Nominal

As of 1 December you don't need a high level stop light on pre-1990 vehicles

http://www.ecos.co.nz/files/Omnibus_Amendment_2016.pdf

Means I don't need to keep the (detached) high level light under the seat of the Mercury I suppose.

There was one of these ecombo campers (NZ Made) next to as at a camp last year.

Seemed pretty sweet as long as you don't mind doing everything except sleeping outside (without the tent extension anyway).

Pricey but.

/buy a tent/

Anyone use a ZP (Zinc Phosphate) primer for weldthrough duties?

I guess I need to pick up some, probably a spray bomb as welding though 1K primer/ top coat is a bit nasty.

Angle grinders are the tool of the devil!

Do you have hydraulic lifters? They can make setting valve clearance weird.

1KZ is likely to have a cracked head.

How much for head replacement?

Front panel clamped in and plug welded. Makes a bit of a mess of the new paint.

Cleaned it up and re-primed. I'm fairly happy, it isn't perfect but is serviceable, and won't be rusting again for another 50 years or more I think.

Also finished the front guard patch finally, and primed it. Needs a skim of filler over the welds (there isn't really access to the back to hammer them level)

Some really nice work going on there!

Cletus knows, of course.

If they are there, they have to work for a WOF though.

(in theory)

^ Ask an engineer?

 

After swapping the drums side to side the Morris seems pretty balanced as long as the road isn't too cambered. Might still try it on the brake rollers if I get up early on Saturday.

Tried out Roger's magic machine (which is a pretty cool gadget, no rollers needed these days) which says the front is perfectly balanced but the RR is barely working, so will take a look at that next.

Will your Beat offend Al?

First rule of old car ownership 

- Never keep receipts

Second rule of old car ownership^*

- Never add up receipts

* Especially if married.

^ Ask an engineer?

After swapping the drums side to side the Morris seems pretty balanced as long as the road isn't too cambered. Might still try it on the brake rollers if I get up early on Saturday.

Don't know what you're on about.  I have 4.

Hoarder!

We have a drive on brake tester (safety stop) at work. if you want to try it out I'll be there Saturday morning.

Might do. What time do you open?

is it uneven on brake rollers?

 

ie is it the brake that is pulling, or a problem with the steering/suspension possibly?

Road tests only, my WOF place is oldschool.

Try getting a prado for 7k that's done less than 300000kms.

Just run in, surely?

Same poxy rust traps too, apparently

Swap one shoe side to side. E.g swap the top shoes over.

Edit: is that brake fluid all over the bottom shoe?

Next time I have them apart I'll do that.

Wet spot is just some brake cleaner that hadn't dried. That dirty pic is from my other Morris.

Are the cylinders all the same size?

AFAIK. I sent them as a set to be rebuild and they didn't mention anything different.

I'm going to drive it in to Wellington tomorrow so motorway traffic will be interesting.

What mof said.

When I get issues with imbalanced drums, mainly on hiace vans, is swap the drums and leading shoes, de-dust and adjust. Boom. Can get that shit down to zero percentage imbalance. However. You're talking about British shit with shit jammed on from a different piece of British shit. So its most likely always going to be shit, because British.

Well shit. I wonder if Hiace drums would fit?

It's a two-leading shoe design, none of that fancy self-energizing bendix stuff.

Drum brakes, these are Riley 1500 ones which bolt up to a Morris Minor since they share the same suspension design.

All 4 cylinders were re-done with stainless steel and new rubbers by a place in ChCh.

Shoes re-done by ABC iirc (these pics are from 5 years ago) to match the drum arc. New hoses. Drums look good.

I'm reasonably sure they are assembled correctly. Cross checked just now against the oxford which uses a similar Girling design.

The problem is that they pull to left - have done since fitted really.

Things done

- chamfered the leading edges of the shoes on the left to reduce initial grab.

- Bled carefully (many times). The bleeder is on the lower cylinder so I've unbolted the backing plate and rotated it up for bleeding, particularly on the RHS.

- Deglazed the shoes and drums with emory tape.

- Swapped drums (probably, its hard to recall. I'll swap them tonight anyway.)

- swapped springs from one side to the other.

Nothing helped much.

There are 'pins' adjustable behind the shoes to square them up with the drums, it's hard to be sure, but I've alighed the shoes to the backing plate with a set square so I think its OK.

Any ideas before I either give up and take it to ABC to look at ($$) or but the stock drums back on ($$ needed to new cylinders and shoes for these anyway).

It's been stripped to bare metal and covered with Blackguard (I think) so it looks dark brown/black.

Looks OK as a combination, so dark brown might work.

Some top coat sprayed. Going to leave this without clear (LC 400 paint) as its mostly hidden.

Colour isn't intended to match, just be somewhat similar. Might do the roof black.

Should get it welded back together tomorrow night, then will have to re-do some of the paint.

Had another look at the tailgate, and read the VIRM. I think I'm going to have to fix this for a WOF, because the hinges are mounted in the rusty area.

Had a look in my books, and it doesn't seem to have a separate seal (HG book anyway), just a bearing and gasket. So I guess the bearing is a sealed one?

Mine is wired direct to the ignition. That worries me a bit, so I bought an oil pressure safety switch like this

https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/crt-a68301/overview/

I couldn't make the plumbing work when I tried to fit it (not enough NPT adaptors) so it's not on the car right now.

I also got a non-return regulator but haven't fitted that either.

TL:DR Bigger pump wired direct to ignition works for me for now.

Lol. For a car community we sure are cheap cunts. Besides Pete.

If you pay less per car, then your can have more cars.

Works for me. I like my A32 Maxima for daily duties. Doesn't break down often. 3.0 for go. Son is driving it to Palmy and back next 3 days so I hope it survives in one piece.

Followed a WRX into town today, nice aroma of oil smoke.