lofreq

progress on the 2j swap - its down to the small nitty gritty stuff that takes the longest to do. ...but to cut a long story short: i reckon that sounds pretty sick! and how quiet is that idle with no exhaust?? since last post, a couple of things have happened. radiator+elec fans+shroud fitted and plumbed; camry throttle cable fitted; engine mount bolts finally done up after adding oil filter sandwich plate and oil pressure sender for new gauges (oil filter was in the way of the mount bolt); boost sender mounted; new air filter pipe and IC piping beaded by mike and installed; evan's exhaust downpipe fitted, oxy sensor extended; broken IACV VSV valve sourced and replaced, brake booster vacuum hose connected; heater lines connected; gearbox topped up with Redline Shockproof; powersteering connected and filled; clutch bled; plugs sanded, coils cleaned up... lovin the IC work - simple and sweet still a couple of things to do - there is a pesky water leak from the firewall heater hose (of course in the most inaccessible place) and my boost taps need to be tee'd and plumbed in, and the electric fans need to be connected to the thermo switch and relayed up - otherwise all underbonnet work is more or less completed heres some earlier pics before the radiator/intake work etc last on the list - exhaust to be made up, rear subframe swapped in, front brakes swapped over, reassemble interior with new gauges (have decided to run an 80mm tacho instead of f34king around with pulling the dash apart to rewire the tach - what is this "interface" thats easy to make? id love for the factory tach to work with the new distributorless setup??) and then she should be ready for certification and WOF. gettin' there! (bit o' fun with the vinylcutter)

just a quick update on the ”jzx102″ swap. the last two weeks have been a true test of patience and acceptance of things one cannot control – as well as realising the full impact of trying to be a “car nut” while working on a car that isnt where you live. getting a car working entails more than just knowing what plugs in where – first you have to actually be there where the plugs are. anyway heres whats been happening: a ton of wiring has been traced and sorted by with the fuel pump prime trigger hard wired to the ignition, 2 batteries daisychained by jumper leads, and the engine earthed to the body by more jumper leads popping and crackling all over the show, the motor was cranked… and after a cough of black smoke she fired up beautifully and settled to a purr! sounds fuckin awesome… as most motors do with open headers mike noticed a fair bit of oil spit out the turbo outlets upon revving the motor a bit, enough to form a small puddle under the car. concerned, we shut it off thinking it might be blown turbo seals or something worse??? but after the initial panic we decided to fire it again and rev it hard to blow the oil out. sure enough, it all blew out and stopped spitting oil. relief! so with the motor ready to go, all that was left was to tie everything up – all fluids, cables, wires, mounts and bolts….. all was going well until at the end of the day i thought to straighten up the steering wheel. the wheel deflected about 10degrees, and stopped with a dead thunk – making the motor shake in the process. now why would turning the steering wheel move the engine?? when your cast factory dump pipe is jammed up against the steering knuckle, of course. FCK. day ended there on a downer. however a followup crack at the problem saw that the cast Y pipe was a seperate piece to the factory manifold! thought it was all one piece. lifting the motor up a bit allowed it to be unbolted and removed. Evan came to the rescue again here and got a custom Y pipe made up of parts of his old 1UZ extractors, that curved the 2nd turbo outlet away and around the steering arm. this also resulted in a 2.25″inch into 3inch collector, instead of a 2inch into 2.5inch factory restriction. win, and win. and all without having to pull the motor right out again – win3. how sweet is this thing: all wiring has been nailed and the dash operates like factory – all except the tacho. as usual with these toyotas, the tacho always seems to be the troublesom one. will have to leave this for now unless someone has some tips to share on how to get the tach working (output from ignitor directly into the tach perhaps?????) next up, intercooler. this was reasonably fun finally settled on running aircon in the factory location, an MA70 supra twin core radiator, electric fans, and my 70mm scarles low height intercooler – fits perfectly under the front bumper support with nothing needing to be cut…much. finished off with figuring out the IC piping, i really wanted to run some kind of Vmount but given the space constraints and issues with aircon heat exchanger, i was forced to go down the conventional route. this meant more runs to TubeBenders for more ali piping and bends but in the end its been sussed, simple 2.5″ all round into 3″ at the throttle body. got this tied up just as Waz and Dave returned from meremere manji day – dramas abound. wondering why the above pic is so hazy – its cus someone with a jzx81 ripped a 3rd gear burnout on the carport 23 seconds earlier, slicing thru the garden hose in the process, and lending the garage with that underground nightclub look. - tomorrow im taking a half day off and hope to spend the whole afternoon on the car and get things tidyed up. hoping to finish the wiring and interior, mount the dump pipe, and sort out power steering lines, radiator lines and whatnot. lots more little things before she rolls on her own power. but so close! can not wait to drive this thing…

