mk5corty

Just about every pinto i've seen has a ruined rocker cover gasket, probably from constant tappet adjusting and failing to change the gasket.

Not really in a hurry but at my old flat i have two large home theatre sub cabinets, triangle ish shape, together form an almost square, approx 1.2x1x0.7 m. $150 brought to auckland or $75 each if you bring one. Can collect from your location in Auckland.

Have tried numerous freight companies but their either charge out the ass or dont do personal goods.

I do both, when i do use paint stripper. Strip, rinse, blow with compressor, solvent, then wait for a while to make sure any water is evaporated, then por away.

Got a warrant and rego and once again raging round the streets, fucken yay.

havent put the boot spoiler on yet, scored some ghia seats, put the rear ones in, am in the process of putting the front ones in now. They a way more comfy than the old ones, mean.

Slight metal high pitch grinding sound, sounds like diff, plus the diff oil had a lot of tiny metal particles in it when i drained it. Ah well.

Trying to fill scratches with paint doesnt work very well, especially if your using 1k, tends to follow the scratch and trasnfer it through, cant judge without seeing it but if you have the primer based then keep sanding, if not chuck some more primer on, or if your using 1k you can hit it with 2 coats of colour, then sand with 600grit, hit with a 3rd coat of colour or until hiding then clear.

If you just paint over them, more than likely they will be magnified.

if you dont need to wetsand, 2 will do, reasonable chance you will and 3-4 coats saves you from cutting through easily.

With ppg dulon 3 or 4 coats will see you right. Lay the first 2 or 3 down then leave overnight to dry, hit it with 600 grit then lay the last coat. If you notice it is quite orange peely on your clear then 3 coats, 600grit it, 4th coat then wetsand and compound as per usual, if your quite handy with the spraygun and dont need to compound, 2 coats can suffice.

whats good for cleaning vinyl before painting it, ive used meths and thats ok but deosnt get the hard stuff. I think its mostly oily hair that causes the paint not to stick

I usually go for a degreaser and water mix and a toothrbush or bigger brush if its bigger. Works mint for me, never had a problem with dye.

I think that might have been scots, i have the website on my other computer.

Just wondering if anyone knows where you can buy weather strips for a decent price or is $100 for 4 doors a decent price?

2gr-fe- out of teh aurion.

duratec 3.5- the one replacing the falcons I6. fuck finding one.

460bb stroked to 532ci.

camaro is teh sex.

Mean car boe, am sorely tempted to get one of these at the start of next year, especially cos if the engine shits out, the bay is plently long enough to incorporate an barra xr6t engine.

Bet it sounds aws, should go pretty good to with like 285 horse.

oh man, can now join teh exclusive club, the box cortina club.

Mad boes, more oldschoolers near me, im just below the uni on the terrace.

Just to answer a few questions, 7-9psi for an hvlp is for at the cap, usually its about 12 though, set your compressor high enough to get that at the cap, so you do end up using a much higher psi 20-30.

Gravity feed use less air than suction fed, the supercheap 2 gun pack costs about 80 bucks and has a primer and a topcoat gun and really isnt bad.

If you strip the doors and guards off then you can paint the car in peices and not run out of air on one of those 2.5hp compressors. They do burn out easily though if you dont follow the guidelines, like 2 minutes of engine work, then 10 minutes of cooldown. If your only doing primer then just lay it on wait for air, overlap and overspray wont be a concern.

Those spots could caused by a multitude of things.

interesting...

Maybe try avenger he's a painter in the Tron.

Primer contains a large quantity of talc, which is excellent at absorbing water, think talcum powder. Getting all the shit paint off will be a bitch, i would look for a uv resistant epoxy primer, then just scuf it when the time comes, many people use matt black epoxy but the sun will fade it, just scuff, recoat, spray some primer to hide the colour and then apply colour.

Whats the best way to go about painting a car with metalic paint. Is it best to just spray the base down and let it dry etc then do the clear, or do it straight after etc? any help appreciated. mk5corty, tell me how youd do it

Shit never even saw this ohwell, i would spray the metallic onto primer sanded with 600 grit minimum, metallic paints show sanding scratches well. Let the base dry partially between metallic and clear say an hour or two, although this really depends on if your using 1k or 2k. You can sand earlier coats of metallic if it has orange peel although it's not recommended, just make sure the clear goes on unsanded colour.

Did you get a new exhaust? exhaust drone? Is the carpet and sound deadning still in?

fuel lines or pump not getting the gas through?

oh mean boe, wouldnt like to do the repair work on the matchstick mini though.

Well i took my hp figures from wiki,

The 2-valve DOHC 18R-G was produced from 1972 through 1974. Output was 110–145 hp (82–108 kW) at 6400 rpm and 131 ft·lbf (177 N·m) at 5200 rpm. It was also available in Japan-spec (The 1975 18R-GU) with 130 hp (97 kW) at 6000 rpm.

The GR and GEU had more hp.

I havent seen a decent switched manufacturer conversion cost under 2 grand yet ( including engine). Doesnt mean there isnt any just all the extra bits add up quick, its easy to underestimate conversion costs.