mk5corty

come cunt, im going for my degree, am into victoria house halls of residence.

am arriving in wellington 10:00 am sunday the 18th will be pimping/rawking times. mean boe.

thats an american turbo pinto.

http://www.cosworth.com/shop_item.php?productid=426

there is the cosworth 250hp version but bear in mind that price is for all new parts and would be designed to last for a standard engines life.

you could do nearly as well for much cheaper, like most modified engines.

2.3 duratec ftw if powerful N/A is what your after, 250hp can be had out of a streetable motor.

Do you mean price for you or for someone to do it.

heres approx rrp on the products.

primer: 100

colour:250-300

clear: 150

thinners or hardner will set you back another 50 or so.

then sandpaper, filler, cleaner, tape, etc 50+

my repray cost me $500 for 4l primer, 5l clear, 4l colour,1lt of black and other crap but i got stuff at trade.

your buffer is shit lol. 2800rpm does it nicely. You could prob hand buff a quarter panel mint in about two hours. Get a polishing sponge or cloth and rub the compound left to right not in circles until it starts go dry, doing it that way means any swirl makes will be straight and only viewable from certian angles , then use your buffer to take the dried compound off. That was what i found most efefctive before i actually bought a proper buffer.

hers it straight from a pro detailer

http://www.autobody101.com/forums/viewt ... isted+wool

for those too lazy

"BEST PADS

HEAVY COMOUNDING - If you really need to get aggressive, there's nothing like twisted wool"

bah, spend like 6days a week on painting forums.

twisted wool mop will cut much faster than foam, heard it from teh pros.

Anywhos i find little difference between the meguires pro and 3m perfect it ranges and the likes.

mezerna is apparently the best shizzle, dont get it over here i dont think.

hah guts to be buffing with that pos. I can buff faster by hand, buffed a whole car by hand in 3days, sore forearms hard.

Anyways hit it with the 1200 then with 2000, makes it easier to buff. Some medium cut meguires cleaner-pro range ( can get from supercheap but not repco) on a good foam or wool pad, wool cuts faster. For finishing, swirl mark remover with a fine foam pad will bring it up mint, then hand glaze it, dont really need the hand glaze if you did it right tho it hides minor swirl marks.

and to teh other guy, if there is micro cracks in the paint like spiderwebs, take the paint off, take it to original primer, i found this out the hard way, also get some masking tape and stick it on the car real good then pull it off, if any paint comes off then its fucken and you need to remove it, i also found this out the hard way.

some 60 grit on a sander is good for stripping, lower is better if your good but can rip the shit out of good filler.

aws, am coming to welly for uni so will hit you up, maybe not just bonnet but i can pay in beers, cash or time.

samanfa already suggested that one.

In the UK they cant sing baa baa black sheep at schools and kindergardens andn shit.

lol yea i wasnt planning on hacking the bonnet but the stripe i got planned would need to go under the clearcoat so i can block the edge out so you cant feel it. Will just buy more clearcoat tho. Was just wondering if anyone had some wicked mad ideas.

This is Darren Lewis's car off the kenent forums. Hope he doesnt mind me posting it lol. If your wondering , no he didnt keep the stock wheels lo,

na the letters wouldnt be enough but kyteler got the powerball, i remember a mk3 tina with a modded bonnet which i wont be able to replicate but the stripe will be perfect to copy.

wonder if i could get some of those ford letters and stick them on the bonnet.

was playing in photoshop and the scoops n shit just didnt suit, massive ram air filter sticking out the bonnet looked porn tho. get a tiny ass holley and bung that ontop of an otherwise standard pinto/ na.

the phase 4 bwahaha. An aussie dentist has one. Anyways then it would have to be the coupe xa-xc ftmfw.

yeah was thinking about that for ages but then corrupt showed me some pics of it on a mk5 and it looked ham,

my $40 camera is the sux, thats just after sanding before final coat of colour.

Was thinking the new ford gt logo sprayed in the centre maybes?

Cant be arse explaining so heres a website.

http://victorylibrary.com/tech/crod-c.htm

Being that my car is a solid colour the bonnet looks rather boring, the rest of the car is broken up by bumpers or the stripe im going to spray to replace the trim peice. However i dont know what to put on it, racing stripes looks tryhard, decals dont suit or look tacky- unles steal the firebird off the trans am..., maybe the raised bit in black and pinstriped, not sure tho, any ideas or criticisms?

None of the fucking image hosting sites will work for me right now, will upload pics later.

watching an MG is born, they were reassembling and the dudes like, "just do up the nuts fingertight , it makes it easier to take apart later" lol'ed if it was american it would need to have mean disclaimers n shit.

/\ yer, somebody set us up the, stz.

lol, could prob sell them on trademe.

bumped so people dont start a new one, (as if lol)

5 days aye /\, fuck that was wrong, will be more like 12.

One compressor stz cos i lost my connecting peice, was a mish. One coat downa nd the tiny fan doesnt help got a bit of striping but was fixed by the 3rd coat.

Fucken bright, wont lose this shit in a carpark.

Also my bit of carboard fell out and i managed to paint some of the radiotor fins, bah there mostly collapsing anyways, just another thing to add to the list.

lol, allgood.

ooh you oiwe me like 10 mins of my life lol, searching feedback on dialup is slow haha, anyways.

Bruce..03-4372416

Lacquer generally wont dry to a shine, unless its clearcoat. As a colour it is meant to be buffed to a shine, it is soluble when dry.

Acrylic enamels when they use hardeners are insoluble when dry and WILL dry to a shine but the gloss is only on the top layer and sanding will remove it and it cannot be buffed back.

Urethanes use a hardener and dry to a shine and can be buffed up. Unless is is the base coat of a base clear system where the base is weak and matte finish and the clearcoat with the hardener adds the gloss and strength.

Anything that uses a catalyst will be more durable.

There is also polyurethanes which are tougher versions of urethanes although sometimes the names are interchanged. Poly's are used on aeroplanes and the like, very hard to compound after it has properly dried as it is so tough.