so we've been busy. cambelt done clutch slave drilled tapped and fitted ring gear cut off auto fly, baked and fitted to new flywheel. clutch assembled centered and fitted. engine mounts swapped from aristo mounts to jzx90. intake piping reassembled. cut vac lines reattached. water hoses rerouted. power steering high pressure line swapped for jzx90 item. internal wiring loom cut spliced and labelled. engine loom spliced and labelled. new drivebelt, flywheel spigot bearing, waterpump, thermostat, idler, starter motor wiring, alternator wiring. oh and turbo #1 prespool boost mod ready to go. 2jz test fitted - perfect fit. gearbox mounts bolt up factory, shifter in factory position, clutch steel line bent out of way but otherwise perfect fit. without all the actual hard work, once in it looks easy, and stock. next up - wiring, fluids, first crank!

+38 front and rear. i thought crowns were 4x114 not 5x114? $500 for the wheels anyway also got those Work Rezax for sale too, if mike doesnt take em for his qualis wagon first... $700 with tires for those

so heres some more. you know how sometimes you see average-as looking dudes with average-as hair and average-as face and average-as tshirts and average-as pants… but then they walk past with some dope as baller as fuck kicks? yea so i thought why cant i be like that guy. so i got some new shoes. dot .com racing 17×9 +15 all round ok so i hated the way the Rezax’s looked on the 100. i took a risk, it didnt pay off. without a kit, the 18s looked too big on the car. it looked like when you have 17s on a starlet – the wheel arches are full, the car is “lowered”, but the whole thing looks like its standing up off the ground. like a rollerskate. add to that the pretty poor offset and it became clear to me that sticking with them would just eat away at me and leave me quite dissatisfied. so after some long hard thinking i decided to go back to a 17″ size, and shelled out on the credit card on the .com’s i am stoked! anyway, so thats not the only thing that was done – with evans help carting me all over auckland i sorted out picking up a bunch of parts, and got more stuff done tonite thanks to michael from BNT – whole box of goodies from BNT including shockproof redline gearbox oil, fuchs LSD oil, full set of new brake pads for the new tourer V brakes; and thanks to Mark and Nick- new waterpump, cambelt, idler, seals, rah rah rah thanks to mike: motor has been stripped a bit further, waterpump etc out… needs a ton of degreaser and a good cleanup, this bitch is dirty thanks to evan: gearbox now sports new clutch, arm, release bearing, clutch/fly/ringgear is next to go on and the whole new jzx90 subframe, lsd, bigger swaybar, bigger axles etc, is more or less ready to bolt in but yadda yadda yadda. who really cares when u got cool new shoes front offset is now aggressive as i used some 9″ bolt on spacers for the rear for a bit of that ‘offset king’ stance so yes. more progress this weekend. meanwhile… anyone interested in some 17×8, 17×9 +38 5×114 rims? ;D for you special price.

