand new 215/50/13 tyres 

he's having troiwith fuses blowing and the stereo working and not working....

so I decided to remove all wiring for things that arnt factory and re wire them..

wires out

new wires ,relays ,battary terminal and all cleaned up and working again.

dog supervised 

it was all done and working well when he said ....." so did you figure out why the hazards lights,horn and washer bottle don't work....

I checked the fuse (they all go to the same one) and ut just blows as soon as I put a fuse even close to it...

so out it all came....removed the complete loom just down to the drivers sill.

found a perfect condition factory fash speaker (never seen one before)

I also found once I started removing the loom tape and tra ing the wires from the fuse that blows...burnt out wires ..from back of ciggy lighter and interior light.

all working and back together ready for wof this Tues 

over the past month I have been working on my body work as well.

driver front gaurd sanded down ,rust cut out and welded up,dents removed ,and all primed in max fill primer ready for final sand.

passenger gaurd straightened, dents removed ,sanded and in final primer.

bonnet has had dents removed ,drivers front edge straightened and both top and bottom in final primer.

engine bay cleaned up ,rust work done and all sanded and in final primer..as well as front panel and scuttle panel.

and finally I've been struggling getting the valves lapped in by hand and so I bought an air tool for the job.......that turned up yesterday so I made a start.

the valves and valve seats came up spot on and I checked sealing as I went through them...and kept going until it did make a seal.

once all done I put all valves in and filled all ports with meths and left it sitting...... so after 4 hours there has not even been 1 drop... so ill take that as a win

just need to borrow a mates Walter white chemistry set to measure the combustion chambers.. and then figout how much to get the head skimmed...

and then it will be cam time....

cheers

 

borrowed a mates valves seat cutters and thought it's about time I learnt/ had a go.

took some cutting 

but big valves all in

I then got a vivid and cokothe cut face in and lapped the valves. 

you can see by the black how much I can now open the port upto for the new seat

I only got as far as getting #4 done but it certainly opens it and and I was also able to remove heaps more from the inlet port floor where it falls off to the valve seat.

 

opened to valve seats compared to just cut

and a shot inside the ports.

still got 3 more to do and some cleaning ... then I'll be able to measure the CC and decided how much I want off the head.

working in and around household and life in general duties I got the inlet ports of the head done...

you can see on this section of head how thin it is around that back of the port and where I went through on the last on.... (don't worry about my feet I had my safety jandles on most of the day.)

and this is the area I was paranoid about going through at the opening...as I had to open the ends up to match the adapter plate. 

but that's as far as I'm willing to go.

tried to get them as even as possible. 

and with the plate on

 

had some parts finally arrive and with some parts that arrived last month and the fact I've given up on the gasket set and head gasket ever showing up..... I but the bullet and grabbed a gasket set from palmside (will look for another head gasket later on.....the one from palmside is fine for a standard rebuild... but maybe not for what I want).

so cleaned and area up and cranked on with the bottome end.
*new main oil gallery plugs
*new stainless frost plugs
*burtons block btrather
*1600 xflow OIL filter 
*new spigot bearing
*new seals and gaskets.

and that most of the bottom end together now.and all wrapped back up and put away..

should really Crack on with the head....and body work.

cheers

 

grab a tin of paint stripper yesterday and set to work..

got a spare rocket cover and a cam cover I'll have to modify done.

then I started on the engine bay..

there was a few volours on the slam panel.. factory primer ,factory blue ,then red then white primer and finally black..

but not in the engine bay itsself.. I know that it sat in a panel ship for 8 years and they may have done shit as the engine bay was just the white primer and then black...

there was some bog over holes..so ill cut some rust out and the go from there but all in all bloody clean...

not paint striping the lot as I'm going to spray some areas with underseal.