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Posts posted by ThePog
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Where is the best places to get some jets and air tubes etc? Cheap and slow/overseas would be fine.
I cant remember where I got this stuff from last time I needed it ..
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Pointing slightly upwards, low beam;
High Beam
Yea na
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1 hour ago, igor said:
Given that very tall gentlemen generally have rather large feet was accidentally mashing two pedals at the same time ever an issue for you? I found the pedals in a Fiat 850 Sport to be too small and close together for comfort. Is the X1/9 similarly handicapped?
I dont recall it being too much of an issue, im pretty sure i could wear my steel caps without too much drama.
28 minutes ago, h4nd said:Cain't remember if I showed you this?
Good practical wiring guide:
I have been subscribed for a while so have seen it anyway, one of my favourite youtubers....
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I might even take a pic or two for everyones viewing pleasure.
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16 minutes ago, GregT said:
3rd gear crunch....My experience - limited as it is - suggests that the origin of the synchro damage is the OE very long clutch pedal travel. Combined with the Italian ergonomics - seat well back to fit behind the wheel which makes it a stretch to the pedals - complete disengagement of the clutch is an effort. So on quick upshifts it leads to making the synchros work harder than they're happy with.
You moved the seat on this one didn't you ? Did it help ?
Pedal movement isn't an issue for me, Im 6'3". I did all sorts of things to make me fit but clutch to the floor was a given.
The box wasnt too bad, you just had to be slower than you wanted into 3rd. Who knows what hamfisted shenanigans have been going on in the ladt few years tho.
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32 minutes ago, cletus said:
China will put whatever standard they feel like on a lens to sell crappy light to round eyes
You will probably find they won't meet wof beam pattern requirements though
I just checked, they do not achieve any meaningful standard for beam pattern.
They are so shit I am not even sure they are worth selling on.
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Wife has been all 1984 about this, the thought police etc. cos she found my copy of the Haynes manual under my chair. I told her she cannot control what i think and it turns out waterboarding isnt so bad.
To be subversive i have not only been thinking about it but also buying things like this collection of wiring components. The extra relays are to replace the dogshit ones that came with that relay box. The big one is a dedicated headlight type.;
And thanks to @ynot I have a heater box now. My heater tap was seized and I broke it trying to free it up so I have ordered a generic replacement. So that is possibly the last missing item, but probably not.
Tony also gave/lent me a spare gearbox as well altho it isn't a 1500 5 speed. It is either out of a Fiat Ritmo or it is a 4 speed with 5 speed internals grafted in.
If it is a Ritmo the ratios might be better suited according to the internet.
I can't use it as is because the output is the tripode type not the CV type on my car, but the internals should swap over ok.
This is just in case my gearbox 3rd gear crunch has gotten worse, we will see in due course.
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I was just surprised at the lack of branding info etc. Maybe ill plug them into something and see what they do
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11 minutes ago, Transom said:
Do they dip left or right ?
No idea, I haven't hooked them up. You have to assume they do the correct job tho, otherwise why buy them...?
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Are these legal to use? The X1/9 came with these not the standard sealed beams.
There is no branding and almost no marking on them.
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Thats good cos you can scrape it up out of the gutter and pour it back in. Infinite recyling.
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1 hour ago, sr2 said:
A diagram of incomprehensible squiggly nonsense
Ok I will check that relay setup. It is all going to be pre set up in its entirety on a bench so hopefully i will catch any fuckery before its actually installed...
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Ooh do Fiat X1/9's pls pls
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25 minutes ago, JustHarry said:
We use phosphoric acid regularly at work.
Rinse with water because it's cheaper than meths but b quick with a prepsol and a scotch brite to clean the flash rust off. Doesnt takes a minit
So what is prepsol? Just a solvent?
Wouldnt the scotch Brite expose more bare metal to rust up again?
Also what happens with the phosphoric etc of there is still paint on there or should it all come off?
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35 minutes ago, tortron said:
Deoxidine instructions say wipe off with a clean damp rag before it drys.
Then wipe with a clean dry rag or prepsol before paint
Ok I just watched a vid of someone using it, it made sense. It looks like deoxidine is essentially the same thing as Oakite.
I might mess with a panel and see what happens.
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Yo. I would like some advice about treating steel with phosphoric acid.