so at last update seemingly years ago, i bought (in a spur of the moment risk-take) some cheap Work Rezax rims at 18×8.5/9.5, but at a fail offset of +38/+44. i thought, for $270, why not give it a try?? chrome was all fucked and peeling off, so i thought, this is a chance to do something completely different – and i painted them flat black also. surely with some spacers i could make it work. lol. Work. pun. sigh. anyway while the painting went well, i dont think it WORKed. spent more money i didnt have on some 215/35 F 225/40 R rubber, turns out the 35 profile is way more visually rubber-band than 40 profile. so it looks like a hotrod now (jacked rear small wheel front) but again thats what i get for mismatched profiles and +44 rubbish i guess. hey its a WORK in progress. ok thats the end of that gag. which brings me to updates. basically i had no money for ages cus i was busy buying crap in preparation for the swap. but just a week ago i decided it was time to get cracking. that, and the fact that my WOF ran out, and i couldnt get another with the adjustables. tomayto, tomarto. so i was thinking: if a 1jz gte chaser is a jzx100, and a 2jzge chaser is a jzx101, then i reckon a 2jzgte chaser should be a jzx102. so how do you make a jzx102? 1) shove an x100 deep into the abyss of the slipway chasm 2) drag a 2jzgte out of the bushes using a van, tractor-pull styles 3) chuck it into the back of said van 4) using a hoist, without wrecking the back of the van’s roof liner with the hoist arm. WITHOUT, i said…… ahh. too late. 5) dump the 2jz carcass into the garage 6) size it up and plan the attack 7) rip out the offending 1G. god damn 1Gs. they are like a plague. consider filling the gap with a rotary. or an SR40detttt 9) psyche yourself up for the hard and dull part of preparing the new motor before dropping it in. and realising you have a shitload to do – like missing intake pipes, broken sensors, unknown bodyloom pinouts, powersteering pumps on wrong side, new aircon lines needed, hydraulic fan needing deleting, intercooler too wide to fit where originally planned, no radiator, no fuel pump, no new cambelt kit, $$$$$$ etc. 10) clean up and go home. im currently buying more parts to continue this build. if anyone has tips on gx100 body loom wiring, please let me know. also if you have a 2jzgte twin turbo intake pipe. otherwise, theres no returning now! JZX102, or bust! -nige

um what part of "5k in debt" dont you understand. wheels were an epic $270 - obviously temporary to replace the no name 17s on there now i dont have 2.5k to spend on bling name brand jdm baller shit at the moment sorry - if i did id have just bought a 18k factory manual version from the start wouldnt i.

but no one cares, all you want is pics and progress. hey thats all i want. 2jz delivered and ready to rock ECU and missing 40p body loom finally obtained basic manual boost controller for 1st turbo spool boost increase before switchover (2nd turbo controller will probably be an electronic controller) Exedy HDB clutch as recommended by niteparts Work Rezax 18x8.5, 18x9.5 slow and steady wins the race etc

tragically, after xmas/newyrs/BDO/valentines/sara's bday/my bday rah rah, i am completely out of money - having run up about 5k debt most of it in car parts for this build. so no progress, backward progress in fact since one of my rear tyres went flat at the 4&rotor nats and then exploded on the motorway on the way back just before mercer, wrecking my rim and breaking a wheelstud off the rear left hub. whatever sob sob im working hard to regain some cash so i can get the last of what i need - tyres, fuel pump, radiator, and pay for the tourer V 2way LSD, subframe and brakes from the slipway garage

and here we are: seemingly quite well built/welded. will do nicely. picking up motor in 2 days time ;p

did quite a bit of research on coolers- super tall ones arent efficient for flow as end tanks only cram air into the top fins and then cause turbulence rushing into the lower fins (usually the core is huge and the end tanks are tiny) so flow is interrupted quite a bit. also, thin is bad agreed, but its 90mm thick, normally 76mm or less, so actually despite the size i think the cooling will be very effective. lastly im gonna angle the radiator/aircon exchanger back and center high mount the cooler between the headlights, so i dont need 200ft of cooler pipes, will massively help lag and velocity. might be alot of theory mumbo jumbo but i enjoy a bit of physics and the concepts are mostly sound - so we'll see how we go (for proof of concept of long/thin coolers, think of the roof mounted RS200 ones...)

