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cubastreet

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Posts posted by cubastreet

  1. in england the day before i drove with my mates from manchester to the glastonbury festival in my mk1 transit ambulance i noticed the radiator was leaking.

    one egg in the radiator later, she was ready to go. made it.

    on the way back at about 4 in the morning one of the retreads unwound for motorway lols. haven't bought a retread since.

  2. I don't get it. a quick trademe search says a 406 is worth 5-10k, apparently $18k paid. bodykit $20k, 'engineering' 20k? altogether $58k and they want to make a profit on an unfinished project?

    I reckon the value is closer to the cost of the bodykit.

  3. Has it been that long since an update?

    Did plenty of welding on the new one, and now it's my daily. Drove it to Auckland last weekend. It didn't miss a beat and came back with a door stencil.

    steam.jpg

    It's got a roll bar now too, and impreza seats mounted on the original rails.

    Today I got new front strut inserts for $30+ each!

    PB223400.jpg

    While I was in the hutt I thought I'd pick up these too:

    EA5speed front case, EJ FWD (lower) gears and AWD transfer case.

    PB223403.jpg

    and matching viscous rear

    PB223396.jpg

    Should keep me busy for a bit. 5 gears will definitely help too.

  4. basically the aim is to take something like this

    424x600-2010012000044.jpg

    and splice a stereo RCA or 3.5mm input into the preouts from the tape deck on the main circuit board. This should allow all the native functions i.e. volume, treble/bass and even Dolby NR (if equipped) to still werk as intended. Only drawback is that a tape needs to be loaded in the deck for the aux to function - but this could actually be more of a neat gimmick than an annoyance if executed correctly.

    and of course the hurdle is figuring out where the preouts are, without breaking anything else in the process.

    Easiest place to tap in is at the volume control, this is the start of the preamp. The centre pins on the twin potentiometers are usually the input. There normally are a couple of microswitches or sets of contacts operated by the tape mechanism which control the motor and the amp, you can tap into this and put a switch somewhere convenient to turn on the amp, or just throw in a head cleaning tape.

  5. Where the metal overlaps across the tray near the back, a little bit of that strip near the front of the tray and down the back and bottom of the front wheel arches. Mostly surface rust apart from that.

    I just sprayed the underside with chain bar oil and have urethane to do the tray. Scored a rollbar for it too.

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