I have some Oakite 33 left over from when we did powder coating, I brushed some onto something half rusty and half shiny and left it, it pretty much sorted it out.
However I imagine it would be best to rinse it and wipe it off, is that the case? If so with what?
This is so whatever I do to the Fiat is going to last....
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Sweet, I will investigate.
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41 minutes ago, BiTurbo228 said:
Yeah I was appalled at how much wiring is in an X1/9 when I started poking around mine. I tihnk half of the issue is that there's a whole bunch of wires that probably fit really neatly for LHD drive car, but they've got massive linking looms over to the switchgear and back for RHD.
I had a similar 'can I just rip it all out and run my own, much simpler wiring' when I saw the snakes nest for the first time!
Also, I can thoroughly recommend an Uno Turbo swap. Mine went great, even if it was running on 3.75 cylinders. Engine they were supposed to come with, in my opinion. Mine was a 1.3 Mk1 engine with a boost valve to a smidge under 1 bar, until the last dodgy cheap jubilee left from the PO that I hadn't changed snapped and it dumped a load of coolant and overheated, popping the headgasket. I had the replacement in the passenger's footwell for a month! Lesson in deferred maintenance...
Edit: also, on a wiring related note, if you have rear foglights I'd recommend pulling them out. They were retrofitted to UK cars to meet our regulations, but were done cheaply with wiring that clearly wasn't up to the job. This was mine when I found it while tracing a battery drain.
That was melted through all along the length of the interior, sandwiched between the tunnel and the carpet. Not often you find a car fire moments before it happens!
Edit edit: also also, I expect you've come across the advice before but if you're keeping the original wiring it's worth putting some extra relays in for the dip beams. Main beams are off a relay, but dips go straight through the switchgear and like to burn stuff out. There's also another unused main power in spade somewhere on the fusebox I can't remember. It helps to run another power feed there if you're running more electrical load than usual (say with electronic management).
I was super happy with that tipo engine, it pulled to 9k no problem and was a real screamer. So apart from fixing any mechanical issues not much will change in that area.
I ordered a loom kit today and will find an extra relay setup for the headlamps, no sense loading up vintage italian switchgear for no reason.
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21 minutes ago, GregT said:
Don't forget the thermostat controlled fan.....which invariably has stopped working.
I was told the light switch on ours didn't work when the PO got it. His wife apparently sat in it flicking the switch until the corrosion wore off. Around half an hour.....
Italian motorcycles are just as bad.
Yea all of that will get a once over when it goes back together. I have a lot of useful kit/sensors/wiring/connectors left over now the truck is mostly done, I might even go hard and replace the heater tubes that run inside the tunnel if they are looking dodgy.
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29 minutes ago, NickJ said:
One vote for toss it all in the fire and start again. Those fuses give me nightmares.
I have been looking at this, I imagine it would be an improvement;
https://www.trademe.co.nz/4211604897
I could even do a proper job using the lessons I learnt on the truck, it would have to be an easier job..
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Yea so I have been chunking away at this slowly.
First I made a bed/seating area on the router and biscuited it together. I used the router to add much lightness as you can see;
I sized the bit underneath to take a mattress so kids can sleep in there if they want which has had a lot of positive feedback. Otherwise the mattress can go up top to be half of a double bed if needed. One mattress will be the back seat base. That probably makes no sense but whatever it should work IRL.
I then fucked around for ages with the bed lift, printing many variations of the lift gears and housing on the 3d printer before giving up and ordering some actuators off AliX.
I also wasn't happy with the roof, it was going to be a pain to assemble and if anything got damaged the whole thing was a throwaway. So I rejigged it to have a light steel frame with small panels that bolted in, and this weekend got to it.
It is pretty compact when down and quite big when up which I guess is the whole point.
I ran into an issue with the lift mech, basically the motor has to lift the whole weight which it can without too much drama (after tightening some belts) but you cannot use the manual lift as it just drops straight down again. I will try to solve this with preloaded springs of some type...
This will relieve the load on the motor as well, we'll see how that goes later.
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Weber carb parts suppliers
in Tech Talk
Posted
I have a feeling I ordered a whole lot of stuff from the states or the uk last time, I vaguely remember it felt dodgy at the time.