once we can pick up the motor its all go bro all i need now is radiator and thats right at the end that i need that anyway eh! next week? ;d

heres the page on the boost tech http://www.max-boost.co.uk/max-boost/su ... _beast.htm some awesome supra tech on this site also - fella is clued up i like it

about the shit u mentioned earlier - im only hoping that the 2jzgte ecu is able to talk to my dash, if they did something gay and made the gx100 dash work different to the jzx dash then fuck them and im buying a silvia so lets hope that isnt the case. also im hoping ABS has its own computer and i can leave that shit alone - wouldnt mind getting rid of ABS anyway because pedal feel is dead and im one of those drivers that uses in-brain ABS so i conflict when driving against assisted brakes also brendan/niteb is the guy supplying my flywheel and bellhousing and yeah hes legend - already helping me out heaps with clutch choice and hes recommended a proven Exedy number w/ 6puck disc that ima use (also proven on the Slipway lads JZ's) so im sending my Xtreme clutch back for a swap its only $100 more expensive forget "over-done" ness, CR-Kais are proven to look tough as tits on jzx100s so go to it. make sure you just dont put the shallow face on the front and concave face on back - concave all round please. probably means 17x9.5 or 18x9.5 all round but fuck it, ive also read that larger tread up front increases oversteer bite anyway Work site only lists 18" VS-XX's but i want 17's like pictured previously so maybe im stuck with waiting for a 2nd hand pair to come up. but yeah 17x8.5/9.5 with +20 to +25 is now my shopping specs cant wait to start work on the swap/also scared as fuck for problems encoutered that only solvable by bank balance..... already asking myself, wtf am i doing!!!

yeah after i had a go navigating the blog i made for myself, as well as trying to search duffman's blog for more info (like, when he painted his works) etc, i gave up, deciding that blog shit is too hard for me to delve into right now so yeah i will roll my build onto the slipway blog instead and post updates there. as it is the car is too POS to even mention so once i get semi somewhere with the swap then ill put somethin up there - until then its too tryhard i think - by my own standards yes when i said cut the lip off i wasnt going to leave a gay sharp edge, id leave a couple of mm of the stock roll there, if done correctly it should not appear visually different from normal viewing angle at all, except when wheel goes up and in it doesnt hit the gay 15mm of extra metal thats in there for no reason other than to catch mud and rust. but yes good call sir. oh yeah fuck in other news today, my motor is HERE at the depot ready for collection. it would have been dropped off to slipway HQ yesterday but Mike got a call saying the motor had somewhat fallen thru 2 slats of the pallet and is kinda stuck and will need a forklift to maneuver. since there is only a hoist, this wouldnt work. also the truck is too big to get rounhd the back of the house... so ima see if slipway boys can help come with me to pick up the motor from the depot which is less than 15min from the house. no pics cus i havent seen it myself but maybe soon. i DO have pics of my clutch which arrived today, just an Xtreme number - but after opening it i realised that its more or less a HD OEM replacement and i think my ego needs something a bit more flash it is a HD pressure plate with full face organic sprung clutch - im going to send back and replace with the XHD pressure plate and a slightly uprated clutch disc for more bite and more importantly torque-holding power

so the "look" im going for is similar recipe to the duffm4n car. no kit - OEM style lip , OEM skirting, black urathane look, just low as fuck (i want to drop the car a further 1/2" to 3/4"). stock fenders (no pull no flare) (but i'll cut off the inner lip compeltely rather than fold it/roll it) with as close to perfect fitment as i can. so i will go like 3mm undersized in offset, then test for rub/scrape, and adjust final fitment with 3mm or 5mm spacers if its not right the first time. best to get it right tho so every millimeter of offset gives me more dish, instead of wasting it on spacers. and just run tough as fuck wheels and stance. maybe a carbon rear bootlid lip, maybe carbon roof duckbill, carbon front lip etc, to offset against the factory pearl for now. think about choc brown and AIMGAIN kit later. but get the stance right now. main thing is building my money back up because after this motor swap, bell housing, flywheel, rear diff, rah rah rah misc crap straight after new yrs and xmas means i am well out of pocket....... so really need to pace myself......

