mk5corty

1k = laqcuers and some acrylic enamels, no hardener used, it dries by solvent evaporation which means it is soluble by its solvent even after curing.

2k = urethanes mostly, uses an isocyanate hardner to make it insoluble after it has dried, therefore you cannot remove it with reducer or thinners.

This is unless of course you guys are using 1k as single stage urethane and 2k as basecoat clearcoat system which i have heard before.

It is generally not reccomended to mix different paint types, however i have heard of using hardener in 1k products to strengthen them.

I use 1k because it contains no cyanide and is less dangerous, however as lacquer it is an inferior and outdated product and does not bond as strong or last as long as 2k. Theres allsorts of chemical crap with 2k urethanes as the molecules cross link to form bonds but i wont get into that.

modgies and a monster tach

na but serious, sweet ride.

go the supercharged pinto.

ruthless crash, mean its coming back tho.

meh agree with RT but im not much of a jap car fan, waits for teh flamez.

exhaust wrap on manifold /\ pimpin.

sneaky fuck, i was like wtf link.

last resort pretend to be a consumer affairs watchdog or the likes and say your investigating poor worksmanship or something.

Tis not hard to paint them, hardest bit will be masking off or making a template for the black bits. Anyways, get them sandblasted or spend some time with a wire wheel on a grinder or drill and some 220 grit. When you have done that hit it with 320 grit to remove the deeper 220 grit scratches and bung some filler primer down, can use out of a can if you dont have the equipment, lay a few coats wet coats dont worry about runs your sanding it anyway, leave overnight then get out the 600 grit and sand the primer smooth, remove any runs with 320 then 600 grit. Find a silver you like- make sure its the same type (lacquer or enamel) spray that down several wet coatsuntil its uniformly silver, dont worry about coating the black areas, if you get any runs leave it a few hours and get it with 600 grit. leave overnight and mask off teh black areas, preferably with painters tape but you shouldnt need it, then spray your black then leave afew hours and spray clear over it all, get any runs hit it with the old 600 and spray some more clear on.

what i would buy- 1xduplicolour silver, 1x duplicolour black, 1xduplicolour clear and 1x lacquer filler primer, sandpaper(1x220 grit, 1x320 grit and 1x600 grit,1xroll masking tape) about $45-$50. Im not sure the price from painters tho.

The bugatti veyron uses VW's W16 with 4 turbos aswell.

I remember reading (incorrectly) in a magazine that it used two ford v8's to make a W16, never realised for months that it wasnt.

even my 150 dollars new woolf muffler extractors look way better than that, guts- i was gonna buy mounts n shit from them but maybe not if this is the shit you get.

you cunts have a drink for me on the 10th its my 18th eh.

Damn work-keeping me from finishing my car anyways theres a big pile o primerd stuff in the garage and heres the car how i drove it to my brothers to get it welded, was aws - turn so many heads etc more than any skyline.

rawking/aws. Will prob take about 5 more days of work till complete but then will be sweet-no more rusty peeling doorjambs for me.

For painting my tina i was tempted by the octane and the blood orange as i was going for an orange colour but decided that a cleaner version of the mk2 escort colour chrome yellow was the ticket, an orange tinted yellow. I have a crappy pic of the colour in project thread.

It looks too nice to blow the money on a different colour.

looking for info on the rover 3.5l v8, have tried basic googling-not much interesting looking for conversions (mk5 cortina) and how to get the power out of it.

criminal stz, spam.

na rims most important thing/joke.

on the floor system, sky ad ftw, wheres the remote, on the floor.

Why not go long block crate? or chasing much more power in the future?, 4000 US would have got you a 350hp long block.

Spose you can buy parts at time rather than have to blow 7k in one go.

i keep saying the same shit fuckit.

anyways /\ NeEdZ 2 b bIggA sO i cAn C wHN iM rEdLiNiNg eHH. Also you need multicolour neon shiftlight cos you cant read your big asss dial and have no skills to actually hear your engine cos you tin can bigbore fartcannon with a hole in it makes it sound like arse. Plus people wouldnt know i had a performance car and that im serious about racing if they couldnt see my gauges and stickers.

Its mostly the unpracticality and extremeness of the modifications, i like newstock cars honda, toyota etc. Most unpractical mods i hate, it just so happens these people take it to the extreme. I can see the funny side of boso and while its not to my tastes i dont hate it because i know its not done to make the car look like a (poor impersonation of a) racecar or to try and impress people at how gangsta you are.. I hate oldskool cars with newschool spoilers and obviously stupid rollerskate chromes just as bad as any ricer.

I am partly jealous of how a sub 2 litre engines can make such good horsepower ( ca 18 det, 4agze, sr20det etc). And my 2 litre pinto even with mods will gets its ass kicked by 1600's.

Also i think it depends on who you are with, i used to like new school jappas with big rims etc, now i like muscle cars and tastefully modified classics after spending much time with my brother and this site.

If its stone gaurd then its a different story, have used the stuff on my sills also, was wondering why you would want to put underseal anywhere apart from undercar, its smelly and messy as fuck.

Or use that /\ up to you really, havent heard of that product.

I have used a whole lot of stuff i got cheap from repco and supercheap to flood my sills with lol, paint wont stick to it, not that i wanted it to.

Properly applied paint should not crack, you can add flex additive which further increases its flex ability, i have a quarter panel that was mashed in by a useless parker and the only defect is the rub from the other car, the paint was fine.

If you still believe a type of coating is necesary then use clear silicone, very flexible and not too hideous, underseal is soft and messy and ugly and i really doubt it gets much better than the mitre 10 stuff, unless you are using such things as black epoxy. Underseal is basically a tar, its a bitumen based compound.