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d.p.n.s

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Posts posted by d.p.n.s

  1. yeh do it bro theres loads of poelpe that have don it in the uk

    for the auto cross racing.

    sticking gsxr1100 in minis and huabusa motors.

    i remeber reading some where about a guy that put 2 busa motors

    in his mini one up front and one in back and the thing was so brutal on take off he said it was like hav your face pushed threw your skull

    how cool is that.

    oh and you have the bike gearbox for nice clutchless changers :twisted:

  2. or you can get 2 poeple and some rope.

    1 put the rubber on the screen

    2 feed some thin rope aound the window (in the grove that will seal it to the body) and just make sure both end of the rope hang out in the bottom of the screen in the middle.

    3place the screen onto the car and makesure both ends of the rope are inside the car.

    4 get your mate to push down on the screen from the outside and from the top

    5keep the pressure on and pull 1 side of the rope as your mate keeps pressur on it

    6keep pressing as your pulling the rope and the rubber will lift and slot into place.

    just do that all the way around the screen till the top and pull with the other but of rope till they meet at the top and pull them out.

    and your screen will be in.

    or you could pay someone to do it but ive always done mine this way.

    hope that helps..

    dan

    All those above steps are what the dudes at novus did to mine...the apprentice was pushing on the corner and i said... "are you meant to be pushing on it like that" and then it snapped........................

    aslong as your only pushing on the rubber then it will be sweet.

    ive even banged the rubber as it goes round with my hand and i havnt had 1 snap yet.

    it is easy to do once you get started

  3. or you can get 2 poeple and some rope.

    1 put the rubber on the screen

    2 feed some thin rope aound the window (in the grove that will seal it to the body) and just make sure both end of the rope hang out in the bottom of the screen in the middle.

    3place the screen onto the car and makesure both ends of the rope are inside the car.

    4 get your mate to push down on the screen from the outside and from the top

    5keep the pressure on and pull 1 side of the rope as your mate keeps pressur on it

    6keep pressing as your pulling the rope and the rubber will lift and slot into place.

    just do that all the way around the screen till the top and pull with the other but of rope till they meet at the top and pull them out.

    and your screen will be in.

    or you could pay someone to do it but ive always done mine this way.

    hope that helps..

    dan

  4. just mount the r1 pump in the engine bay

    but you will need the r 1 pump other wise they can be a pian in the arse

    to set up and having the pump would just eleminate one of the set up prob.

  5. mate oyu can get a good gravity feed (best in my opinon) gun from the like of miter 10 for fuk all and like whats been said keep it clean and it will last the major thing is a good compressor if you just useing a 2hp supercheeap one it will work to hard and fuk out like the ones ive had in the past.

    in saying that i have sprayed a car with a 2hp using a touch up gun with the fan open wide and it was a good job 8)

  6. just a note on shaving the pistons it is an acceptable thing to do depending on the piston design and how much meat it has. Usually its just taking the raised section off a na piston to make it flat. Alot of piston failures are around the gudgeon and ring lands so taking it off the tops ok, but I cant really comment on rb30 pistons. Mates 1uz with shaved pistons twin turbo is around 450whp for 5000kms so far. Oh and the holes in the pistons you were talking about wouldve been detonation damage so a good tune is very key in turbo apps

    thanks mate.

    i use to just shve the top of my pinto pistons and turbo it only ever realy had 1 shit itslf.

    cheers

    dan

  7. SORRY BUT THIS IS A BIT OF A LONG UPDATE

    READ AT YOUR OWN RISK

    ok to update on my mk1

    well to be honest ive done fuk all :rolleyes:

    i made a rollover jig out of wood and to my amazement it worked. :lol:

    i have completely stripped the shell.

    it was a pain in the arse to get the doors off but with some heat and a FBH

    the came flying off.

    i striped the doors out and started to strip back to bear metal and to be honest the doors are mint.

    so ill prime them and put to one side.

    i was going to do the boot and bonett but have decided to sell them in sted.

    ok so Methodz100 told me of a project he had seen were a guy was done the same as what i was planning so i searched the web and found it.

    it belongs to a guy called Brad here in chch heres a pic

    e1yh0.jpg

    he makes fiberglass panels for cars and does a fuking good job aswell some of the best ive seen

    his buisness is (PSL)page services ltd 03 3238662 and hes a shit hot guy aswell.

    so i contacted Brad and he let me come and have alook at his car and pick his brains about a few things.

    he also told me what he would do if he was starting again.

    so armed with what i had planed and some advice from a guy wwho has done most of what i had planed heres the plan.

    well im going to buy a vl cominwhore with the rb30 and 5speed (when i find one cheap) :rolleyes:

    *i will modify the front to fit the vl crossmember and struts,sterring rack ect

    *next i will take the vl diff and if its drum will change to disc the cut all suspention off till is just the diff and i will tub and turret the rear and make my own 5 or 6like setup

    *weld some barcing in the car and cut out the fire wall(just abit)

    *then ill take the rb30 and box and sit it on the vl crossmember(will have to modify mounts to fit modifyed crossmember.