michael. you are an industrisal machine. THankyou for finding all thart sweet info. your cheque is in the mail. whats ur address. jarred. before i start why is your usernasme "FLalwes" on jzx100? whats with the spelling? is it my eyes?? the VS-mx are sweet but for 9's and 10s where is all the dish. ? is it that model of VS that is some kind of antidish? thx for the tip on the 10's. i dont want to go 10 cus the tyre size required will cause overall rolling diameter to be larger than stock, throws off speedo the wrong way and more importantly RAISES the car so yeah 9" or 9.5" will be max. also, i got the wheels aligned and i have 2.5degrees camber on front, 4.2 degrees on rear, and im not keen to lose a degree of my ridiculousness... so the camber stays, meaning im rolling on alot of inner sidewall, meaning alot of my road bounce goes into what sidewall i have left, meaning running 18" with appropriate sized rubber will end up requiring 35 profile tyres which are 1) too expenseive 2) will have shit all sidewall to roll on/absorb impact/means im close to literally rolling on the inside lip of the mag itself breath. so. it means im keen to stick with my 45 profile currently on the 17s and just stretch em out more. 215/45R17 on the 8" is bullshit stretch (ie almost nil) and on the 9" it just looks about good. so i reckon i wana go 9" front 9.5" rear. and stick to 17s. which brings us to offset. your rears are 18x10 +25 right??? 18/17/doesnt matter cus it doesnt affect width. so if a 10" wide rim at +25 wont fit without massaging gaurds then a 10" +35 will be "perfect". but i dont want 10" i want 9.5, so thats 12.5mm less in width (half inch) that i need to add to offset, = 35-12.5 = about +22 so technically id want some 17x8.5 or 17x9+22 running 205/45/17 FRONT, and 17x9.5+22 running 215/45/17 REAR, on mesh wheels with dish. and thats me.

i have been searching every kind of wheel possible for something to catch me as the wheel for this project as we all know wheels can make or break a car i believe ive found the look/offset/fitment etc that i want for this car - they were always going to be full flat black - and here is an example of what i want, almost exactly: Work VS-XX. unknown size/offset/etc, but i am trying to find out. car is featured here on the weaksauce parts site: http://www.weaksauceparts.com/weaksauce ... ffm4n.html car owned by someone called DUFFM4N, who is a honda guy but also has/had this ride. details seem scarce on the "build" of the s14 (but its just a basic S14, with those wheels) so maybe no build thread?? the rest of the guy's posts on his own car used photobucket which is now expired so none of his pics work. if anyone can find the spec of the wheels pictured above i will give you $100. fuckin serious.

