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ThePog

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Posts posted by ThePog

  1. apart from the paint this is by far the tidiest X I have ever seen...

    Smoke sounds like the valve guides to me as well but I will see when it is up and running.

    If I had to find another engine for it I would probably go for a late model 1600cc SOHC Tipo motor - same block, tiny bit more power, loads more torque.

    I wanted a skanker when I was looking as I was thinking of a repower with a 4AGZE out of an MR2, but this is too nice to be dicking around with.

    I would love to hear anyones modding suggestions.....

  2. Crap cellphone pics from when I first looked at it.

    IMG00098.jpgIMG00098.jpg.35401489567db5120b3ca64b442b4ed1.jpgIMG00099.jpg.04a953f3cae7ce85993c6ee2e3460e09.jpg

    IMG00099.jpg

    It is sound as, owned by an aircraft engineer for the last 14 years and you can see he has been anal in a good way all over the car.

    1981 1500cc

    Lowering springs from the UK...?

    Shocks modified for KYB inserts

    Grooved discs front and rear

    Rebuit engine '4 or 5 years ago'

    All the alloy wheel caps! :wink:

    Sports exhaust

    Rebuilt and repainted rear suspension

    Synchromesh on all the forward gears =-0

    Minor rust around windscreen and front wings

    Blown head gasket

    average paintwork

    'Smokes a bit on the overrun'

    Aircraft grade rust treatment in all the boots, pockets and cavities

    He had a rebuilt 1600 SOHC Tipo block and head he was about to drop in, but he gave up as he needed the garage space.

    I may talk to him about this a bit later in the piece - he had worked the head, CC'd it and balanced all the pistons crank etc.

    Got the X for $1000 as is.....!

    Plan is to sort the head gasket drive it for a while and see what else is wrong - the smokiness may be easy to fix - will keep you updated.

     

     

  3. You will probably have no end of trouble with the blow thru carb - collapsed floats and leaks etc - what you need to do is find an MG montego/maestro turbo and use the blow through carb from that - cheap as chips and plenty lying around where you are I would imagine.

    suck thru dodgy as

  4. Nice 124 - I had a silver CC a few years back was my daily for about 4 years - I had a mig welder and a mate with three of them in his back yard, the only reason it was the daily for so long. I painted the grille and headlight surrounds black which made it look mean.

    Does yours do that funny wriggle in the back when you hit a bump going around corners?

    Last week I got a 4wd HF integrale to drive for the day - what a beast.

  5. Ok so I have a set of EDish Ford Falcon 15" rims for the mighty lux, however thick me didn't check the nut thread for the nuts that came with them were right which they are not. The nuts are some shit imperial size and the Hilux is M12x1.5 I think. Problem is that the nuts are about 70mm long, they have a 17 ish mm diameter shank that goes through the rims then a 45 deg taper that is the clamping/centering face. I found something that may do the trick at Ripco, but true to form they were $260 for a set of 20......

    It is a 92 2wd double cab by the way.

    Anyone know the best place in Christchurch to source what I need?

    Ta

    Dylan

  6. I have a spare carb which I might slap on to see if it makes a difference. Thought it was the mechanical fuel pump, so fitted an electric one I had lying around - no difference there. The spare carb has been lying around for a while so might be a bit dodge anyway - suck it and see I spose

  7. My Fiat twincam Ladawagon has been playing up - dying at low revs then ok for a few k's then playing up again. Seems to be worse immediately after I give it some beans. Someone else has suggested resetting the carby float level as it might be fuel starvation. Haynes manual is very sketchy on the details of doing this - anyone with some advice? Carb is a twin choke downdraft weber 34DMS. Have checked all the potential electrical problems - it all checks out fine.....

  8. All it will mean is that the spring will have less travel and will bottom out easier. Spring stiffness is all about the elastic modulus which is basically the same for all steels no matter what you do to it. The only way to make a spring stiffer is to make it out of bigger diameter wire, or reduce the number of coils.

    Reducing the number of coils doesn't sound right but it is exactly the same as reducing the length of a leaf spring - this will make it stiffer.

  9. Compressing springs will not change the rate, neither will hardening and re-tempering (which would have to be done by someone who knows how - just heating them up will just soften the metal and they will break). Cutting springs will increase the rate a wee bit, but is a bit dodge for getting warrants. Best bet is to find similar length and diameter springs with a thicker material diameter off something else....

  10. Name : Dylan

    Location: Chch

    Cars you own: Lada Wagon

    Mods : Fiat 1800 twin cam, doubled front swaybar, bigass 14" steel rims (it's all relative) stealth guages.

    Cars I have owned : MkI Cortina (1600 Xflow), Triumph herald 13/60 (1500 Toledo motor, Spitfire box), 2x MkII Escort wagons (standard), '78 Triumph 2.5TC (standard), '74 Fiat 124 Sport CC (2 liter motor), '86 Ford Sierra XR4x4 ('91 2.9 V6), '93 Corolla Wagon (very standard).

    Link to pics : see www button

    How you found out about oldschool: searching google

    Anything else you want to add: I joined because of the oldschool quote...

  11. The rotor im fitting in mine is a standard engine, im not so keen on the bridgeport, rotary engines are very smooth, i like to keep them that way.

    I don't know dick about rotaries, I guess bridgeporting is what makes it go warrrp warrrp - thats about the only time I notice something with a rotary in it :D

    I knew a guy tho who had a mint original S1 rx7 that had the factory mags that looked like a rotor - guess an unmolested one like that would be pretty hard to find nowadays..

  12. You can make anything fit with enough money....

    I reckon the best bet is an 80's 2 litre block, because that will bolt in. Then if you use a thema/croma head (which you can with some small mods) you can get a turbo and fuel injection as well. One of the turbo heads (because it is east west originally) has the standard headers pointing forward in the engine bay when put on a north/south block.... perfect for turbo+intercooler plumbing.

    There is a whole lot of stuff here; http://turbo124.com/forum/index.php

    Problem then is to make sure the rest of the driveline is up to it I guess

  13. Fitted shorter shocks in both cars to fix this.

    What were the shocks from, and do you need a cert for the cut springs to get warrants? I have a set of springs out of a wrecked car to be used for just this thing, but I haven't yet got around to it.

    I kind of like that my wagon looks standard, but the pics of your lowered one make me want to do it anyway.

    A rotor would be excellent - just think of it sitting at the lights going warrrrp warrrrp warrrrp...

    Another engine option is to use a Fiat 2 liter block with a Fiat croma turbo head on it - should get 2 or 3 hundy horsepower without too much drama..

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