    *then i will cut out the complete fire wall and tunnel with g,bos mounts out of the cominwhore.

    *the cut out the same in the mk1

    *bolt the g,box to the g,box crossmemberand lift till its the smae hight as the mk 1 floor and tac the tunnel and wall inplace.

    and then ill go from there but you get the idea.

    dan

    heres some more of brads car

    e3uo6.jpg

    e2rp0.jpg

  8. this is posted in my project build up aswell

    ok so the guy with the escort with the rb30 in it is brad he has a company that makes some fuking nice fiber glass body parts its called PSL hes elling stuff on trademe like boot bonnet, and bubble archs,

    hers his escort and a vison of mine to come

    e1yh0.jpg

    well any way he let me go and have alook at the beast and dude its even meaner in the flesh i cant wait to start mine.

    he had loads of realy good advice and things he would have done differantly if he was strting again.

    so with the advice and ideas we both had it has given me a huge kick up the arse to get started.but befor i do i want to get most of the parts needed first.

    its by no meens will be easy but it will be worth it in the long run and it will be a slow build as i will be doing it once and right the first time.

    cheers

    dan

  9. Metal head gaskit is prob better but expensive.. and I dunno if they do them for the sohc head. Im assuming he wont skim the whole piston but rather dish them.

    If your building on the cheap, which sounds the go then just run with two head gaskits for a start.

    What turbo you going to run and are you going to keep it sohc? What boost?

    Mates got an Rb30 with 25 head and an GT35/40 running healthy 14PSi boost. Thats on standard comp ratio and is lasting fine so far. Guess it depends on the tune.

    Whats the website for the escort RB. I lost it years ago.

    im going to keep the sohc .

    i will dish the pistons for now and get some forged ones when i built it for the mk1.

    as for turbo im not sure yet as i havnt ruled out superchrging it.

    i count find the website but this is what i found

    http://www.cardomain.com/id/fordsan

    and hes selling things on trade me

    cheers

  10. Thats such good luck aye. Hopefully he's a good cunt. Even tiny bits of advice can save weeks of fucking about and avoid having to do things twice.

    Looking forward to the build as well man. Sounds like its going to be a winner.

    Are you going to use the rb30e head? I'm wondering if it might be desirable to get a rb25 head to put on there? I know nissan parts are pricy at the moment but a better head design may just make it that much easier to get the power out that you require and allow you to make it in a more reliable fashion.

    Just as a side note the NA engines have better cams and seem to make good power easily. With a strong bottom end perhaps an NA head would be a good idea. A mate of mine was just boosting rb20de's (I think, may have been rb25de's) for a little while for drifting. They were getting 200kw's at the wheels on quite low boost and the engine would last a couple of events then they just change everything over to a new one.

    ill stick with the rb30 head mate as its just a wee bit smaller then the twin cam head to make more room for the manifolds.

    im going to do a quick job on the motor just have the piston shaved a bit to lower the compresion make a oil return in the sump and a oil feed from the block slap a turbo on and see how it goes and what f@#kes out first.

    may even do it while im driving the vl around so when it comes time to build the mk1 ill have a better idea of what to do to the motor befor it goes in.

  11. i found the car your onabout and what a fucking beast.

    ive been thinking about this project fro sumtime now and had the car planed out in my head

    and to see it is fuking strange.

    well the guys who owns it is here in chch and ive spokin to him in the past he makes the fiberglass parts ive been wanting so i may have to ga and have alook at it.

  12. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the 25DEt boxes are the go I believe, right?

    They all differant.

    The R33 Rb25t boxes are the strongest ones of all the RB boxes... but go for close to and over 2g.. Bid on this one, it may go cheap. lol

    http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 53.htm?p=5

    Id build a RB25det or RB26det myself, while the 30 is fun & diff, its expensive to build, and dont rev as well.

    Have a look around the net man, someone has done eaxactly what you want with an escort. The site im thinking of has awsome pics etc right throughout the build and focuses hard on the rear end talking/doing exactly as you want to do. Really good info point if ya need/want one.

    Goodluck.

    i agree the rb25 and 26 would be a better motor but for the size differance

    the rb30 will be perfect and ill be able to get the hp im after out of it.

    i have also had a look into the rb30 and rb30 turbo and the na is the one i want as as it revs a hell of alot better and with the turbo set up im thinging of it sould work perfectly 8) (like things always go to plan) :rolleyes:

  13. 25DET boxes are the best bet.

    T-Rex; Nope, don't believe they are, otherwise it should have lasted a hell of a lot longer, I think strength wise the 30E slots inbetween the 20/25DE and the 20DET, with the 25DET the best of the RWD boxes. Of course, the 4WD GT-R box is better again, so.. .. 4WD 6cyl Escort? ;)

    fuk dude hahaha now that sounds........................... :rolleyes:

    no no no no more ideas ive finaly sorted it but 4wd does sound....... :shock:

    hahaha i fuking wish but that would be a major undertakin

  14. fucken hope you've got the skills to pull it off, not keen on seeing another chopped up half finished escort on trademe

    belive me mate this one will not be on trademe 8)

    ive been looking for one for so long to do this and now it starts.

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