All i did was unplug the TRC, cut it all off and welded up the holes. You will have to ask mike and evan if they had to do anything with the wiring but i dont think they did ok cool. was wondering about the electrics but i guess if you just leave the switch open, it never kicks in..... since you physically removed it i guess theres no way it can cause any trouble... Ive heard mixed results on this so i opted not 2. Your more then welcome to try it Nigel agreed with ryan - all my research points to the fact that running in parallel (aka "TTC" if we continue with the USDM talk) will give you maybe better top end but shithole driveability before 4000rpm - sounds like gay to me - the sequential system (after studying it for ages) is actually one clever piece of engineering. found an awesome site that explains the best(and worst) ways to boost control the sequential setup, i'll paste it in here if youre interested ryan when i get the link at home - basically involves 2 seperate boost controllers one for the first turbo boost level before it prespools the 2nd, and one for the main wastegate when both turbs are running usually you just mod the main wastegate (lets say, to the "industry recommended" 18psi), but what happens when you up the boost this way is the first turbo only spools halfway (like to factory setting of 9psi or something) then tries to prespool the 2nd too early, thus u get this flatspot as the 2nd comes online while exhaust is robbed from turbo 1 and fed to turbo 2, then suddenly you get a rush of power as the 2nd one comes online, as both turbos then play catchup from 9psi to your new increased 18psi boost setting - "feels" like a rush as power surges in (wastegate shut until 18psi) but puts tons of stress on the turbos (mainly the 2nd turbo since turbo 1 is already spinning close to full speed) as they are trying to come up to boost so suddenly - and so leads to premature failure - moreso with these JDM motors that run the weaker CT12's apparently the common result of boost increases is a blown 2nd turbo due to this issue solution is, yes, set main wastegate to 18psi, but to also boost control (bleed, or otherwise) the prespool valve as well, so the prespool of the 2nd happens at a much higher boost (so instead of trying to bring turbo 2 online at 9psi, it holds to like 15psi and only THEN starts prespooling 2. this means more gases to keep 1 spinning and prespool 2, less flatspot (since youre now running 15psi on one turbo, before the second even comes online), and then when both are ready to go they dont need to surge to 18psi since boost is already at around 15. less stress = longer life etc etc. stronger midrange since youre effectively feeding one CT12 with all 6 cylinders until 15psi then bleeding off all the extra exhaust to prespool the other CT12 which will now prespool that much quicker, and then both come online to 18psi = everyones happy anyway im going to be using the dual boost control method. rather than manually adjusted controllers/bleed valves, the best system would be some kinda electronic boost controller that can control 2 wastegates simultaneously. is there such a thing? like the blitz dual SBC?? not sure if this is actually what the dualSBC does....

cool ill do that for sure- did u do any "BPU" boost mods (talking in US Supra talk now pardon me lol) and, howd u bypass TRC?

hey ryan -seeing as im doin the same motor swap as u have, with the same nonvvti motor etc - do you have any hints and tips on things to do to the motor before it gets fitted to the car? ur experiences here would be greatly helpful ps: red spokes are mega

i made a blog site. but i dont know how to upload a header photo, anyone know? never really blogged before but maybe could get into the habit. im more used to posting on a forum like this. i also photoshopped all my past cars into one picture from random other side-on photos i found. almost works. put it in sig for pride's sake so give me mad props. thx

yeh not keen on cutting bumper and metal supports etc - the long and thin style to fit under the bumper braces is probably good but u end up with long runs of piping and the whole thing sits way low - im thinking of mounting the IC inboard and up behind the front grille/between the headlights - will mean a narrow but tall IC - and will allow super short pipe lengths. since im also getting a new radiator im considering Vmounting both and making some ducting to force air up into both radiator and IC (will then need a subtly vented hood to allow low pressure hot air out) im gonna be measuring up what space is available today, and then go shopping for a cooler.....

nope youd werent too pissed - i went down to mates bach in pauanui on the 28th then left there and went thru to the mount before heading down to rotorua/taupo/napier/havelock north - so yeah youd have seen me. and then on the 2nd i came back to the mount/papamoa to chill out for few days - i should make the car a bit more definitive looking i guess aye shall i wrap the arse end of this one in advan stripes as well lol you my good man were definitely grogballed - i never went thru whakatane (although i wanted to) so im guessing you spotted another white chaser with black mags - which annoys me a bit - im not used to not having a recognisable machine yeah where like south aucks or something? was probably headed to/returning from the nightspeed drags or visiting olds/etc - i dont think one can 'gunn' a 1g-fe - nothing happens. the only way id have been able to pass/outrun a swift would be from inertia, momentum and luck fuck the 1g makes me sooo mad every time i try to drive it - get so angry. rev the shit out of it and it wont even rev without sounding laboured - its like a fat man wheeezzing on asthma, fucking makes a physical pain in my chest makes me want to stab something shit peter i need to calm down. anyway now ive flippin bought a 2j so maybe even with stock twin turbos it might go a bit better heres hoping this is a job for - the mighty garage slipway boys! i just now need: big radiator, elec fans, intercooler to hi-mount behind grille, and uprated fuel pump.. and i then i think its showtime keep it locked