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ThePog

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Posts posted by ThePog

  1. The 3 pin plug to caravan plug has a overcurrent breaker in a box halfway along. I can do the earth neutral connection in there (and probably mark it as modded so no future wrongness). The inverter datasheet says this needs to happen for rcd protection and i confirmed that with them.

    Lets hope the main wiring has been done by a competent professional. It has but just dont ask which profession.

    • Like 2
  2. 11 minutes ago, fletch said:

    If you are plugged into the inverter it's basically a closed system. An earth  peg is not necessary.

    If you have rcd's in your hut, you should bond the inverter body to an earth peg and ensure the earth and neutral is connected inside the inverter.

    It can, but it shouldn't be done inside the DB of your hut as then it can't be plugged into a mains connected supply without causing rcd rcd tripping issues.

     

    Ok right.

    There is an RCD/overcurrent on the caravan plug circuit, but it shouldn't be an issue plugging into shore power as that will totally disconnect the solar setup from everything else.

    The inverter has a body earth post, so this can/should be hooked up to the 230v side earth circuit before the caravan plug right...?

    I am also assuming I can just test for a connection between the the inverter earth and neutral with a multimeter? It is a decent quality 700w Nomad pure sine.

  3. PXL_20231102_1927513622.thumb.jpg.5362a14b4e6bde0f053d650cfa4ff09d.jpg

    I have built a wee cabin as an office space, I am currently sitting in that chair writing this :-)

    The cabin has a 230v caravan plug for the power connection.

    However, I am going to power this with solar so things are independent, and I intend to connect from the inverter to the caravan plug with a protected cable I bought.

    The question I have is what happens to the 230v earthing? Do I treat the whole system as floating and ignore it or tie it to earth somewhere....?

    Or am I too dumb to be doing this and should seek out a professional?

    TIA

  4. 14 minutes ago, yoeddynz said:

    Off to the scrap steel place? Bugger. I need some Iron for some wood and bike sheds etc

    Ha I did think about asking but there were only a few good sheets. I brought the garage down with a digger and most of that was only flattish because I jumped on it so it would stack better 

    Got $150 so cant complain.

    • Like 1
  5. 1 hour ago, azzurro said:

    image.jpeg.3e3dad71642715b2be7363a8104ac6d6.jpeg

    well done untangling the magneti spaghetti.

    I didnt see why you set off on this maniacal task tho?

    IME the wire and connector quality itself is pretty good, but the layout and logic is messed up.

    Is there a reason you replaced all the wires too?

     

    I mean im all for it, just wasnt sure why? :)

     

    I am a dumb fuck probably.

    But it is mostly because it looks like there has been a fairly serious electrical issue or maybe a small fire. The battery tray area has had a lot of metalwork loving and so it is possible the original fusebox just got filled up with rusty water from the battery area, I did have to clean out more grime and shit from that tray than I would have expected when i removed it. Whatever the reason, someone has grafted a new front section of the loom and fusebox onto the old one.

    I do not have any level of confidence in this work, although I don't really know why or if that is a real issue. Either way if I was to just use it as is then try and troubleshoot any issues I can see unbelievable levels of frustration and anger in the future if shit no longer matches the factory diagrams.

    Then there are some known X1/9 issues; High amp power going through the key switch, headlamp supply, headlamp pod motor supply etc, all of which should really be going through relays and have bigger supply wires. These well known issues had not been addressed at all during the rewire and if implemented would essentially be a whole lot of dirty hacks grafted in to what is there, making the loom even harder to work with and to understand.

    Plus everything was unplugged and the car essentially disassembled, TBH the decision to do it made itself.

    But yea I hear you.... :-)

    • Like 6
  6. 43 minutes ago, BiTurbo228 said:

    Wiring loom looks good so far. Making me wonder if I should do mine at some point, mainly for weight reduction! They carry around a lot of unnecessary copper...

    Any idea what the new one weighs compared to the old one?

     

    There has to be a certain saving, the factory looms have so many weird wire runs, like the power for the headlight motors then runs back to power the lighter socket as far as I can tell. Apparently if you are a guru you can troubleshoot what is broken by collating it with the other completely unrelated broken things, ie the wipers don't work so check if the left hand brake light is out sort of thing.

    I will do some checks when I get the old loom out.

    • Like 1
  7. 1 hour ago, square said:

    Cheers man

     

    Yeah I saw those things, do they have to be triggered or will just run the set time when they get the ign signal ?

    The solenoid is in already so that would be straightforward enough 

    When the ignition clicks on it sets the glow timer going for a programmed amount of time, then switches off. If the starter engages it stops that program if it hasnt ended and does another programmed on off on off thing to help things while the engine is starting. That is programmable as well.

    Its pretty simple to wire up irl.

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